NOOBIES: The "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread...
#201
Don't know yet,havent been able to measure it. But,I measure valve (lash)?,sorry I don't speak fluent English, and I found that I need to adjust them,For example,there were many valves that had over 0.4,or under 0.15.
Could that solve the problem? and to the real question,how to check if my valve timing is correctly set?I still have my valve covers off,so if someone could like tell me which valves should be opened or closed or opening or closing,when cylinder number one is at its TDC of its compression stroke. It would make sense that there is something wrong.
Could that solve the problem? and to the real question,how to check if my valve timing is correctly set?I still have my valve covers off,so if someone could like tell me which valves should be opened or closed or opening or closing,when cylinder number one is at its TDC of its compression stroke. It would make sense that there is something wrong.
Having the valve covers off by themselves, does not really assist in checking the timing. Once again, this is an area of the VQ motor that is maintenance free, since it has a timing chain instead of a timing belt. I seriously doubt the motor is not timed properly.
#202
The valves are not adjustable on the VQ30DE. If the gap size is not in spec, then the shims must be replaced... but that would be the first time I've ever heard of a VQ needing this done. How many miles does the engine have? Even if the engine had some valve lash, it would not be causing your problem.
Having the valve covers off by themselves, does not really assist in checking the timing. Once again, this is an area of the VQ motor that is maintenance free, since it has a timing chain instead of a timing belt. I seriously doubt the motor is not timed properly.
Having the valve covers off by themselves, does not really assist in checking the timing. Once again, this is an area of the VQ motor that is maintenance free, since it has a timing chain instead of a timing belt. I seriously doubt the motor is not timed properly.
Well,the engine was opened and some new parts changed,like piston rings and all bearings. So if the mechanic messed up with the shimcups. well,anyway I need to adjust them now. And also at the same time check the timing,as I am not so confident anymore that everything is done as it should be.
#203
i ve been hearing about selonoids or solonoids in the transmission and causing it to shift hard. Well my i30 shift a lil when shifting to second, and i was wondering if this is the problam. and also today when i was slowing down the rpm jus when up and den jus drop and i felt a lil kick.
also when i put my car on to a gear (an auto tranny) like D or R the rpm jump like 0200k and drops. is dat normal i have to get it checked?
also when i put my car on to a gear (an auto tranny) like D or R the rpm jump like 0200k and drops. is dat normal i have to get it checked?
#204
Dine,
There is a procedure to adjust the throttle position sensor. PM me with your e-mail & I'll send it along. I put it in a Word document.
It may or may not solve it, but all you need is a multi meter & a phillips screwdriver.
Otherwise, someone may have the link to the procedure ( I can't find it again).
There is a procedure to adjust the throttle position sensor. PM me with your e-mail & I'll send it along. I put it in a Word document.
It may or may not solve it, but all you need is a multi meter & a phillips screwdriver.
Otherwise, someone may have the link to the procedure ( I can't find it again).
#205
Dine,
There is a procedure to adjust the throttle position sensor. PM me with your e-mail & I'll send it along. I put it in a Word document.
It may or may not solve it, but all you need is a multi meter & a phillips screwdriver.
Otherwise, someone may have the link to the procedure ( I can't find it again).
There is a procedure to adjust the throttle position sensor. PM me with your e-mail & I'll send it along. I put it in a Word document.
It may or may not solve it, but all you need is a multi meter & a phillips screwdriver.
Otherwise, someone may have the link to the procedure ( I can't find it again).
#206
yeah i already have another question my car has the non HID lights and i want new headlights and mostly new foglights. for fogs i want yellow bulbs and for headlights i want very slightly blue white lights that will actually light up the road more. any recomendations? ( i dont have money for HID kits)
#207
I've got a problem on my 2001 I30. I have the error code of P0171 system too lean Bank 1. A few weeks back I had an issue of P0140 (I think) that was for rear O2 sensor no activity. On my scan tool I noticed that both downstream sensors were bad. I changed them both and then a week later this P0171 code comes up. No more codes about the O2 sensors so I think I'm okay there.
Here is what I have done so far to troubleshoot my P0171 System too lean Bank 1:
Using cans of starter fluid and carb cleaner I sprayed every vacuum hose and sprayed around the intake manifold to try and determine if I have a vacuum leak. I used one can of each with no increase in idle speed. This has worked for me in the past. On the turbo car I can pressurize the intake and listen for leaks, but that adapter will not fit on this intake tubing. Is this test of spraying the carb cleaner good enough??
