*NOOBIES* The "I am new here,but have a question" thread..(post your questions here)
02-22-2008, 12:30 PM
#402
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 15
Looking at '92 Maxima SE - need some input
Hi Everyone!
Great message board! I haven't been around Nissans for a while, so it's good to see such an active and informed community.
Sorry for the lengthy post. I am currently driving my 1998 Mustang Cobra because my mother's car went kaput. So I gave her my Mazdaspeed 6 to drive. I feel like the Cobra's odo is spinning out of control, so I need an inexpensive, reliable daily driver. Plus, I have three kids and cannot fit them in the Cobra nor can my wife drive a manual. Hence the desire for a nice daily. (Ok...sob story over. LOL!!)
I found a nice 1992 Maxima SE ithat needs some work. I just don't know how much. She is an automatic with 164k miles on the clock. Cosemtically, she's actually in good shape, save for the typical wear on the leather seats and steering wheel. The front suspension is pretty much shot and most probably will need everything (struts/shocks, ball joints, inner/outer tie rods, endl inks, etc). I can pick this Maxima up for $500, so I don't mind spending a few bones fixing things. Labor is all me, so my only investment would be parts and the typical misc stuff.
First, the car runs bad. The owner says it needs lifters, but my searches have turned up the VTCs are the actual problem 9 out of 10 times. Here are the symptoms:
-> at idle - she sounds like a broken sewing machine running full tilt. The only sound I can think of is if you put a piece of plastic in a spinning fan blade. This noise climbs and drops with engine rpms. The idle is also very rough, but I don't smell fuel in the exhaust. When I put the car in gear, it almost dies but then comes back to idle (~700 rpms).
-> take-off from a standstill - Take-off from a standstill is VERY sluggish. But just how sluggish depends on how long the car has been sitting in gear at idle. Just a few seconds, take-off is ok-ish. If I sit for a minute (like at a stoplight), take-off is very, very slow. It's almost like the cylinders are full of fuel (ie. rich), but I don't smell fuel (at least inside the car) nor does the car doesn't buck or complain. She just lumbers on out until 3,000 rpms (see next point).
-> at speed - This is where things get weird. Below about 3,000 rpms, the car is sluggish but moves ok. Once you pass 3,000 rpms, the car smooths out a little and is much more responsive. At WOT when the car hits about 4,000 rpms, she takes off like a rocket! The loud, sewing machine/clicking noises go away and she flies. The motor also becomes silky smooth and pulls HARD all the way to about 6,000 or so when the tranny upshifts.
So, my first question is: based on the info above, is the problem lifters/actuators or the VCTs?
Second issue/question: the tranny. The transmission engages into reverse decently. But when you put the selector in drive, it takes about 5 seconds for the gear to engage. And it does so rather abruptly. RPMs drop to about 400 but the car recovers just fine.
When driving, the tranny shifts ok from gear to gear with no problems. However, at about 30% throttle, upshifts occur at 3,200 rpms or so. At 50-60% throttle, she'll hold the gear to 4,000 rpms. At WOT, shifts are held until 6,200 rpms or so, with one issue. The upshift is so violent that it yanks the wheel hard to the right. I can't imagine with less than 200 hp, there would be that much torque steer. And it doesn't pull at all when getting to redline. Just at the upshift point.
For the Power/Comfort switch, I'm not sure that it is working at all. The button moves between all three positions just fine, but the P or C light does not come on when switching between the modes. FWIW, I left the switch in the middle during my test drive.
So, my questions here are: is the transaxle ok? Will a fliud and filter change help clean things up a bit? And with the rpms being held so long, is the power/comfort switch broken or malfunctioning?
Once again, my apologies for the long post. And I greatly appreciate any and all responses. Thanks everyone!
Great message board! I haven't been around Nissans for a while, so it's good to see such an active and informed community.
