Humidity sucks!

 

You will be pleased to know that the Topeka temp reached 106* today. I'm saving this one for you! Or maybe I'll roll it out in November, instead..

 

You guys are complaining bout heat and humidity

 

I'll be back august 27th or 28th. It's probably still gonna be hot then, so I'll feel your pain. lol

 

Well, the heat and humidity interfere with building my new nitrous system. However, I did test the nylon hose design and took some pictures. Some problems came up. I took off the Altima UIM and drilled and tapped the mounting plate for six Induction Solution nitrous nozzles and installed them. More photos- looks pretty good now. This was Friday morning before the heat and humidty drove me inside.

I need to set up and test another version of the nylon hose before I dump the whole idea and start planning another version based on 3AN flexible lines. I would rather not spend another $250-$300 buying a bunch of short flex hoses, but oh well..... The heat today is over 105* right now, so I'll try to do some more work early in the morning, before the heat and humidity drive me inside.

 

I what kev is saying is that here in the Florida panhandle area its a walking sauna. I walked outside yesterday broke a sweat before getting off my porch. God I love having a pool.

 

Nice, i was just talkin bout florida weather

 

Nice, i was just talkin bout florida weather

I know all about the weather not wanting you to work on the car. Took me 3 days to install my headers lol

 

I was just poking a little fun - this "heat dome" ?? covering the middle of the US is unreal - and I heard that New Jersey had a high temp of 108* yesterday. "This, too, shall pass" So how is Florida?

 

I connected some 3/16" tubing to a distribution block and nozzles, then to a nitrous tank, and opened the tank a bit. I did the same thing with 1/8" nylon hose. The .020 funnel jet was at the far end, in the nozzle. The 3/16" hose leaked badly and got worse over 30 seconds. The 1/8 hose with 4mm olives immediately blew off the nozzle and distribution block. Not very promising.

3/16" line and olives...






1/8" hose and 4mm olives

[IMG]http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f216/hwb123/07_July_2011
/DSCN2055.jpg[/IMG]

 

Time to take off the UIM and install nozzles, then re-install the UIM - so I did.



I opened up spaces around each nozzle.




I also moved the fuel line up to clear space for whatever hose I use. I think I'll also have to raise the wiring loom to clear the lower fuel hose.






At least this worked as planned.

 

Looks good! Way to go.

 

Any updates? I'm being deprived!

 

Deprived? I hear depraved.... Anyway, I've been doing a few things this week, and photos are attached. Thank heavens the 110+ temperatures are gone!
I dunno if I showed this before, but here is the 4,000 stall converter from IPT. This comes later, after the nitrous system is functional.





I did some surgery on the intake manifold and nitrous nozzles, with a different approach to the fuel and nitrous distribution blocks. To clear the hoses around the wiring harness, tonight I moved the harness up and secured it with a couple of braces from the valve cover. The fuel block and the lines go on the bottom, using two 6" and four 12" -3AN hoses. The nitrous block will have the same hoses, going over the harness to the nozzles.

The best part is that I have been studying nitrous controllers and have decided to use the latest NX Maximizer 3 controller. It has 3 modes - time ramp, RPM ramp, and throttle-position ramp! The last mode starts with 50% throttle opening and reads up to 100% open. This ramp is established for throttle opening from the low end of the set window and up to the upper limit. This thing is cool! Dancing solenoids will finally be in my life.

Nitrous layout as of now.







I have a NOS Pro-Race 450HP nitrous solenoid and NOS Cheater 400HP solenoid to use initially. I can jet the six nozzles for 250HP and use the controller to spray anything from 10HP to 250HP - with the throttle, if I want. .


NX controller link: http://www.nitrousexpress.com/produc...ls.php?id=1438

NX controller PDF file: http://www.nitrousexpress.com/maxdl/...izer3reva1.pdf


.

 

Looks great

 

Why, thank you... This minor project got very complicated, since there was no obvious way to mount nitrous nozzles to the Altima UIM, then there was the question of how to plumb them once that was solved, and the nylon hose experiment was a total bust (I still think I'm missing something here) and once I went back to regular hoses, how to use distribution blocks and hoses to get at least one stage connected and still be able to access the front plugs. Researching nitrous controllers led me to installing just one stage of nitrous and using the controller to manage the shot level, which should make this project simpler in the long run. All this in the middle of the worst heat wave since 1980.

 

For what it's worth - while I was looking for 12 more nitrous hoses, I found this company on eBay. The teflon hoses I bought were $11.70 each, including all shipping charges ! If you ever bought a nitrous line from Jegs, you know what a bargain these lines are. Go to their store for other sizes - they have a lot of them. I bought a total of 16 hoses from them for this project.

I'm going to set up a test fixture and test each line under nitrous pressure before the final install, but they look good.

Here is a link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3AN-S...mZ190556057610

 

I went a little further tonight. I made three notched blocks to keep the nozzles from moving when lines are attached and removed. Three blocks for three pairs on nozzles. Then I attached the center hoses of the fuel and nitrous blocks to check clearances - OK -and then made spacers to stack the blocks on the lower plate.











Once the stacked distribution blocks are firmly mounted on the lower plate, there is still a little hood clearance there. I have to finish sealing the distribution block connectors with Permabond. When the rest of the hoses arrive, and all hoses are pressure-tested, I can install the test 75-shot jets and seal everything. Then the solenoid mounting and hose layout can commence.

 

Looks awesome! Getting closer to tearing up the track.

 

I try... it's getting harder to get new things installed under the hood.

