Attn: Those who rebuilt your engines ...
03-20-2002, 05:13 PM
#1
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Turbomax95
Hey Math,
What did you do to your engine when you rebuilt it?? Mine is out and I'm looking for tips. Anyone can join in if they want.
So far I have the 9:1 compression pistons, rings and heavier valve springs from the VQ30DET motor from the Goria Cedric Nissans.
The rods will be beefed and the machine shop will do their thing.
Anything else?
What did you do to your engine when you rebuilt it?? Mine is out and I'm looking for tips. Anyone can join in if they want.
So far I have the 9:1 compression pistons, rings and heavier valve springs from the VQ30DET motor from the Goria Cedric Nissans.
The rods will be beefed and the machine shop will do their thing.
Anything else?
03-20-2002, 05:56 PM
#2
I think Mathel also "O" ringed the block to help seal it up under high cylinder pressures.
Perhaps some work in the cylinder head would help, http://www.dpr-racing.com/ Dan Padmore Racing can qouted me $2200 for the full bag of head work, they claimed ~20% hp gain! They have different stages that cost less, but of course gain less power.
a NA supra dyno plot w/ before and after head work plots
http://www.dpr-racing.com/pictures/d...on-turbo-a.jpg
What are you having done to the rods to beef them up?
Perhaps some work in the cylinder head would help, http://www.dpr-racing.com/ Dan Padmore Racing can qouted me $2200 for the full bag of head work, they claimed ~20% hp gain! They have different stages that cost less, but of course gain less power.
a NA supra dyno plot w/ before and after head work plots
http://www.dpr-racing.com/pictures/d...on-turbo-a.jpg
What are you having done to the rods to beef them up?
03-20-2002, 06:16 PM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 613
Originally posted by MardiGrasMax
I think Mathel also "O" ringed the block to help seal it up under high cylinder pressures.
Perhaps some work in the cylinder head would help, http://www.dpr-racing.com/ Dan Padmore Racing can qouted me $2200 for the full bag of head work, they claimed ~20% hp gain! They have different stages that cost less, but of course gain less power.
a NA supra dyno plot w/ before and after head work plots
http://www.dpr-racing.com/pictures/d...on-turbo-a.jpg
What are you having done to the rods to beef them up?
I think Mathel also "O" ringed the block to help seal it up under high cylinder pressures.
Perhaps some work in the cylinder head would help, http://www.dpr-racing.com/ Dan Padmore Racing can qouted me $2200 for the full bag of head work, they claimed ~20% hp gain! They have different stages that cost less, but of course gain less power.
a NA supra dyno plot w/ before and after head work plots
http://www.dpr-racing.com/pictures/d...on-turbo-a.jpg
What are you having done to the rods to beef them up?
03-20-2002, 07:10 PM
#4
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Posts: 2,394
03-20-2002, 07:22 PM
#5
Originally posted by Maximamike
I've heard some very negative things about DPR.
www.theoldone.com
Search "Endyn + DPR"
I've heard some very negative things about DPR.
www.theoldone.com
Search "Endyn + DPR"
Ron, maybe you could have the full porting done with some heat rejecting coatings put on the valves, combustion chambers and piston tops. And you can also get the piston skirts coated with somthing that helps reduce friction.
03-20-2002, 07:45 PM
#6
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i basically did everything to the motor. pistons, rods, SS valves, springs, titanium retainers and keepers, Oring block, port/polished heads, swain coatings.
You could check out getting yoru heads port and polished. i dont recommend 7 angle valve jobs for a street car. With more angles has more surfaces for carbon buildup and can actually cause lower compression. you could coat your valves and pistons with swain or HP coatings. knife edge the crank for less windage loss but not recommeneded for durability purposes. hummm what else...iron sleeves if you plan to go CRAZY.
You could check out getting yoru heads port and polished. i dont recommend 7 angle valve jobs for a street car. With more angles has more surfaces for carbon buildup and can actually cause lower compression. you could coat your valves and pistons with swain or HP coatings. knife edge the crank for less windage loss but not recommeneded for durability purposes. hummm what else...iron sleeves if you plan to go CRAZY.
03-20-2002, 09:32 PM
#7
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Thanks for the helpful responses guys!
The pistons came from the factory already molly coated on both top and skirts. It takes too long to have the other parts coated.
You're right about the valve Job, I'm going with 3, the 5 or 7 angle are no good for an everyday ride.
