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Old 10-21-2015, 11:01 AM   #321
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Car still shines up great! I'm about to go through another suspension revamp myself...then motor build
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Old 12-09-2015, 10:29 AM   #322
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Hey 95maxrider, I autoX a 1995 Maxima in Pittsburgh and am a big follower of your thread. Can you tell me more about your welded subframe connectors and point me to a thread in that direction? The more time I spend on my Maxima the less I'm interested in getting something newer. -paul
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Old 12-09-2015, 10:50 AM   #323
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Hey 95maxrider, I autoX a 1995 Maxima in Pittsburgh and am a big follower of your thread. Can you tell me more about your welded subframe connectors and point me to a thread in that direction? The more time I spend on my Maxima the less I'm interested in getting something newer. -paul
Hi Paul, the subframe connectors were made by Warpspeed 10+ years ago and I'm sure are no longer in production. I believe another company made their own version for a while, but again, I'm pretty sure they're also no longer available. They were the first thing I put on the car and despite them putting me in a stupid prepared class for SCCA, I will not remove them because of how much they improve the ride quality. It's the same reason why I had fender braces made. This platform really benefits from added rigidity, and I just love both of them. Since a 4th gen can't really be competitive in any SCCA class, prepared or not, I would recommend trying to find a used set or have some made if you're really keen on keeping the car. I know how you feel about not wanting to get a new car; after 12+ years of development, I really love everything about my car, and it makes me happy every time I drive it. I'm glad to hear there's someone else out there auto-xing a Maxima. You should come down to the DC region for an SCCA Solo event next year! Thanks for reading my thread, and good luck!
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Old 12-09-2015, 12:17 PM   #324
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Passing through.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ugufru View Post
Hey 95maxrider, I autoX a 1995 Maxima in Pittsburgh and am a big follower of your thread. Can you tell me more about your welded subframe connectors and point me to a thread in that direction? The more time I spend on my Maxima the less I'm interested in getting something newer. -paul
If you have heard of a company called Ultra Racing they are Malaysian based company that makes stuff for the A32 and A33 chassis so they are worth taking a look at.

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Hi Paul, the subframe connectors were made by Warpspeed 10+ years ago and I'm sure are no longer in production. I believe another company made their own version for a while, but again, I'm pretty sure they're also no longer available. They were the first thing I put on the car and despite them putting me in a stupid prepared class for SCCA, I will not remove them because of how much they improve the ride quality. It's the same reason why I had fender braces made. This platform really benefits from added rigidity, and I just love both of them. Since a 4th gen can't really be competitive in any SCCA class, prepared or not, I would recommend trying to find a used set or have some made if you're really keen on keeping the car. I know how you feel about not wanting to get a new car; after 12+ years of development, I really love everything about my car, and it makes me happy every time I drive it. I'm glad to hear there's someone else out there auto-xing a Maxima. You should come down to the DC region for an SCCA Solo event next year! Thanks for reading my thread, and good luck!
One of the issues I am going through is if i want to keep a 4th gen even as a DD. My turbo car is likely going nowhere but especially with the price of "newer" cars coming so far down. I've been shopping around and let say you are looking at 350Zs, they can be picked up now in decent shape for around $4,000, four thousand dollars. Seriously. To top it off even cars with in our class of cars or the sport compacts of the world they are becoming so fast. Laugh at that cobalt or neon if you want to, it will eat you for breakfast lunch and dinner if you are not paying attention. It is almost depressing. But i was looking at cars to purchase for a DD here is the list, mind you all of them are under 5k

R53 Mini Cooper S
E46 330i
350z&G35
RX8*

Thats just off the top of my head. Stock all of those cars would pretty much put a 4th gen so far in its place its not even funny. then the load of 80-90s japanese sports cars: MR2, 300zxs, RX7s, Celica All tracs, Supras. And then i saw this and almost **** myself:

https://raleigh.craigslist.org/ctd/5351531359.html

In case the link doesn't work that is a Mercedes E55 AMG for under $10,000. all of my mods add up to double the price of that car and i can't even compete with it.
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Old 12-10-2015, 03:35 PM   #325
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https://raleigh.craigslist.org/ctd/5351531359.html

In case the link doesn't work that is a Mercedes E55 AMG for under $10,000. all of my mods add up to double the price of that car and i can't even compete with it.
Maintenance is a b*tch tho....

Like basic chit, control arms, brake rotors, etc. That wallet will be hurtin quick!

Boss just has to replace teh Rotors on his S63 lets just say he coulda brought a 4th gen.

And the mods....

Nice fckn car tho, motor and tranny is solid from what I've seen.
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Old 12-10-2015, 04:03 PM   #326
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Maintenance is a b*tch tho....

Like basic chit, control arms, brake rotors, etc. That wallet will be hurtin quick!

