When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm lucky nothing bad happened because I let mine rot enough for the support to drop a couple inches. I noticed that my engine was moving back and forth a bit. After paying $450 to have a new support welded in, everything looks and feels just fine. Just don't take it to a ripoff dealer body shop. It shouldn't cost more than $500 for a decent fix.
I'm lucky nothing bad happened because I let mine rot enough for the support to drop a couple inches. I noticed that my engine was moving back and forth a bit. After paying $450 to have a new support welded in, everything looks and feels just fine. Just don't take it to a ripoff dealer body shop. It shouldn't cost more than $500 for a decent fix.
Planning on doing it myself in my buddies heated garage. Should probably get extra fasteners beforehand because I'm SURE I'll need them.
I'm lucky nothing bad happened because I let mine rot enough for the support to drop a couple inches. I noticed that my engine was moving back and forth a bit. After paying $450 to have a new support welded in, everything looks and feels just fine. Just don't take it to a ripoff dealer body shop. It shouldn't cost more than $500 for a decent fix.
Its not fun talking to the idiot body shops around here.. All of them claim to have to drain the radiator and the AC to do this job. Just makes you want to pull your hair out.
Originally Posted by comingup
What I did to my old car...not sure what piece I welded it to but it's part of the bumber and seemed solid enough when I did it. Still holding up too.
i've done over 100 of these.....the 2000-2003 maxima are actually worse.....i've seen some really nice ones with only 50k miles rusted to nothing. Good old Maine winters and Nissan cutting corners. Guys...if you are gonna replace it......do weld it.....doesn't need much but it should be done. Ever brought something to a welder to have work done? THose guys charge rediculously cheap money. Do it right, do it once.
I was wondering what type of welder ? Mig or Tig ? And would you have any pictures of the finished welding of the part ?
Also anyone ever use the spray expanding foam Great Stuff product - builders use for windows to fill in the support so it does not rust out again ?
Figured I'd check in. I never welded mine almost six years ago, and it's been absolutely rock solid. I even got into a front-end collision and it did not move at all.
As to salvaging this part off of a wreck, don't bother. Even if it was in perfect condition, it will look like Swiss cheese after you drill out all of the spot welds.
Buy a new FACTORY replacement (I have since seen aftermarket ones and they are VERY thin), and bolt it up with the six bolts (that hold on the toe hooks) and call it done.
From looking at the support, and how it mates up to the chassis, I can't figure out why welding is even needed. I plan on putting a few welds in here and there, but I can't help but think they serve no purpose.
The welds I would imagine are in the event of a collision. if the collision is bad enough the welds prevent the bolts from snapping which would make the collision damage worse right?
The welds I would imagine are in the event of a collision. if the collision is bad enough the welds prevent the bolts from snapping which would make the collision damage worse right?
I have been running with no welds at all for years now, and was even in a front end collision. The welds are completely optional, and lend no structural support to the front end.
I have been running with no welds at all for years now, and was even in a front end collision. The welds are completely optional, and lend no structural support to the front end.
What about jacking the front end up? Do you jack at the crossmember, or somewhere else?. Only concern would be trusting your life with aging radiator support bolts rather than welds.
I have been running without the welds for 2 years now and no issues whatsoever. Don't forget that the radiator support is held on each side with 2 17mm bolts to the frame which is more than enough. Also it will last at least 10 years before it starts rusting, so the whole configuration is way stronger than when I was running for a year with severed in the middle radiator support. So if you have to do this job, don't bother welding. Forgot to mention that I always lift my car up on the crossmember with my 3 ton jack and no problemo there whatsoever.
OK, thanks. I'm going to try it with the OEM lower. To confirm, the factory welds are only around the 2 box like structures? Do I need an air chisel, or will it come off reasonably easy with a prybar after drilling?
