Hello, this is my first post on this forum so I apologize if this is posted wrong. I have a 2000 base model automatic Maxima with roughly 160k miles on it. For approximately the last 3 years, it has been making an awful grinding noise after I put load on the engine (acceleration and uphill mainly) and I take my foot off of the gas a bit as well as during some climbs. The noise is particularly pronounced in 2nd gear. It seems to be coming from the front passenger side of the car. Has anyone else encountered this problem or have any insight? I love my car but this noise is killing me so any info would be much appreciated. Thanks!

 

I can't think of any part of the car that could make a grinding sound for 3 years and not have self destructed. I wonder if you have an exhaust leak. There is a section of flexible pipe where the 2 sections of the exhaust y-pipe come together under the passenger's feet. This flexible pipe has a reputation for leaking.

 

A code for my catalytic converter has been going off for a few years now when I take it to the shop. The engine purrs and sounds great when revved in park or neutral (bad for the car, I know) and there is no grinding, the noise only happens when I'm driving. I live in California so will it be expensive to replace the Y-pipe because of all of the smog codes? Thanks for your help!

 

These cars have 3 catalytic converters and one of them is built into the y-pipe. It is the bank 1 pre-cat. Bank 1 is the firewall side of the engine. If this is the one causing the code, you will have to replace it sooner or later. But find out if the flexible section of the y-pipe is leaking so that any planning you do is done with all the facts.

 

new guy with an important question..

2000 maxima gle 3.0,, cannot get the check engine light to turn off.. problem codes indicate coil packs.. it would idle very very roughly.. trouble codes indicated ignition coils... replaced coil packs with aftermarket... light went off and idle issue resolved for only a short time, maybe a couple thousand miles.. light came back on and rough idle issue came back.. trouble codes indicated ignition coils.. replaced aftermarket coils with genuine nissan.. replaced MAF.. replaced cam sensor.. idle issue went away and car was running good for about a couple thousand mile but check engine light still on.. initially changed the coils myself using aftermarket parts.. then took it to the dealer who changed MAF and cam sensor.. however that did not work so they told me i had to use genuine nissan coils.. i purchased genuine coils and replaced them again myself..
today, however, the car had no response when trying to accelerate although idle was OK, and was unable to climb a small to medium mountain road.. i had to pull off the road because the car would not climb.. i know the motor mounts need to be replaced.. could the electronic motor mounts be causing these issues and burning out my ignition coils or other electronic components?

 

All six, of my coil packs are aftermarket, my 2000 Maxima idles perfect.
The dealer, is, Always going to try and jam you up with purchasing dealer parts,
for a, LOT more $.

In my opinion, you could have a short somewhere, maybe the IACV, or TPS.
Or. God forbid. You could have a shorted out ECM.

I would try the IACV first. You can find one on EBAY $34.00 new,

http://www.ebay.com/itm/162143914339?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
The Front/Rear Motor mounts, not going to short out your coil packs,
but, could, short out your ECM.

 

The motor mounts will not cause any other problems, they only affect themselves.

What check engine code(s) are you getting? Are you getting P0300 (multiple misfires) along with a P030x (x = 1 through 6) codes or are you getting the deadly P1320 code?

Link to the service manual for these codes:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2000.5/EC.pdf

For the P030x codes, page 378 list these things as possible causes:
* Ignition coil
* Improper spark plug
* Insufficient compression
* Incorrect fuel pressure
* The injector circuit is open or shorted
* Injectors
* Intake air leak
I The ignition secondary circuit is open or shorted
* Lack of fuel
* Drive plate or flywheel
* Heated oxygen sensor 1 (front)

For the P1320 code, page 585 list these things as possible causes:
* Harness or connectors (the ignition primary circuit is open or shorted.)
* Power transistor unit built into ignition coil
* Condenser
* Crankshaft position sensor (REF)
* Crankshaft position sensor (REF) circuit

Here is a link to a thread about someone with a similar problem to yours:
https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...unting-me.html

 

Hi everyone can any tell me if the Greddy revolution RS universal exhaust muffler will bit and sound well on my 01 Nissan Maxima SE

 

Brought home a neglected ’02 Maxima SE auto trans with 95K over the Labor Day weekend. New to this forum, and to the brand & make, I’d appreciate any & all guidance in helping me achieve my goal of nursing my “rescue” find back to good health and a place in the family as a valued, reliable secondary vehicle.

Having purchased from the original owner/sole driver, I know the car has had long periods of inactivity beginning in 2007 (including just 3K in last 12 months), but claimed regular oil changes, along with non-premium gas usage, and a last oil change @ 90K with Mobil 1 synthetic installed. Driver’s side accident (sideswiped) in 2015 resulted in significant body damage, but frame unaffected. Within the last 2 weeks a SES light/misfire/rough idle, and subsequent $1800 dealer proposed fix (ignition coil/plug replacement) prompted the owner’s punt.

Initial assessment: 3 bad ignition coils, spark plug service required at 105K, trans fluid (never changed), oil change. Tires good (new at 80K), brakes good (new @ 90K with recond. calipers), clean interior, need front fender, fix to un-working driver’s door latch (door opens from inside latch), rear bumper.

