Microvision 7" TFT Screens w/ remote & mount + case
03-13-2005, 06:11 PM
#322
Here is my write up for this!
DVD player, 7” Screen and Rear-View-Camera WRITE UP:
Disclaimer: I am not liable if you mess up your car. This is a guide, not the definitive way to do this project! Use at your own risk...
General:
You need to be organized. Read through this entire write up and see if you are capable of doing this and that you have everything you need BEFORE YOU START. For someone with electrical knowledge I estimate between 6-10 hours of work. For total electrical noobs like me give yourself a couple days at least to work on it in case something goes wrong or you feel like you're going to go nuts if you look at another wire again!
Things needed:
3, 30 amp switches (you might be able to get away with 10 amp ones, the rvc, screen, dvd player, at least 3, 25 foot length of wire (3 different colors), electrical tape, duct or masking tape for labelling wires, wire strippers or sharp scisors (and very careful hands), A 12 foot video cable, a 3 or 6 foot video cable (depending on where you mount your video switcher), 15 amp automotive fuse, markers or pens to write your labels, phillips head screw driver, flat head screw driver, PATIENCE, and more PATIENCE!
SWITCHES:
DO the test fitting of the switches BEFORE you attach your wires!!!
For the switches, I wanted them to be illuminated so I use d a single pole switch (toggle switch) from radioshack that had three prongs. 1)attached to the power source- in my case the cigarette lighter, 2)attached to the "load"- ie, screen, dvd player or rear view camera. 3) ground. This ground is what makes the switch illuminate. I grounded them behind the dash underneath the center heating vents Don't forget to LABEL each wire with the masking or duct tape (ie 1) (rvc) to power, 2) (rvc) to rvc power wire, 3) (rvc) to ground), etc. and so forth
Look at the diagram on the back of the switch packaging and you'll understand which prong is 1,2 and 3.
Switch mounting:
Ok for switch mounting in the ash tray- this takes some creativity. I originally used two (expired) credit cards spray painted, with flush fitting holes drilled in but they proved too flimsy. I later redid the mounting with cardboard and reinforced it with duct tape. Look at the pictures above for the basic shape. Just be sure to 1) draw out on the back where you want to drill the holes so the switches are even and 2) measure out the size of the holes needed to fit the switches prongs AND connected wiring through while still being able to screw the retainer ring on the backside so that the switch stays completely in one spot.
I later spray painted and clearcoated it so it looks relatively good (not getto at all when mounted imho).
You have to drill holes in the bottom of your ashtry to feed the wires through. Be generous with hole sizes! As you can see from the pictures, there are 9 wires that have to fit through a relatively small space that articulates when you open and close the ashtray. In order for the opening and closing to be smooth, drill big (0.5-1 inch diameter) holes.
REAR VIEW CAMERA
To make the RVC fit where my trunk lock used to be:
1) undo trim carpet, 2) pull out the retainer clip thingy towards the drivers side. This takes some steady force and you're trying to dislodge those two extensions that wrap around the key turn contraption. Go look at it and you will understand. 3) remove screw attaching rod to key tumbler thingy. 4) remove key tumbler, 5) VERY GENTLY, LITTLE BY LITTLE dremel the hole bigger. TEST FIT every few mm's to see if your rvc fits. 6) attach screw retainer things and screw on until it's ALMOST totally tight. You will come back to this to adjust the camera so the picture is upright and aligned once your screen is working.
Basically, my camera came with two female wires, one for video (yellow) and one for power (red). I attached a 12 foot video cable to the video source and wired it too my switcher which sits right at the base of the center console and drivers seat, out of sight from everyone expect me.
For the power, I cut off the red female adapter and saw that there was a red and a black wire. The black is ground. I wired that to where the trunk hinge is mounted on the passenger side of the trunk. (It was tricky to get the length exactly right so that it doesn't impede closing of the trunk but also doesn't look all loose and sloppy. It's a trial and error thing. TEST FIT before actually attaching it to the ground point!)The red I spliced a long wire to it and ran it to the switches.
