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Hey guys, so I have this problem where if I make really sharp/harsh left turns my car starts to jerk really bad and my RPMs bounce up and down really crazy. Sometimes it gets so bad to the point where I stall out and have to start it back up. It only happens when I turn left. Could a bad passenger axle be the cause of this or do you guys think it fuel pump/filter related? 2000 Nissan Maxima SE Auto btw.
Hey guys, so I have this problem where if I make really sharp/harsh left turns my car starts to jerk really bad and my RPMs bounce up and down really crazy. Sometimes it gets so bad to the point where I stall out and have to start it back up. It only happens when I turn left. Could a bad passenger axle be the cause of this or do you guys think it fuel pump/filter related? 2000 Nissan Maxima SE Auto btw.
I don't think it would be an axle. I wonder if it could be a broken motor mount that allows the engine to flop around and pulls on the wire harness. In that same idea, check the lower radiator support to see if it has rusted out and has let the engine drop.
Replaced the belt and replaced the PSF with new PSF (with the one you recommended...problem solved!!!
Thanks a lot!!!! Next thing on the list is Coolant flush!!!
Very new to this long time honda person. i just bought 2001 maxima gle issue im having is driver side master switch will roll down windows on front and rear on driver side. on pass. side will only roll up front window and roll down rear window. went to junk yard got switch notice it has white box but switch in there now has green box. plug switch in from yard no power. ordered one new again white box plug it in nothing happens but the green box master switch lights up.. i was told this green box switch does not belong to car but it does more then other, please help....
Very new to this long time honda person. i just bought 2001 maxima gle issue im having is driver side master switch will roll down windows on front and rear on driver side. on pass. side will only roll up front window and roll down rear window. went to junk yard got switch notice it has white box but switch in there now has green box. plug switch in from yard no power. ordered one new again white box plug it in nothing happens but the green box master switch lights up.. i was told this green box switch does not belong to car but it does more then other, please help....
The window switch is different for each year of the 5th gen Maxima and are not interchangeable. They are the same size and use the same harness connections so you can install it, but it won't work.
That said, the switch for a 2002 has a green backing. But I don't know what color a 2001 is.
post # 21 has photos of the 2000, 2002 & 2003 switches.
I don't think it would be an axle. I wonder if it could be a broken motor mount that allows the engine to flop around and pulls on the wire harness. In that same idea, check the lower radiator support to see if it has rusted out and has let the engine drop.
My radiator support was rusted out but I had gotten it fixed. But interesting how you mentioned the motor mounts. I had went over some train-tracks one day and it had started jerking and another day I had a really bad pot hole and stalled out. How much are the motor mounts to get replaced?
My radiator support was rusted out but I had gotten it fixed. But interesting how you mentioned the motor mounts. I had went over some train-tracks one day and it had started jerking and another day I had a really bad pot hole and stalled out. How much are the motor mounts to get replaced?
I can't help you on the motor mount price. I'm a do it yourselfer. All I can suggest is to call a couple of places and see.
The window switch is different for each year of the 5th gen Maxima and are not interchangeable. They are the same size and use the same harness connections so you can install it, but it won't work.
That said, the switch for a 2002 has a green backing. But I don't know what color a 2001 is.
post # 21 has photos of the 2000, 2002 & 2003 switches.
Humor me and check and check the year of the car. People have bought cars and though it was a certain year, but it ended up being different.
Look at the VIN. Count back from the right end to the 8th character.
Y = 2000
1 = 2001
2 = 2002
3 = 2003
I checked It is a 1. Now heres another thing car did not come with normal key looks like aftermarket and reading on the web theres something to do with key fob and windows. Could this be an issue. And the 2002 window switch is jumping around security Rolling windows down??, like i said very new to me.
I've heard enough horror stories to be cautious about ending up with an aftermarket one. Thanks in advance! One other question, my radiator core support-upper ( part 62511 on this diagram https://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima...2070_2072.html ) is damaged. It looks like its just bolted in on the 01, is this the case? If so I'd like to swap it out while I'm at it as it's cracking around the hood latch and I'm sure my hood will come undone while I'm driving eventually if I dont address it.
I've heard enough horror stories to be cautious about ending up with an aftermarket one. Thanks in advance! One other question, my radiator core support-upper ( part 62511 on this diagram https://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima...2070_2072.html ) is damaged. It looks like its just bolted in on the 01, is this the case? If so I'd like to swap it out while I'm at it as it's cracking around the hood latch and I'm sure my hood will come undone while I'm driving eventually if I dont address it.