For the misfire fix, I intend to forgo dealer in favor of a local mechanic willing to install my supplied parts: Hitachi IGC006 ignition coils (qty 6), NGK 6240 PLFR5A-11 Laser Platinum spark plug (qty 6), Fel-Pro MS 96471 Upper Intake/Plenum Gasket set, and a WIX air filter 46116. Total parts $356 (all Amazon fulfillment). Labor 3 hours @ $95 ea = labor $285. All done $641.

As the rescue begins, any thoughts, opinions, guidance would be very appreciated. With my sincere thanks.

 

Okay, I will put it up on a lift and check it out. Thanks again DennisMik!

 

Hey guys I have an 03 SE 6MT and I have a slow crank that is intermittent but always turns over. I know I will be taking it to napa or somewhere to get my charging/starting system checked but I don't believe its my battery because my car will sit 3-5 days without being started and still turns over so my first start is a failing starter. Trying to figure out if there is anything else I can do to determine if there is anything else I can do to help isolate the problem.

 

Thats way to long to do that. Any mechanic can do that in less than an hour start to finish. I did mine in less than an hour in my car port.
If you are anywhere near eastern North Carolina I can do it for you

 

Thanks for your offer - if I wasn't outside Boston, I'd take you up on it. I'll go back to the shop that quoted me 2.8 hours and work something out. I appreciate your counsel on it - sounds as if you just saved me 2 hours of excessive labor charges. Thanks.

 

New to the Boston area and this forum, looking for a referral to a trusted mechanic to work on my 02 maxima. Need a body shop/man as well. I'm in Reading, Mass., 10 miles north of downtown Boston, but will travel if you've got a guy for me. TIA

 

Removed intake to replace detonation sensor - P0325. I'm seeing remnants of oil around the inside of the timing chain case - re seal, rebuild, or just swap with used engine?
It could be fuel because my oil smelled like fuel. I couldn't determine whether it was exhaust related or Detonation sensor related.




Re-Seal the timing chain case too?

 

Newb question but what would be a good brake kit to put on an 02 maxima? Rotors + calipers? Appreciate any help.

 

Front
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/PWR-KC091-26

Rear
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/PWR-KC1169-26

 

Appreciate the help man, seen those before but didn't know how they perform & last.

 

Had those on for about a year now and they have taken every bit of the abuse I have put them through. The fronts are the 6th gen upgrade and man its well worth it for the extra stoping power, 10x less brake fade, and no longer havig to deal with warping rotors

 

I'm going to try and keep this as short as possible and keep it current to avoid a tangent haha.
Specs:
- 2003 Nissan Maxima GLE
- Around 125K Miles total
- ALWAYS get oil changed between 2.5 and 4K miles. I'm a creature of habit.
- Valve cover crack (Rear cover/closest to passenger cab) at 115K miles: New cover, 3 new coils and all new plugs came soon after. Crack shot oil everywhere which illicited the new coils/plugs.
- After the crack, had to pull over and check everything out but couldn't isolate issue. Experience blinking self-service light. Very very rough acceleration and idling.
- Before valve cover crack, never had any issues ever, i've been driving it since 80K and before my parents have had it since probably 40K (They never had any real issues either)
- After repair and tune up, Maxima never ran better
- About 3 or 4 months ago (Crack came about 8 months ago) I went to start the car and after three attempts the engine finally turned and I got a bad backfire then moved it 60 feet as per my reason for even starting it in the first place, needed some oil but that's it
- Ever since I've driven it around 4-6 days a week at but even after a flawless start every time, it either starts very rough or completely fine. There has been absolutely no change in performance during both stages during this 3 to 4 month period so I haven't taken my car in yet. (see end of post for explanation, no one likes a Nissan abuser)
- Acceleration is rough aside from between 2.5 and 4.5K RPM or so and seems to get worse once I approach 45/50MPH regardless of RPM and Idling is rough but this randomly switches between the state I have spoken of and running perfectly again
- This random switch is not related to oil, gas in tank, engine temp, last time driven, or any other factors I have taken special care to notice in this time

My best assumptions have been:
- faulty intake valve timing control solenoid
- faulty throttle control sensor
- faulty ignition coils of those that weren't replace (Doubtful, both valve covers were removed and addressed, only one had cracked)
- jostled or faulty wiring on the first two items

I usually have an alternate vehicle to drive if I was to get help from a friend or put the maxima in the shop but I haven't had one and don't now. My only current option is to take it into the shop but because my mechanic doesn't mark up prices and doesn't charge much for labor, his garage is always packed. I can't be without a vehicle for 4-8 days depending on what the particular issue is or if its a combination of multiple issues. If I can get a good idea of what the problem is, I may be able to fix it myself (or with help from my father/friends if it isn't complicated) or at least be able to tell the garage owner what it probably is before I take it in as to rush the process along.

Thanks for any replies or conjectures. Take care

 

Sorry for the double post, but this is a separate topic really.

After I found out my valve cover had cracked I did some research and it appears that it is a pretty common issue within the 5th gen Maximas and even a couple years beyond. I can't remember all the details but I remember that with the 2003 I have, the stock cover is hella expensive.

