The bell housings are the same. There is no part number for a complete VLSD "package" because you can only order the parts seperately. Keep in mind that you cannot install the VLSD in a non-VLSD tranny. The parts are ment to replace broken ones.

 

hey guys i was thinking about continuing my mods which btw i will post pics in the member rides tomorrow of my baby and what i got so far... but i am gonna do performance stuff next does anyone have any experience with the following kit? http://www.raceinspired.com/ps-6691-...iliateid=10050

do you know how much it lowers the car? is the ride real bad? is the performance in turns increased a lot? etc... any feedback would be awesome thank you.

 

You will love the tokico's, but to answer your questions, there are COUNTLESS suspension threads for your car and a suspension sticky in the 5th gen forum, there is also an advanced performance suspension section of the forum

 

**
I wasn't sure if you could just plug it in, The 5sp/6sp will take the LSD swap directly from the maxima. I was hoping that this would be just as easy for the Auto. Do you have any information on the part #'s for the individual part #'s? In the research I did it appears all the gears are the same ratios so I assumed the same parts and if it is a mechanical diff then it could just plug in - no?

 

Just like the auto, a manual non VLSD tranny can't take manual VLSD parts either... the transmisson case is not large enough. THe only way to get the VLSD is to get the entire transmission.

 

Just hooked up my USASPEC Ipod integration kit to my stock bose radio. It all works fine but today my ipod paused for some reason and I heard this screeching sound coming out of the speakers. Get this, the screech is relative to my tachometer. It sounds like im driving a crappy little RC car from the interior. It made me and my friends crack up but it got annoying after a while, So i resumed the ipod.

I can only hear it if my volume is maxed out and nothing is playing. I cant tell if it's only with the cdchanger/ipod or with the whole system (since FM always has sound, and I cant change to any other sources w/o inputs.)

Anyways, Is this a problem that will get worse with time or should I just ignore it?

 

Hi all-
Found this forum from an ad in a review of an I30 on MSN.com auto reviews, so I thought Id post a question.

On Friday, I bought a 97' I30 Diamond White/Beige w. 123K miles, 3900$, exc cond (one dent!)

So, it runs great and idles perfect, but when I put it into any gear when the engine is cold (weather here is upper 70s in the morning), I get a hollow sound like a basketball hitting the ground almost when it shifts into gear. Is this a problem? OR something that occurs just because the engine is cold. If I put it back in park then pick drive or reverse again, it didnt make the sound. Anyone else hear this?

Thanks,
Corey

 

what is that module I need to buy to hook my subs up to my stock head unit? I remember a few months ago I looked into it but can't seem to recall.
Where can i get it?

 

I don't remeber what they're called but I got one at car toy's about 5 years ago.

 

PAC AOEM

There is a number associated with it (a model number), but it varries with the year and model of the car. I think that we use a NISS-AOEM-1

 

Question: I have a 99 Infiniti I30 with the service engine light on. I read the above links where it tells you how to check the light with the blinks, etc for a 4th get maxima. But when I pulled the panel off to expose the ECU, the little white sticker is called idlespeed adjustment and then says "low - high - self diagnosis" and there isn't a small flathead screw too adjust. The sticker wasn't broken thru either. Is there something I'm missing? I was assuming the I30's and maxima's are the same. Did they change something for this year?

 

screw the pac stuff get the Mitek RE-Q http://www.mitekcorp.com/pr.cfm?ID=2058

i'm running one and i love it

 

Hey i was driving today and this light came on in my dash anyone have any clue as to what it is? Also my rpm are droping VERY fast and the car moves very slow when i dont press the gas. Any help would be great.

 

Your washer fluid level is low. As for the other item, you need to be more detailed.

 

The car drops rpms very fast to fast. Like the *** would fly down instead of gradually falling down. It just zooms down no delay at all.

