The easier way is to put a flat-head screwdriver through the grill and twist the front of the clip 45 degrees.

So even tho they are diff years and diff engines (sohc) and (dohc) the trans will bolt right up to the 90 as long as I use the same axles and hubs from the 94 how do I release the axles? and removing the bolts holding the rear strut and addtional hardware is proving very difficult like it's rusted together. here are some images a few days before my car was smashed it was starting to look good...

hubs and axles for sure.
there hasnt been a good thread, as far as i know of talking about a vg5 to ve5 swap. Ive considered the swap, too. when a car with a ve5 comes through my jy, i intend to do this as well. so I am asking the uber-know-it-alls(said with utmost respect) what else needs to be swapped?

well i already drained the radiator. i found that clear rubber tube you mentioned, but isn't there another drain plug to drain the rest of the coolant out of the engine and the reservoir? cause that's the drain plug i'm having trouble finding.

ok so you mean the hubs and axles will fit for sure? what about the transmission?

transmission bolts right up.

In a nutshell, car has: crate motor from japan, rebuilt auto tranny, cleaned injectors, warspeed full exhaust, new knock sensor, always maintained every 3 months... When I go to start the car, or have my auto start start my car, it will hesitate and i will have to hold the key a few seconds or stop and then try again. then it will usually start, puff of black smoke comes out, smells like fuel. new spark plugs dont change anything. when i clean the muffler and get it shhiny, it don't take but a week to carbon it up. Is the motor heavily coated with carbon internally and this is burning off, or maybe an injector seal is bad? my friend put a fuel catalyst thing on my fuel line that goes to injector rail, said it would help me get better fuel economy etc. Any help I appreciate it.

Sounds like a fun car. I would remove whatever your friend put on there, as it may have ruined your injector seals.

Were you having problems before your friend put the fuel catalyst thing on? If not, I would take it off immediately as your description is kind of vague. Either way, you may want to make sure you've seated and have correct o rings on your injectors and to replace your Coolant Temperature Sensor. I tried everything on my VE to figure out why it was running very rich, with a lot of black smoke like you were saying, it turned out to be the Coolant Temperature sensor, my car would idle very poorly, sometimes smoke, sometimes stall, often power problems under 3k rpms, stuttering under consistent speeds, etc.

I replaced the $30 CTS and it all went away.

how did you "clean" the injectors?
is your car a 24 valve VE30DE or a 12 valve VG30E?
what do your plugs look like?

In the title of his post it says:

I only read the body of the post.
at least he can eliminate cap and rotor from his list of possible culprits.
it's probably bad injectors/o'rings depending on how they were "cleaned"

It was about a year or 2 ago when he put it on, its an inline thing, metal cylinder type deal. I forgot if it had that problem before or not. I have a nissan factory service manual, and I checked the cts and according to it, it is fine, tested when cold warm, and hot...all specs matched close. guess I will remove that thing from fuel line and just have it set back up like normal and see if that helps.

I had the injector rails w/injectors in, removed and taken to some injector shop, had them professionally cleaned. installed. car was running great except I was getting this same kind of problem. turned out 1 injector seal was busted. I knew this from fuel being on a spark plug. I replaced the seals on that injector and problem went away. this was about 2 years ago.

I've checked spark plugs for fuel because its almost like an injector has a bad seal, but none have fuel on them, they all look like each other so not one particular cylinder or injector seems the problem. they do seem a little heavily coated in carbon than they should for how new they are(plugs that is)

Maybe that fuel catalyst is messing with fuel pressure and it don't start right away, causing fuel to be dumped into motor and when it does fire it spits it out, and this causing dirtier plugs and muffler?

Thanks guys, appreicate your help.

well you probably screwed the injectors by having them cleaned. nissan specifically says not to use cleaners on them because it damages the windings coating.
the effect is not necessarily immediate, but it will happen.

Ohm out the injectors to see if any are still in spec.

all injectors in spec 10.8-11.6 . its been almost 2 years, so hopefully they are o.k.

just did my oil, oil filter, spark plug change for upcoming spring/summer. plugs didnt look too bad. 4 were dry and had some black carbon buildup on the outer round part, but white part looked good barely coated with anything. 2 were the same of carbon buildup as others but threads were slightly wet with oil or something. I took off that fuel catalyst, god I hate messing with fuel crap. even tho I pull fuse to release pressure, I always seem to get fuel to keep draining out.

put fresh oil in, new plugs. fuel cat is off. But before I did all this I ran some seafoam in the crankcase and some in gas, and the rest in the brake booster. man she sure smoked up alot. was hard to tell the color of the smoke, seemed gray, blueish. burnin blue smoke is oil being burned correct? maybe I have lots of oil/carbon buildup in the motor, i've put 20-30k on motor, but im sure it had 30-90k from japan then sat for a bit, but I've had it for over 2 years now.

ran great on test drive, started right up fine, no smoke or fuel smell besides my hands from taking off the catalyst. gets and and goes very nicely. we'll see how she starts in the morning. thanks everyone

was reading around some threads and it got me thinking about my valve cover gaskets. I noticed black soot around the gasket area on the valve covers, ive had it clean and nice last summer, haven't really paid attention to it, noticed it all dirty with thick dry black soot. could my valve cover gaskets be leaking slightly? what kind of problem could a leaking valve cover gasket cause? also where to get a new sticker for the front valve cover, the 24valve v6 3000 sticker?

