Hello.
After taking my '89 GXE in to get an alignment / wheel balance, the told me I needed to do my steering gear mounting insulators (bushings). Since I bought the car over this past summer, I've had a vibration that I could not get rid of (did the cv axle, ball joint, control arm bushing, sway bar bushings, and even tried simply rotating tires.) I'm confident now that this was the issue the entire time. 2 questions:

1) Does anyone out there think that the steering gear insulators could be the cause of this vibration problem? More about the vibration - gets faster as the wheels get faster, gets louder after just tapping the brakes, wanes and waxes depending on whether or not my wheels are pointed strait.

2) What does changing these bushing entail? Is there a write - up that I may have missed when searching? Anything else that I should do while I've got the car up? Also - the boot on the steering gear has separated and will need replacing. I should prob do that as well.

Thanks for your time and I look forward to your responses!

Chris


*** Also called rack & pinion bushing

 

vibration? maybe, if the rack itself is so unrestrained that it's literally just slapping around. it's kindof a pain to change if you don't have a really thin ratchet and shallow socket, cuz the tranny kindasorta gets in the way. much easier with the tranny off, IF you already had a reason to remove the tranny like I did (vlsd upgrade). Otherwise you just gotta get the ratchet in there and deal with the close quarters. the FSM says what order to do the bolts in, if you have it. if you don't i can take a screencap of that page for you.

 

I feel like a total jackarse asking this but I am two connections short of finishing an engine swap & I can't for the life of me figure out where they go. So... where are the connections for these? I've wasted hellatime looking, but no luck. Thanks in advance!

 

did you hook up all the wires to your alternator yet? there's a ground, a hot wire, and a plug for the voltage regulator.

 

I have the '94 FSM (downloaded it - couldn't find the '89 manual) and I see the diagram of the steering gear, but do not see the order in which to do the bolts. I might be missing it but a screencap of yours would be greatly appreciated!

So you say a skinny ratchet and shallow sockets? Do you think by chance that you might know what size socket would fit? Just thinking I might be able to get by buying just one socket (kinda gotta go on the cheap here - my 8 year old is getting an R/C plane for Xmas and it's a good one - not one of those crpppy ones from Walmart!) ... I have a good set of regular sockets, but if they won't fit ...

Thanks again for your help!

 

depending on who you buy your injectors from you may need to buy the o-rings seperately. There are also cushions that should be replaced along with any rubber hose you see under there.

 

i think it's a 19mm or a 17mm.. and the order should be in the ST.pdf document.. i don't have it with me right now but if you don't find it by tonight then i can find the page order for you.

 

Just found it. Thanks, though. I bought a short breaker bar and a short ratchet to help get in there. I got under the car and realized that it is very cramped up there. Plus, I'm leaking PS fluid from somewhere up above and so it's really slick too. I'm going to clean it up first. It's probably what caused the bushings to wear down in the first place. I'll let you know how it goes (may wait until tomorrow).

 

First of all let me thank all of you for your support and advice! Here is my latest problem. My "91" Maxima se is driving me NUTS, #2 cylinder is not Firing, I have checked continuity, ohms, voltage and replaced injector, as well as complete P.M. Tune up (cap, rotor, plugs, and wires). I have not done a compression test, only because I have no symptoms of compression loss.No smoke,no oil consumption etc. Everything is pointing toward computer control module, but why would it single out just one cylinder? On board diagnostics is throwing constant code 33 and 51. I cleared all codes after replacing # 2 injector and still have consistent 51 error and 33 error as well as no power @ #2 cyl. All other cylinders are firing and showing excellent firing per plug inspection. After replacing the cap and rotor, injector, plug, and wire for #2; pulling the plug wire does not change the way the car runs. I'm completely stumped. Please help! thanks guys.

 

try going to autozone/o'reily/napa, see if they have a loaner 'Noid' light (AZ, and O usually loan them for free, plus a returned deposit, not sure about N). it will test the injector signal, make sure it is getting thru. if you get nothing, before replacing the ECU, make sure you have continuity between the harnesses for the injector and the ecu.
if that is bad, gl, if not you may really need to replace the ECU.

also, make sure the injector connector is clean, and making contact with the pins for the injector. you may need to bend the little fingers, to get them to contact better.

 

how does this noid light work? where and how does it hook up to the ecu? thanks for the advice.