It's pretty easy to wire up the rear view camera. It's the running it to the switches, video switcher at to it's grounding point that takes the longest part. I ended up poking a tiny (non visible hole in my carpet by the passengers seat and wiring everything underneath so it's completely hidden! Much cleaner imho. you'll need to take out the rear seat to really keep it hidden.
SCREEN
you need to remove the entire center console (center vents, climate control, vents, ash tray, shifter trim, etc.) Please refer to the how2's for this procedure!!!
To mount the screen I took out the two drawers and my headunit by unscrewing on the side of the metal supports/mounting brackets. This opened up a big enough space to mount the screen underneath the climate control. It's easier if you have two people for this. The screen fits REALLY tightly once you have removed the backing with the included metal trim remover. You need one person to press the metal brackets together with STEADY pressure so you can screw in the headunit below the screen. When you take it apart you'll see what I mean. Remember, 1) Steady pressure so you don't break the screen, 2) the infra red eye goes in the bottom left so the picture is upright!
I ended up wiring both the RED and the ORANGE wires to one wire for power and wiring that to prong 2 of one of my switches.
DVD PLAYER:
In order for the DVD player to be mounted flush in the glove-compartment, you HAVE to remove the compartment, and take it apart so you can test fit the player. I don't remember all the steps to remove my glove compartment but I basically got down under it and I think there were 4 screws to undo. Then I just use firm pulling to dislodge the retainer clips and free the compartment. Be carefull, there are a couple wires attached to the glove compartement for illumination!
I brought the glove compartment inside, test fit the dvd player and mounting brackets. I then drilled a couple holes where the mounting brackets would sit and shaved down the screws with the dremel just enough so I could keep the hidden metal security steel safety plate that prevents glove compartement theft. IMPORTANT! Do it little by little so you don't lose total function of the mounting screws!!!I also drilled the holes in the back to allow the wires to fit and so the DVD player could sit as far back as possible. If you look carefully, there are identical holes below the ones I actually used. (I now call these "ventilation holes"
)
Video from the DVD and Rearview camera go to the switcher which then outputs one video cable which goes to the screen.
For audio, you can do a couple things. 1) Either wire from the DVD player straight to the headunit's aux input 2) My Pioneer headunit didn't have an AUX in but it DID have a connection for the optional changer controls. I found out through some research on Crutchfield that there is a special cable that converts this connection to two RCA inputs (perfect for this project). There were two types, one that kept the control of the changer (10 bucks more I think) and one that loses control of a changer. Get the one that is applicable to your systemif you need it at all. 3) You can wire the audio to the audio/visual switcher and then have another audio RCA cable run to the aforementioned headunit.
I found that audio was crisper if wired directly from the DVD player to the headunit. (makes sense) ONE NOTE OF CAUTION. Be sure to run the audio wire as far above the ECU which sits behind the dash near the center-bottom. I had mine about 6 inches away and before I moved it I had an annoying whine distortion from the cable picking up the electrical signals from the ECU. I guess if you want to spend the dough you can get monster cables which I believe are completely shielded but the cheaper solution is just wire the audio cable far above the ecu and then bring it down to the headunit. (That solved it for me. Thanks Don! )
WIRING:
So when you have returned your glove compartment with dvd player to the car, have the screen mounted and the Rear view camera mounted, it's time to wire! Just refer to your labels double check everything and you'll be fine.
Remember Wire the power wires from the DVD player, RVC and screen directly to the switches (prong 2) and splice into a power supply like your cigarette lighter and connect those wires to prong 1 of each switch. Prong 3 is ground.
IMPORTANT! Don't forget to change your cigarette lighter fuse to 15 amps!!!
There is a memory 12V+ wire that allows the DVD player to "remember" where you were in your movie. This I connected to an always on power source in my stereo cables. You have to fish around until you find the wire that says 12V+ memory just like the wire from the DVD. There are other always on wires like the one from your clock if you are too squemish to play with the audio wires! I believe the DVD player has it's own ground wire which I wired somewhere behind the center console (anything metal and sturdy will do)
Once you have wired all 9 wires from the switches and a all your wires going to the components are connected...RECHECK and make sure all your wires and grounds and connections are where they are supposed to be. THEN turn the car to the ACC position and test out everything! If everything is working, I highly suggest you make sure all the exposed wires (including where they are grounded) are covered with electrical tape to prevent shorts,etc if something comes loose.
