thank you NMex max, this wiring harness has been very hard to find but I think I found one on that website, will a engine wiring harness include the plug for the ecu?

 

It should, if not there are options. I would call them and ask, since the description can be somewhat vague.

 

Well, I ran into the same problem today. "No crank, no start" with only rapid clicking. All of sudden, no advanced warning. After checking all the fuses I had the bright idea of measuring the battery voltage: it was only 11.2V. I asked a friend for a boost and the car started right away.

Bought a new battery at Costco - and everything is back to normal.

 

Well I'm going to need a new battery any way since I won't hold a charge anymore. The troubling thing is I've tried starting with the battery out my father's maxima that's 2 years older than mine with the same engine/battery, still same symptoms. Battery that tests fine out of my jeep, same symptoms.

Here's a videohttps://*******/Zcw0

 

OK, so your engine is not seized up (you stated that in your previous post).

When you attempt to start, your battery voltage drops to 5V.
That's bad, but it helps in diagnosis: you have a bad battery, or a bad starter, or bad battery/starter cables, and/or some combination thereof.

What's the battery voltage when idle (not cranking)?

Since your car is a manual, can you push-start it?

What happens when you boost-start it?

 

Voltage drops from the trigger wire going to the solenoid, the wire that is held in the positive wire(s), I think it goes to a 40 amp fuse in the engine bay fuse box. I need to redo the voltage drop on that. I believe I got that reading on a dead battery and by reading the voltage with the 2 plugs disconnected, so just a reading not a voltage drop.

Voltage on the now bad battery was 12.2v, 12.7 on 6 year old jeep battery, and 12.57 on other maxima battery

Im going to do cables next. Luckily i have 3 tested good starters(though one is not reliable in practice) and 2 swappable battery's, and my father's maxima to compare it to. Honestly this has stressed me out more than putting in the transmission.

I live in a neighborhood with a lot of kids but only a hundred feet from a long hill. After new cables I'll have to wait till the street lights come on. Hopefully it won't be like my old Buick where I push it 2 miles back home with a minivan haha

 

how do i use the VINs to decipher if the maxima has a locking trans when the maxima.org vin decoder doesn't list it?

 

Use the transaxle code on the VIN plate.

 

Hi All,

I've been lurking here for a while but haven't posted anything yet. I need some help with my '03 GLE.

I've gotten the P0340 code, camshaft position sensor. I removed the sensor as the connector and sensor were pretty dirty looking. I wiped the sensor and connector down a bit. When I went to connect the two together, I got a click but the sensor was not secured in the connector. I could pull them apart without much effort at all.

Should I be looking to replace the sensor, the connector or should I thoroughly clean the connector? What should I use? Engine degreaser? Any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Tony

 

You can uses anything that will dissolve grease. You could use engine cleaner but that usually requires rinsing off. Try rubbing alcohol, windex, carb cleaner, dishwashing detergent.

As to why the connector won't stay together, it could be the cam sensor or the wire harness connector. Can't tell without seeing the 2 pieces. Why don't you try removing the other cam sensor and plugging it into the wire for the other sensor. That will tell you which part has the problem.

 

Sweet also the parts guy at my local dealer can look up the VINs for me. i'm trying to get a LSD auto 4 speed.

 

Thanks, Dennis!

It got a little late in the day for me to try yesterday, as I had to return the crankshaft sensor that AutoZone sold me instead of the camshaft sensor. I might not be able to get to it until the weekend, but I will post how it goes.

 

Tony, I'm new to this post too.

I took my 02 into the dealer and it had them change out the 3 sensors for free along with the passenger air bag sensor. Dealer claimed they changed out 2 cam sensors and the crank sensor. Now...after that, i notice that my car runs a little funny. It picks up a little slower than usual. It use to response to throttle very quickly but since I took it in, not so much from start.
I still have to crank for a few seconds before I can get the car to start which is kinda embarrassing when leaving work at the parking lot. I now would turn the key to the ON position for a few seconds then start it.
Anyways, call the dealer and ask them to check your VIN number and have them check if your car falls in the RECALL category.
Good luck!