I tried to get forged rods but the waiting time is far too long 6-12 weeks depending on the shop! The only thing I can do is have the stock rods shot peaned and polished. This should be fine. I'll also have to change the rod and crank bearings. By the way, did anyone find new bolts to reconnect the heads to the block??
As far as other work, I'll have the reciprocating components balanced and the intake and exhaust manifolds match ported. The heads will just be cleaned up and the cylinder walls honed. Also, I'll have them o ring the block. No knife edging the crank.
Basically what I'm shooting for is 350 hp at the front wheels. this will require a 75 shot of N2O from 2200-4400 rpm. Right now my car is putting out 280 hp at the wheels. I know it can produce more hp as it sits, but Jim Wolf has me tuned on the low conservative side because he won't push the envelope on our cars because of the high boost unfriendly compression ratio. He actually wouldn't touch my car again unless I lowered the compression!
As a sidenote, we broke the bolts and casing on the passenger side axle because of the rust so I sent both axles to NRH tranny in MD where they'll remanufacture them using chromemollie for the axle and spline.
The pistons came from the factory already molly coated on both top and skirts. It takes too long to have the other parts coated.
You're right about the valve Job, I'm going with 3, the 5 or 7 angle are no good for an everyday ride.
I tried to get forged rods but the waiting time is far too long 6-12 weeks depending on the shop! The only thing I can do is have the stock rods shot peaned and polished. This should be fine. I'll also have to change the rod and crank bearings. By the way, did anyone find new bolts to reconnect the heads to the block??
As far as other work, I'll have the reciprocating components balanced and the intake and exhaust manifolds match ported. The heads will just be cleaned up and the cylinder walls honed. Also, I'll have them o ring the block. No knife edging the crank.
Basically what I'm shooting for is 350 hp at the front wheels. this will require a 75 shot of N2O from 2200-4400 rpm. Right now my car is putting out 280 hp at the wheels. I know it can produce more hp as it sits, but Jim Wolf has me tuned on the low conservative side because he won't push the envelope on our cars because of the high boost unfriendly compression ratio. He actually wouldn't touch my car again unless I lowered the compression!
As a sidenote, we broke the bolts and casing on the passenger side axle because of the rust so I sent both axles to NRH tranny in MD where they'll remanufacture them using chromemollie for the axle and spline.
03-20-2002, 10:16 PM
#10
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Posts: 613
Head jobs
Yeah, one of my old buddies has one of those boxy looking older Alfa Romeo station wagons, but it's pretty small and tight, and he's cherried it out beautifully. He has access to a machine shop where he used to work, so he can pretty much make anything he wants. That thing has a 4-banger, and he could blow away my bigger 2.5 liter GTV6 coupe! I could finally take him when I got the 3.0 in, but then I blew my trani .... anyone wanna buy an Alfa project car? 
03-20-2002, 11:29 PM
#12
Turtle turtle... Moderator
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Originally posted by i30krab
Thanks for the helpful responses guys!
The pistons came from the factory already molly coated on both top and skirts. It takes too long to have the other parts coated.
You're right about the valve Job, I'm going with 3, the 5 or 7 angle are no good for an everyday ride.
I tried to get forged rods but the waiting time is far too long 6-12 weeks depending on the shop! The only thing I can do is have the stock rods shot peaned and polished. This should be fine. I'll also have to change the rod and crank bearings. By the way, did anyone find new bolts to reconnect the heads to the block??
As far as other work, I'll have the reciprocating components balanced and the intake and exhaust manifolds match ported. The heads will just be cleaned up and the cylinder walls honed. Also, I'll have them o ring the block. No knife edging the crank.
Basically what I'm shooting for is 350 hp at the front wheels. this will require a 75 shot of N2O from 2200-4400 rpm. Right now my car is putting out 280 hp at the wheels. I know it can produce more hp as it sits, but Jim Wolf has me tuned on the low conservative side because he won't push the envelope on our cars because of the high boost unfriendly compression ratio. He actually wouldn't touch my car again unless I lowered the compression!
As a sidenote, we broke the bolts and casing on the passenger side axle because of the rust so I sent both axles to NRH tranny in MD where they'll remanufacture them using chromemollie for the axle and spline.
Thanks for the helpful responses guys!
The pistons came from the factory already molly coated on both top and skirts. It takes too long to have the other parts coated.
You're right about the valve Job, I'm going with 3, the 5 or 7 angle are no good for an everyday ride.