Then just GENTLY put the climate control/screen/headunit part back in, screw the four screws in, put your ash tray GENTLY back and make sure the wires aren't pinching and that it opens and closes smoothly, then put back the shifter trim and vents and you are all done!!!
If you are successfull CONGRATS!!!
Pearls of wisdom:
1)When wiring everything, take it slow, make sure the wires are tight as heck and won't come apart before using the electrical tape to cover the splicing. This will prevent problems after many potholes.
2)Test fit everything first before drilling anything or splicing anything!!! And after you drill, test fit again!
3)Take your time, take breaks, and don't forget to eat meals, drink water, etc. There were a couple days that I was plain groutchy when I forgot to do that. If you heed these words, it will be a more pleasurable experience and you won't make as many mistakes that will take time to correct!
Lastly, if anyone that has done this already SUCCESFULLY sees a mistake, or has a better way of doing something, please feel free to add to this!!!
Enjoy and good luck!!!
DVD player, 7” Screen and Rear-View-Camera WRITE UP:
Disclaimer: I am not liable if you mess up your car. This is a guide, not the definitive way to do this project! Use at your own risk...
General:
You need to be organized. Read through this entire write up and see if you are capable of doing this and that you have everything you need BEFORE YOU START. For someone with electrical knowledge I estimate between 6-10 hours of work. For total electrical noobs like me give yourself a couple days at least to work on it in case something goes wrong or you feel like you're going to go nuts if you look at another wire again!
Things needed:
3, 30 amp switches (you might be able to get away with 10 amp ones, the rvc, screen, dvd player, at least 3, 25 foot length of wire (3 different colors), electrical tape, duct or masking tape for labelling wires, wire strippers or sharp scisors (and very careful hands), A 12 foot video cable, a 3 or 6 foot video cable (depending on where you mount your video switcher), 15 amp automotive fuse, markers or pens to write your labels, phillips head screw driver, flat head screw driver, PATIENCE, and more PATIENCE!
SWITCHES:
DO the test fitting of the switches BEFORE you attach your wires!!!
For the switches, I wanted them to be illuminated so I use d a single pole switch (toggle switch) from radioshack that had three prongs. 1)attached to the power source- in my case the cigarette lighter, 2)attached to the "load"- ie, screen, dvd player or rear view camera. 3) ground. This ground is what makes the switch illuminate. I grounded them behind the dash underneath the center heating vents Don't forget to LABEL each wire with the masking or duct tape (ie 1) (rvc) to power, 2) (rvc) to rvc power wire, 3) (rvc) to ground), etc. and so forth
Look at the diagram on the back of the switch packaging and you'll understand which prong is 1,2 and 3.
Switch mounting:
Ok for switch mounting in the ash tray- this takes some creativity. I originally used two (expired) credit cards spray painted, with flush fitting holes drilled in but they proved too flimsy. I later redid the mounting with cardboard and reinforced it with duct tape. Look at the pictures above for the basic shape. Just be sure to 1) draw out on the back where you want to drill the holes so the switches are even and 2) measure out the size of the holes needed to fit the switches prongs AND connected wiring through while still being able to screw the retainer ring on the backside so that the switch stays completely in one spot.
I later spray painted and clearcoated it so it looks relatively good (not getto at all when mounted imho).
You have to drill holes in the bottom of your ashtry to feed the wires through. Be generous with hole sizes! As you can see from the pictures, there are 9 wires that have to fit through a relatively small space that articulates when you open and close the ashtray. In order for the opening and closing to be smooth, drill big (0.5-1 inch diameter) holes.