 

I got the problem on the car resolved and purchased it. But now it has a slight shudder when letting off the accelerator. The car is a '99 I30 with 95,000 miles on it, and it is an auto of course. I didn't notice the problem when test driving and the guys we had inspect the car didn't either, apparently, so it may be a new thing or it may not be. It only occurs when you're lightly pushing the accelerator down and then let it off. Slight shuddering. If you push the pedal down further and then quickly let off, you don't get the problem. I haven't been able to figure out yet if it is related to the RPMs or not.

Does anyone have any idea what this could be? I've tried searching, and I heard several different possibilities. Is the shudder damaging to the car? I'd like to get it fixed, of course, but it may have to be held off for a while...

 

I have a 2003 Infiniti I35, and I have water dripping into my passenger side compartment, I hear there is a NISSAN TSB, if anyone has that I would appreciate it.

I took it to a shop and they charged $70 to unclog the ac drain, this was about a week ago, and I am still having the same issues.

thanks for your help

 

Hi, I just recently bought a 1996 Infiniti I30T, 130k, $2000, and needs a bit of TLC.

Are there any carbon fiber hoods for this car, or do I have to get one custom made?

 

So just a quick question, the belts in the car that should be changed are called what? (the serpetine and power steering belt)? Is there some other name those belts are called? Easy job to DIY?
Thanks

 

Someone turned left in front of me so the front of my I30 is smashed. The other guy's insurance of course wants to total it as body shop quoted $5200 in repairs and the insurance will only give me $4200 if I keep it. I'm planning on having a mechanic take a look at it this week to see what problems I might expect should I repair it.

My question is, at 125K how many more miles should I/could I expect out of this car?

I love my car, but if I'm going to spend the money to keep it, I don't want the engine dying in another 10k or 20k miles. I've searched used cars and I'm not finding many I30s for sale with as many miles as I have.

 

So I also noticed the cv boot by the wheel is torn. Need some advice. You think the cv boot can just be replaced or does the whole transaxel need to be changed out. No I don't hear any clicking, but I can feel the clicking or vibration through the floorboard. Any suggestion would be helpful.
And I did try to search, but all the links came up dead.
Thanks

 

It will have to be custom.

 

Yes, that is what they are called. Very easy... Its an hour job tops.

 

These engines are good for at least 300K+ with proper maintenence. However, $5200 in damages is a lot... even with top notch repairs, the car will never be the same again... time to move on to something else.

 

The org is in a transitional phase right now... so have patience with the links. Anyways, don't waste your time with replacing the boot. The whole axel needs to be replaced.

 

Mine had a similar click & vibe noise while moving & in turns especially. It turned out to be the front wheel bearing. Not an easy DIY job & it also ain't a cheap part. But hell...it lasted 150K miles, what could I ask for...

I thought it was brake pads at first because the axles had recently been replaced.

Anyway, about the boot, replace both axles. They're relatively cheap & labor isn't bad either. Do both cause if one boot is ripped, the other is on borrowed time. You can probably wait till you get the $ to do it but it needs to be done....sooner than later.

Oh yeah...to another post.... I30Ds is right about miles. 157K miles here & it still whips ***. No major repairs, only minor maintenance. I'm probably going to get another 30K miles from it easily and look for something else....I'm certainly going to miss it.

Latrtak, for that shudder, look into cleaning out the throttle body (just don't make the same mistake I did with the MAF) and you might also need to have the throttle position sensor adjusted. Of course, look at the tranny fluid too, get it flushed if you don't think it's been done & re-assess afterwards.

Another member here tore down a VQ motor and the major bearings, tolerances and internals were still well within spec at close to 200K miles. Their thread can probably be searched for the details but it was awhile back.

 

Just a note, that power steering one is a royal pita and sure can take more than an hour But I really only wanted to add, get the belts from nissan, they are high quality and priced right at or cheaper than some of the aftermarket ones out there.

 

the links don't seem to work right... anyone else noticed that?

 

Fixed.

10char

 

Thanks for the tip.

