Considering NOS
#1
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I have done most of the mods so far that i can do for performance, intake, exaust, lighter wheels, etc, but now im left still wanting more out of my Se max. I raced a vtec integra the other day, a gs-R, and ****ed him off because he couldnt beat me, but i am considering maybe a 50 shot NOS system.. i dont wanna do the 100 shot, but how bad would it be for me to do this? from what i know so far, Nos would be alright as long as i dont A. use too much of a shot, and B. dont get too button happy or hold it down for too long. is this pretty much true? or what am i up against? i stopped in at NOPI today on my way back from Daytona Beach, FL., and they said the whole NOS kit would cost me about 500 bucks. Any one know anything to add to this thought?
#2
Well.....
you can get a compression test done to make sure the engine can still hold the added boost. and you'll have to retard the timing 2-3 degrees(from stock) and I wouldn't suggest you use "button activation" you should use a window switch instead, its more accurate and ensures accidental overuse won't occur which is possible with a push button activator. other than that do a search and you'll find out about all the gauges and extra add-ons you need.
#3
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Re: Well.....
Originally posted by DA-MAX
you can get a compression test done to make sure the engine can still hold the added boost. and you'll have to retard the timing 2-3 degrees(from stock) and I wouldn't suggest you use "button activation" you should use a window switch instead, its more accurate and ensures accidental overuse won't occur which is possible with a push button activator. other than that do a search and you'll find out about all the gauges and extra add-ons you need.
you can get a compression test done to make sure the engine can still hold the added boost. and you'll have to retard the timing 2-3 degrees(from stock) and I wouldn't suggest you use "button activation" you should use a window switch instead, its more accurate and ensures accidental overuse won't occur which is possible with a push button activator. other than that do a search and you'll find out about all the gauges and extra add-ons you need.
hmm... could i skip the compression test thing if i know for sure that it doesnt burn a single drop of oil? odd i know considering that it has 153k miles on it, and still doesnt burn a single drop of oil.. how do you change the timing on a se maxima that has coil packs? is this something i should do anyways for more power?
#4
With high milage.....
I'd say thats even more a reason to do the compression test, just to be 99.9% sure...its real easy, you can even do it yourself(using a Compression Tester they sell at Jegs.com) as for "changing" the timing, when using NOS you will want to RETARD the timing DO NOT advance it since advancing it can lead to detonation when using nitrous.
Originally posted by custmmax
hmm... could i skip the compression test thing if i know for sure that it doesnt burn a single drop of oil? odd i know considering that it has 153k miles on it, and still doesnt burn a single drop of oil.. how do you change the timing on a se maxima that has coil packs? is this something i should do anyways for more power?
hmm... could i skip the compression test thing if i know for sure that it doesnt burn a single drop of oil? odd i know considering that it has 153k miles on it, and still doesnt burn a single drop of oil.. how do you change the timing on a se maxima that has coil packs? is this something i should do anyways for more power?
#5
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Re: With high milage.....
Originally posted by DA-MAX
I'd say thats even more a reason to do the compression test, just to be 99.9% sure...its real easy, you can even do it yourself(using a Compression Tester they sell at Jegs.com) as for "changing" the timing, when using NOS you will want to RETARD the timing DO NOT advance it since advancing it can lead to detonation when using nitrous.
I'd say thats even more a reason to do the compression test, just to be 99.9% sure...its real easy, you can even do it yourself(using a Compression Tester they sell at Jegs.com) as for "changing" the timing, when using NOS you will want to RETARD the timing DO NOT advance it since advancing it can lead to detonation when using nitrous.
and what should it read?
#6
Bascially.....
I think you just remove each spark plug, put the probe end into the plug hole and check the level of compression in each cylinder. now I'm not 100% sure thats how its done, but to some extent I think thats the process. you can always get it done at local repair shops and Nissan, if you're not sure.
Originally posted by custmmax
how is the whole compression test thing done?
and what should it read?
how is the whole compression test thing done?
and what should it read?
#7
You can buy the NOS kit from JC whitney for $375. Then you should order a JWT ECU with nitrous program, this would run around $950-995 depending on who you get it from.
Originally posted by custmmax
I have done most of the mods so far that i can do for performance, intake, exaust, lighter wheels, etc, but now im left still wanting more out of my Se max. I raced a vtec integra the other day, a gs-R, and ****ed him off because he couldnt beat me, but i am considering maybe a 50 shot NOS system.. i dont wanna do the 100 shot, but how bad would it be for me to do this? from what i know so far, Nos would be alright as long as i dont A. use too much of a shot, and B. dont get too button happy or hold it down for too long. is this pretty much true? or what am i up against? i stopped in at NOPI today on my way back from Daytona Beach, FL., and they said the whole NOS kit would cost me about 500 bucks. Any one know anything to add to this thought?