REAR VIEW CAMERA
To make the RVC fit where my trunk lock used to be:
1) undo trim carpet, 2) pull out the retainer clip thingy towards the drivers side. This takes some steady force and you're trying to dislodge those two extensions that wrap around the key turn contraption. Go look at it and you will understand. 3) remove screw attaching rod to key tumbler thingy. 4) remove key tumbler, 5) VERY GENTLY, LITTLE BY LITTLE dremel the hole bigger. TEST FIT every few mm's to see if your rvc fits. 6) attach screw retainer things and screw on until it's ALMOST totally tight. You will come back to this to adjust the camera so the picture is upright and aligned once your screen is working.
Basically, my camera came with two female wires, one for video (yellow) and one for power (red). I attached a 12 foot video cable to the video source and wired it too my switcher which sits right at the base of the center console and drivers seat, out of sight from everyone expect me.
For the power, I cut off the red female adapter and saw that there was a red and a black wire. The black is ground. I wired that to where the trunk hinge is mounted on the passenger side of the trunk. (It was tricky to get the length exactly right so that it doesn't impede closing of the trunk but also doesn't look all loose and sloppy. It's a trial and error thing. TEST FIT before actually attaching it to the ground point!)The red I spliced a long wire to it and ran it to the switches.
It's pretty easy to wire up the rear view camera. It's the running it to the switches, video switcher at to it's grounding point that takes the longest part. I ended up poking a tiny (non visible hole in my carpet by the passengers seat and wiring everything underneath so it's completely hidden! Much cleaner imho. you'll need to take out the rear seat to really keep it hidden.
SCREEN
you need to remove the entire center console (center vents, climate control, vents, ash tray, shifter trim, etc.) Please refer to the how2's for this procedure!!!
To mount the screen I took out the two drawers and my headunit by unscrewing on the side of the metal supports/mounting brackets. This opened up a big enough space to mount the screen underneath the climate control. It's easier if you have two people for this. The screen fits REALLY tightly once you have removed the backing with the included metal trim remover. You need one person to press the metal brackets together with STEADY pressure so you can screw in the headunit below the screen. When you take it apart you'll see what I mean. Remember, 1) Steady pressure so you don't break the screen, 2) the infra red eye goes in the bottom left so the picture is upright!
I ended up wiring both the RED and the ORANGE wires to one wire for power and wiring that to prong 2 of one of my switches.
DVD PLAYER:
In order for the DVD player to be mounted flush in the glove-compartment, you HAVE to remove the compartment, and take it apart so you can test fit the player. I don't remember all the steps to remove my glove compartment but I basically got down under it and I think there were 4 screws to undo. Then I just use firm pulling to dislodge the retainer clips and free the compartment. Be carefull, there are a couple wires attached to the glove compartement for illumination!
I brought the glove compartment inside, test fit the dvd player and mounting brackets. I then drilled a couple holes where the mounting brackets would sit and shaved down the screws with the dremel just enough so I could keep the hidden metal security steel safety plate that prevents glove compartement theft. IMPORTANT! Do it little by little so you don't lose total function of the mounting screws!!!I also drilled the holes in the back to allow the wires to fit and so the DVD player could sit as far back as possible. If you look carefully, there are identical holes below the ones I actually used. (I now call these "ventilation holes"
)Video from the DVD and Rearview camera go to the switcher which then outputs one video cable which goes to the screen.
For audio, you can do a couple things. 1) Either wire from the DVD player straight to the headunit's aux input 2) My Pioneer headunit didn't have an AUX in but it DID have a connection for the optional changer controls. I found out through some research on Crutchfield that there is a special cable that converts this connection to two RCA inputs (perfect for this project). There were two types, one that kept the control of the changer (10 bucks more I think) and one that loses control of a changer. Get the one that is applicable to your systemif you need it at all. 3) You can wire the audio to the audio/visual switcher and then have another audio RCA cable run to the aforementioned headunit.
I found that audio was crisper if wired directly from the DVD player to the headunit. (makes sense) ONE NOTE OF CAUTION. Be sure to run the audio wire as far above the ECU which sits behind the dash near the center-bottom. I had mine about 6 inches away and before I moved it I had an annoying whine distortion from the cable picking up the electrical signals from the ECU. I guess if you want to spend the dough you can get monster cables which I believe are completely shielded but the cheaper solution is just wire the audio cable far above the ecu and then bring it down to the headunit. (That solved it for me. Thanks Don!