I tried to get forged rods but the waiting time is far too long 6-12 weeks depending on the shop! The only thing I can do is have the stock rods shot peaned and polished. This should be fine. I'll also have to change the rod and crank bearings. By the way, did anyone find new bolts to reconnect the heads to the block??
As far as other work, I'll have the reciprocating components balanced and the intake and exhaust manifolds match ported. The heads will just be cleaned up and the cylinder walls honed. Also, I'll have them o ring the block. No knife edging the crank.
Basically what I'm shooting for is 350 hp at the front wheels. this will require a 75 shot of N2O from 2200-4400 rpm. Right now my car is putting out 280 hp at the wheels. I know it can produce more hp as it sits, but Jim Wolf has me tuned on the low conservative side because he won't push the envelope on our cars because of the high boost unfriendly compression ratio. He actually wouldn't touch my car again unless I lowered the compression!
As a sidenote, we broke the bolts and casing on the passenger side axle because of the rust so I sent both axles to NRH tranny in MD where they'll remanufacture them using chromemollie for the axle and spline.
anyways, from what i have heard, (not 100% sure) that most import connecting rods are shot peened already. on my pistons, we put this black coating on the piston skirts, what its suppose to do is draw heat away from the piston dome and to the skirt area where the oil can remove the heat.
03-21-2002, 02:07 AM
#13
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,816
Originally posted by i30krab
Thanks for the helpful responses guys!
The pistons came from the factory already molly coated on both top and skirts. It takes too long to have the other parts coated.
You're right about the valve Job, I'm going with 3, the 5 or 7 angle are no good for an everyday ride.
I tried to get forged rods but the waiting time is far too long 6-12 weeks depending on the shop! The only thing I can do is have the stock rods shot peaned and polished. This should be fine. I'll also have to change the rod and crank bearings. By the way, did anyone find new bolts to reconnect the heads to the block??
As far as other work, I'll have the reciprocating components balanced and the intake and exhaust manifolds match ported. The heads will just be cleaned up and the cylinder walls honed. Also, I'll have them o ring the block. No knife edging the crank.
Basically what I'm shooting for is 350 hp at the front wheels. this will require a 75 shot of N2O from 2200-4400 rpm. Right now my car is putting out 280 hp at the wheels. I know it can produce more hp as it sits, but Jim Wolf has me tuned on the low conservative side because he won't push the envelope on our cars because of the high boost unfriendly compression ratio. He actually wouldn't touch my car again unless I lowered the compression!
As a sidenote, we broke the bolts and casing on the passenger side axle because of the rust so I sent both axles to NRH tranny in MD where they'll remanufacture them using chromemollie for the axle and spline.
Thanks for the helpful responses guys!
The pistons came from the factory already molly coated on both top and skirts. It takes too long to have the other parts coated.
You're right about the valve Job, I'm going with 3, the 5 or 7 angle are no good for an everyday ride.
I tried to get forged rods but the waiting time is far too long 6-12 weeks depending on the shop! The only thing I can do is have the stock rods shot peaned and polished. This should be fine. I'll also have to change the rod and crank bearings. By the way, did anyone find new bolts to reconnect the heads to the block??
As far as other work, I'll have the reciprocating components balanced and the intake and exhaust manifolds match ported. The heads will just be cleaned up and the cylinder walls honed. Also, I'll have them o ring the block. No knife edging the crank.
Basically what I'm shooting for is 350 hp at the front wheels. this will require a 75 shot of N2O from 2200-4400 rpm. Right now my car is putting out 280 hp at the wheels. I know it can produce more hp as it sits, but Jim Wolf has me tuned on the low conservative side because he won't push the envelope on our cars because of the high boost unfriendly compression ratio. He actually wouldn't touch my car again unless I lowered the compression!
As a sidenote, we broke the bolts and casing on the passenger side axle because of the rust so I sent both axles to NRH tranny in MD where they'll remanufacture them using chromemollie for the axle and spline.
03-21-2002, 02:39 AM
#14
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,807
You have pretty much covered the basics. The only other thing is to swap your old IM to a 2000+ VQ dual capacity IM, and headwork. Since you are reving the motor higher than normal I guess getting a more aggressive street port work. Also what type of cams are you going to use? VQ30DET stock cams should work alot better than USDM VQ30DE cams assuming they aren't the same. I was wondering wouldn't it have been easier to just use a JDM VQ30DET short block? Then you would be able to part out your old VQ.
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