I have done most of the mods so far that i can do for performance, intake, exaust, lighter wheels, etc, but now im left still wanting more out of my Se max. I raced a vtec integra the other day, a gs-R, and ****ed him off because he couldnt beat me, but i am considering maybe a 50 shot NOS system.. i dont wanna do the 100 shot, but how bad would it be for me to do this? from what i know so far, Nos would be alright as long as i dont A. use too much of a shot, and B. dont get too button happy or hold it down for too long. is this pretty much true? or what am i up against? i stopped in at NOPI today on my way back from Daytona Beach, FL., and they said the whole NOS kit would cost me about 500 bucks. Any one know anything to add to this thought?
#8
Re: Bascially.....
Originally posted by DA-MAX
I think you just remove each spark plug, put the probe end into the plug hole and check the level of compression in each cylinder. now I'm not 100% sure thats how its done, but to some extent I think thats the process. you can always get it done at local repair shops and Nissan, if you're not sure.
I think you just remove each spark plug, put the probe end into the plug hole and check the level of compression in each cylinder. now I'm not 100% sure thats how its done, but to some extent I think thats the process. you can always get it done at local repair shops and Nissan, if you're not sure.
Dry test:
- engine fully warmed up
- plugs come out
- throttle plate wide open
- kill the fuel pump circuit (also helps killing the spark circuit, too)
- install compression gauge into cylinder #1
- crank the engine a minimum of 7 times; someone should be watching the compression gauge and take note of how the pressure builds
== with a strong engine, compression builds up quickly
== worn piston rings is shown by low compression on the first stroke followed by only gradual increases in the following strokes
== Low compression on the first stroke followed by NO compression gain in the following strokes is a bad valve(s) and/or blown head gasket and/or a cracked head
== repeat process on the rest of the cylinders
I can do the procedure for the wet test but I'm feeling lazy tonight after typing all that stuff above.
#9
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Re: Re: Bascially.....
Originally posted by got rice?
Dry test:
- engine fully warmed up
- plugs come out
- throttle plate wide open
- kill the fuel pump circuit (also helps killing the spark circuit, too)
- install compression gauge into cylinder #1
- crank the engine a minimum of 7 times; someone should be watching the compression gauge and take note of how the pressure builds
== with a strong engine, compression builds up quickly
== worn piston rings is shown by low compression on the first stroke followed by only gradual increases in the following strokes
== Low compression on the first stroke followed by NO compression gain in the following strokes is a bad valve(s) and/or blown head gasket and/or a cracked head
== repeat process on the rest of the cylinders
I can do the procedure for the wet test but I'm feeling lazy tonight after typing all that stuff above.
Dry test:
- engine fully warmed up
- plugs come out
- throttle plate wide open
- kill the fuel pump circuit (also helps killing the spark circuit, too)
- install compression gauge into cylinder #1
- crank the engine a minimum of 7 times; someone should be watching the compression gauge and take note of how the pressure builds
== with a strong engine, compression builds up quickly
== worn piston rings is shown by low compression on the first stroke followed by only gradual increases in the following strokes
== Low compression on the first stroke followed by NO compression gain in the following strokes is a bad valve(s) and/or blown head gasket and/or a cracked head
== repeat process on the rest of the cylinders
I can do the procedure for the wet test but I'm feeling lazy tonight after typing all that stuff above.
#10
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Re: Re: Re: Bascially.....
Originally posted by custmmax
how mucgh might it cost to have this done somewhere?
how mucgh might it cost to have this done somewhere?
#12
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Dude do you still have the yokohama avid H4 tires? They are in your sig... if so I would SERIOUSLY get a better set of tires first... Tires are the #1 thing that can change how your car performs.... get a set of real performance tires like Bridgestone Potenza RE730, Yokohama AVS-I... heck anything better than an all season tire..... You will be amazed at the difference.
#13
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Originally posted by TerribleTed
Dude do you still have the yokohama avid H4 tires? They are in your sig... if so I would SERIOUSLY get a better set of tires first... Tires are the #1 thing that can change how your car performs.... get a set of real performance tires like Bridgestone Potenza RE730, Yokohama AVS-I... heck anything better than an all season tire..... You will be amazed at the difference.
Dude do you still have the yokohama avid H4 tires? They are in your sig... if so I would SERIOUSLY get a better set of tires first... Tires are the #1 thing that can change how your car performs.... get a set of real performance tires like Bridgestone Potenza RE730, Yokohama AVS-I... heck anything better than an all season tire..... You will be amazed at the difference.
http://www.epinions.com/auto-Tires-A...Avid__H4?sp=i2
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