Sorry for the lengthy post. I am currently driving my 1998 Mustang Cobra because my mother's car went kaput. So I gave her my Mazdaspeed 6 to drive. I feel like the Cobra's odo is spinning out of control, so I need an inexpensive, reliable daily driver. Plus, I have three kids and cannot fit them in the Cobra nor can my wife drive a manual. Hence the desire for a nice daily. (Ok...sob story over. LOL!!)
I found a nice 1992 Maxima SE ithat needs some work. I just don't know how much. She is an automatic with 164k miles on the clock. Cosemtically, she's actually in good shape, save for the typical wear on the leather seats and steering wheel. The front suspension is pretty much shot and most probably will need everything (struts/shocks, ball joints, inner/outer tie rods, endl inks, etc). I can pick this Maxima up for $500, so I don't mind spending a few bones fixing things. Labor is all me, so my only investment would be parts and the typical misc stuff.
First, the car runs bad. The owner says it needs lifters, but my searches have turned up the VTCs are the actual problem 9 out of 10 times. Here are the symptoms:
-> at idle - she sounds like a broken sewing machine running full tilt. The only sound I can think of is if you put a piece of plastic in a spinning fan blade. This noise climbs and drops with engine rpms. The idle is also very rough, but I don't smell fuel in the exhaust. When I put the car in gear, it almost dies but then comes back to idle (~700 rpms).
-> take-off from a standstill - Take-off from a standstill is VERY sluggish. But just how sluggish depends on how long the car has been sitting in gear at idle. Just a few seconds, take-off is ok-ish. If I sit for a minute (like at a stoplight), take-off is very, very slow. It's almost like the cylinders are full of fuel (ie. rich), but I don't smell fuel (at least inside the car) nor does the car doesn't buck or complain. She just lumbers on out until 3,000 rpms (see next point).
-> at speed - This is where things get weird. Below about 3,000 rpms, the car is sluggish but moves ok. Once you pass 3,000 rpms, the car smooths out a little and is much more responsive. At WOT when the car hits about 4,000 rpms, she takes off like a rocket! The loud, sewing machine/clicking noises go away and she flies. The motor also becomes silky smooth and pulls HARD all the way to about 6,000 or so when the tranny upshifts.
So, my first question is: based on the info above, is the problem lifters/actuators or the VCTs?
Second issue/question: the tranny. The transmission engages into reverse decently. But when you put the selector in drive, it takes about 5 seconds for the gear to engage. And it does so rather abruptly. RPMs drop to about 400 but the car recovers just fine.
When driving, the tranny shifts ok from gear to gear with no problems. However, at about 30% throttle, upshifts occur at 3,200 rpms or so. At 50-60% throttle, she'll hold the gear to 4,000 rpms. At WOT, shifts are held until 6,200 rpms or so, with one issue. The upshift is so violent that it yanks the wheel hard to the right. I can't imagine with less than 200 hp, there would be that much torque steer. And it doesn't pull at all when getting to redline. Just at the upshift point.
For the Power/Comfort switch, I'm not sure that it is working at all. The button moves between all three positions just fine, but the P or C light does not come on when switching between the modes. FWIW, I left the switch in the middle during my test drive.
So, my questions here are: is the transaxle ok? Will a fliud and filter change help clean things up a bit? And with the rpms being held so long, is the power/comfort switch broken or malfunctioning?
Once again, my apologies for the long post. And I greatly appreciate any and all responses. Thanks everyone!
02-22-2008, 12:39 PM
#403
164K, bad VTCs, 1992? You're not in Houston and looking at this:
http://houston.craigslist.org/car/576512793.html
... are you?
I was thinking of getting that one for a repair/resell in case it wasnt going to sell
Transmission is probably fine, just needs to be cleaned. Mine was terrible until I cleaned the pan and replaced all the fluid. Power/Comfort probably just needs new bulbs. VTCs arent too hard if you have some experience working on cars. Injectors should be checked, as well as coils, and spark plugs... those things usually solve engine performance issues.
http://houston.craigslist.org/car/576512793.html
... are you?
