looks like culprits are, cam sensor, both crank sensors, possible need of additional ground traps, fuel pump and regulator.


I'm wondering if it wouldn't hurt to replace all 3 sensors and add/check grounds? any quick access easily seen spot to put a fuel pressure gauge or do i need to sit down with the FSM for awhile?


BTW alternator,starter and battery are all freshly rebuilt and upgraded.

 

Most likely it will be the crank sensor from what I've read on here. Not experienced that myself but apparently Hitachi is the only brand to use for them. When you find where to get a good price on Hitachi or even where available please post the info.

I've looked before and had a hard time finding Hitachi. Rockauto used to ha e them but not any more as far as I know.

 

free at the junkyard

 

i bought OEM and all 3, never looked back, been 3 years

 

Good question I was considering this I need one. Why doesnt AZ have one to rent?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/S-G-Tool-Aid-58625-11mm-Fuel-Rail-Pressure-Test-Adapter

 

both crank sensors and the MAF or fuel pump regulator and both crank sensors or just the one?

 

I just went through that problem and it was the front camshaft sensor connector. I replaced the connector and sensor. Start real fast now. I have not replaced the one crank sensor yet and probably won't unless it gives me some trouble

 

just was referring to Crank Postion senors and 2 Camshaft poistion sensors

 

anybody know what OEM brand these sensors are? shouldn't they be about $60 - $70 each?

i usually don't buy the cheaper parts but, OEM

 

https://maxima.org/forums/5th-generation-maxima-2000-2003/701715-who-oem-manufacturer-cam-sensors.html

 

well that covers the cam sensors, still can't find the crank sensor OEM brands.

EDIT: i see mitsubishi and nissan logos!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NISSAN-OEM-Engine-Crankshaft-Crank-Position-Sensor-CPS-2373131U11/262722886809?fits=Year%3A2001%7CModel%3AMaxima&epi d=1329941434&hash=item3d2b811c99%3Ag%3APnkAAOSwvYh a0J5m&_sacat=0&_nkw=2001+maxima+crank+sensor&_from =R40&rt=nc&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1312.R1.TR0.TRC0 .A0.H0.X2001+maxima+crank+sens.TRS1.TSS0

anyone tried aftermarket or dorman? Also what does one do for worn out pigtails on the harness, how does one replace that? extract the pins and to uncrimp and recrimp on to new wires using the old plastic casing of the connector (that sounds janky as hell)? you can buy cam pigtails but, not crank.

 

I replaced both connectors for $20. They were not OEM but they work just fine. I used OEM camshaft sensors

 

woah! where'd you get those connectors?

 

does the cranksensor and TPS use the same style connector?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Electrical-...cAAOSw0d9bQ7M9

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-Thro...0AAOSwpkFY6upi

 

Holly crow both crank and cam sensors OEM will be $400 USD if not more! that's probalby as much or more than a used engine!

 

they are about $80 a piece, they used to be sold in a KIT for a much better price, but since 15 years has past, for some reason the parts are individual now.

 

i was lucky to get the lower crank sensor for 75 but, the front/fly wheel side was $117 plus shipping unless you go aftermarket. That was deal compared to $170. i know the dealer would charge the same. probably still need to get cam sensors. guess i've bought the cow now! guess i'm gonna have to finally start hitting up junkyards to get LSD auto and rocker panels and wheel arches.

 

at least you know not to stoop to aftermarket, i just dealt with this on EVAP sensors, i should have known since I personally dealt w that on the CPS sensors too, and awe man dont remind me ! i am having trouble figureing out what to do with the rear quarters, cars vaule is so... low (on paper, not to me), on paper it seems crazy to fix to rear quaters at this point ... sigh...

i am lookin into universal fender flares and fabbing up something that way, to keep the quarters at bay...

 

Did the same and it's been about 5 yrs...No issues...Wanted to make sure that TSB regarding those three sensors didn't catch me ever again!

 

mine was replaced on the original TSB in dec 2003 from the first owner, and in 2014 they went bad, asked for OEM got napa, came back in a year, then finally used OEM, and been good!

side note, same problem on evap PVCV aftermarket, problems entire time, once replaced with OEM, problems went away.

 

well if you watch scotty kilmer or keep up with news you know things are being made to be hard to work on your self or that R134a is illegal now or will be, the new stuff requires 400 psi and a whole new evac/charge system to top off your A/C.

screw it, i guess i'll tear the thing down, do the body work and keep it stock looking and drop in double din touch screen, rear heated seats, all the goodies and a new interior and build my own "sleeper" car.

I'm just gonna need a boat load of money, time and another car to drive to work. i however have access to life, tools and experienced help.

....if the wheels don't fall off first. a number of parts i have been able to get on clearance like my all aluminum radiator. now all i need to do is figure out why the Brake and Battery lights are flicking on after driving for 10 minutes. wonder if the new alternator has regulator going out or the new belts breaking in.

 

last night it was a hard start and starting running ROUGH like it was missing, the CEL, SLIP and TCS lights and flashed on at the same exact time after a few moments. turned car off and on and few times and TCS OFF and SLIP when out. then on the highway this morning they came back on.


got codes: P0306 and P1320, i just brand new OEM sensors in and it has been driving fine aside from hard starts. i'm guessing MAYBE #6 cylinder coil pack/plug has been going causing part of the missing/timing during hard starts and maybe the new cam sensor went out? maybe i just need new plugs and packs and possibly a new fuel pump?

 

Both codes can be the coil. Have you pulled any coils out recently? They are two piece and can separate internally if they get stuck to the spark plug when you're pulling them out. Only way to find out is to pull it out and check the middle part with separates with a tug. Regardless I would probably buy a spare coil failure is pretty common. Use a Hitachi you can get them on Amazon

 

i've never touched the coils as long as i've owned the car.

 

Wow this is a cheap price for the OEM part. https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-OEM-Ignition-Coil-Fits-Nissan-Frontier-Pathfinder-More-22448-8J115-/222546542111

 

some listings list front and rear as if different? i bought one form your listing, i suspect possibly counterfeit the packing in the picture and the nissan label looks "off".


EDIT: definitely counterfeit as far as i know/can tell maybe nissan makes them different but, look at the brand of them and smooth top. the ones on my 01 do not have smooth tops. ended up being worn out spark plug anyways with the a gap the size of the grand canyon, vultures, tumbleweeds and all.