Those 2000 Altima SE wheels looks good...

 

I gotta find some of those Altima wheels...or some SER wheels...

 

thanks they are 2000-2003 Sentra se-r/ 2000-2001 Altima

http://www.allfactorywheels.com/prod...FQwcaQodi7cAEA

they were on when I bought the car, but thinking of finding another set for my 200sx.....

 

Next week will be PM week. Ordered Cardone right and left halfshafts, Raybestos ceramic pads front and rear, and a Gates timing belt and tensioner today. Rockauto, $210 shipped, have it all Friday. Advance Auto and AZ wanted almost $40 per set for the Raybestos pads!!

201,300 miles, she purrs like a well fed kitten, going to keep her that way...

 

be mindful of the half shafts and be sure they don't have a thing where the grease seal cover disk goes, the last couple I have gotten have had a thing there so you can't tighten the nut all the way down or it locks the wheel up, just figured out what it was, if they do and you can't take it off you will have to tighten the nut till it gets to the point that you can still rotate the hub. I have to pull mine apart again and see if I can take that off and put the OEM seal cover on.....

 

How far would you trust your 2nd gen???







total stats:
5093.7 miles
178.37 gallons of fuel
28.56 mpg
$531.37 for fuel
1/2 quart of oil
1 oil change
1/2 a small bottle of power steering fluid
1 heal light lens, think I took a rock from a trailer carrying a ATV that they didn't sweep off the trailer before getting on the road, just has a pin hole on the outside but can see where it blew out the glass on the inside, so now I need to find a passenger side head light

 

No issues on the half shaft swap, although that passenger side one is fun with that bearing carrier in the center of the car!! Put her up on ramps to get the clearance I needed underneath, removed the 3 carrier bolts, then jacked up the right side further to get the wheel off. Betcha they were the original axles, boots pretty torn up...but they still were in 1 piece!!

Interesting, my Haynes manual (not the best, but not bad) told me to drain the gear oil before doing the swap. $75 worth of Royal Purple, I was not in the mood to lose that chit, so stuck a pan under the tranny, and proceded onward. I MAYBE lost 1/8 of a cup of oil...

 

yea i'm running Red Line MT 90, and only had 20k on it, so I didn't drain it when I had to change my drivers side due to a rip in the boot when I got it from Rock Auto and I just patched it which worked for a while but then needed some duct tape and I didn't want to go on my trip with it like that....

yea those three bolts are kind of a pain, did you take the strut off or the ball joint?

 

Removed the 3 carrier bolts first (while the wheel was still on), then jacked up the right side, pulled the wheel, removed the ball joint mount, the shaft pulled out pretty easily. New one slid in pretty easily as well.

The timing belt? What a PITA!!! Another Haynes F up. They say to remove the inner splash panels in the fender well (should gain you some access). Guess what Haynes...there ARE no panels on the right side, it's all metal!! Sure, there's one on the left side, but if you look at a Haynes manual, you have to figure, based on their pics, that they did the timing belt with the motor pulled...so they just assumed there are panels on the right side. Oh well, I've got plenty of time, just taking my time. WP and stat housing off, surfaces cleaned up, new WP, new stat, new serpentine belt will go in. But timing (new belt) is today's objective. Hope to get it right...the first time!

 

New timing belt (Gates) went on, tightened the tensioner down, went through two revs of the crankshaft...no resistance!! WOO HOO, my marks were good! Slapped the WP, stat and stat housing in (tossed the gaskets, blue RTV), will tighten up tomorrow, then put her back together.

So the old girl got new axles, new pads all the way around, new tires (205/60-15 Falkens), timing belt, serpentine belt (WP and PS), new WP, new stat, new NGKs. On to the next 100K miles!!!

 

why yes it is, but yea you should have a splash shield, at least mine has one, you might be missing it unless the metal covers the crank pulley there should be a cover that goes over that area and goes back with part of it going over the cv shaft.....