Jason

 

Hi, I've never posted, but have been lurking around for a bit trying to figure out why our 2000 i30 is leaking oil all over the inside of the engine bay. I read quite a bit and determined that at the very least the pcv valve was clogged. In the process of removing the old one though, I discovered so many cracked and hardened hoses that I think most of them need to be replaced. They are all as old as the car from what I can tell. I've ordered replacement valve cover gaskets, tube seals, and grommets and also plan to do an IACV coolant bypass, and add a blow by oil catch thanks to reading about them in other threads. My question is how to buy replacement hose for essentially the entire engine bay? I've been labeling hoses and taking lots of pictures as I've been taking things out to get to the valve covers, but I'm not sure if I can just go into autozone or equivalent and purchase bulk roles in a couple of diameters, or if it's a lot more complicated than that and I need to buy preshaped hose pieces for a specific location/function. I can't imagine that every piece is specific, but I see a lot for sale on ebay, etc that says it's for a certain make/model/year and yet looks just like any other length of hose. Thanks so much for any help. I've never gotten this far under the hood before, but we couldn't keep handing over thousands of dollars to the dealer, so I'm trying to learn.

 

i had to replace 1 pcv hose because it cracked doing vc gaskets. napa gave me some crappy one that wasnt quite right when i took my old one in there so i returned it and went oem. i opted to do 2 of them because i had it all apart. probably not the only way to do it but it is what i did. for the less formed hoses you could buy generic vacuum hose from an auto parts store and replace as needed.

nissanpartsasap.com is one source for parts, start poking around for diagrams and making a list of part #s. the ones i purchased are 11826 and 11823 from the diagram below


iacv bypass is good, i wasn't able to bypass with existing hoses so i bought a 2' piece of fuel line hose from advance and cut it to what i needed.

i am not sure the blow by catch can is necessary for your vehicle, that was more something the oil burning 3.5 guys were doing.

if you're an AT go ahead and disconnect the motor mounts, as they can take out the ecu and lead to costly repairs

good luck and welcome to the org

 

Thanks for the picture above. I think I might have to change out a few hose on my 02 as well.

 

Has anyone added hubcentric wheel spacers to a 2000? If so what MM would you suggest? I am looking at adding them to the rear. I am just not sure if a 25MM is what I should use to bring the wheel out even with the body. Let me know if you have any suggestions. Thanks

 

Yes, thanks, cornholio. I definitely don't have a 3.5, but I thought oil catch might be good since when I changed the engine air filter it was covered in oil . . I guess because of a thoroughly blocked pcv. I ordered one of the pre-made catch cans on ebay and it's still sitting in the box. I'm not sure exactly where to mount it, but I can probably find out on some other threads. Is there a down side to doing on a 3 liter? I'm fine not using it, or putting it on one of our other cars (which are all equally non-sporty though).

 

Hi all, Alan here. I have a 2003 SE 6spd, with nearly all factory options. I bought it brand new in August 2002. It's been my ultra-dependable daily driver ever since. Now, it's got 280,000 miles and it's time for me to move on.

The car has a few issues, but I hate to scrap it. I'd love to see another Maxima enthusiast make use of it, either to keep it on the road, or for parts. I'll get it posted in the classifieds once post count allows.

I welcome any advice or suggestions on how to go about parting ways with my beloved Maxima.

 

I've got plenty more pictures and way too much information to type out right now. $1000 would make this baby yours. I'll be happy to discuss with any interested party.

 

what's up everybody, just joined

recently my '03 GLE (automatic) started having some ignition issues

from a cold start, it always starts up fine on the first key turn

but once i've driven a bit, (say i'm running errands) and i park it and come back to it within 5 minutes, the first key turn will rev the engine nicely, only to have it die within a second or two

the second key turn has always had a 100% success rate. i keep it in park throughout the whole process, never giving it any gas

but today, it took 4 turns to get it going, and on the 4th turn i put it in reverse

it's got a relatively new battery (2-3 years old) and i've maintained the car pretty well in general

my best guess is the alternator (i've had sporadic electrical issues in the past - sunroof, passenger window) or spark plugs

any thoughts? thanks!

 

Why do you think it's the alternator, or the spark plugs? Why? ..... Try to explain this to yourself - can you find a reason to make this statement?

When a car starts OK when cold, but doesn't when warm the most likely reason is that "it has too much fuel and not enough air". If you've ever driven a car with manual choke, you would know what I am talking about.
Try starting the car while depressing the accelerator. If this does not help, clean your TB. If that does not help either, look at your MAF and fuel delivery parts such as the fuel dampener.