Courtesy Nissan is a good place to order from. The upper support (part # 62510-5Y501) is a bolt on, so it is fairly easy to replace. But since the lower piece (part # 62530-5Y000) has to be welded in, I don't understand the concern whether the upper support is only bolt in.
Another place that is about $11 cheaper at $174.60 for the lower support is
TRI-CITIES NISSAN, INC.
3602 BRISTOL HWY JOHNSON CITY, TN 37601
(877) 758-9852
nissanpartsasap.com
If you search by the part numbers, do not type in the dash.
Courtesy Nissan is a good place to order from. The upper support (part # 62510-5Y501) is a bolt on, so it is fairly easy to replace. But since the lower piece (part # 62530-5Y000) has to be welded in, I don't understand the concern whether the upper support is only bolt in.
Another place that is about $11 cheaper at $174.60 for the lower support is
TRI-CITIES NISSAN, INC.
3602 BRISTOL HWY JOHNSON CITY, TN 37601
(877) 758-9852
nissanpartsasap.com
If you search by the part numbers, do not type in the dash.
Not necessarily concern, just preparing myself because I'm considering bolting everything together and driving it down to the welding shop that's about a mile down the road to see if they'll just spot weld everything in. I'm about to place the order but the only thing I'm confused about is the part I need for the upper support. There's three different choices but one is clearly labeled 2000 S so I'm confused as to which of the top two is the one I need.
Not necessarily concern, just preparing myself because I'm considering bolting everything together and driving it down to the welding shop that's about a mile down the road to see if they'll just spot weld everything in. I'm about to place the order but the only thing I'm confused about is the part I need for the upper support. There's three different choices but one is clearly labeled 2000 S so I'm confused as to which of the top two is the one I need.
If you click the 62511 (it wont let me link because of the brackets in the url) it shows the three choices.
I tried navigating that other website and it wouldn't pull up the pages I selected for some reason.
Yeah, that nissanpartsasap is a poorly designed website. But you could always call them.
Here is another way to find the part number. Have your VIN handy and go to nissanpartsdeal.com.
On the left side of the screen, enter your car's VIN. Then navigate to "Body (Front, Roof & Floor)" then "Front Apron & Radiator Core Support. You will only see parts for your car.
Or just click on the "Front Apron & Radiator Core Support" in the big list in the right 2/3 of the screen.
I have a knock sensor code that keeps recurring every time I clear the codes and I noticed my engine was pinging at idle. I bought a new knock sensor (OEM) that I would like to put in but it looks like a difficult job. People have said that you need to remove the intake manifold and replace the gasket for the manifold afterwards to replace the KS. Is this true or is there an easier way?
I have a knock sensor code that keeps recurring every time I clear the codes and I noticed my engine was pinging at idle. I bought a new knock sensor (OEM) that I would like to put in but it looks like a difficult job. People have said that you need to remove the intake manifold and replace the gasket for the manifold afterwards to replace the KS. Is this true or is there an easier way?
Steps would be helpful.
Thanks in advance!
The knock sensor only reports what is happening. It does not stop pinging. The fact that you can hear the engine pinging says that your knock sensor is working just fine.
So you need to figure out why the engine is pinging. Check that your spark plugs are not worn out. You can try cleaning the MAF sensor. But gas at a different gas station.
The knock sensor only reports what is happening. It does not stop pinging. The fact that you can hear the engine pinging says that your knock sensor is working just fine.
So you need to figure out why the engine is pinging. Check that your spark plugs are not worn out. You can try cleaning the MAF sensor. But gas at a different gas station.
Lots of causes for pinging.
I just replaced the MAF sensor a month or two ago with an OEM one so I'll check my plugs and most likely replace them since the car has 116k and I purchased it around 101k without a service history. I figure since I already have the knock sensor, I should replace it too. Is there an easy way to get to it or do I have to take off the intake manifold?
The knock sensor only reports what is happening. It does not stop pinging. The fact that you can hear the engine pinging says that your knock sensor is working just fine.
Yes, but .... : The Knock Sensor reports knocking to the ECU. The ECU is supposed to retard timing so that the knocking stops. Since the knocking does not stop, something is wrong. Either the ECU has reached the limit of how far it can retard timing, or the control element failed, or some other problem exists.
To make the decision about timing control/retardation, the ECU considers 11 inputs (see the table on p. EC-33 of the 2k FSM). BTW, you never told us what year your car is. In either case, download the proper version from http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/. Have fun!
