thanks i didn't find the clips for the lower engine cover, the site is missing a few specific parts but it does have 95% of what I'm looking for.

 

I am installing Alpine- type S components in the front of my 5.5... It comes with an inline crossover. What I need to do is connect one end of the crossover to the tweeter and one end to the woofer. I'm sure you guys know where the tweeter mount is and where the woofer hole is. I was wondering where I could run the wire through from the tweeter mount to the woofer mount. I was thinking the door but I'm not exactly sure..

 

www.nissanpartsasap.com has nice blow up part diagrams.

 

I should do this install too...

Put the crossover in the kickpanel. Run the tweeter line straight up. Then run the woofer line into the door. You'll have to drill if you don't want to tap.

 

I think I got this .

Without drilling I tap the crossover line into tweeter line, correct? Where would I run it through?

 

For the source of the xover, you need a full range signal, so you can't tap the tweeter line. The wires should be in the pack running from front to back, under the carpet. Speaker wires are a twisted pair. When you pull off the kickpanel you'll see a square block of foam. Pull that out and drill through the car. Then slit the rubber wire loom and feed your wire into that, which then goes into the door for your woofer. In the 5th gen there is no way to run new wire into the door without drilling.

Personally if you're running components I wouldn't tap. I run fresh wire into each door directly from the amp. If your comps are amped then I DEFINITELY would use fresh wire.

 

There is already wire from my 4 channel. Last set of components blew out and I'm just replacing. Everything is hooked up and working except for the crossover which I'm stumped on.

 

Then it should be straight forward - just mimic what was previously done.

 

So i finally got my maxima on the road but i noticed something i did not like today, whenever i accelerate the engine makes a rattle sound mostly when I'm going uphill. This has happened to me in many cars I've had and it really bothers me and I've never had an idea of what causes it or what could be wrong. The car is an 03 SE with 155k and it has no CEL and idle is perfect but it never fails every time i hit the gas after a few seconds i hear rattling under the hood and i can tell its not suspension related because it happens over any road surface. Does anybody know what could be my problem? This is scaring me a bit considering i JUST bought the car last week.

 

Could be rusted exhaust heat shield rattling.

 

My heat shield is very rusted yes but then it would rattle all the time when the car is moving not specifically when i hit the gas.

 

When you give it gas, the engine move a little bit more because of "torque" causing it to rattle more. It might make same rattle if you are to "power braking" it.

 

ahhh i see, you might have something there. Im gonna lift it up at my mechanic and see if i can rattle the shield on my own while the car is cold see if thats it i hope its nothing engine related.

 

dude dont go crazy!! i just bought my car in february, a 2003 maxima and i had the same problem, i used 87 gas and it rattles at 2000 RPMS, this is called engine pinging, look it up !, i used 93 and i ran about 5 tanks of it and no more noise!! i must have used some really cheap gas!

 

YES!! Thats the exact noise i hear its a loud pinging from the engine, I knew it had something to do with the engine itself thanks a lot bro i will fill up with 93 a few times to see if that fixes things. wheeewww lol

 

Aren't our cars suppose to use premium gas??

Anyway, is there a 'safe' way to remove the clips along the lining of the trunk lid? I'm planning to lay on some deadener on, but I've broken so many of these tabs in the past I want to make sure I don't screw any of these up.

 

Do they have a philips screw head or are they the pop-clip type?

 

pop-clip

 

Are they two piece or one piece?

 

Post a pic. What you're saying doesn't make sense.

 

Your link doesn't take into account that some people might not be using Safari.

Also, I said post a pic, not a search query.

 

 

I had a feeling those were it, those are the standard clips that hold the trunk lining in.

They are two piece. It's a screw/pop combination.

Use a small flathead and a regular philips head. Using the flathead, hold the side of the clip - the round part, prevent it from spinning. Using the philips head, unscrew the top. You'll see a gap appear. Then use the flathead to increase the gap, continue to unscrew the top until it raises a bit more and won't raise anymore. Then remove it like a pop-clip.

Use finesse, not force.

 

Tseng1023 - those clips require a 1/4 turn to unlock them, and make the center stem (the part you turned) to pop up. Then you pull the entire clip out of the hole. Sometimes the center stem doesn't pop up by itself and you will have to pull up on the stem before you can pull the clip out of the hole.

 

Got it, thanks guys

 

great thread, many simple questions answered.

 

My car makes a really bad clunking sound coming from the front suspension when i go over pot wholes, from my experience it sounds like the sway bar is moving but i heard the strut mounts are also a common issue with our cars. I recently ordered the front sway bar links and bushings from the dealer hoping that fixes my problem do you guys have any idea of what this clunking sound could be? (03 3.5L)

 

anybody?

 

It could also be a motor mount.

 

Hello guys, quick question:

I found some really nice 225/60R16 tires for free. Can I use them on my maxima 2001 GXE (I really need a tire change) ?

I tried the tire calculator and it's about 1.5 inch more diameter, and 5% difference fro stock.

I can put up with the wrong speedometer, but are there any other things I should consider, like turning and handling of the car? Any safety issues?

btw, I'm currently running on 215/60R16 which are bigger than stock anyway...

Thanks

 

Shoulda gone Moog/Energy Suspension.

 

 

Anyone?

 

They're about 0.77" taller than the stock SE 225-50-17's.

They will be fine. If you're lowered, they might rub slightly, taller gearing and softer (thicker sidewall) are the only items I can think of.

 

I noticed that my "service engine soon" light IS NOT COMING ON!

I am doing like it says in the owner's manual, and I see all the different lights/symbols except for the service engine light....

I don't know what to do. I should see it when the key car is in the ON position, correct? What if it is supposed to be ON for some reason...


PS Thanks NmexMAX for the reply.

 

If the car starts and runs fine, the simplest answer is that the bulb is burned out.

There are a bunch of picture series on the org on how to do this.

 

I ran a search ("remove cluster" on 5th gen forum) and found different threads that I read... I just want to confirm some things before I unscrew something.

1) The 2 famous screws to remove first are at the top of the gauges, on the underside of the top trim of the cluster, correct?

2) After removing the 2 screws, I have to take out the plastic trim around the cluster, correct? But there are switches on that plastic trim, light the dimmer and TCS...
Only then I can see the other 3 screws, right? (not before?)

3) How to I know where the SES light is located, are there indications on the back, green circuit board?

4) I also read BT 28-31 and they talk about airbags. Is one of the connectors I remove from the cluster airbags, or do I have to do any separate procedures for that?

5) I understand from different threads that the bulb is a T6.5, and it's hard to find that bulb. Can I just take out the handbrake bulb and put it in the SES for now?

Thanks. Sorry if these are newb questions but I'm worried about this since I learned that a new cluster is 700$. Don't wan to mess up something, but can't spend money on a new one either.

 

That's not exactly true. If he has a failing O2 or cat, he will not likely feel a difference in the vehicle.

 

Ok I did some more digging last night after work and found this excellent tut with pics:
http://gtamaxima.darkbb.com/t295-chr...ritten-by-will

But I'm still not clear on Q 3-4-5 if someone can help.

 

But if the bulb were working, it would be on then.

If you're going to pull the instrument cluster, just replace all the bulbs and be done with it.
There is a link here to the factory service manual that outlines how to handle this, but the summary is that whenever you work near airbag wiring you need to disconnect the battery and leave it disconnected for some time before commencing work.
See above.