The typical cover failure apparently occurs at around 50K miles but mine was at 115K. I was curious if anyone else with a 5th gen has experienced this also? It caused so much damage beyond just a expensive replacement.

 

I have a question about valve covers. The research I've done tells me when I see oil in the spark plug wells I have to change the valve cover. I see oil in cylinder #4 so I have to change the valve cover that cost more. Everyone says upgrade to 6th gen valve covers but when looking on courtesy, it seems they list 5th and 6th gen valve covers with the same part# and the one i need is about $180. Is there a better place where I can get it price wise?

Update: forgot to specify I have 03 maxima.

 

I have seen elsewhere on this forum and a couple other places that some 5th/6th Gen valve covers are interchangeable.
Thread here: https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...er-advise.html

I had to replace my cover recently, I didn't do it myself so I don't know the year, but I'm pretty sure it was the stock-equivalent for my 2003 and it was 125$... I know there are cheaper alternatives.
The thread I referenced mentioned a 130$ to 35$ difference for an 02 replaced with 04 covers.

Good luck.

 

.
I just did mine in the 01 max. The thing about these is the tube seals have to be flush with the VC's. I needed a pry bar to pry them out!

To get the new in ones they have to be flush like the old ones were. I thought about a long bolt 4"-6" and constructing a home made press with a series of washers. You could just tighten the bolt and the seal should press right in. The pressure is put on the outside of the VC as the washer presses the new tube seal in on the inside.
I got a 32mm socket and smacked each on in but if I had to do it all over I'd make a press with a bunch of washers.

 

I have seen that thread. It looks like nissan raised prices on the valve covers. Do you know where whoever did it for you got the valve covers

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...iglink20459-20

Has anyone ever used this brand? The oem one is like twice as much and they said they give a year warranty if it starts to leak.

 

I have a 2000 Automatic SE and I am hearing some rattling in the engine and I need to replace the motor mounts. I called Napa today and they said that they only see that a front/passenger side motor mount is installed on this model. However, I checked ALLDATA, and that says that I have 4 motor mounts: front, rear, passenger side and trans. Which is correct? Napa or ALLDATA? Thanks for your help.

 

front, rear, passenger side and trans

it's generally recommended to replace the front/rear AT mounts with MT ones. the AT ones are electronically controlled and under the right (wrong?) circumstances have been reported to short the ECM.

 

As stated above, there are 4 mounts. Well, 3 motor mounts and a trans mount.

Many have used the $99 ebay package deal with good results. Just note that the ebay one is not electronically controlled as it uses the manual mounts. They will work fine in your car if you're ok with a little vibration.

 

I bought the ebay specials and they work great. The only difference is the is a little extra vibration in the steering wheel when sitting at a stop light. If i didnt have 2 maximas l wouldnt really of noticed it

 

Nice noob question for yall. In the 3.5, where should I put the RTV when changing the front valve cover. I believe it is in some corner but not really sure which ones. Just some better direction would help. Also, will it be the same for the rear? Haven't determined if I will need to change the rear valve cover but assuming I will because I found the original plugs in the front when I changed them.

 

Fair enough question.

See the picture at the bottom of page 31

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2003/EM.pdf

 

Hello all! I searched on google and on the forum, but did not find what I was looking for...so here it goes. I have a 02 Maxima with 165k on the engine. The car is very slow, like driving a 4-cylinder. I bought it from a friend of mine for a steal ($500), and he said that the cats and O2 sensors have been replaced, tune up and new s-belt, replaced engine because the last one blew (but had the same issue), trans checked, no codes either. We tried replacing the fuel pump, but none of the new components worked (and we tried every combination of parts), so only the old pump w/ old components work; and there are no dash lights on either. So...anyone have an idea of what on earth is going on?

 

Is it stuttering or anything or just slow?

 

Its slow, and when you start it you have to keep it cranking to get it to start. Plus the idle is really rough. I had a fuel system cleaning done with no results as well.

 

I have a question concerning r34 Skyline style wheels:

Does anyone know of any wheels similar to the look of the r34 Skyline wheels or possibly replicas that won't break the bank? I am new here, so any input is appreciated! Thanks!

Similar to these? [ATTACH][/ATTACH]

 

Hello....I have just purchased a 2001, and am just wondering if the steering wheel controls for the stereo and cruise control should be lit at night. Mine aren't. If they should be, is this an easy fix?

Thanks in advance!

 

Nobody's controls are illuminated. Nissan didn't think of that.

 

Thanks Dennis...much appreciated.

 

Got a question for y'all, have a 2001 maxima with a starting issue. Cranks and I'm getting fuel have already replaced csps, iacv, maf, all vacuum lines, redid gaskets on top end along with radiator hoses. It cranks but doesn't always wanna start. Sometimes it will crank 3 times and start and sometimes I can crank it like 10 mins straight with no result, runs damn good only a small misfire while idling. Doesn't do it constantly. Should I focus on coil packs and plugs next or injectors? Just trying to get this thing running solid so I can start dumping money in mods not maintenance. Thanks in advance guys