Yes, but .... : The Knock Sensor reports knocking to the ECU. The ECU is supposed to retard timing so that the knocking stops. Since the knocking does not stop, something is wrong. Either the ECU has reached the limit of how far it can retard timing, or the control element failed, or some other problem exists.
To make the decision about timing control/retardation, the ECU considers 11 inputs (see the table on p. EC-33 of the 2k FSM). BTW, you never told us what year your car is. In either case, download the proper version from http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/. Have fun!
Wow, I can't believe I forgot the year... Haha. It's a 2001 Nissan Maxima GLE. I'll download that and have a look tomorrow. Another thing to add though is that sometimes the car performs better intermittently. Sometimes it seems like it has better throttle response than other times. It's weird but since I saw P0325 and read a few threads, I figured it'd be beneficial to replace the KS. I just didn't realize it would be so hard to get to. Oh and I'm not sure if what I'm experiencing at idle is really called pinging. What I notice is that occasionally the engine will sort of putter. I can see and hear the RPMs fluctuate too.
I have a 2001 Nissan Maxima v6 I was driving the other day and my brake light and battery light came on I continue to drive to get home all the lights turned off drove fine for about 5 minutes then ABS light would start flashing air bag light was flashing overdrive was flashing and turning on and off I replace the alternator about six to eight months ago it currently has 10000 miles on it so I don't think its the alternator because I had different problems and when I tested my battery after driving about 15 miles the battery still at 12 volts amd everything was still acting up and barely running. Once I turn the car off it would not turn back on without a jump but the battery still had 12 volts so it would be greatly appreciated
I have a 2001 Nissan Maxima v6 I was driving the other day and my brake light and battery light came on I continue to drive to get home all the lights turned off drove fine for about 5 minutes then ABS light would start flashing air bag light was flashing overdrive was flashing and turning on and off I replace the alternator about six to eight months ago it currently has 10000 miles on it so I don't think its the alternator because I had different problems and when I tested my battery after driving about 15 miles the battery still at 12 volts amd everything was still acting up and barely running. Once I turn the car off it would not turn back on without a jump but the battery still had 12 volts so it would be greatly appreciated
The brake and battery lights coming on at the same time mean the alternator is not charging. I hope you saved your receipt because your alternator has died.
Rebuilt alternators don't have a good reputation for long life. You got a bad one.
I have a situation and I needs help. I am new to Nissans I been so used to driving wide body 95 Grand Marquis for so long. I just bought they used 2000 Nissan Maxima a week ago and it has been jerking and stalling braking to a light, idling and sometimes when accelerating. They guy I brought it from said it had something to do with a MAF sensor or a throttle body, but Im not mechanically inclined so I don't know what I'm doing and on top of that, on the dash, the word "SLIP" pops up and engine service light comes on, can somebody please tell me what I have to do to fix this?! Thank u
I have a situation and I needs help. I am new to Nissans I been so used to driving wide body 95 Grand Marquis for so long. I just bought they used 2000 Nissan Maxima a week ago and it has been jerking and stalling braking to a light, idling and sometimes when accelerating. They guy I brought it from said it had something to do with a MAF sensor or a throttle body, but Im not mechanically inclined so I don't know what I'm doing and on top of that, on the dash, the word "SLIP" pops up and engine service light comes on, can somebody please tell me what I have to do to fix this?! Thank u
Drive to an auto parts store and ask then to read the check engine codes for you. This is a free service they do. Write down the actual codes and let us know what they are.
Drive to an auto parts store and ask then to read the check engine codes for you. This is a free service they do. Write down the actual codes and let us know what they are.
Okay well I just came from auto zone and they gave me 3 codes, they are P1820, P0500, and P1320 , so what do I do next
Okay well I just came from auto zone and they gave me 3 codes, they are P1820, P0500, and P1320 , so what do I do next
Download yourself the FSM for your car from http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/ . Then, look up the codes and the suggested remedies in the EC section of the FSM.
Okay well I just came from auto zone and they gave me 3 codes, they are P1820, P0500, and P1320 , so what do I do next
There is no P1820 code in the lists I have. They must have mis-read their reader. But then, you went to autozone. I went there a while back and they told me I had a P0308, mis-fire on cylinder # 8. I thanked them and went to another auto store.
P0500 is the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) that is in the transmission.
P1320 has the title of Ignition Signal. This translates that several cylinders have bad ignition coil packs. The problem is that you don't know which ones. Most people end up replacing all of them to clear this code.This is kind of expensive.
