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My Massive I30 Revival and Build Thread

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Old 04-07-2017, 06:12 AM   #361
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The I30 is finally under the knife and things are going well enough! Before I get into the heavy stuff, let's start with a small project: installing a new steering wheel. The old Sparco now lives in the M3, and since I loved the design so much, I wanted to get the same thing for the I30 again. The wheel is the Sparco L505. They must have revised it a tad, as the old center section was silver, and the new one is black. Still though, same great shape and thickness, and new alcantara sure is smooth!





Much more later
How did you get your horn to work? I have an OMP wheel and the horn is well.....silent.
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Old 04-07-2017, 07:24 AM   #362
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I hate to say I told you so, but...
What, did I ever disagree with you?
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Old 04-07-2017, 07:36 AM   #363
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Aside from the never ending vibration coming from my motor, this has been the bane of my existence. For two whole years now I've driven around without a horn in my car because I could never figure out how to get one to work. I've resorted to using my high beams and my motor as makeshift horns, and neither really worked very well.

Well, good ol' Eric at Joe's Professional Auto Care got an idea one day and ran with it. He hacked apart my old clockspring, and got it down to this:




This is the connector for the clockspring. The horn wire is green under the dash, but when it reaches this connector it switches to being the brown wire.


Note the metal ring around the steering column:


See that hole in the clockspring that allows access to the metal?


A ball bearing from some small wheel bearing and a random spring


And a tube epoxied to the clockspring


You can't see it, but the spring and the ball bearing are hidden inside the tube underneath the electrical tape. The paper clip is holding them inside before installation, and the brown wire is touching the spring.


You can kind of see what's going on here


So we installed everything, pulled out the paper clip, and VIOLA, I HAVE A ****ING HORN IN MY CAR AGAIN. Damn it feels good to honk at people again! I had forgotten how nice these 350z horns sound compared to the weak/worn out I30 horns. You have no idea how nice this is after two years of not having a horn.
This is a repost of post #153 for Crusher I apparently need to re-do this since my horn no longer works...ugh.
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Old 04-07-2017, 05:18 PM   #364
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Your attention to detail is incredible! Truly inspiring. Wish I had more time to dedicate myself to my car.
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Old 04-12-2017, 07:52 PM   #365
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Hey Nick - I see you like to dissolve rust. I found muriatic to work great.

Here's a product that I use and some pictures below.

I dilute the acid with water according to directions on the label. Maybe a bit stronger but no more than 1/3 ratio.













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Old 04-13-2017, 05:42 AM   #366
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Hey Nick - I see you like to dissolve rust. I found muriatic to work great.

Here's a product that I use and some pictures below.

I dilute the acid with water according to directions on the label. Maybe a bit stronger but no more than 1/3 ratio.













Very nice, thanks for the tip! I would love to see how the two products compare. I wonder if Evapo Rust has the same active ingredient...
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Old 04-13-2017, 07:17 PM   #367
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Very nice, thanks for the tip! I would love to see how the two products compare. I wonder if Evapo Rust has the same active ingredient...
In looking at the Evapo-rust chemical ingredients, outside of the secret sauce references, it looks like a version of lye soap. Here's a video about using a lye soap dip to clean up old iron skillets. Where as a rusty part dipped in muriatic acid will fizz like an alka seltzer until the acid has dissipated or there is no more rust to dissolve.

When using muriatic acid to remove rust, I've found that I need to quickly soak the part in kerosene or carb cleaner until I start prepping it for painting or a thin film of rust will return.

It might be worth a try on a small part to get a feel for how it works. I bought the Acid Magic at Ace Hardware. IIRC is also comes in quart bottles.


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Old 04-15-2017, 09:29 PM   #368
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this is what it says on their site.