Boss just has to replace teh Rotors on his S63 lets just say he coulda brought a 4th gen.

And the mods....

Nice fckn car tho, motor and tranny is solid from what I've seen.
You buy that car, you better have your own set of tools to maintain it. And if he took an S63 even to an indy to have brakes done, LOL keep the astroglide ready. Our 545i, this is a 2004 car not even an M if i took it to our indy he charges $1200 for brakes, one thousand two hundred dollars, yea i did the **** myself for $200. Better be ready to **** up dem manicured nails or have a huge bank account for das auto.
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Old 12-11-2015, 06:44 AM   #327
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You buy that car, you better have your own set of tools to maintain it. And if he took an S63 even to an indy to have brakes done, LOL keep the astroglide ready. Our 545i, this is a 2004 car not even an M if i took it to our indy he charges $1200 for brakes, one thousand two hundred dollars, yea i did the **** myself for $200. Better be ready to **** up dem manicured nails or have a huge bank account for das auto.
No, we have a mechanic on duty here, labor was "free"

I'm just talking about the parts, not P&L. He found rotors w/ 2k miles on em and still had to drop a 4th gen on em

But I digress.

95max, what is your rear brake setup? Your thread is too epic.
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Old 12-21-2015, 06:16 PM   #328
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The story of my beater, a 93 SE 5 speed, can be viewed here!

Here's a teaser

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Old 12-21-2015, 06:54 PM   #329
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The story of my beater, a 93 SE 5 speed, can be viewed here!

Here's a teaser

Burnout vids or ban lol......car looks good Nick!
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Old 01-26-2016, 07:32 AM   #330
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No, we have a mechanic on duty here, labor was "free"

I'm just talking about the parts, not P&L. He found rotors w/ 2k miles on em and still had to drop a 4th gen on em

But I digress.

95max, what is your rear brake setup? Your thread is too epic.
I got the Fastbrakes rear BBK using stock calipers and 12.3" Accord rotors. It was a very nice upgrade and worth every penny! However there was some funny business regarding where/how many washers to use, so if you do it, find my post about my install to get details on how to do it properly.

========================================

I put together a full mod list last year when I was writing my little article for NICO, and I don't think I ever posted it up in here. So here's a quick reference of every mod on the car:

Engine/Trans
-2002/03 Maxima 3.5 motor, no SS IM mod
-K&N filter, velocity stack
-2001/02 Pathfinder 70mm TB, custom adapter and throttle cable bracket from sicivic89
-NWP thermal intake manifold spacers
-NWP Block off plate
-Nistune ECU, 7k RPM rev-limit
-Cattman headers
-Resonated test pipe
-2.5” Budget resonated b-pipe
-2004 G35 sedan muffler
-Aeromotive AFPR, fuel pressure gauge
-Quaife differential in rebuilt/refreshed transmission
-2000/01 DEK Maxima clutch and flywheel
-97-99 Maxima shifter with 1” cut out
-Sola Luna weighted metal shift ****
-Custom aluminum radiator brackets
-Put down 210 whp on old DEK motor
-Put down about 237/247 on the 3.5

Suspension
-BC Racing coilovers 9k front, 8k rear and valved to match dampers
-2.5* camber front (maxed out camber bolts), custom 4.7* caster (up from 2.2* stock, drilled new holes in front strut towers, rotated coilovers 90*), 0.1* toe out
-Corner balanced, 60.0% F, 40.0% R, 50/50 left to right
-3130 lbs w/full tank of gas, empty trunk, full interior
-2J Racing converted to panhard rod rear suspension from a Scott-Russel linkage
-Progress RSB at max stiff
-Energy Suspension poly bushings for sway bar frame mounts, sway bar end links, control arms, cross member and F&R motor mounts
-Poly side/trans mounts
-Delrin front subframe bushings/collars
-Super Pro poly rear trailing arm bushings

Brakes
-Wilwood 4 piston front calipers with 12.9” 2-piece rotors w/Wilwood Polymatrix E pads
-Fastbrakes rear 12.3” BBK with stock calipers and redrilled Accord rotors, old Carbotech AX-6 pads
-Track pads are Carbotech XP-8
-SS lines
-ATE racing fluid

Chassis-
-Warpspeed Stage 1+2 Subframe connectors (welded)
-Custom fender braces, welded to chassis
-Stillen RSTB (front won't fit over 3.5 IM)
-No sunroof (stock)
-97-99 Maxima SE steering rack, B15 SE-R rack coming soon
-NWP engine torque link
-Aluminum steering column bushing
-Relocated battery to trunk, 0-gauge wire
-95 Maxima aluminum front bumper support (-30 lbs)
-Rolled front fenders, rolled and slightly pulled rear fenders