)WIRING:
So when you have returned your glove compartment with dvd player to the car, have the screen mounted and the Rear view camera mounted, it's time to wire! Just refer to your labels double check everything and you'll be fine.
Remember Wire the power wires from the DVD player, RVC and screen directly to the switches (prong 2) and splice into a power supply like your cigarette lighter and connect those wires to prong 1 of each switch. Prong 3 is ground.
IMPORTANT! Don't forget to change your cigarette lighter fuse to 15 amps!!!
There is a memory 12V+ wire that allows the DVD player to "remember" where you were in your movie. This I connected to an always on power source in my stereo cables. You have to fish around until you find the wire that says 12V+ memory just like the wire from the DVD. There are other always on wires like the one from your clock if you are too squemish to play with the audio wires! I believe the DVD player has it's own ground wire which I wired somewhere behind the center console (anything metal and sturdy will do)
Once you have wired all 9 wires from the switches and a all your wires going to the components are connected...RECHECK and make sure all your wires and grounds and connections are where they are supposed to be. THEN turn the car to the ACC position and test out everything! If everything is working, I highly suggest you make sure all the exposed wires (including where they are grounded) are covered with electrical tape to prevent shorts,etc if something comes loose.
Then just GENTLY put the climate control/screen/headunit part back in, screw the four screws in, put your ash tray GENTLY back and make sure the wires aren't pinching and that it opens and closes smoothly, then put back the shifter trim and vents and you are all done!!!
If you are successfull CONGRATS!!!
Pearls of wisdom:
1)When wiring everything, take it slow, make sure the wires are tight as heck and won't come apart before using the electrical tape to cover the splicing. This will prevent problems after many potholes.
2)Test fit everything first before drilling anything or splicing anything!!! And after you drill, test fit again!
3)Take your time, take breaks, and don't forget to eat meals, drink water, etc. There were a couple days that I was plain groutchy when I forgot to do that. If you heed these words, it will be a more pleasurable experience and you won't make as many mistakes that will take time to correct!
Lastly, if anyone that has done this already SUCCESFULLY sees a mistake, or has a better way of doing something, please feel free to add to this!!!
Enjoy and good luck!!!
03-20-2005, 09:30 PM
#323
does anyone have the flipdown installed with the beige shroud thats included with it? i would like to know how it was installed because of the gap between the screen and the headliner with the shroud in the middle. thanx
oh yea, for those that do have that shroud, what about the switch for the domelight? the shroud doesnt have a notch cut out to access the switch. any suggestions on that as well.
oh yea, for those that do have that shroud, what about the switch for the domelight? the shroud doesnt have a notch cut out to access the switch. any suggestions on that as well.
03-23-2005, 04:17 PM
#327
I wanted to install the monitor symmetrically, meaning the black housing on top and bottom being the same height, but it was blocking the IR eye. So we extended the wiring and put the IR eye in my dash instead. I'll have to take a pic to show you what I mean.
03-23-2005, 04:43 PM
#328
Originally Posted by felix
I wanted to install the monitor symmetrically, meaning the black housing on top and bottom being the same height, but it was blocking the IR eye. So we extended the wiring and put the IR eye in my dash instead. I'll have to take a pic to show you what I mean.
i noticed felixes looked pretty centered did you do the same?
03-23-2005, 05:20 PM
#329
Hey Bryan.... I've got a couple of questions about the player that I noticed didn't get addressed as of yet (and others that already HAVE the DVD player feel free to chime in).
1. What's the operating temperature of the player (high and low)?
2. Have there been any issues documented that you are aware of regarding the effects of extreme temperature changes affecting playback?
Reason I'm asking these questions is that I'm currently on my third in-dash mounted DVD player (one from Microvision, one from Alpine, and my current one from Pyle). And in each of the prior two installs, the players had the WORST time playing even regular CDs once it got cold (and keep in mind, most of the winter you'll hear ND as the "cold spot" of the nation - with below zero temps in the double digit range on a regular basis). And the same could be said for the upper end of the temp spectrum...