A word of advice - DO NOT buy e-bay ignition coils. They are cheap crap and you get what you pay for. The best deal is rockauto.com. They have the Hitachi brand (what Nissan used) at the best price around.
I have ebay coils in all 3 of my maximas. I have 140,000+ miles on a set in one, 40,000 in my other one, and only 2k in my 3rd. They have been rock solid performers and for $70 for all 6 I can't complain
I have a slight highway wobble. It was pretty bad but I got my bent rim repaired and it got a lot better, but it's still there. I'm thinking either my bent rim wasn't properly/fully repaired or maybe when I installed my strut assemblys I didn't rotate the mount correctly. Is a slight highway wobble a sign of improperly seated strut mounts?
I have a slight highway wobble. It was pretty bad but I got my bent rim repaired and it got a lot better, but it's still there. I'm thinking either my bent rim wasn't properly/fully repaired or maybe when I installed my strut assemblys I didn't rotate the mount correctly. Is a slight highway wobble a sign of improperly seated strut mounts?
There is a marking on the strut bearing that is supposed to point to the front of the car. But I don't know if this would cause a wobble.
To test the rim, swap it with one from the rear of the car. Because a bad rim/tire on the rear is not as noticeable, this should tell if the rim has a problem.
I'm not new here but I have searched and searched and searched. Does anyone know the part number for an 02-03 Maxima manual shift ****? I can't find it on google or on this site. Also the shifter boot too.
I'm not new here but I have searched and searched and searched. Does anyone know the part number for an 02-03 Maxima manual shift ****? I can't find it on google or on this site. Also the shifter boot too.
There are 4 part numbers for the 2002 shift ****:
32865-0M001 - Production Dates 01/2001 - 06/2001
32865-40U15 - Production Dates 01/2001 - 06/2001
32865-4Y915 - Production Dates 01/2001 - 06/2001
32865-5Y710 - Production Dates 06/2001 - 12/2002
For the 2003:
32865-5Y710
There are 2 boots, a rubber one below the console that covers the hole in the chassis and an upper one that is above the console covering the shift lever just below the shift ****.
I am assuming that the upper boot is the one you are asking about. This boot is part of the plastic plate that surrounds the shift lever - not available separately.
For the 2002:
96935-5Y000 - Production Dates 01/2001 - 06/2001
96935-5Y800 - Production Dates 06/2001 - 12/2002
96935-6Y300 - Production Dates 04/2002 - 12/2002 (out of production and hard to find)
for the 2003:
96935-6Y300 - Production Dates 04/2002 - 12/2003 (out of production and hard to find)
96935-5Y800 - Production Dates 01/2002 - 12/2003
Hey Guys. I Have been staying tied up with other projects, and haven't been on in a while since my maxima has been kicking along fine. However, I had to replace an alternator on account of a leaky valve cover. as I looked, I found the plug seals to be leaking as well, so I am searching for new covers. I remember that everyone was buying replacements for a different model through Dave B, But I haven't been able to contact him. What's the current common solution to this problem these days?
Hey Guys. I Have been staying tied up with other projects, and haven't been on in a while since my maxima has been kicking along fine. However, I had to replace an alternator on account of a leaky valve cover. as I looked, I found the plug seals to be leaking as well, so I am searching for new covers. I remember that everyone was buying replacements for a different model through Dave B, But I haven't been able to contact him. What's the current common solution to this problem these days?
people have been getting 6th gen valve covers because they are made differently. They used to be real cheap, but then Nissan figured out that people were using them on the 5th gen and jacked the price way up.
As for Dave Burnett, he got laid off from the dealer he worked at way back in 2011. He couldn't find another dealer to hire him, so he has moved on, away from Nissan. He said he arranged for another dealer to give a pricing break to maxima.org people - Gunn Nissan in San Antonio, Texas, Rusty Myler 210-496-0806 rmyler@gunnauto.com. I have no idea if they still give us a discount.
Another place with good prices is nissanpartsasap.com. That is TRI-CITIES NISSAN, INC. in JOHNSON CITY, TN 877-758-9852
There is also Courtesy Nissan in Richardson TX, courtesyparts.com
Anyone help with direction on this?
2000 Maxima Se...had the P0320 code and replaced all ignition coils with OEM. Then p0325 code and found the knock sensor wiring broke. Then dreaded p1320 code appeared but running much better . Week later, not well and gave to dealer (not my car) running on 5 cylinders.
