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On going problem having to turn the key multiple times on 95 3.0.Replaced switch still did it getting worse. Want to check power to solenoid.Need procedure.Ideas?Is it possible to jump contacts on solenoid and use a push button to start?Car rarely used just for errands.Real nice condition,runs like dream once started.Living on social security limited budget.Some of you know my disabilities which compounds working on it.Thanks
Last edited by Frank50e; Aug 23, 2019 at 04:03 PM.
Frank, you are thinking about old-school work around solutions.
I had an 84 Nissan Pickup. It had similar issues.
I bought ha heavy duty push button and installed it in an unused cover plug on the dash. I ran a wire from the battery, through the switch, and then to the solinoid.
This is just a more permanant way of hot wiring a car, like we did in the old days.
The VW repair guide for the complete idiot had us install a 1960s Ford starter relay near the starter, then thinner wire and a low amp switch on the dashboard.
This could be the ignition switch in the steering column. Many of us have had the same problem, have to turn the key multiple times to get the engine to start.
Dash lights etc come on when key turned in ignition but it takes several sometimes many tries to get the starter to engage.Once it “catches” fires right up.
Start with the basics. Use a multi meter and test the solenoid circuit and ignition switch.
Can you be more specific about the catching part? Does the solenoid click? Does starter grind? Or does it do nothing until you get the switch just right?
I replaced it but maybe I got a bad one.Can you tell me if you have the hood open you can hear the relays click but still no starter engagement with a bad switch.
Frank, you said relayS, meaning more than one. There are several relays that will energize (click) when you turn the key to the ON position, but they are not for the starter. There is only one relay for the starter and it will energize (click) only when the key is turned to the START position. If the starter switch was bad, meaning the electrical contacts were not making a connection, you would not hear the relay click. But the clicking sound is very faint and any other noise could keep you from hearing it.
The starter relay is called the INHIBIT relay and is located in the box that is in front of the battery. It is in the row directly in front of the battery, the 2nd relay from the radiator. If you put your finger on the relay, you can probably feel the relay click.
If you are familiar with using a voltmeter and jumper wires, I can give you some more ways to check. Here is one of them. Remove the air filter box so that you can see the starter. Connect the voltmeter's black wire (negative) to a good ground. Place the voltmeter's red probe on the wire coming from the INHIBIT relay to where it connects to the starter solenoid. When you or someone turns the ignition key to the START position, the voltmeter should read about 12 volts. If not, then either the ignition switch or the INHIBIT relay is bad. If the meter reads 12 volts, then the starter solenoid is bad.
Last edited by DennisMik; Aug 24, 2019 at 01:14 PM.
Reason: add photo