64838-16E00

http://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts...html?PNC=64836


that part, if you have nothing between your tire and crank you might want to see if you can find one......

but it does get a lot easier once you have figured out how to get in there the next time since you have way more of a idea where and how to get to the bolts for the timing belt cover and how to get the top part of the cover out and all the fun little things like that......

 

ummmmmmmm might want to not go for 100k more like 60k then timing belt time again...... but yea timing belts and oil changes and i'm sure 100k more isn't a big deal....

 

well made it back from my second trip which was

3140.6 miles
111.91 gallons of fuel
$413.12 in fuel

now at 227,157 miles on her

 

Yes, basically what I meant, Vern. Obviously, the next timing belt is going to be a WHOLE lot easier than this one!!

 

I definitely do not miss doing timing belts. I still find myself fortunate that I lost the timing belt and didn't screw the motor up on my 2nd gen.....that was about 10 years ago now....

S

 

I also brought my plenum cover back to life. A huge thanks to TransAmBandit for saving me hours by sandblasting it for me.

 

grrrrrrr wheel bearings, thought I could get away with just putting my other set of knuckles in, but the bearings in those are also bad, so thats going to be my Sat....

 

I've been busy digging into the guts of my car. I've had a noise associated with the drive belts and for sure one idler pulley bearing is bad and the A/C pulley has a little bit of play.

In the process of fine tuning the idle, I believe the fast idle control solenoid is bad...with the correct warm idle set, turning on the A/C almost stalls the car, regardless of how much or little the adjuster screw is turned so I think I've discovered why it was high to begin with.

I still need to make a successful attempt at changing out the heater core (bypass elbow installed and not driven in winter) but I'm still trying to find a suitable offset screw driver to reach the screws on the side of the dash. Having just been laid off for a second time in 3 years, I guess I have a bit of time to hopefully get this car trustworthy.

 

Are those the 2 screws on the driver's side? I assume you've pulled the door trim off. If that doesn't allow a decent shot with a "normal" screwdriver, take a short phillips head bit, grind it WAY down so it's a real stubby, then use a needle nose vise grips to grab it tight and just start turning. I just looked at mine, and that is DEFINITELY doable...

 

Hell yeah!!!! There's two screws on either side and it's the passenger side where they were a bit more buried than the drivers side. Thanks for the tip...I definitely do think that's doable!!

 

delerium, you want to grind down the shank of the bit a LOT. As the screw backs out, it's going cause the bit to move closer to the door frame, and could wedge it up against the frame to where you can't get the screw and bit out.

You also might want to consider taking a die grinder and grinding a couple "reliefs" in the frame where the screws are to allow more room...or maybe even a straight shot with a normal screwdriver...

 

It was bittersweet when I inherited my Grandparents maxima this past year. They paid cash for it and bought it brand new in 1987. My grandfather took such good care of this car. Every time he drove the car he would pop the hood and raise it to cool the engine to preserve the wiring harness etc... My grandfather has since passed on and my grandmother quit really driving about four years ago. My mother let me get the car this past December and I have been fixing the little things Power steering pump was raising hell and I quieted that up with transx. I had the front rotors turned I scuffed the back rotors and I put ceramic pads on the brake calipers. I bought a new set of Michelins from Costco for it and I have been driving it to work. I got my old landlord to pull a vacuum and charge the ac system. He changed it to 134 without having to change fittings etc... and only charged me 75 bucks. The interior is spotless. I need to fix the passenger side mirror and it is time for a new timing belt.
I have changed the belt on a Toyota corolla but never on a maxima. I could use some advice/tips when I tackle this job.