Use only OEM lower!!. There are so many welds that it will take you hours and hours to drill and chisel. But don't worry all of them can be reached either with drill or the chisel. Just hammer away and don't worry. The car is stronger than you think. Use leather gloves since it will be sharp metal you are dealing with. And don't get in discouraged if you brake any of the bolts - drill them away, tap and put new ones. I had to use vice grips and my son to pull out the 2 crossmember bolts and some of the 17 mm bolts on the side. But again I live in the true north (Canada) and the car is bathed in salt for 6 months of the year. I used no air tools.
Can get the OEM lower for approx $183 locally This is a NE car given away for free by the PO. I towed it away with it "only" needing a alternator. The alternator was a epic disaster. Had to partially pull the engine because of a stripped idler pulley bolt. Doing that I find this. Literally very nut and bolt is like butter. Snaps right off. I've never had so many issues doing anything on a car. Ugh, no wonder the car was free. But I'm stubborn, so I'm gonna get this thing on the road or else lol
Ok. If you have experience with this you will be ok. One thing you don't need to worry about - the 6 or so bolts that the support is being held to the frame and the crossmember will not break. I put so much force on them - with 2 feet extension pipe etc. and they held on, and eventually came off. I only used tap to clean the threads and reused them.
What about jacking the front end up? Do you jack at the crossmember, or somewhere else?. Only concern would be trusting your life with aging radiator support bolts rather than welds.
You’re only trusting your radiator to it. The part is aptly named: radiator support. It supports the radiator and has a motor mount on it. I don’t see how even a total failure could result in loss of life.
I jack my car up all the time using the crossmember that attaches to the radiator support; no issues ever.
Honestly if this thing would work I would go for it. Check to see if your rad support has only rusted in the middle or also on the sides. Mine was also on the left side, so it would not have been very strong patch in that case. If only in the middle go for it. Also knowing that our cars are 20+ years old, if you can buy 2-3 years life for it, why not. It took me good 10 hours to do everything right on mine and this thing might bring it down to 3-4 hours of work.
Tore it apart this morning to find out. Nope, in my shadow is a rotted crack at the end so the whole thing has to go. Note the chunk of Bondo on the ground one of the PO used to hide the problem.
So, after reading through some posts I should start drilling? Or get the sawzall and cut that middle out? Where should I start?
Start drilling and chisling. No need to cut it in the middle. Put some jack to hold the crossmember in place. And put some bunjies to hold the radiator to the upper radiator support. When you get tired of chisling work on the 6+ bolts. Start by spraying them heavily with loosening oil.
I tried a drill with similar shape, but it didn't cut as good as the normal drill, so did most of it with the normal ones. Here is your target - you have to see the 2 Ps
At the point where I decided to take the 2 crossmember bolts off and see whats moving. But of course they just free spinning in rust. So I cut a hole, cant get a wrench on anything. its all round and rotted. What to do?
Completely unrelated to OP but i dont see any other way to ask this question. How do i start a new thread>? I dont see a button anywhere and I would like to ask a question but IN MY OWN THREAD, help?
The 2 bolts bolt into the radiator support which has rusted. I remember using vice grips on the nut part before I removed completely the rad support, so the vice grip would butt into the remaining support and not spin. This way I put force from the bottom on the bolts an were able to extract them. Don't remember how I put the vice grips in the nut part, but I think my bar had rotted so much in the middle that I simply shoved it in. If yours is not totally rotted out maybe make an opening at the front.
Hey guys I started off asking about the OP's thread, but crossed the line into hijacking. I'm sorry. I'm continuing on my own thread over here if anyone wants to follow along or help me. https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...ml#post9163766
Hi:
Why were these supports so prone to rusting? Did they receive inadequate corrosion protection compared to other parts of the car? Mine are still in perfect shape but I also routinely wash the undercarriage after any encounter with snow and/or road salt.
Hi:
Why were these supports so prone to rusting? Did they receive inadequate corrosion protection compared to other parts of the car? Mine are still in perfect shape but I also routinely wash the undercarriage after any encounter with snow and/or road salt.
They don't have the same paint treatment as the doors/fenders, and these cars are almost 20 yrs old, plus most aren't as meticulous at washing there radiator support - except you, and me ! Mine is perfect, and I also live in the snow belt of NY.