Removed the air intake temp sensor and using the CRC maf/mas cleaner spray clean the body of the sensor. This spray is safe to use on plastic. I was pretty greasy and dirty.
Removed the Maf/mas and cleaned that as well with the spray. This was not bad at all.
Changed the air filter and wiped any kind of gunk buildup in the airbox.
Had a new OEM pcv valve so I threw that on (not so much for this problem, but I was there).
I've been through several tanks of gas so I am ruling out bad gas.
I can't put a screwdriver on the bank 1 injectors (closest to the firewall) to see if they are working because of the intake/plenum. All injectors are working for Bank 2. They are easy to get to.
Any help is appreciated.
Here is what I have done so far to troubleshoot my P0171 System too lean Bank 1:
Using cans of starter fluid and carb cleaner I sprayed every vacuum hose and sprayed around the intake manifold to try and determine if I have a vacuum leak. I used one can of each with no increase in idle speed. This has worked for me in the past. On the turbo car I can pressurize the intake and listen for leaks, but that adapter will not fit on this intake tubing. Is this test of spraying the carb cleaner good enough??
Removed the air intake temp sensor and using the CRC maf/mas cleaner spray clean the body of the sensor. This spray is safe to use on plastic. I was pretty greasy and dirty.
Removed the Maf/mas and cleaned that as well with the spray. This was not bad at all.
Changed the air filter and wiped any kind of gunk buildup in the airbox.
Had a new OEM pcv valve so I threw that on (not so much for this problem, but I was there).
I've been through several tanks of gas so I am ruling out bad gas.
I can't put a screwdriver on the bank 1 injectors (closest to the firewall) to see if they are working because of the intake/plenum. All injectors are working for Bank 2. They are easy to get to.
Any help is appreciated.
#208
Can you pull those plugs to see how they compare to the other bank?
I'm wondering if the seals around the spark plugs are compromised causing oil to get inside the spark plug hole and foul the connection at the plug-->coil pack.
I'm wondering if the seals around the spark plugs are compromised causing oil to get inside the spark plug hole and foul the connection at the plug-->coil pack.
#209
Seems like a good place to start. I'll dig into my service manual and see what I need to pull off to get to the plugs.
If I have to pull of the plenum (if there is one-I've only been under the hood for a few minutes), should I replace the plenum gasket, or is it re-usable?
If I have to pull of the plenum (if there is one-I've only been under the hood for a few minutes), should I replace the plenum gasket, or is it re-usable?
#210
The only cover you need to take off for the front bank is the plastic trim piece that is secured by several allen bolts. It's probably got the Infiniti logo on it. The spark plugs are run by individual coil packs, (so don't go looking for a distributor). Each plug is "fed" by a plastic coupling (coil pack assembly) that is bolted to the engine. Be careful with the coil packs, they are expensive.
Of course, I'm walking you through the least invasive (easiest) side to get to in order to cause the least amount of headache. The back bank is tougher to access.
Unfortunately, this may be a simple case of bad coil packs...and you'll need to replace some or all of them. Fortunately, it is a DIY job if you have some patience.
In fact...seeing that you have a 2001, I'm less leaning towards the leaking valve cover gasket around the spark plug holes (not the plenum gasket) as you probably don't even have over 90K mikes on it. So I'm thinking coil packs are the next most popular item to fail on that year/mileage, provided you have no other codes. I'm not aware of how to test to make sure they are bad before replacing them...
I understand a design change after the '98 models made the coil packs less durable. (Mine are still good after 160K miles.)
Of course, I'm walking you through the least invasive (easiest) side to get to in order to cause the least amount of headache. The back bank is tougher to access.
Unfortunately, this may be a simple case of bad coil packs...and you'll need to replace some or all of them. Fortunately, it is a DIY job if you have some patience.
In fact...seeing that you have a 2001, I'm less leaning towards the leaking valve cover gasket around the spark plug holes (not the plenum gasket) as you probably don't even have over 90K mikes on it. So I'm thinking coil packs are the next most popular item to fail on that year/mileage, provided you have no other codes. I'm not aware of how to test to make sure they are bad before replacing them...