 

biggest thing in changing the timing belt is going to be having the right tools to get to the bolts on the timing belt cover, there are a couple that you can't really see, a 1/4 ratchet with deep well or short extension comes in handy for those, you should do the water pump while you are in there.

if you have a impact wrench that will come in handy for the crank bolt or a 1/2 breaker bar which you will more then likely will have to put it on the bolt wire up so it stays then "bump" motor over with the starter to get it loose, be sure to pull the coil wire so engine doesn't start.... then a dead blow hammer to tap on the crank pulley helps sometimes it take a bit of time to work that off with a little prying and tapping......

it's easy just kinda a pain due to the lack of room in front of the motor, if you get a decent belt it should have marks to line up on the sprockets marks so makes timing super easy.

be sure to put the guide plate on the right way when you put it back together, and loosen water pump pulley bolts before taking belt off which a ratchet wrench is useful (10mm)

give yourself lots of time....

 

Thanks for the info VernK. I do have an impact wrench and I will replace the water pump when I do the job. I buy lots of parts at autozone and some things from oreillys but I think I was thinking I should buy the timing belt from Nissan. What do you think? Thanks for all your help.

 

VernK how did you lower your car? Was it just the struts and if so where can I find them? I really like the stance of your car and the rims are perfect.

 

the timing belt doesn't need to come from Nissan but if you do some price checking Nissan might be the best price, keep in mind there are two timing belts one with square teeth and one with round, I think you should have square but not for sure, but should get the right one with year make and model...... I think the last time I did mine I got it from rock auto as a kit with the water pump.

For my coilovers I built them with parts from ebay.....

https://maxima.org/forums/1st-2nd-ge...attention.html

https://maxima.org/forums/1st-2nd-ge...pension-3.html

just be sure to watch spring rates, I have 500lbs which a lot of people will find a bit stiff, and you will want a kit with shorter front sleeves I had to cut mine down.

 

Heads up, front hub parts are on closeout on Rock Auto, I just got new bearings and hubs, seals all Timken seals and bearing for $101.04 shipped, be sure to cross check part numbers and all.....

 

I have my grandpa's old 1984 Datsun Nissan Maxima and I'm looking to sell.

It only has 77,000 miles on it and is in great condition.

It's navy blue with blue interior.

I'm located in the SF Bay Area, California.

Please email me at eva.l.reut@gmail.com if you are interested in it.

Thank you!

 

I made coil overs from ebay parts, info is in the "need new suspension" sticky

 

I still have my 2nd gen

 

well I wore out a key, started not unlocking the drivers door, still worked in passenger door, I thought the lock cylinder had something wrong with it till I grabbed my extra key that is hardly used and compared them, and that one works fine so guess I should go have another key made.

 

you know the feeling when your 2nd gen puts a GTR in the rear view mirror

 

To anyone on this forum.
Yes I still have my 88 Se 5 speed with 384000 miles. A slight valve slap on startup but just will not die. One of the best cars I have ever had as far as dependability.
I have had this serviced continually for the past... well since 1993 with one clutch cylinder replacement when we thought the clutch went out so replaced the clutch at the same time. Belt always replaced with water pump at same time, etc etc etc Car currently plated insured but sitting in Kanab Ut. If any one interested call Doug 435-689-0254 before I just decide to do a classic motorsport rehab in 2016.

 

Mines at 384000

 

Yes yes my 1987 maxima still on the road honking at the newer generation cars on the road just passing 133,000, RIDE TILL THE END. Thanks Majorpayne

 

Nice ill need that job soon,will try to attch photos next log-on thx majorpayne

 

Hello i got it from grandpa ill keep it well maitained as he did till the wheels fall off right right. Thanks majorpayne

 

Wow

 

I actually got mine yesterday, and I'm in love with it. It belonged to an old lady since new (1988) And it's pretty much mint- a few scratches, but everything works.
I wish I could get the problem with the alarm figured out... It's giving me a headache. I'll set the system, and the immobilizer will work, but the alarm doesn't go off.

 

does your horn work? thats where I would start, if that works start check wiring like see if it is sending the signal out of the control box in the trunk, not sure what wire it would be, but if you can get your self a FSM it should be able to tell you, not sure if the pins would be different though out the years but will also depend if you have keyless and such things as that.