Remember that you had commented on the wheels for my slicks? Finally remembered - they are American Racing AR23, 15x8, found in the Summit catalog. A pair of those on the rear would look purdy good...

 

I love the wrenches. Did you get those at Harbor Freight? I have a SAE and metric set of six point sockets made by Pittsburgh Tools that I bought at HF. They seem to hold up just as well as the Craftsman stuff, and cost much less.

 

Like the shiny stuff, eh? Yeah, those are from Harbor Freight - their wrenches are good stuff - I probably have 6 or 7 sets of different types of wrenches from them. I carry a set whereever I'm working. I still prefer the Craftsman sockets for their better fit, but Harbor Freight numba one!

 

Yeah, I bet it is.

The wheels are awesome! They're pretty cheap too at $102.95. I wish they fit on my car.

 

Maybe when I get the 10" M/H slicks and mount them on AR23s, I could put the old slicks and wheels on the rear!

 

People will be like, is that an AWD maxima?

That'd be funny!

 

Well, the mounted slicks are a LOT lighter than the tires/wheels that are on the back, and they definitely are safe at high speeds, so maybe ???? Then if I need the smaller slick on the front, I just swap front-to-rear!

Side note - my wife and I just came back from the last Harry Potter movie - a real kick-azz show...

 

I say do it! Lighter is always better. You know I believe that.

I haven't seen the new one. Maybe I'll go check it out.

 

I finished up the nitrous assembly this afternoon. I had clamped, glued, and screwed the two distribution blocks together and attached the last group of $11.70 hoses to the assembly. I then grabbed a bottle, adapted the 6AN line to the 4AN input to each block with hoses attached. Under pressure checking, I found out some things. After spraying nitrous through each block, I found that each AN nut on the block adapter was loose - I had to re-tighten each nut while they were cold.

I mounted the assembly on the base plate and found I had hood clearance problems, so I re-mounted the assembly and installed all jets and hoses for use. The final step will be to connect the nitrous and fuel solenoids to test the installed ( 20N/12F) 75-shot jets. Getting even closer!

Pictures:





The top block is the nitrous block - the fuel block is on the bottom.




Had to lower the base plate a bunch, so distribution blocks will clear the hood.








Ready for solenoids: (I still need to trim back the two mounting bolts for the base plate - they're sticking up here)





EDIT: I think I'm going to order new solenoids from Induction Solutions for nitrous, purge, and alcohol fuel - although I think that E85 and gasoline solenoids are the same.. Methanol is the one to watch out for. I will also order jets for 250 HP, using the NX jet guidelines. Just need to design a new mount for the WOT switch, and I could spray off the existing NOS solenoids. Hmmmmm.....

 

Really close now. Make sure you order some extra jets so you can tune the car. I'm sure you already know that though.

 

Yeah. I'm gonna play with the 75-shot on pump gas first, to see how each cylinder plays out. Since Induction Solutions nozzles use NOS jets, and I have a boatload of NX jets, I'll get some NOS fuel jets sized around the .012 jets that are the baseline jet for 75-shot. That's where I start - if this works like it should, then I'll install the NX SAFE tank with huge pump and regulator to spray with E85, along with the NX Maximizer 3 controller. Using the information I get off the fixed 75-shot, I'll jet for a max of 250-shot and tune with fuel pressure and use the NX controller for racing.

 

Nice, sounds like you got a good plan!

You gonna run this thing at any of the upcoming import faceoffs?

 

If I get the car running to my satisfaction - there's a Faceoff in Tulsa in September and one in Kansas City in October. You remember the rain at the last one? At least it was educational, complete with the GT-R, but a lot of great cars couldn't run in the rain...

Once I get the nitrous working, I'll stock up on race gas and fill all the nitrous bottles and visit the local tracks for test-n-tunes. I'm behind schedule, thanks to the monster heat wave we had here.

 

I figured out how to mount the WOT switch on the new TB. It looks and works pretty good. Later, I'll use the NX Maximizer for the WOT function, but for now I'll use what I got.





Solenoids and their plumbing are next.

 

I like it

 

Just wondering do you have a total of 12 jets to switch out for each stage or 2. And if it's 12 are you jetting for a 75shot to each cylinder or a 12.5shot

 

I want to go to both of them. Hopefully your car is ready to kick ***!
I was kinda mad that it rained in kansas city last time, but hey can't control the weather. I wanted to see some of those cars make some passes.

Let me know when you are going to test and tune, I want to come watch.
There are twelve jets to change with the direct port kit. Take the total shot and divide it by 6 to find what each nozzle is using. So yeah, each nozzle is making 12.5hp.

 

Like krazy6 said, with jetting for a 75-shot, the jets are scaled for 12.5 WHP for each nozzle - to start with. I hope to get each cylinder balanced with the others for A/F, then use that information to jet for a total 250-shot and control what actually gets sprayed with the NX controller. Changing 12 jets for one stage of nitrous will be kinda time-consuming at the track, so that's why I'm planning on a progressive controller.

75-shot to each cylinder would be - interesting - while it lasted. If the base engine makes 250WHP, and I want 600WHP, then each cylinder would need another 58 WHP. Jetting for 75 WHP for each cylinder with , in theory, produce 700 WHP. In my dreams...

 

The full 250 shot is gonna be beastly!

 

Think about this - the NX controller has a throttle mode, which kicks in at 50% throttle and goes to 100% - so you can program the controller for a 0%-100% of the total shot level for all throttle positions between 50% and 100%.

You can control the power level with the throttle - just like having a huge turbo attached! I'm looking forward to this.

 

That controller sounds pretty awesome!

Make sure you check the solenoids often though. Pulsing really beats up the solenoids.