you can get the digi-cluster with HUD at a junk yard. you will want the connectors, with some length to tap into the existing harness. if you don't want the digi cluster, and want the needle gauges with HUD, you will still need the cluster for the control box.
I think I may have coppied the text from that page a while back, lemme check.
edit: edit2: it was recently discussed, I added an excel spreadsheet to the post, as I was planning to do a digi swap. I still haven't made any more progress on it
http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...tal-gauge.html
4th post in the thread.

ive got to deal with the Z31 turbo stuff now with the 3rd gen and have alot to build up on her so i wont be doing the cluster swap, i most likely do what i originally intended, using the 280z gauges i got. i also was too late to get the wiring from the Brougham i got the gauge cluster off and its crushed, and another junkyard Brougham most likely wont be around for a long time

how hard is it to remove the airbag? when i can turn my 3rd gen into more of a track car i'm ditching the airbag. dont want to try to remove it and have it blow up in my face

also are the airbag steering wheel hubs the same as the non-airbag hubs? the reason i ask is i have a Sparco Volanti wheel to use instead, and i have to order a aftermarket hub from Ebay so i need to make sure the hub will fit

quick question, trying to undo the bolts on my strut towers, but theyre stuck from age and the cold isnt helping either.

last night i could get one bolt off out of six, thats it. tomorrow i was going to either aim a heat lamp towards the tower, or i have one of those propane-powered torches. which would be better to heat up the bolts? i soaked some liquid wrench on the bolts last night if that matters

do you intend to keep the strut mounts or replace them? if you want to keep them i'd try a flameless heat source first.

what kind of tool are you trying to get it off with? wrench? socket and breaker bar? impact?

keep them. its supposed to be warm tomorrow so i may just try again without any heat first, i tried wrench first and nothing, then so i tried a socket and breaker bar and got the one off. but again it was like -20c last night, probably colder. tomorrow afternoon its supposed to be around 0c so i think that should help.

so if i run a spacer they would sit flush and not rub? i realized that i come off as such a damn ricer on this forum lol. i bought my maxima for a daily driver not for performance. im just looking to make it look a litter better.

with the right spacer, yes.
be aware, after a point, you will need to get longer wheel studs (also remember the word "hubcentric" when ordering them)

meant to ask a long time ago, was JoeBoost (guy with the JDM VG30ET 1989 GXE) ever on here?

am i talking to walls here or what?

Adding to the whole wheel subject, thinking of picking these up for my 89. he says they are universal 18" x8 think they will fit? http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/pts/1588235388.html thanks.

they should but you might need spacers. they look pretty high offset (sunk in) but it's hard to really tell until you put them on. test fit both the front and rear.

I just created an account and i cant find where to post questions so ill post one here. I have a 1990 Nissan Maxima with rebuilt transmission. Last night i was driving and i stopped at the red light. As it turned green i started accelerating and i heard clunking/popping noise and i have no drive, or reverse now. I press gas pedal it sounds like transmission trying to go, but car aint moving, can someone help me with what may the issue is? Park still works, no drive,no reverse. Thank you. I greatly appreciate

either the torque converter (between engine and transmission) or something inside the transmission broke. how long ago was it rebuilt? how does the fluid look?

I recently noticed how my 93 with a VE engine accelerates really badly at the low end, found out from this site that its a knock sensor problem. Error codes confirm this. I tried to disconnect the wire i thought was for it, slightly forward right next to the red ects connector, but it was so corroded the wire just broke off. now i don't even get error code 34 anymore, i get 55.

did i disconnect the right cable (and break it)?
why don't i get error 34 anymore?
how can I fix it?
i dont know if I still have the acceleration sluggishness at the low end, I havent driven it since then.
(EDIT) - it looks from the electrical diagrams in the fsm, that i broke the thermal transmitter, which i assume is for the temp guage. maybe i dont get error 34 anymore because the car was off and it didn't have enough time to detect a ks malfunction?

I just spent ten minutes searching the forums for my problem, because it's a pretty basic one, but it's hard to describe in two words or less.
The pivot between my windshield wiper motor and control arm (linkage arm?) snapped, the rubber gasket that contained it has completely eroded away, and the parts were just kind of resting on each other and still managing to work. That is, until I opened the hood with the wipers popped up away from the windshield. Pretty stupid, I know, but I had just Rain-Xed the windshield and didn't want the new wiper blades touching it, and didn't think about what would happen if I popped my hood.
Anyway, I know what the parts look like, just want to know where I can find them. It looks like an easy job to do, I just want to make sure I'm getting the right parts. Could anybody tell me what to look for?
Thank you

Check on courtesyparts.com (online OEM parts) below:

Windshield Wiper

Got a couple questions not worth making a new thread for

1) I did a self diagnostics for my tranny and got a code 10 "Line pressure solenoid valve circuit" now my question what does this part do, and is having it malfunctioning going to break my tranny?

2)How many self diagnostics are there for our cars? I know about ABS, ACC, Tranny, ECU. Any other?

got a question.

my car is definitely running on only 5 cyl right now. its just my rain transportation right now since i ride my cbr on good days but i need to get this fixed.

it has a pretty loud clicking noise that seems like its coming from the head. is that more likely a valve or injector on a maxima?

hey sup guys newbie here ive had my maxima for 5 years now its a 89 maxima with 280k and counting and its been one of the most reliable car ive had. few Q,s is this car had the tranny rebuilt about 70k ago and eversince its not the same seems to heavy at acceleration from stop and it revs up almost to 3k as if i was stepping on. once it gets goin its fine highway fine has power and all but just on stops

does the car shake bad and make a putt putt noise at idle? if so probably injector

ya its prob the injector then.
best suggestion on where to get them? stealership, junkyard, auto parts store?
install horrible?