I understand a design change after the '98 models made the coil packs less durable. (Mine are still good after 160K miles.)
#211
Okay I have an update...I didn't plan on working on the car, but this morning none of my gauges were working. I pulled it in and got it warm and they started working. It was about 10 degrees F the last few days so I'm thinking they were just too cold, or maybe there was some moisture back there that froze??
I checked the color of the plugs as advised and both banks appear to be similar in color and wear. The manual recomends changing them at 105,000, and I am only at 80,000. I don't plan on changing them out just yet. I don't notice any hesitation or missing so I don't see any point in changing them early.
I looked at the service manual and didn't see a procedure to test the coil packs, so I'll put that test on hold for now.
I noticed that one of my rear O2 sensor connectors (for bank 1- which is the bank that is running lean-P0171) was not "clicked". Apparently I installed the wrong one when I changed out both rear O2's a few weeks back. I called up the store and there is 2 part numbers, I was just given the wrong one.
I removed the wrong O2 sensor, and I can get the new one tomorrow. This could be a part of the error code becuase in the factory manual it says that these connectors must be locked securely, or the ECM could spit out a trouble code.
The last thing is I found a very loose hose clamp securing the air tube onto the throttle body (I could spin it by hand). This is after the mas, so it could have been the leak that the ECM was seeing. I just wonder why when I sprayed the starter fluid around that area it was not picked up .
One possibility was that when I was changing the air filter I MIGHT have loosened it because I started tearing apart the entire air box assembly before I realized that I only needed to remove 2 clips to change the air filter . I don't remember if I loosened this clamp, so I guess I'll never know.
So as I stand now I tightened the clamp and I will install the correct O2 sensor tomorrow. I will then clear all the codes. Hopefully this will be it for a while....
I checked the color of the plugs as advised and both banks appear to be similar in color and wear. The manual recomends changing them at 105,000, and I am only at 80,000. I don't plan on changing them out just yet. I don't notice any hesitation or missing so I don't see any point in changing them early.
I looked at the service manual and didn't see a procedure to test the coil packs, so I'll put that test on hold for now.
I noticed that one of my rear O2 sensor connectors (for bank 1- which is the bank that is running lean-P0171) was not "clicked". Apparently I installed the wrong one when I changed out both rear O2's a few weeks back. I called up the store and there is 2 part numbers, I was just given the wrong one.
I removed the wrong O2 sensor, and I can get the new one tomorrow. This could be a part of the error code becuase in the factory manual it says that these connectors must be locked securely, or the ECM could spit out a trouble code.
The last thing is I found a very loose hose clamp securing the air tube onto the throttle body (I could spin it by hand). This is after the mas, so it could have been the leak that the ECM was seeing. I just wonder why when I sprayed the starter fluid around that area it was not picked up .
One possibility was that when I was changing the air filter I MIGHT have loosened it because I started tearing apart the entire air box assembly before I realized that I only needed to remove 2 clips to change the air filter . I don't remember if I loosened this clamp, so I guess I'll never know.
So as I stand now I tightened the clamp and I will install the correct O2 sensor tomorrow. I will then clear all the codes. Hopefully this will be it for a while....
#212
ay your car looks real clean. I have a 99 black on black I30t 5 speed. lookin to sell if you know anyone interested... i only asked cause you seemed to have found yours for the right reasons. the smart ones. lol.
#215
Well my check engine light just came on. Same code as before, a P0171 system too lean Bank 1.
I pulled the accordian tube from the mas off and looked at it hoping to find a split or tear, but it was fine.
I really need a way to pressure test, can anyone point me to a picture of one setup? I imagine the supercharged guys must have one? Otherwise I'll just try and find some pvc caps and put an air hose adapter on and a pressure gauge.
I'm kind of ruling out ignition related stuff (coils, plugs), because I THINK if they were bad I would be running rich because I wouldn't be lighting off the fuel in the combustion chamber. I'm running lean so I think I'm burning off all the fuel in there, even though I have no way to know if I am getting enough fuel??
I'd love to be able to test the rear injectors, but they are buried. I ran a bottle of gas treatment cleaner just today, but I know that won't help.
It could be my front O2 sensor (s) also because I have changed out both rear O2's, but I have not touched the fronts. I can watch them on my scan tool to see if they are behaving.