Well, for one... is it leaking down into your spark plug holes? That would be a dead giveaway if you're burning oil.

Yes, it definitely sounds like your valve covers are leaking a bit, the only issues from this would be 1. a dirty engine. 2. loss of engine oil. 3. if the leaks gets bad enough, it will start to run down onto your exhaust=smoke/smell=yuck.



The dealership is the only place..

no its not leaking into spark plug holes, it looks as if its slowly, slowly leaking out toward fron of the motor...Greeny got it.

Think Im going to take off valve cover, polish it up, or get that black mirror powder coated one off ebay and put on. just for looks hehe . and deffinately throw some new gaskets on. When I put new gaskets on do I need any gasket glue or anything like that to make sure its a nice tight seal, or just put new gasket on and torque down cover to specs?

Actually, when they get bad enough, the valve cover gasket will eventually start leaking oil into your spark plug holes.

The oem v/c gaskets are made of rubber, no rtv is needed. I also suggest you get it from the dealership.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasit...c-p-41683.html

awesome, thanks for the help!

most aftermarket VE gaskets (when you find them) are made of rubber too

Yeah, i believe all are made of rubber, but the reason i say dealer is you are more likely going to get the right part #...compared to idiotzone and all the other chain stores. not to mention, most of the chain stores you have to order the ve gasket, where at the dealer may have a better chance of them having it in stock.

if ANYONE offers you a Fel-Pro gasket for a VE, laugh at them.
Fel-Pro does not make any gaskets for the VE contrary to what cataloging may show.

umm...correction.

all the gaskets i have used recently have been Fel-Pro....but the oil pan gasket is incorrect with Fel-Pro, beck Arnley, and everyone else....i had to combine 2 gasket sets to make it work....but other than that, fel-pro has had everything correct so far.

that's a neat trick. their catalog only list the VG30DE as far as I can tell.

then the wrong gaskets worked for me

Does it matter which side of the motor its for or are the gaskets for the LH and RH the same for valve cover? according to the link you gave me and the picture that link is for the rear valve cover. I think I want 13270-A ?

Good catch..

Yes you will need the A

http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasit...4-p-41687.html

hehe thanks, I like to make sure its the right one, I always wanna be 200% sure before I put in an order. Thanks again for all your help

I had best buy swap out the stock stereo head unit for a jvc after market one that controls my ipod but now my rear speakers dont work at all. I need help!! I have a 93 maxima with the "active speaker" system please give me advice or post a link to a thread that goes over this topic and shows how to fix it. Thanks a lot guys. Also if its easier for you to pm me the links please do so.

I don't plan on doing this in the next 5 years....but if I ever got into crazy modification of my max how easy would it be to put a pathfinder or 300zx drivetrain on it? Front Wheel Drive sucks...but the VG definitely don't lmao.

I don't know exactly what to tell you but I had the head unit go out on me and I knew my mom blew 1 speaker in the rear back when she owned the car. So I replaced them - and thats what I'd recommend, just take out the amp that nissan puts in the trunk, get a cheap pair of like Polks at crutchfield and you'll have better sound and a reliable system. Since you take out pretty much everything but the wires I'd assume it would be fixed.

However if you want a guess at the easiest fix....bypass the trunk mounted amplifier (its a little tuna can shaped thing) I would assume your JVC unit does amplification on its own

about as easy as climbing Mt Everest with no tools and nothing but a speedo to wear

Thats disappointing to say the least....I know alot of people can find other drivetrain parts in other cars (I remember a friend telling me something about a 240 using an infiniti differential) or something and yeah I haven't spent a whole hell of a lot of time looking at the drivetrains of any of the vehicles listen in my last post. Oh well if I had money I'd have a 300ZX anyways and would only care about the maxima when I've got to carry around 3 or more people.

you say fwd sucks. I can drive in weather that makes my moms mx-5 scarry, and i cant tell a difference. sure, fwd sucks for drag racing, but i (personally) dont intend to drag a fwd car. if you want a better performing car, there are plenty of modifications you can use. have fun with the max, and think about your intentions. To be different? go for it. to have a better performing car? depending on the mods you want to do, I'd recommend something that requires less/no real modification.

take it back and tell them to connect the amplifier trigger wire as well.
there is an amp back there that needs to be triggered from the HU to power the back speakers.

Hey all, gotta weird one for ya (or it is to me). I have owned my 93 Maxima SE for 2 years now. (first JDM car, used to building and dealing with domestic muscle). It has rebuilt motor with 52K on it NO engine mods yet. Did complete interior and exterior so far, engine and suspension mods coming. Car runs awesome except on first start. Problem: Sounds like no oil pressure at idle and when cold. After bringing RPM'S up for a couple of seconds valve knock (sounds like what it would be on domestic old muscle car) vanishes and does not come back unless engine at absolute cold engine start (8-10 hours of cooling). Before you say it...yes I let my car warm up to operating temp and still knocks..I have a remote start on my alarm. I changed oil and filter. No difference. Took to Nissan and they could not find anything. Anyone got any ideas??? I'm not stupid, although the dealership would like to think so, and this is far from normal. So any help before engine damage occurs would be appreciated.

FWD is excellent for what it is supposed to do.