 

92 gxe auto

my car for some reason is running rough intermittently. it started a few weeks ago when the temperature started to drop. it does it whether it is idling or in gear, it kind of acts like its running out of gas (best way i can think to describe it). its running on all cylinders, i did the unplugging wires while running test and there was a noticable difference with each one. lucky me i have a spare car so ive already tried swapping the coolant temp sensor, and the sensor adjacent to the air filter, maf? neither of these have made any real difference. when it is running poorly and i give the car a bit of gas i can hear knocking. any takers?

by the way, love the site, i would have been screwed without you guys' tutorials a little while back when i had to swap the tranny. thanks a ton.

edit: the oils been changed recently, the knocking sounds more like a spark type knock than a lifter, but i cant say for certain. earlier today i had to try a couple of times before it would start, this is a new symptom. should my next step be checking compression, injectors?

 

more info for diagnosis, does it run rough all through rpm range? has power dropped off? do you smell fuel when cold? does behaviour change when engine is hot/cold?

 

its the worst until about 3-4000 rpm, at that point it still runs kind of crappy compared to how it did before but not quite as bad as the lower rpms. and yes it intermittently (when its acting up) has less power than normal. negative on smelling fuel. it seems to not be affected by temp, same problem when first cranked or after a while, maybe slightly mor when cold. which reminds me of something else i forgot to include, my car seems to run cold like 90% of the time, the gauge typically gets up to the C and just kind of settles there, thermostat stuck open maybe? off and on it will get up to normal but eventually gets back to there. i dont live in alaska or anything, temperatures are typically mild here, its been about 60 or so during the day. i should also add that i changed the plugs today just to rule that out, no difference.

and thanks for the reply

 

its driving me crazy i don't know what plug this is it just hangs under my driver side dash next to the fuse box

 

I think it's the Consult connector, for diagnosis. Ignore it, you probably never will use it.

 

Thank you i also have other questions

1.My power door locks don't work at all no sound or nothing no unlock with inside control or the key turn its pissing me off!!

2.My antenna don't want to work, like its not geting any power to it ,my friend cut the little box with all the wires apart i attempted to re wire it but still i get nothing, im thinking about buying one from auto zone like this http://contentinfo.autozone.com/znet...UA200/image/8/ will it work for my car or dose it need to be a power one??

3.None of the windows roll down from the corresponding switchs i can only roll down the front passenger and driver window from the driver side main switch what could this be?

4.And my rear pasenger window fall down on it own..

please help me

 

I just got done checking the signal with the noid light. i got no signal on the malfunctioning cylinder but all the rest checked out fine. where do I go from here? why would the computer single out one injector?

 

It's useful when if one has a good scanner (example Snap-On) and doesn't want to turn the **** on the ECU

For #3, most likely the switches are done for

For #4, you need a new window regulator. Common problem with these cars. Number 82700 on this diagram

 

hey, i've been doing some research and i read about the crank angle sensor. supposedly these commonly malfunction on the 91 maxima. from what i read this could very well be my problem. it could be as simple as removing the ditributor and inspecting this crank angle sensor for dirt and proper wiring/corrosion. have you ever heard of this? do you think this could be my problem?? I really hope i've finally found an answer to this long and expensive venture. I'll keep you posted on how it goes.

 

Couple more questions, have you checked your ECU for codes? The CEL (check engine light) is only on the dash to demonstrate what color the other idiot lights should be, the procedure to check codes at the ECU is on this site if you arent familiar with it.
Have you ran any f/i cleaner? If not I would suggest it, people seem to like Sea Foam, and I have used B-12 Chemtool with success.IMHO I won't use anything that comes in a plastic bottle. I figure if it can't dissolve plastic after months on the shelf, how good could it clean?
The coolant temp situation would be a good one to tackle first, if that is what the ecu see's it will have varied affects on how the engine runs.
Make sure your cooling system is full and if you have an air bleed, that ther is no air in the system. CTS is at a high point and it won't read correctly if there is air present.
How hot does your heater blow? Redneck diagnosis, but if the heater is HOT and guage says cold then might be electrical....
If engine is running cool/cold then almost has to be thermostat.
I would eliminate these things first, then move on if neccessary

 

Just a thought, my VE as part of the open/closed loop control system fires ALL the injectors at the same time during starting. If yours is the same and the injector doesn't fire then it may be a wiring problem. Also unless you have already verfied that the replacement injector does fire ( plug into harness for other cylinders or?) I would check. Murphys law will bite you I know from experience.
CAS could be problem and is what made me think of the starting loop with all injectors firing...... good luck and let us know

 

stupid question but how do you remove the rear seat cushions?