"Evapo-Rust Super Safe Rust Remover
Evapo-Rust Super Safe Rust Remover is the #1 non-toxic rust remover in America. Rust removal can take a lot of time and money but not with Evapo-Rust rust remover. A product of extensive research, Evapo-Rust rust remover is an environmentally safe, water based product that has been proven to make even deep rust disappear in minutes without scrubbing. Itís so easy to use, anyone can restore their rusted antiques, camping gear, hardware, tools, cast iron, gardening tools, BBQ grill, auto parts, even firearms to like-new condition. Evapo-Rust will not harm metals, rubber, plastic, wood, glass, PVC, Viton, most paints, most chrome, or non-rusted steel. In fact, immersing un-rusted steel in Evapo-Rust rust remover provides excellent long-term rust protection. Best of all, Evapo-Rust Super Safe Rust Remover is safe to use. Itís non-toxic, non-corrosive, and contains no acids, bases, or petroleum solvents. Evapo-Rust is also biodegradable. Evapo-Rust is the easy metal restorer thatís easy on your skin! Just soak, rinse, and reuse. Let Evapo-Rust Super Safe Rust Remover do all the work for you without having to use any gloves, masks, or protective eyewear. Evapo-Rust can be used over and over again on multiple projects. One gallon of Evapo-Rust can treat up to 300 pounds of parts. Pure Evapo-Rust can be safely poured into the city sewer. When the solution is spent the solution will turn completely black and only the iron content will dictate the disposal method. Evapo-Rust is available in quarts, gallons, 5 gallon pails, and larger for industrial accounts. Check your local store for size availability and pricing. Find us on Facebook and see all the projects people have done using Evapo-Rust!"

I like this because it is not a acid. you need no gloves or anything like that. water based.

Where do you get it??
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Old 04-15-2017, 09:39 PM   #369
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Okay, before I clog up the thread with tons of pictures, I need some help with one more item!

My new needed new crossmember bushings, so I picked up an ES set. My two rear bolts that attach the crossmember to the body are larger than stock (17mm is stock- one is 19mm the other is 24mm) because the threads got really chewed up at one point and needed to be re-threaded, but I can't see how that would matter. My problem is that when I go to tighten the bolts, the lower/outer bushing ring squishes out around the washer for each bolt.



I assembled everything in the correct order, and am nowhere near over-torquing the bolts. Why do these outer bushings keep squishing out around the washer? Anyone have any tips for me?
where to get the ES bushings? didn't know they existed
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Old 04-16-2017, 05:29 AM   #370
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where to get the ES bushings? didn't know they existed
$30 from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CNB34C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CNB34C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also have the ES motor mounts, control arm bushings, and FSB bushings.

As for the Evapo Rust, I also bought my 5 gallon bucket on Amazon for about $85, but Home Depot also carries it.
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Old 04-17-2017, 04:33 AM   #371
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Oh.

Deer.

Gawd.

This thread

The amount of work is a typical weekend for me but actually documenting and poasting it... I can't even!!!

Also, sup guyz?

Last edited by aackshun; 04-18-2017 at 03:18 AM.
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Old 04-17-2017, 09:45 AM   #372
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Oh.

Deer.

Gawd.

This thread

The amount of work is a typical weekend for me but actually documenting and poasting it... I can't even!!!

Also, sup guyz?
Sup buddy! Yeah, doing the write up for this took a few hours, but it was worth it. If I don't do this, I'll forget all the details. Being able to go back through this thread and see everything can actually be very helpful.
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Old 04-18-2017, 03:20 AM   #373
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Sup buddy! Yeah, doing the write up for this took a few hours, but it was worth it. If I don't do this, I'll forget all the details. Being able to go back through this thread and see everything can actually be very helpful.
I can see that. I almost forgot how much work went into my 03 until i bought this 02.

So you still autox or has that thing been on a road course yet?
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Old 04-18-2017, 06:55 AM   #374
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I can see that. I almost forgot how much work went into my 03 until i bought this 02.

So you still autox or has that thing been on a road course yet?
I just mounted up another used set of Hoosiers, so it will see plenty of auto-x duty this year. It's been on a road course before, and I still have my track pads, so I would like to make it to a few HPDEs this year as well. I need to make up for lost time!
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Old 04-21-2017, 08:05 AM   #375
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So for some reason I decided filling up my gas tank was a good idea last spring (even though I knew I wasn't going to be driving it soon), so I had year old gas in my tank that I wanted to remove. I tried a few times to go WOT and the car seemed to stutter a bit, so that motivated me to get the old gas out. My old hand pump (for fish tanks...) died so I picked up a better one from Home Depot for $10 along with 10' of hose.



