What a fricken tease

I think I speak for everyone we don't want to see your led tails or your screens - we want to hear the motor screaming

waited patiently.. the bonnet goes up, then down then up again - aaaah will he start it .. NO

Can we get a clip after the 15min scanning bizo ?

 

 

Definitely no MAP sensor for the ECU. There is a MAP sensor in a stock Skyline for the factory fitted boost gauge on the dash but it does not send any signal to the ECU

As for the idle, disconnect both MAF's next time you start it so the ECU goes into a base mode. If it idles better, then one of the MAF's are bad.

Sounds like the IACV is not hooked up to the intercooler piping though and is causing the ECU to hunt as it tries to balance idle. Is the O2 sensors connected?

 

nah they flip !

 

This is insane...i spent the last hour reading this thread....you better get this done soon man,and when you do....go kill some hondERS and video it get this thing running!!!

 

Nice Job! So ok wheres the plug play kit for this. lol

 

ok so just to give an update couldn't get anything done cause didn't get the switch for the cooling fans, should be here soon. My fuel guage on the dash only goes up to the half but the tank is full could it be because of the tank size or some adjustments have to be made some where????

 

I would be checking the fuel sender in the tank is working correctly(get a mutlimeter and check the resistance) and if its working fine, then the gauge may have the needle damaged or the dash cluster does not have a solid clean earth point.

 

^^ couldnt said it better

 

ok so here I am almost at the end of the project and not happy !
The car sounds like a pure breed race car, and starts like a muscle car with carburetor on start up why why why????? the car has not been tuned yet but i don't think it will make much of a difference

 

sounds like a bolt is missing somewhere near the manifold for exhaust.... my mustang had that clacking until I found a missing bolt.. look on the lift with it on.

 

yes check the O2 sensor bungs, you may not have one in... making it sound terrible.

 

I one got a vq35 that when attempting to start sounded like complete death, it was diagnosed that it was not in timing. Turned out bong for the EGR was not blocked off, so basically one runner of the header was dumping all the exhaust into engine bay, sounded scary. So check all your exhaust piping and header, with engine cold start the car and put your hand all over the headers n stuff to see if you feel leaks.

 

sounds like an exhuast leak...

 

ok so I have another problem when i rev the enging the turbo at the back sucks more than the one at the front so i took off the hose that connects the the intercooler and the engine and both work fine vacume the lines to see if they were clogged but nothing came out what am i missing. can a bad vacume affect the compression reading i am getting a 100 reading when it should be 171

P.S hate the way the enighe sounds at idle

 

Detailed pictures of the engine around the exhaust, turbos and inlet manifold would help diagnose your problems

 

look what I found could this be my problem

 

Well one injector not providing fuel will definately cause the car to idle rough and sound like crap.

 

all 6 injectors are out shooting at the cardbord, I sent them out to RC today and will have them back on thursday

 

i'd get new injectors first, then recheck all grounds again. Check to be sure no vacuum hoses have cracks in them. the smallest crack in a vacuum hose can cause trouble.

 

thats good.. darn you beat me to the clock xD

 

It looked as if that one wasnt squirting consistently.

 

well this was the second run I got the clip of but the first 3 injectors were not constant in supply and spray pattern, But can that cause my poor compression reading

 

right meow?

 

anyone know where I can have my turbos rebuild for more power

 

Hey,

Hows the engine compression now? injectors not firing shouldn't affect it

You getting turbo rebuilt because ones not spinning properly?

 

yeah one seems to suck more air that the other. as far as the compression goes I check the skyline forum and some people said they get like 120-135 but 100 is too low when it should be 171, so as of now I am sort of stuck if one of the cylinders is bad

 

how high the Compression numbers are really isnt that important, what IS important is that they are all consistent and within (i believe) something like 5-10% of eachother, it depends on the Factory specs but thats kind of a general figure for almost all cars....

Are you sure your checking compression correctly? You shouldnt be dumping fuel in the cyl when your checking the compression, you might have washed the cyl out if you didnt disable the injectors when you checked it the first time, THAT could def give you some wack compression readings.

Your also suposed to be holding the throttle WIDE open when you check compression on any motor, so make sure your doing that. and dont be afraid to let it crank for a while (4-6 turns or untill the comp needle peeks and doesnt move anymore).

Try puttting in a table spoon of oil in the cyl that is giving you low compression numbers and check the compression again...

 

just came back from rc hopefully my problems are over

 

ok so I did over the compression test with injectors out and got 140 in all cycliders with the piston coming up 3 times. and when I did it with the injectors in except the one that was being tested I got 155 all the way across with the piston coming up 3 times so I think that my compression is good. also the idle is not as rough as before but has a little backfire going on so i will change out my spark plugs and go from there

 

Good to see the troubleshooting process is coming along

 

little backfire as in how bad? my 240SX with no cats and straight exhaust (it's a race car, not a street car) will backfire and pop a little bit when I let off the gas, but it runs just fine while on the gas.

the backfiring and bad idle could both be a sign of a lean condition. what's fuel pressure at idle? how's the spray pattern of the injectors now? where's ignition timing set?

Are the turbos still sucking different amounts of air? I'd fire it up and let it run a while and see where things go. use an infrared/laser temp probe to watch intkae and exhaust temps on both turbos. higher temps = restriction.

 

its not bad but idle is bad thinking of changing my airflow sensors and see here is the injector report

 

Ahh where gonna need an update now m'kay?

Have you had a chance to try a different airflow meter?

 

The RB can be a finicky engine.. Just remember, that most of these engines are over 10 years of age, and troubleshooting can be a pain.

 

Note to self... DO NOT try to race a silver maxima in the BK area...

 

I am trying to get some new ones we change the gaskets and same thing but what i notice there is a little knocking sound coming out of the motor at the front

 

Did you guys ever take apart the engine to see in what condition the internals were in?

 

Glad to hear that you got your compression readings somewhat normal! This is definately NOT the first time anyone has had a big scare with wacky comp readings because of improper testing! Believe me i know haha

As for the knocking, does it get worse as the motor revs up? Have you let the motor warm up to operating temperature? Are you sure its a "knocking" sound?

What do you have timing set at? This may be farfetched, but maybe at some point the motor skipped a tooth on the timing chain, maybe the knocking sound may be just the chain itself? Just throwing different ideas out there! It should be worth it to check out the cam gears to make sure that everything is lined up where its suposed to be, its as easy as taking off the valve cover.

I know on the VQ we have really bad problems with our timing chain tensioners that cause a knocking or rattling noise, i know i have sometimes confused this with other engine related noises. 99% of the time the sound will subside considerably or go away completely once the motor warms up to operating temperature. Unfortunately KA's do this also, im not familiar with RB's having that issue but its def cheaper to fix than rod knock! lol

Have you tested your air meters with a multi-meter? Check to see what the proper resistance should be with the FSM or any manual that you may have. Sometimes they will give good readings even though they are bad tho, so be weary.

You may also want to try to record the sound and post it up, we maybe able to have a better idea. Just a thought.

 

well not really just looked at the pistons and leak test, The knocking is low you really have to listen hard to hear it but when you rev it sounds normalI will look at the manual and see what the readings have to be and check them,

dam so near but yet so far