However, I did find this TSB...

http://www.infinitihelp.com/Ownershi.../ITB98-064.htm

That is almost exactly like my I30. Only real difference is the range of speeds on mine is higher (probably doesn't start until close to 50 MPH, and keeps occuring until the low 60s - above 65 MPH, it never happens). That's a big thing I hadn't really noticed when I made the post - it only happens within a certain rough MPH range. An important distinction I think, heh.

The ECM I can get for about $150. Seems like it is worth doing, right? But, I'd like to check and make sure my ECM isn't already the new one which is supposed to resolve the problem. Can anyone tell me how to access it? I gather it is through the center dash - is this something I can do myself?

 

Hi Guys,

I'm loving my I35, but frankly the stock fog lights suck. What have you guys done to improve them?

Is it as simple as a bulb swap and re-aiming or do I need a HID conversion, something nice and low on the kelvin scale.

Also, is it possible to rewire the Fogs to come on with the Daytime Running Lights?

Thanks

 

LartraK,
Yes. It's easy. You can access the ECM from behind the dash. It sits on the "hump" behind the lower dash & ventilation plumbing. From the passenger side, remove the plastic trim pice & you'll see the connector to the ECM being held in by a single bolt. Remove the bolt & the connectors all come out in one unit.

(I don't think the PCM is the issue though. If it were, i think you'd have other issues that were more obvious ...and maybe not including this one. I'm thinking TPS adjustment.)

Before removing the old one completely though, I would just connect the new one to harness and let it sit un-mounted until you know it fixes the issue.

(That part is easy at least.) If it does fix the issue, I'm not sure of what it will take to remove the old PCM but I imagine that there's a couple of bolts holding it in place & that's it.

 

Thanks for the help. What do you make of the TSB I linked to then? I was theorizing perhaps something goes out of whack eventually on some I30s, and they may just be updating the ECM's logic to work around it. Is a certain MPH range (in this case, 50ish to 62ish)consistent with TPS problems? I'm not that well-informed here, but in the other cases I've read it seemed to be an "always" type of thing with the TPS... I'm sure you know better than I though. I've got a free inspection coupon from a local mechanic, maybe I'll see if they can look into it.

Funny thing, if I were back where I used to live in Michigan, I'd probably barely notice this... I was either driving 40-45, or 75+ almost all the time.

Damn slow Missouri highways....

 

So I have that dash kit purchased from Sy for an '00 i30. I noticed that a double din or even a single din cage doenst quite fit as it should with that dash kit. So how did you guys get around this? Did you just leave out the cage completely? One last thing, if i go for a single din, which metra kit is for the pocket?
Any ideas are welcome.

Thanks

 

Is there an install write-up on how to install the A32 Cefiro 1-piece headlights on a 97' I30???

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=314078
http://www.redlinemax.com/3/CefiroWriteup.htm

 

Lartak,
My experience with a TPS issue was limited to a "lurch" in shifting from 1-2 or 2-3 under light acceleration. It never threw a code and it ALWAYS happened. An adjustment at the dealer solved it and it has not given a problem since.

That's not to say that your issue isn't TPS related, just my experience.

So I'm stuck at what your symptons indicate may be wrong. Maybe Mike (I30DS) can chime in?

I'm guessing you've done the normal stuff like changed fuel filter, tranny fluid & have fairly new plugs in it....but none of those things by themselves would cause exactly the issue you're describing. Truthfully, I would take it in (yes, the stealership) and make a decision to fix it myself based on their assessment. I'm biased though...they give me a loaner G35 every time and it sure beats my guessing at what the issue is...

 

bolt on.

 

Just picked up an 02 I35. I need new tires and would like to smooth out the ride. Could the current roughish ride be attributable to my current worn tires? Would new tires help this problem? If so, is there an alternative size of tire that would help more? Thanks for the help.

 

You can keep the OEM size of 215/55/17, or get 225/50/17, or even 235/45/17. The OEM tires are horrible, and new tires depending on all season or summer will drastically improve the ride.

Also, our cars are notorious for needing to replace front suspension items, such as tie rods, ball joints, sway bar endlinks...etc. Take it to a mechanic and have him check it out.