For whatever reason, I couldn't get the hose to go to the bottom of the tank through the fill tube, so I pulled up the back seat and sucked it out through the top of the tank. With all but about a gallon of old gas out, I put in a can of Liqui Moly Valve Clean and fresh 93 octane, and was ready to roll!

Then it was on to tweaking the settings of my Innovate Motorsports oil pressure/temp gauge. You can set alarms for high temp and low pressure, and change the temperature ranges of the LEDs.

First up, I set my low pressure alarm to go off if pressure drops below 25 psi. After driving around for a week or so, I haven't seen pressure drop below 33-35 at idle, so I might raise the warning level to 30 psi.



These were the stock settings for temperature:



I wanted to know when the oil was up to operating temperature so I knew it was safe to go WOT, and after a bit of research, it seems 180* F is a safe number, so I set the yellow LEDs to begin at 180* instead of 220*. I also enabled the alarm.



Since 2008, my primary source of music in my car was my trusty 120GB Microsoft Zune. It was dead nuts reliable for 8 years, but the battery finally gave out a few months ago, so it was time to update some wiring for the stereo. The Zune had been hooked up using proprietary wiring that not only sent the signal to the HU, but also changed the unit at the same time, which was very convenient. I removed all that wiring and installed a regular 1/8" cable to the same spot in the center console for my new Fiio music player (which plays FLAC files!) and phones.

While I was back there, I wanted to tidy things up a bit. From doing the HU install in the 3rd gen, I knew that running a dedicated ground wire is important in these cars, and I wanted to make sure my HU had one. Thankfully, it did, but it was run to the metal tubing in the dash, and I wasn't sure of how great of a ground that would provide. I wanted to be extra sure, so I extended the wire and ran it to a stud around the gas pedal on the firewall.



I used my Dremel and tiny wire wheel to clean up the paint to ensure a good ground:



I then used some zip ties to tidy up the mess of wires running from the console through the firewall:



Not the greatest pic, but it gives you an idea of what the gauges look like:



Group picture time!


Last edited by 95maxrider; 04-21-2017 at 08:10 AM.
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Old 04-21-2017, 10:04 AM   #376
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With race season right around the corner, it was time to get another alignment! When I did the big job a month ago I marked the camber bolts to ensure I could put it all back together without throwing it too far out of spec. To my surprise, the car actually drove nice and straight after reassembly, so I was pretty pleased with myself! However, there were a few times when the car felt a little twitchy, so I figured an alignment was a good idea.

I went back to PTuning in Manassas, VA since they're now only about 30 minutes from my house (I moved from MD to VA about 18 months ago). This is the shop that redrilled my front strut towers so I could use my camber plates as caster plates. I bought new camber bolts for them to install because the one on my PS wasn't torquing like it was supposed to, so I'm pretty sure I messed up the threads a bit when I was removing it two years ago and didn't quite know what I was doing. I bought the same ones that have been in the car for four years,
Specialty Products Company 81260 Alignment Kit Specialty Products Company 81260 Alignment Kit
.

After much waiting, confusion, and frustration, they finally gave me my car back some 3 hours after they started working on it (on a one hour job). I was the first one in the door in the morning, and the lack of good communication and slowness really turned me off. I will not be going back to PTuning. Oh, and they somehow drained my battery from having that tool hold down the brake pedal, which was an added bonus. Either way, I left there pretty angry, but at least I had a good alignment.



I have no idea how I gained so much toe out since my last alignment. The only stuff I've done to the suspension since my last alignment in 2015 was new ball joints and ES control arm bushings. The car feels very stable again, and I haven't pushed it yet, but so far I'm pleased with the results.

I would like to touch on a discussion in this thread from a few years ago, mainly the safety of camber bolts. I've read some horror stories about them breaking, and the technical writings from Norm Peterson showing them to be a potential problem, but I must say that I have abused the **** out of my car (frequent auto-x on Hoosiers, that time I hit a speed bump at 40 mph and broke my PS axle carrier bearing bracket, etc) and these camber bolts have taken it all in stride. The OEM strut to spindle bolts should get 110 ft/lb of torque, and these camber bolts require 97 ft/lb. I can't help but wonder how many camber bolts problems are due to over-torquing. I welcome further discussion!
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