 

thanks maxiiiboy, i'll check it out

 

I have been trying to get the plenum on my 2000 I30 to change the valve covers due to lots of leaks and gaskets that are at least 11 years old - may even be original if first owner never changed them. I think I have all the bolts off, including the 2 infamous 12 mm ones in the back by the firewall, but there are 2 long bolts on the front 2 corners of the plenum that seem to be 10mm, but are rounding off with a box end wrench and I don't have anything else that can get to them. How do I remove them? I have not removed the fuel rail and that is in the way. Should I have removed that already? I'm not sure how to do so safely (ie without leaking/spraying fuel everywhere) b/c I have already pulled the battery and electrical harness out and can't start it to depressurize fuel line as in most write ups recommend. It has been sitting for weeks, so maybe there isn't any pressure, but it's the first time I've done anything close to this involved, so I don't want to take the "just try it and see" approach.

 

You shouldn't need to take the fuel rail off to do your valve covers.

Which 2 bolts are you having problems with? Is it the nuts on the threaded piece?

 

Yes, I think so. It looks like a bolt sticking up from underneath and through the front corners of the plenum, 1 on right and 1 on left as you face the engine bay from front of the car. The threaded pieces are long enough that I can't get a deep socket over it and the clearance is not great around the nut either. I can't get my flex end ratcheting wrench down over it bc it hits the side of the plenum. The only thing that I can get on the nut is 10 mm box end, but that is rounding it, even after generous applications of carb cleaner, silicone spray, etc

 

hmm. i think i was able to use a deep socket for those

 

I finally got the upper intake off of my 2000 i30 and nearly had the rear valve cover off as well, but there's a number 10 bolt on the back edge (2nd one from the right if standing at front bumper facing engine bay) that is blocked by a bracket holding a blue electrical connection. No matter how I try to approach the bolt, I cannot get a socket on it. The bracket is a real pain, but I can't figure out how to remove it either. I thought about just trying to bend it out of the way, but wasn't sure what it's attached to down below and didn't want to crack anything. Any idea how to get to this bolt to remove it? Thanks for any help!

 

iirc i bent the bracket slightly to fit a socket on that bolt. i'll try to take a quick look tomorrow and see if it jogs my memory

 

OK, great, thank you!

 

looking didn't jog my memory any better. i still think i bent it just enough to fit a socket on there

 

I'd already posted in the senior member area but I'm a noob here. I was discussing the issue I had with the ECM/IACV. The IACV was bad and Bridgestone diagnosed it as a bad IACV but Nissan said bad ECM too. Then why did it not flash the P0605 too? Why didn't Bridgestone figure out it was a bad ECM?
Surely they would've informed me it was a P0605 bad ECM.

 

holy **** dude give it a rest

 

Your post does not make any sense. NONE.
Please, try to read and understand more, and to post less. We'll be grateful - all of us.

 

So has any of the other members read the write up about the 5th generation on wiki? It specifically emphasizes the motor mounts as an issue. I think Its being discussed As a ground issue but I'm uncertain. What's your opinion on the write up? Exactly how would the electronic motor mounts cause downshifting issues?

 

Thanks for your reply cornholio. I finally had a chance to get back to the valve cover replacement and went ahead and just bent the bracket as you mentioned. It did the trick for getting to that last 10mm bolt on the rear cover. Covers are both off now, so I think the next step is replacing the tube seals, and then the valve cover gaskets. I was hoping to recover a large piece of PCV valve grommet that I accidentally pushed in while trying to change the 16 year old valve, but I can't see it. Is there a way to get it while I have the covers off or was that wishful thinking?

 

are there any threads on rust repair?

 

Just solved the lost PCV grommet issue. Shook the valve cover 'til the piece fell down to the opening and fished it out with needle nose. Should have thought of that sooner.

 

good question I got some minor rust forming around the fuel door on the car body. I need to get on it.
Should it go to a body shop or are there some DIY methods to treat it?

 

I need someone to explain to me how the automatic windows work exactly.

i know you have to hold down the button and they roll down.... but they seem to operate in two modes at random....

1. i hold it and it goes down all the way (after one click or two or three???)
2. first click and hold, it goes down only about 3 inches and it seems to be exactly the same each time that happens....


wtf is going on?