Cooling
-Mishimoto radiator w/19 psi cap, Toyota red coolant
-Racer Parts Wholesale 24 row oil cooler with -10 AN lines
-Derale power steering cooler

Other Fluids
-Mobil 1 Synthetic 5w-30
-Amsoil MT fluid

Exterior
-The Retrofit Source FX-R projectors w/ 4.3k HID bulbs in Cefiro headlights
-TRS Blazer fog light projectors, 3k HID bulbs, independent fog light rewire mod
-All front lighting housings blacked out
-1998/99 I30 tail lights (heated up with heat gun, pressed center section together to fix common leak issue)
-35% tint
-I30t spoiler
-Painted grille black
-Black OEM mirrors
-Removed three bars front lower front grille, filled, sanded, painted
-Garage door front lip
-All chrome window trim blacked out
-All original paint (except spoiler and some touch up work on bumpers)
-Nissan Murano windshield washer nozzles
-350Z horns

Interior
-Recaro Speed seat w/gray alcantara center section, CG Locks
-Gunmetal aluminum dash trim, matching aluminum lower door panels
-Stock light gray leather (less than 5% of A32s)
-Sparco steering wheel
-350Z aluminum pedals, dead pedal
-Custom gray alcantara door panels
-Matching gray alcantara shift boots w/black stitching by Redline Goods
-Redline Goods black leather arm rest with some extra foam cushion inside
-Techtom MDM-100 (Set to display speed and water temp since the smaller steering wheel cuts off view of 20-120 mph)
-95/96 Maxima SE gauge cluster, gunmetal aluminum gauge rings
-Innovate Motorsports LC-2 Wideband O2 Sensor
-Innovate Motorsports MTX-D Oil Pressure & Oil Temperature Gauge
-99 I30 Limited aluminum door scuff plates
-All interior lights are white LEDs (Gauge cluster, door switches, HVAC display, dome lights, door light, etc.)
-97-99 Maxima flip-over cup holder in center console
-Fuzzy pillars (stock)
-Replaced cracking chrome interior door handles

Stereo
-Premier DEH-490IB head unit (4V pre-out)
-Focal P165V15 6.5” front speakers
-Hertz DCX 165 2-way rear speakers
-Subaru Audio PVC custom speaker adapters
-12” JL W6 subwoofer, Sonic Electronix 1.15 sealed box
-Boston Acoustics GT2 (125w RMS x 2 for fronts)
-Alpine MRP-M500 (500w x 1 for sub)
-Clifford RS3.5 alarm with remote start
-MDF trunk floor with bracket to hold sub box in place
-“Big 3” 0-gauge wire upgrade
-12g speaker wire
-E-Dead sound deadening in the trunk, front doors and rear deck
-Frost King insulation in the front doors and other areas
-E-Dead sound deadening on front fender liners

Wheels/tires
-17x8 Enkei RPM2 with 245/45/17 Michelin Pilot Super Sports
-17x8.5 Enkei RPF1 with 245/40/17 Hoosier A6
-ARP extended wheel studs
-2J Racing 10mm front, 15mm rear wheel spacers

Maintenance
-Replaced windshield
-Replaced radiator core support
-Touch up paint to bumpers
-DS front door hinges replaced due to door sagging
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Old 01-26-2016, 07:37 AM   #331
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So my E28 rally-x car got smashed by an 18 wheeler a few months ago, and I replaced it with an E36 M3
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Old 08-19-2016, 09:48 PM   #332
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Wow great thread first time seeing it

Doing something different but still a lot of work.

https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...-clean-up.html

Last edited by krismax; 08-19-2016 at 09:51 PM.
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Old 08-20-2016, 05:39 AM   #333
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Wow great thread first time seeing it

Doing something different but still a lot of work.

https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...-clean-up.html
Thanks! I've barely driven the car at all over the last year due to lots of oil and trans fluid leaks, but once the M3 makes it through a few races without breaking I'll be bringing the I30 into the garage to do the rear main seal, upper and lower oil pan gaskets, and reseal the transmission case. Hopefully I'll be able to do that within the next month and I can finally start driving this thing again! I'm getting a little tired of the 3rd gen with no stereo and no AC.....
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Old 02-06-2017, 05:11 PM   #334
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Thanks! I've barely driven the car at all over the last year due to lots of oil and trans fluid leaks, but once the M3 makes it through a few races without breaking I'll be bringing the I30 into the garage to do the rear main seal, upper and lower oil pan gaskets, and reseal the transmission case. Hopefully I'll be able to do that within the next month and I can finally start driving this thing again! I'm getting a little tired of the 3rd gen with no stereo and no AC.....
Aaaaaaand some five months later I still haven't had time to work on the I30. I'm getting close though! I have all the parts, I have a plan, I just need two solid days to get this job done right. And no other cars that have more pressing needs. In the mean time, I'll just have to stare longingly out the window....

