Check wires to starter solenoid
#1
Check wires to starter solenoid
On going problem having to turn the key multiple times on 95 3.0.Replaced switch still did it getting worse. Want to check power to solenoid.Need procedure.Ideas?Is it possible to jump contacts on solenoid and use a push button to start?Car rarely used just for errands.Real nice condition,runs like dream once started.Living on social security limited budget.Some of you know my disabilities which compounds working on it.Thanks
Last edited by Frank50e; 08-23-2019 at 04:03 PM.
#2
Frank, you are thinking about old-school work around solutions.
I had an 84 Nissan Pickup. It had similar issues.
I bought ha heavy duty push button and installed it in an unused cover plug on the dash. I ran a wire from the battery, through the switch, and then to the solinoid.
This is just a more permanant way of hot wiring a car, like we did in the old days.
You are on the right track.
Let us know about your creative wiring.
I had an 84 Nissan Pickup. It had similar issues.
I bought ha heavy duty push button and installed it in an unused cover plug on the dash. I ran a wire from the battery, through the switch, and then to the solinoid.
This is just a more permanant way of hot wiring a car, like we did in the old days.
You are on the right track.
Let us know about your creative wiring.
#7
Start with the basics. Use a multi meter and test the solenoid circuit and ignition switch.
Can you be more specific about the catching part? Does the solenoid click? Does starter grind? Or does it do nothing until you get the switch just right?
Can you be more specific about the catching part? Does the solenoid click? Does starter grind? Or does it do nothing until you get the switch just right?
#10
To me, this sounds like a possible starter ground issue.
If possible, check and clean or resurface the known grounding locations.
Also, it’s my recommendation that the starter be removed and the stater-to-block mating surfaces be cleaned thoroughly and scuffed.
Do this to both the block surface and the starter surface.
If possible, check and clean or resurface the known grounding locations.
Also, it’s my recommendation that the starter be removed and the stater-to-block mating surfaces be cleaned thoroughly and scuffed.
Do this to both the block surface and the starter surface.
#11
Frank, you said relayS, meaning more than one. There are several relays that will energize (click) when you turn the key to the ON position, but they are not for the starter. There is only one relay for the starter and it will energize (click) only when the key is turned to the START position. If the starter switch was bad, meaning the electrical contacts were not making a connection, you would not hear the relay click. But the clicking sound is very faint and any other noise could keep you from hearing it.
The starter relay is called the INHIBIT relay and is located in the box that is in front of the battery. It is in the row directly in front of the battery, the 2nd relay from the radiator. If you put your finger on the relay, you can probably feel the relay click.
If you are familiar with using a voltmeter and jumper wires, I can give you some more ways to check. Here is one of them. Remove the air filter box so that you can see the starter. Connect the voltmeter's black wire (negative) to a good ground. Place the voltmeter's red probe on the wire coming from the INHIBIT relay to where it connects to the starter solenoid. When you or someone turns the ignition key to the START position, the voltmeter should read about 12 volts. If not, then either the ignition switch or the INHIBIT relay is bad. If the meter reads 12 volts, then the starter solenoid is bad.
The starter relay is called the INHIBIT relay and is located in the box that is in front of the battery. It is in the row directly in front of the battery, the 2nd relay from the radiator. If you put your finger on the relay, you can probably feel the relay click.
If you are familiar with using a voltmeter and jumper wires, I can give you some more ways to check. Here is one of them. Remove the air filter box so that you can see the starter. Connect the voltmeter's black wire (negative) to a good ground. Place the voltmeter's red probe on the wire coming from the INHIBIT relay to where it connects to the starter solenoid. When you or someone turns the ignition key to the START position, the voltmeter should read about 12 volts. If not, then either the ignition switch or the INHIBIT relay is bad. If the meter reads 12 volts, then the starter solenoid is bad.
Last edited by DennisMik; 08-24-2019 at 01:14 PM. Reason: add photo
#13
Frank, this sounds like the dreaded "slop" problem. Take a look at this thread: https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...tion-slop.html
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
95MaxSE
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
11
02-28-2016 10:36 AM
fugi43
3rd Generation Maxima (1989-1994)
7
03-23-2006 07:20 AM
jarrod91se
3rd Generation Maxima (1989-1994)
2
03-05-2004 09:31 AM