I was thinking of getting that one for a repair/resell in case it wasnt going to sell
Transmission is probably fine, just needs to be cleaned. Mine was terrible until I cleaned the pan and replaced all the fluid. Power/Comfort probably just needs new bulbs. VTCs arent too hard if you have some experience working on cars. Injectors should be checked, as well as coils, and spark plugs... those things usually solve engine performance issues.
02-22-2008, 12:45 PM
#404
<snip>
I found a nice 1992 Maxima SE ithat needs some work. I just don't know how much. She is an automatic with 164k miles on the clock. Cosemtically, she's actually in good shape, save for the typical wear on the leather seats and steering wheel. The front suspension is pretty much shot and most probably will need everything (struts/shocks, ball joints, inner/outer tie rods, endl inks, etc). I can pick this Maxima up for $500, so I don't mind spending a few bones fixing things. Labor is all me, so my only investment would be parts and the typical misc stuff.
I found a nice 1992 Maxima SE ithat needs some work. I just don't know how much. She is an automatic with 164k miles on the clock. Cosemtically, she's actually in good shape, save for the typical wear on the leather seats and steering wheel. The front suspension is pretty much shot and most probably will need everything (struts/shocks, ball joints, inner/outer tie rods, endl inks, etc). I can pick this Maxima up for $500, so I don't mind spending a few bones fixing things. Labor is all me, so my only investment would be parts and the typical misc stuff.
First, the car runs bad. The owner says it needs lifters, but my searches have turned up the VTCs are the actual problem 9 out of 10 times. Here are the symptoms:
-> at idle - she sounds like a broken sewing machine running full tilt. The only sound I can think of is if you put a piece of plastic in a spinning fan blade. This noise climbs and drops with engine rpms. The idle is also very rough, but I don't smell fuel in the exhaust. When I put the car in gear, it almost dies but then comes back to idle (~700 rpms).
-> at idle - she sounds like a broken sewing machine running full tilt. The only sound I can think of is if you put a piece of plastic in a spinning fan blade. This noise climbs and drops with engine rpms. The idle is also very rough, but I don't smell fuel in the exhaust. When I put the car in gear, it almost dies but then comes back to idle (~700 rpms).
idle is more than likely a bad injector or 2
-> take-off from a standstill - Take-off from a standstill is VERY sluggish. But just how sluggish depends on how long the car has been sitting in gear at idle. Just a few seconds, take-off is ok-ish. If I sit for a minute (like at a stoplight), take-off is very, very slow. It's almost like the cylinders are full of fuel (ie. rich), but I don't smell fuel (at least inside the car) nor does the car doesn't buck or complain. She just lumbers on out until 3,000 rpms (see next point).
-> at speed - This is where things get weird. Below about 3,000 rpms, the car is sluggish but moves ok. Once you pass 3,000 rpms, the car smooths out a little and is much more responsive. At WOT when the car hits about 4,000 rpms, she takes off like a rocket! The loud, sewing machine/clicking noises go away and she flies. The motor also becomes silky smooth and pulls HARD all the way to about 6,000 or so when the tranny upshifts.
So, my first question is: based on the info above, is the problem lifters/actuators or the VCTs?
Second issue/question: the tranny. The transmission engages into reverse decently. But when you put the selector in drive, it takes about 5 seconds for the gear to engage. And it does so rather abruptly. RPMs drop to about 400 but the car recovers just fine.
Second issue/question: the tranny. The transmission engages into reverse decently. But when you put the selector in drive, it takes about 5 seconds for the gear to engage. And it does so rather abruptly. RPMs drop to about 400 but the car recovers just fine.
When driving, the tranny shifts ok from gear to gear with no problems. However, at about 30% throttle, upshifts occur at 3,200 rpms or so. At 50-60% throttle, she'll hold the gear to 4,000 rpms. At WOT, shifts are held until 6,200 rpms or so, with one issue. The upshift is so violent that it yanks the wheel hard to the right. I can't imagine with less than 200 hp, there would be that much torque steer. And it doesn't pull at all when getting to redline. Just at the upshift point.