1. What's the operating temperature of the player (high and low)?
2. Have there been any issues documented that you are aware of regarding the effects of extreme temperature changes affecting playback?
Reason I'm asking these questions is that I'm currently on my third in-dash mounted DVD player (one from Microvision, one from Alpine, and my current one from Pyle). And in each of the prior two installs, the players had the WORST time playing even regular CDs once it got cold (and keep in mind, most of the winter you'll hear ND as the "cold spot" of the nation - with below zero temps in the double digit range on a regular basis). And the same could be said for the upper end of the temp spectrum...
03-23-2005, 11:22 PM
#330
Does anyone have the flipdown installed? I really need help. when i installed mine the domelight stays on when the door is shut, and the switch is in "door" mode. i cannot turn the power off. it says EXT ON when the button is pressed. the headphones just have static with both frequencies.
03-24-2005, 05:46 PM
#331
Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 30
hey man
i'm really interested in the
7" TFT screen
Part number - FXMTV-7000BCT
and was wondering if you still had any in stock, i can send money whenever, and however works for you.
Send me an email at anderson_jae@yahoo.com
or just reply here
thanks
i'm really interested in the
7" TFT screen
Part number - FXMTV-7000BCT
and was wondering if you still had any in stock, i can send money whenever, and however works for you.
Send me an email at anderson_jae@yahoo.com
or just reply here
thanks
04-10-2005, 09:03 AM
#333
Originally Posted by nyautostyle
will this fit with the gxe dash on the 5.5s?
04-10-2005, 06:22 PM
#335
Originally Posted by DRIFFT MAX
Is this deal still going?? and whats the final price??
$155 shipped to your door. Add $2.50 if you want insurance.
If you want to add a DVD player then add $104.
04-12-2005, 12:06 AM
#337
Originally Posted by nubiannupe
Hey Bryan.... I've got a couple of questions about the player that I noticed didn't get addressed as of yet (and others that already HAVE the DVD player feel free to chime in).
1. What's the operating temperature of the player (high and low)?
2. Have there been any issues documented that you are aware of regarding the effects of extreme temperature changes affecting playback?
Reason I'm asking these questions is that I'm currently on my third in-dash mounted DVD player (one from Microvision, one from Alpine, and my current one from Pyle). And in each of the prior two installs, the players had the WORST time playing even regular CDs once it got cold (and keep in mind, most of the winter you'll hear ND as the "cold spot" of the nation - with below zero temps in the double digit range on a regular basis). And the same could be said for the upper end of the temp spectrum...
1. What's the operating temperature of the player (high and low)?
2. Have there been any issues documented that you are aware of regarding the effects of extreme temperature changes affecting playback?
Reason I'm asking these questions is that I'm currently on my third in-dash mounted DVD player (one from Microvision, one from Alpine, and my current one from Pyle). And in each of the prior two installs, the players had the WORST time playing even regular CDs once it got cold (and keep in mind, most of the winter you'll hear ND as the "cold spot" of the nation - with below zero temps in the double digit range on a regular basis). And the same could be said for the upper end of the temp spectrum...
Anyone have an answer?
04-13-2005, 07:58 AM
#338
Hey is the dvd player still available? The original thats posted in the first page? How much is it with the screen shipped to 78526. Is it a perfect fit onto the 4th gen dash?
04-13-2005, 06:33 PM
#339
Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 205
Originally Posted by NismoMaxman2
Hey is the dvd player still available? The original thats posted in the first page? How much is it with the screen shipped to 78526. Is it a perfect fit onto the 4th gen dash?
And the width fits in perfectly and flush with the console, the only thing I would say is theres a little small gap between the DVD player and the Pioneer screen I have on top of it.. but it might be due to the Pioneer HU, but either way it looks awesome and it works great! Thanks again Bryan!
12-07-2009, 05:07 PM
#340
Are you still selling the 7" TFT screen Part number - FXMTV-7000BCT screens i'd like to buy one from you on the 12th
EDIT: damn i cant believe i didnt notice how old this thread is
EDIT: damn i cant believe i didnt notice how old this thread is
Last edited by mikecmidd; 12-07-2009 at 06:30 PM.
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