OK, I am thinking of moving to AMSOil 0W, because my car (lucky car ) gets to travel a WHOPPING 1.6 miles one way to work. I have my costs for a case and now its time to check out the competition. I want to pick whats best. Granted, I do not do the "long" intervals you guys do...I do it around 3K :embarrased: which is kinda frowned on here....but it takes me now about 6 months to go 3K......Obviously with that kind of driving....Ill be taxing the crud outta the oil.

I spent a LONG time reading the oil analysis spreadsheet. Man, tremendous amount of information. One of the things I picked up on, feel free to correct, is that not many have submitted 0W analysis.

Questions:
1) Are not many people using 0W? If so, why 0W versus the 5W?

2) I noticed that in those analysis, that the lead and silicon tended to be high (over Universal Averages and therefore bolded). I am looking at Bills 7th listing (but his previous analysis was also high for lead on 5W), maxxed (he used Mobil1 0w and it was 42 ) talking horse had high lead (16) and then for 2K motors (mine) jomabaru. Is this a factor of not changing the filter in time, or more of a factor of something wearing out? Where is the lead coming from?

3) Since Lead and silicon are high, is the oil not doing its job? Or having issues with the environment?

4) I also notice that the Mobil1 110 is not on the filter analysis...nobody donated one? Or is it considered "cross ref'd" to another filter on there that IS approved?

 

The Amsoil 0w should be the best oil for your conditions. It has a higher base number than the 5w. I use the 0w in my wifes Durango. She drives roughly 9k or so a year, all short stop and go driving. I change the filter every 3 to 6 months with Mobil 1 filters and have had excellent results. I'm sure the oil could go longer.

 

I have used AMSOIL 0w-30 in my '98 Max for the past several years with outstanding results. I also have it in several of my customers' cars and they are very pleased with it. I use and recommend it because it offers outstanding wear protection (even better than competing oils of higher viscosity) and it is the most fuel efficient oil AMSOIL offers. It is formulated with the most premium basestocks and additives and the difference is noticeable in engine quietness and smoothness. Given the few miles you drive the car, you will not be able to justify the higher cost over ASL (5w-30); but if you want the best for your car, AMSOIL 0w-30 will not disappoint you.

 

So lead has a higher base number then?

 

1) I feel that many people don't use 0W in their Max's prob because the owner's manual does not mention it. I think the idea behind a 0W is that it's more free-flowing at startup, lubricates faster at start up, thus less wear. The potential disadvantage is generally, the wider the viscosity spread, the greater the chance is for shearing and oil breakdown. The better synth oils appear to disprove this through more stable and sheer-proof basestocks.

2) The high lead numbers in Nissan 3.5 V-6's (VQ35DE) appear to come from bearing wear, and are quite common in this engine. I've found the Used Oil Analysis (UOA) at another website to have very helpful information interpreting UOA's. Here are some links on UOA's on VQ35DE's from that site (from Pathfinders, G35's and Maximas). One of these has information on a VQ35 with NO lead wear in their UOA.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/...c;f=3;t=001297

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/...c;f=3;t=000154

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/...c;f=3;t=001063

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/...c;f=3;t=001181

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/...c;f=3;t=001413

3) Slightly to moderately elevated silicon (dirt) is often caused by K&N air filters if used. In drop in applications, they don't really fit right in Maxima's airbox, needing foam sticky things to make them fit kinda good. A tight seal is vital. As a cone, they don't the dirt out as well as paper. Some people will argue this. I and others would argue back. A big jump in silicon is prob something else.

4) I don't know about that. Several people strongly advocate the use of the Mobil 1 M-105 and its equivalents, which is much larger than the 110, yet fits some of the Maximas. Check Bill's sticky.

From reading many many UOA's, I have learned that your car is at risk of experiencing fuel in the oil from repeated short trips. Not giving your oil a chance to get really warmed up and "burning off" the fuel present there. This can cause increased wear over time. There are solutions, however; search the site above for more information.

Hope this helps!

 

No, the Series 2000 0W-30 has a higher TBN than the 5W-30 does. This makes it more resistant to the harmful effects of short trips.

Looking at UOA's between different cars isn't really a good indication of how a particular oil performs. UOA's are good for trend information in a your engine, but driving styles and conditions vary so much it's impossible to get an accurate picture.

A perfect example is the 42ppm lead count you noticed. If you read the comments section, you'll find the typical drive was about 3 miles and hard acceleration was involved. There's no way that oil was ever at proper operating temp. and hard acceleration was frequently involved. The engine was used hard when ideally it should have been babied.

A higher lead count is usually due to high power settings before the motor is warmed up, lugging the engine or a fuel additive. It's also a pretty good indicator you may have a coolant leak.

Look at it from a numbers standpoint, if you pull the technical information off Mobil's and Amsoil's websites, you'll find that Amsoil 0W-30 is 12% thicker at operating temp. than Mobil 1 5W-30 is. You'll also find a higher viscosity index and a higher HT/HS number. There's no question that Amsoil's 0W-30 is safe to use in your engine for both short and long trips. The only question is the extra capability of that oil worth it to you to justify it's cost over the short intervals you'll run?