Does anyone know of a decent fuel pressure testing tool that fits our cars? I'd hate to cut into the tubing just to check the pressure from the pump.
I'd also like to check the mas voltages, but the manual gives instructions using the consult (obviously I don't have that).
I pulled the accordian tube from the mas off and looked at it hoping to find a split or tear, but it was fine.
I really need a way to pressure test, can anyone point me to a picture of one setup? I imagine the supercharged guys must have one? Otherwise I'll just try and find some pvc caps and put an air hose adapter on and a pressure gauge.
I'm kind of ruling out ignition related stuff (coils, plugs), because I THINK if they were bad I would be running rich because I wouldn't be lighting off the fuel in the combustion chamber. I'm running lean so I think I'm burning off all the fuel in there, even though I have no way to know if I am getting enough fuel??
I'd love to be able to test the rear injectors, but they are buried. I ran a bottle of gas treatment cleaner just today, but I know that won't help.
It could be my front O2 sensor (s) also because I have changed out both rear O2's, but I have not touched the fronts. I can watch them on my scan tool to see if they are behaving.
Does anyone know of a decent fuel pressure testing tool that fits our cars? I'd hate to cut into the tubing just to check the pressure from the pump.
I'd also like to check the mas voltages, but the manual gives instructions using the consult (obviously I don't have that).
#216
Hy guys,
i was on stillen.com and found this:
http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?id=DCCRBUSB01&c=SU
Its a FSTB for the 2oo3 I30, my question is will this FSTB fit my EUspec I30?
Hope u can help me out.
BIG THX
i was on stillen.com and found this:
http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?id=DCCRBUSB01&c=SU
Its a FSTB for the 2oo3 I30, my question is will this FSTB fit my EUspec I30?
Hope u can help me out.
BIG THX
#217
Hy guys,
i was on stillen.com and found this:
http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?id=DCCRBUSB01&c=SU
Its a FSTB for the 2oo3 I30, my question is will this FSTB fit my EUspec I30?
Hope u can help me out.
BIG THX
i was on stillen.com and found this:
http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?id=DCCRBUSB01&c=SU
Its a FSTB for the 2oo3 I30, my question is will this FSTB fit my EUspec I30?
Hope u can help me out.
BIG THX
#218
what is a good fstb for a 2k i30 ?. i have been reading 5th gen and i30 forums and they all just confused the hell outta me so can any of you guys tell me a good quality product for a reasonable price and ebay is not a option for me.
#220
Does anyone know how much of a difference there is between White QT1 and White QX1? I'm thinking of getting I35 side sills for my White QT1 00 I30 but they they only come in QX1. For some reason the 00-01 Side Sills are way more expensive "got quoted $1000 for both". I wonder if there would be much difference in color if I got the QX1 for my QT1car?
#221
Has anyone tried to install the MTX RE-q to their factory system to put in a aftermarket sub/amp? Im trying to figure out where the thing hooks up to, if wires need splicing, and if it's better left for a professional. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
#222
HELP!!! I just bought a new starter for my 1998 infiniti i30 and i tried to take the old starter out but the second bolt wont even move. I had all my friends try to help me out but none of them could get it to unscrew. It seems to be screwed on very tight. Can some one give me any ideas on how to get it off! I miss driving my i30 =/
Please any help is appreciated. Thanks
Please any help is appreciated. Thanks
#223
HELP!!! I just bought a new starter for my 1998 infiniti i30 and i tried to take the old starter out but the second bolt wont even move. I had all my friends try to help me out but none of them could get it to unscrew. It seems to be screwed on very tight. Can some one give me any ideas on how to get it off! I miss driving my i30 =/
Please any help is appreciated. Thanks
Please any help is appreciated. Thanks
Just a thought
#230
#231
You have to splice into the wires from the factory system. I took spliced into the wires where the bose amp is. Just find out what each wire color leads to, then wire it up to the re-q following the wiring instructions that came with the Re-q. Then after that, mount it, plug it in and you got bass up high.
#232
#234
#238
#239
Some parts on our cars are $$$ to fix if broken out of warranty. If you are a DIY sort of guy, then extended is not worth it. If you are a my car is broken, fix it kind of guy, then yes for warranty.
#240
Well thanks for the info.
EDIT: Are there any Infiniti certified mechanics from Chicago area here ?
Last edited by CrusinI35; 04-03-2008 at 06:20 PM.