 

its not a stupid question i want to know too so i can get the red leather ones!

 

i need to know because i have to work on my harnesses more, at the junkyard people rip off the back seat cushion and there looks like 2 metal loop hooks at the back but i need to take the cushions out properly incase i want them in again

at least i'm not alone lol

 

yeah, the rear seat is two pieces.

Bottom removal:
run your hand under neat the front of the bottom cushion. find the loops. using your hand, gently (but firmly) pull up. if it doesn't give, pull harder. still need help grab a pry bar or screw driver.

top cushion:
after removing the bottom cushion, there will be two screws exposed that hold the seat down by the doors.remove them (stick somewhere safe!)
fold down the arm rest, to expose the plastic circle things (just woke up, but whatever). pry those off, exposing two more screws. remove, stick with the other two.
now the most difficult part. lift up on the bottom of the cushion, taking care not to pull it towards you. it should come out, but the half dozen of them I have done (my two maximas, a few more at the junk yard), it takes some muscle, and patience.

 

Does anyone know where I can find a very detailed maintenance manual for the 93 Max vg30e? (European edition, 125KW)

 

thanks, i might just not use the cushions again because i never have more than 1 passenger, any harm in permanently not using the rear cushions?

 

did you try your local dealer? ask them for a factory service manual. cuz alot of EDM stuff is different from USDM stuff esp. if you are RHD.

 

Ok guys. I'm really sick of working on my car and spending money on things that don't help. I have a 91 Maxima SE. It's my daily driver so it is very important to me. I have been having a lot of trouble diagnosing a misfire problem. SO... I am willing to pay $100 cash to who ever correctly diagnoses the problem and tells me how to fix it.

Symptoms:

1. Misfire in number two cylinder.

2. Intermittent erratic idle when in park or neutral. (rpms bounce between 1500 and 2000 whether the engine is hot or cold)

3. Bad fuel economy.

4. Motor intermittently surges while driving but not while under a load. (only while coasting)

FYI:

1. I do have acceptable spark on all cylinders.

2. Cylinders are all getting fuel.

3. I checked the number two cylinder injector signal using a NOID light and got NO signal!

4. I have tested the Crank Angle Sensor and it seems to be functioning properly and has no apparent physical damage.

5. The ECU is giving me codes 33 and 51.

6. I have inspected and cleaned all electrical connections.

7. I have traced the injector wiring harness from the number two cylinder back to the main wiring harness and found no problems.

8. There is continuity in all injection system wires.

9. The connection to the number two injector reads a little over 12 volts constantly.

10. I have found and fixed a couple vacuum leaks but it didn't seem to help the car run.

I have replaced:

1. Spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor.

2. Fuel injector on number two cylinder. (which turned out to be a waste of time and money)

3. I have done a full preventative maintenence tune up.

If anyone has any ideas feel free to PM me or reply to this thread. I am a man of my word and I will pay who ever correctly diagnoses the problem. Thanks guys.

 

have you ohm checked the replacement injector? should be between 10-14 ohms. if it is out of that range (high, or low) it is a bad injector.
Wasn't a re-manufactured unit, was it?

 

+1, if you swapped it with a re-man injector thats probably it

 

guys i think this is my last day on this site ... just found out that the throttle valve switch circuit isdefected, detoation sensor is defected,and the fuel temperature sensor is defected. i dont have any idea how to fix this. I took as much care of my car that i possibly could. the previous owner didnt not take care of it AT ALL. BYE FELLAS

 

... fuel temperature? we don't even have a fuel temp sensor. z31 does but we don't

 

oh well the guy that checked it out said that was wrong with it. the motor is good. but for some reason it wont crank. if you know anything that can help please dont let me know. i really dont want to give up on this car

 

its either you want us to let you know and you dont give up the car, or we dont tell you and you give up on it, cant be both lol

 

no crank? if it won't crank you check the starter/battery/ignition switch/Neutral safety switch/ shifter bushing. Sensors get checked after you can crank. I am not aware of ANY sensor on the engine that will prevent starting.
Have you tried to start the car in neutral?
Does the starter click?

 

the car turns over....... it just wont start.

 

trying to start the car in neutral wont do anything

 

so i bought some alpine speak and put them were the old paper speaker were in the rear ,i also bought a new head unit and now my rear speaker dont seem to function im not getting any sound what could this problem be