 

Since I will not be consistantly running it up to op temp, (although I am taking a longer way to work to get the temp up) the 0W seems to have better protection. Neither oil is going to be able to get past the fuel in the oil, as that is not a parameter of the oil...but of the process.

I am going to experiment with the 0W....seems like very good protection...And since I am going to need as much as possible due to my new driving patterns, I think that the off set would be worth it. I hope Its only money...right?

 

I have recently switched to the Ams 0w30 and so far I am happy with it. I put around 15K miles a year on my Max.

Pedro

 

I HIGHLY suggest you get that car on the freeway for maybe 15min+ at LEAST few times a week. Short trips is REALLY hard on the oil and engine.

 

At least twice a week she is on the highway for 30-45 minutes. Hope thats enough.

 

Is the Amsoil 0w30 API approved??? Meaning if I use the Amsoil 0w30 and have a lube problem will Nissan say I used a non approved oil and not honor my warranty?

 

the best 0W oil i have found (basically measured by the amount of time i could hear the cams at startup before the oil got to them in my benz) was mobil1 0w-40. Since the maxima is not recommended to run with the 40W, id stick to the amsoil 0w-30 for short trips.

Another thing, about your short change intervals. There isnt anything to be embarrassed about. It all boils down to how hard you drive and in what conditions. Every oil that I have ever used down here was significantly worn out after 3750 miles. Im guessing this is due to the intense heat and stop and go driving, plus the constant attempts to pass the miami idiots on the road with apparently nowhere to go.

 

If you have a failure directly attributable to the oil, Nissan can choose to deny the claim. Amsoil will provide coverage for you in that case.

I would think the odds of having a failure caused by the lubricant itself (unless used improperly) are about the same as being struck by lightning. I would use Amsoil in anything before I would use 99 cent dino oil that is "approved" by the API.

 

Thanks for your reply but based on what you are saying, Amsoil 0w30 is not API approved and does not qualify under Nissans warranty requirements. So this would put me between two multi-million dollars corp. pointing their fingers at each other or me, as the reason for the problem. No thanks Guess I'm back to Mobil 1 5w30 or GC 0w30 if I can ever find it.

 

Correct, it is not API approved. The API sets a minimum standard and charges licensing fees. The standard is set so low any somewhat decent oil can pass it. Amsoil's formulations far exceed it, they just haven't spent the millions to pay off the API to get their stamp.

I understand where you are going with not wanting to fight for a warranty claim, it's a pain in the ***. Keep in mind that if you change the oil yourself, Nissan could deny any claim by saying that you weren't qualified to do the work if they felt like it. It's total crap, but it could happen.

If you are really concerned about it, you're right, Mobil 1 or GC would be great choices to use.

 

Thanks iwannabmw, I'm just trying to walk that line. It is a pain in the butt.

 

The amazing thing is that dealers get paid for warranty work. Granted it's not as much as regular work for them, but you'd think they'd walk that fine line between doing the work and having the manufacturer breathe down their necks. Warranty work is better than no work as far as I'm concerned. The attitude of some dealers simply amazes me.

 

Pitbull, don't even worry about the API crap. The Amsoil 0w30 is without a doubt the best oil available for passenger automobiles. It's been proven time and again. Just take a look at the oil analysis spreadsheet. You will never have a oil related failure.

 

I agree I think it's a great oil. I'm looking for a good synthetic that I can use in my 2004 Toyota 4runner V8 and my 2003 Nissan 350Z. I will only be keeping them for 90K miles each and just like to not abuse the engines, so I wanted to go with a good synthetic for a 5K mile OCI in each one. Since I'm not going to be keeping them forever I'm a little risk adverse. That's why the API means more to me at this point. Looks like I will end up using Mobil 1 10w30/5w30 (easy to fine and good UOA). I'm still looking for GC 0w30, but have not found it in my area yet. Still have a little time since my Z has 6000 miles on it and I will be going to synthetic at 7000. The Toyota V8 only has 2500 miles and I will be going to synthetic at 5000 miles. Thanks for the responses, you guys are a great source for information.

 

I guess what I'm getting at is that Amsoil has been in business since 1971 and to this day has never had to pay for engine repair due to an oil related problem. Doesn't Amsoils 5w-30 have the stupid API symbol. To be honest, I'm sure if there was ever a question, I'm sure iwannabmw or talkinghorse would glady send you receipts for Amsoils API approved oil if need be. Just remember that API is literally a joke of a symbol. They have the absolute minimal requirments to pass their tests. You will notice on the 0w-30 that All of the other hardcore tests are posted on the bottle. I've used Amsoil products for years using extremely long drain intervals and have always had fantastic longevity out of the engines. I change my wifes Durango 1 to 2 times a year with the 0w-30 with 3 filter changes. I don't want to turn this into another Mobil vs. Amsoil thread because they are both fantastic oils and Mobil has proven that their new SuperSyn is a huge step forward.