NEVER EVER get reman injectors, cuz they are as bad, if not worse, than used injectors. they aren't rebuilt, they are just cleaned up and reboxed. which is great if they clogged, but these fail due to corrosion of the wire coil inside the injector, which rebuilders don't replace.

anyways.. JY if you are in a pinch (grab a $7 Multimeter from harbor freight and verify that the resistance is between 10 and 14ohms), or brand-new $115/ea Bosch from an auto parts store. accept no substitutes (that means no Pythons either)

i just looked at some of my reciepts from the previous owner. it seems that one of the injectors has been replaced. i might look into that to see if it was replace with a reman one.

thanks

yep dont go reman, Benstoked i think it was pointed out that to get a injector rebuilt you have to get into a part on the injector that essentially wrecks by getting into it or something like that so its no help really.

my bad cant understand, youre saying that when you go from stop to acceleration it feels heavy? as in heavy acceleration? and what do you mean by "revs up almost to 3k as if i was stepping on"? stepping on what?

i ve used this site a ton. love it. '90 vg has intermitant starting issue. Happens cold or after prolonged driving. turns over just fine will chug like it wants to fire over. pushing pedal to floor seems to help. did notice prior to shutting it off the rpms will be in the 1100-1400 range. also temp gauge on dash will drop to cold for a while then go back up. replaced dist. cap + rotor ngk platinum plugs and wires, battery, #5 injector (0 ohms) fuel filter, and sea foamed when i did the injector. Could it be Coil or coolant temp sensor?

i'd want to make sure you aren't leaking fuel into the engine and flooding it (ie adding air helps the car start when you push the gas). the gauge has a separate temperature sensor (single spade connector) than the ECU (2-pin connector) tho both of them are right next to each other on the water neck where the crossover coolant tube connects. so that is probably just a flaky gauge or flaky sender unit.

what do you mean about the rpms though? it goes to 1100-1400rpm idling before you shut the car off after a drive?

yeah in park it idles below 1000 but prior to this happening it seems like every time it will idle at higher rpms. so if it does this when i park i know it will have this issue when starting the next time, at least if i start it within the next couple hours or so.

Wow, exactly the link I was looking for. I just wanna know 2 things....for now. 1. Can I get my 93 se to sound like an infiniti, and 2. Where can I get black corner lights for my max?

Another dumb question, where can I get a universal shift gate for my SE?

... what do you mean a universal shift gate?

a plate of metal with the H-pattern of the shifter carved out into it that slots the shifter into when you select gears? good luck finding one that works. the shifting range of this shifter is awkwardly narrow meaning that most shift gates you find will not let you into the gears you actually want to be in.

what do you mean sound like a Infiniti? maybe try a G35 exhaust?

i think for black corner lights you need to get clear corners and smoke them but really that defeats the purpose of even having corner lights

I have a 1989 nissan maxima. It sat for 7 years, since ive had it i put on, new spark plugs, spark plug wires, K&N filter, Camshaft position sensor/Distributer, clutch, water pump, rear main seal, timing belt, tires, interior work, and exhaust. nothing major, just regular fix ups. When i got it after sitting, it appeared only the spark plug wires were chewed on by mice. Im having a very big problem with it tho. It starts fine, and the computer tells me code #55, meaning nothings wrong. When i drove it it missed and spit and had very little power, but sounded nice under 2000RPM. So i looked at it, I found out my injector was spraying in way to much fuel, i could smell it and that cylinder, plus 2 others were not firing. all 3 back cylinders run fine, but none of the front run at all. the far left front cylinder, i think #2, Was spraying way to much fuel, so i replaced the computer, later to find out it dident fix it, and plus my other 2 front cylinders, i think #s 4 and 6, werent getting enough fuel. i tested them, the far left front injector plug read like 13v, the other 2 read around 2.57v. all 3 back ones read between 11 and 12v. but the front 3 stay the same they dont change ever, to open and close. im getting spark, air, and fuel, i checked, throttle position sensor, grounds, emission control sensor, plugs, compression, intake, and they all turned out good. Ive seen on forums people have this same probllem, ive been trying to figure this out for a few months now, could you please help me or just tell me what i could do or need to do to fix this? Thank you very much, Robert Zeromski.

hey, Robert.
sounds like malfunctioning injectors, or other wires/hoses were chewed by the mice.
voltage to injectors doesn't really matter much (although the one @2v, see above), as the injector resistance does. to properly check injector harness signal, you need a noid light (can be borrowed from napa/autozone/oreily for free), and the injectors themselves need to be tested, resistance between the two pins on each injector should be 10-14 ohms. double check all hoses and wires, as well as the two tests, and get back to us.
also, have you changed the timing belt, yet? it may be a toot or two off, and cause similar issues.

Yupp i just put a timing belt on. Timing is right on. The hoses are all new. Not wires tho. The injectors are good, because the problems stay with the wires. if i move the wires around the problem moves to where ever the injector is. Tested the injectors also. If i leave the one thats at 12v pluged in all i can smell is gas and it drips out my exhaust, but if i unplug it then it runs fine, minus the 3 cylinders not firing.

Hi all, i have a '96 maxima 3.0l, with 129K on it and was wondering if any of those fuel additives were worth adding, i wanna clean out my engine and fuel line i dont think its ever been done. i use BP gas 97 octane and mobil1 oil. any recommendations for keeping the car running good? thanks

Wrong section bud, you have a fourth generation Maxima (95-99). This is for the third gens (89-94).

you want the 4th gen section but in the General section we had a discussion on this and almost all of us think gas already has enough good additives so you dont need to add anything

Ha any one else know my problem???^^^^^^^^^^^^^^