Dealer states it is "wiring...coils tested good but two coils were only getting signal on two out of three prongs" - does this sound correct? While dealer was on test drive, he stated trans is going out. During the driving I did at high rpms (over 4200) it would not shift but shifts with no issue at lower rpms.
Can anyone give me some direction? (dealer quoted $135 for full diagnostics and now states $270 to diagnose wiring). Lost all trust in them at the moment.
Anyone help with direction on this?
2000 Maxima Se...had the P0320 code and replaced all ignition coils with OEM. Then p0325 code and found the knock sensor wiring broke. Then dreaded p1320 code appeared but running much better . Week later, not well and gave to dealer (not my car) running on 5 cylinders.
Dealer states it is "wiring...coils tested good but two coils were only getting signal on two out of three prongs" - does this sound correct? While dealer was on test drive, he stated trans is going out. During the driving I did at high rpms (over 4200) it would not shift but shifts with no issue at lower rpms.
Can anyone give me some direction? (dealer quoted $135 for full diagnostics and now states $270 to diagnose wiring). Lost all trust in them at the moment.
Thanks for the help and time.
I have found that as a rule, the dealer can diagnose a problem like nobody else. The reason is that dealers have the tool (Consult II) that independent mechanics don't; Consult II allows them to pinpoint the problem with high accuracy. The only issue is that their hourly rate is high; it is $160/hr here in the Bay area. I have also found that the dealers - at least in my area - have been recently (last 2 yrs or so) trying very hard. I did have two problems diagnosed with excellent results, and in very professional manner.
Re. your problem: Is it possible you damaged the wiring/connectors when you replaced your coils? How long have you had the car? Any mods on it? And who/how was the knock sensor wiring damaged?
At any rate: If it were me, I would pay them to diagnose the problem (and all other problems on your car). However, I would try to negotiate for a reasonable one-shot payment. Subsequently, you can decide how to fix the problem, and whether to do it yourself or use your mechanic, or the dealer.
Hello everyone. I'm a newbie. Purchased a 2000 Maxi last week. I'm going through the car, component, by component, to replace things on the front/rear end.
I did the front end strut assemblies, no problem. The front is now. Perfect.
The rear of the vehicle, bounces all over the place. So. I replaced the rear end strut assemblies (strut,spring,mount etc...), with new ones. KYB to be specific.
It rides better over all. But. The rear of the vehicle, still bounces all over the place, when, going over uneven road surfaces. It likes to bounce, across the rear of the vehicle, going from left to right.
Anyone, have any suggestions, as to, what It might be ??
How do I go about cleaning the inside of the connector of my camshaft position sensor? The ORing had become stiff and it was leaking oil so I replaced it. Apparently some oil has gotten into the connector. I think this is in part what is causing my SES, TCS OFF and SLIP lights to turn on with the P1320 code. I tried to sop up some of the oil with a paper towel but that did not do a good enough job.
How do I go about cleaning the inside of the connector of my camshaft position sensor? The ORing had become stiff and it was leaking oil so I replaced it. Apparently some oil has gotten into the connector. I think this is in part what is causing my SES, TCS OFF and SLIP lights to turn on with the P1320 code. I tried to sop up some of the oil with a paper towel but that did not do a good enough job.
How do I go about cleaning the inside of the connector of my camshaft position sensor? The ORing had become stiff and it was leaking oil so I replaced it. Apparently some oil has gotten into the connector. I think this is in part what is causing my SES, TCS OFF and SLIP lights to turn on with the P1320 code. I tried to sop up some of the oil with a paper towel but that did not do a good enough job.
Any suggestions?
After you clean the connector with some type of cleaner as maxiiiboy suggested, go a step further and liberally coat the inside of the connector with light bulb grease. You can get a small packet at autozone for a buck.
OK got a p0462 code in my 03 maxima. Autozne and Napa don't show any parts for this. Just says fuel level sensor low volt for the code. Just don't know what part I need to replace??????
OK got a p0462 code in my 03 maxima. Autozne and Napa don't show any parts for this. Just says fuel level sensor low volt for the code. Just don't know what part I need to replace??????
You need to replace the fuel level float unit in the gas tank.
the unit in the gas tank contains the float, the gas filter and the fuel pump. Many places will try and sell you the entire assembly, but you can get just the part you need.
10-11-2015, 09:34 PM
Oh and I'm not sure if what I'm experiencing at idle is really called pinging. What I notice is that occasionally the engine will sort of putter. I can see and hear the RPMs fluctuate too.