 

Does anyone have any experiense with changin' Series 2000 0W30 at their advertised "at 35,000-mile or one-year intervals, whichever comes first" interval?

I'm going to switch to AMSOil, but from some post on the forum i read that it should be changed at 10K, with filter change @ 5K, while AMSOil website says that you can go up to 35K with filter changes @ 12.5K.

Does the oil start to loose its qualities after 10K, but then how could Amsoil advertise 35K oil change interval?

 

If you don't use your car for work/business purposes, Colonel, why don't you just walk to work. If you can't walk 1.6 miles in 25 minutes and change it might be a good idea to start! Just a thought, it would be better for you, your car and the environment.

 

You have to read the oil analysis spreadsheet. Basically 15-20k is the most your going to get with at least 3 filter changes.

 

Amsoil advertises 25K not 35K, with a filter change at 12.5K.

 

totally agree!

 

If you read carefully what Amsoil says about the Series 2000 0W-30, you'll notice that it says a maximum of 35k OR 1 YEAR. If you dig a little deeper, you'll find that the way most people operate their engines, 35k is not realistic. That's not to say it can't be done, just a small percentage of people can actually do it.

Like others have mentioned, under normal conditions, about the most you'll realistically see out of the oil is 12-15k under some good conditions.

PM me if you'd like pricing info.

 

Pouring down rain and a laptop sucks. But when the weather is ok...I ride my bicycle....but now because of gas prices I use my motorcycle. But in the winter...its pretty cold around here.

I understand the thought though....

 

Just read a fascinating SAE tech doc on new 0W-20 oils.

Sounds like oil technology has advanced so far that they can now make a 0W-20 with enough wear protection, friction reduction, and couple % increase in fuel economy.

Good read~!

 

I was going to bring that into account Icy. I read that document and it got me thinking of switching also. The reason I would switch is because I drive 45 miles each day and I could use the added mileage.

Personally, I think the best reason to go to 0w oil is for added fuel economy. Also these oils were designed for the newly designed highly efficient engines. The good thing is that these oils are good enough to run in an engine like ours.

 

Got a linky? I am now in Belgium, part of a three part tour over here apparently. I need something to read. Sigh....3 weeks....Done Portugal, France and now Belgium...need to get back to the us of a and drive a car with more than 10 hp...

 

I have been leaving Amsoil 0W-30 in 4 cars for 12 month intervals for several years now. No problems at all, the 97 Maxima SE was was switched to Amsoil at 131k with no problems or leaks. Most milage on any of the cars has been 14K per year. I change oil filters at 6 months using Baldwin filters (they make Amsoil filters), they cost me $5.00 instead of $10 for Amsoil branded filters. Oil analysis results have been great. I also run Amsoil 0W-40 in my lawn mower and edger and have done so for 18 months. No problems what so ever just good results.

 

I have also used AMSOIL 0w-30 in my Max for the past several years. The Baldwin filters are very good, but there is a difference between the Baldwin-branded filters and and the product they make for AMSOIL...the AMSOIL filters use the more expensive HD filtering medium, constructed of cellulose, synthetic and glass fibers. The Baldwin application is a paper filter. Baldwin reserves the more expensive medium for their HD applications.

Try the Series 3000 5w-30 in your mower...great stuff Ed

 

No, but I sent it to colonelsmaxima@yahoo.com.


Alex

 

Bill or anyone have any of these?

1. J.E.Clevenger, D.C.Carlson, W.M.Kleiser, "The
Effects of Engine Oil Viscosity and Composition on
Fuel Efficiency", SAE Paper No.841389, Fuel and
Lubricants Meeting and Exposition, Baltimore,
Maryland, October 1984.
2. K.Cashmore, M.Moyle, P.J.Sullivan, "Hydrotreated
Lube Oil Base Stocks", SAE Paper No.821235, Fuels
and Lubricants Meeting, Tronto, Ontario, Canada,
October 1982.
3. M.Ushio, K.Kamiya, T.Yoshida, I.Honjou, "Product of
High VI Base Oil by VGO Deep Hydrocracking,
"Symposium on Processing, Characterization and
Application of Lubricant Base Oils", American
Chemical Society, Proceeding, August 1992,
pp.1293-1302.
4. F.Breimer,H.I.Wareman,A.B.R.Weber,"Hydroisomerizat
ion of Paraffin Wax", J.Inst.Petrol., Vol.43 1957,
pp.297-306.
5. H.M.J.Bijward, W.K.J.Bremer, P.V.Doorne, "The Shell
Hybrid Process, an primized Route for HVI Lube Oil
Manufacture", Petroleum Refining Conference of
JapanPetroleum Institute, October 1986, pp.16-17.
6. J.Igarashi et al, "High Viscosity Index Petroleum
Base Stocks - The High potential Base Stocks for
Fuel Economy Automotive Lubricants, SAE Paper
920659.

 

Ask Steve. I only have the first one.

 

0w-30 Good for FL temps?

 

0W-30 is fine for Florida temps.

 

Thanks! An interesting read. Basically they are saying that 0-20 is good. Only downfall is a "slight" bit more wear for cam lobes.