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Old 02-07-2017, 12:44 PM   #335
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Get it done!
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Old 02-08-2017, 08:14 AM   #336
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Car looks great as always!
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Old 02-14-2017, 12:28 PM   #337
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Nothing big to report yet, but I'm getting ready for the big tear down. Maybe this weekend! In the mean time, I installed a brand new $13 ABS sensor that replaced when I was working on my PS axle some two years ago. It certainly looks different than OEM, but it seems to work just fine! Normally I would have bought it from RockAuto or something, but they wanted $100+. I found this one, and plenty of others, on Ebay for less than $15! Score!





I also sucked out the fluid from the clutch reservoir and put in fresh stuff. A full flush is coming later when I have someone to help!



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Old 02-27-2017, 12:30 PM   #338
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The I30 is finally under the knife and things are going well enough! Before I get into the heavy stuff, let's start with a small project: installing a new steering wheel. The old Sparco now lives in the M3, and since I loved the design so much, I wanted to get the same thing for the I30 again. The wheel is the Sparco L505. They must have revised it a tad, as the old center section was silver, and the new one is black. Still though, same great shape and thickness, and new alcantara sure is smooth!





Much more later
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Old 02-27-2017, 01:04 PM   #339
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constantly impressing ! nice
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Old 02-28-2017, 05:35 AM   #340
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Clean cockpit there.
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Old 03-11-2017, 05:28 AM   #341
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***I need some help!***

So I'm in the middle of doing the RMS on my car, and I just realized I may have made a mistake. I'm using a 5 speed from a 4th gen along with a clutch and flywheel from a 5th gen (2000-2001). The motor is mostly reassembled, and the trans is back in the car, and I just realized that the new throw out bearing I installed was for a 4th gen, and not a 5th gen. Can anyone definitively tell me if this is going to be a problem, or if I need to drop everything again and install a TOB from a 5th gen?

Here's the picture that got me thinking I might have a problem. Old (5th gen) on left, new (4th gen) on the right. Notice the length of the inner sleeve appears to be longer in the 5th gen TOB. How screwed am I?



Also, in case anyone knows the answer, I also have a mystery part related to the alternator that I can't figure out what to do with. So the alternator's top attachment point is this little bracket. Notice the little 1/4" washer to the right of the bracket:



I knew that was there when I was taking things apart, but when I finally dropped the alternator, another one of the 1/4" washers fell to the ground and I can't figure out where it's supposed to go:



Can anyone give me some ideas on where this thing is supposed to go?

EDIT- I just got off the phone with the dealer who sold me all the parts and it sounds like the part numbers for 4th and 5th gen cars have been superseded to a new number, which is the part I received, so I think I'll be okay. But if you have different info, please let me know now!

Last edited by 95maxrider; 03-13-2017 at 06:59 AM.
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Old 03-13-2017, 07:04 AM   #342
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Okay, before I clog up the thread with tons of pictures, I need some help with one more item!

My new needed new crossmember bushings, so I picked up an ES set. My two rear bolts that attach the crossmember to the body are larger than stock (17mm is stock- one is 19mm the other is 24mm) because the threads got really chewed up at one point and needed to be re-threaded, but I can't see how that would matter. My problem is that when I go to tighten the bolts, the lower/outer bushing ring squishes out around the washer for each bolt.



I assembled everything in the correct order, and am nowhere near over-torquing the bolts. Why do these outer bushings keep squishing out around the washer? Anyone have any tips for me?
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Old 03-20-2017, 04:36 AM   #343
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bigger washer? smaller bushing?
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Old 03-20-2017, 07:58 AM   #344
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bigger washer? smaller bushing?
Nope, turns out the bolts need to be OEM-style with a large shoulder. My bolts, that are fully threaded, just keep tightening without ever being able to get torqued, which is why they are squishing the bushings out. After over an hour spent at Fastenall, I think I might have a solution. We shall see soon when the parts arrive!
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Old Yesterday, 07:54 AM   #345
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Ok guys, big updates are coming, but before I clog up the thread with a ton of pics, I need more help!

I just did the rear main seal, upper and lower oil pans, and resealed the transmission. Now that the car is back together, I no longer get a reading on my speedometer. The only thing I can think that would give a reading for the speedometer is the big round sensor thing that sits on the DS of the transmission, and mine is brand new and plugged in. Can anyone hazard a guess as to what I did wrong? All other sensors are working and the cars drives great.

Thanks in advance!

EDIT- Turns out I missed the little connector at the top/rear of the trans. After plugging it in my speedo works again. Success!

Last edited by 95maxrider; Today at 08:30 AM.
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