For the Power/Comfort switch, I'm not sure that it is working at all. The button moves between all three positions just fine, but the P or C light does not come on when switching between the modes. FWIW, I left the switch in the middle during my test drive.
So, my questions here are: is the transaxle ok? Will a fliud and filter change help clean things up a bit? And with the rpms being held so long, is the power/comfort switch broken or malfunctioning?
Once again, my apologies for the long post. And I greatly appreciate any and all responses. Thanks everyone!
Once again, my apologies for the long post. And I greatly appreciate any and all responses. Thanks everyone!
just expect to invest about $500 easy into the car right away to make it safe. then some more to make it drivable
02-22-2008, 02:52 PM
#405
Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 240
Erratic Idle at stop lights only! Car about to stall!
Good Afternoon All,
I have a 1992 Maxima SE with 123K.
Recently I've noticed that my car's idle gets erratic when stopped at a light in drive (the tach actually wavers back and forth between 500 and 800 rpm). When this happens it feels as if the car is going to stall.
This only happens when the car is warmed up after being driven a few minutes. I've replaced the Fuel Filter, IAC, Cam Position Sensor, and I recently had the fuel pump replaced in October of '07.
I've read that this is a common problem with the 92-94 SE and I've researched heavily, but it seems like there is no definitive solution. I do not believe that the problem lies with the injectors, coil packs, 02 sensor, or plugs because the car runs awesome at every other moment.
Can anyone probvide some insight into this problem? Is it the MAF? Is it the TPS? Is it the EGR?
Thanks in advance for any insight
I have a 1992 Maxima SE with 123K.
Recently I've noticed that my car's idle gets erratic when stopped at a light in drive (the tach actually wavers back and forth between 500 and 800 rpm). When this happens it feels as if the car is going to stall.
This only happens when the car is warmed up after being driven a few minutes. I've replaced the Fuel Filter, IAC, Cam Position Sensor, and I recently had the fuel pump replaced in October of '07.
I've read that this is a common problem with the 92-94 SE and I've researched heavily, but it seems like there is no definitive solution. I do not believe that the problem lies with the injectors, coil packs, 02 sensor, or plugs because the car runs awesome at every other moment.
Can anyone probvide some insight into this problem? Is it the MAF? Is it the TPS? Is it the EGR?
Thanks in advance for any insight
02-22-2008, 02:59 PM
#406
Good Afternoon All,
I have a 1992 Maxima SE with 123K.
Recently I've noticed that my car's idle gets erratic when stopped at a light in drive (the tach actually wavers back and forth between 500 and 800 rpm). When this happens it feels as if the car is going to stall.
This only happens when the car is warmed up after being driven a few minutes. I've replaced the Fuel Filter, IAC, Cam Position Sensor, and I recently had the fuel pump replaced in October of '07.
I've read that this is a common problem with the 92-94 SE and I've researched heavily, but it seems like there is no definitive solution. I do not believe that the problem lies with the injectors, coil packs, 02 sensor, or plugs because the car runs awesome at every other moment.
Can anyone probvide some insight into this problem? Is it the MAF? Is it the TPS? Is it the EGR?
Thanks in advance for any insight
I have a 1992 Maxima SE with 123K.
Recently I've noticed that my car's idle gets erratic when stopped at a light in drive (the tach actually wavers back and forth between 500 and 800 rpm). When this happens it feels as if the car is going to stall.
This only happens when the car is warmed up after being driven a few minutes. I've replaced the Fuel Filter, IAC, Cam Position Sensor, and I recently had the fuel pump replaced in October of '07.
I've read that this is a common problem with the 92-94 SE and I've researched heavily, but it seems like there is no definitive solution. I do not believe that the problem lies with the injectors, coil packs, 02 sensor, or plugs because the car runs awesome at every other moment.
Can anyone probvide some insight into this problem? Is it the MAF? Is it the TPS? Is it the EGR?
Thanks in advance for any insight
Could be the maf, unplug the wiring harness on the maf, start it up and see if the idle smooths out...Word of caution, the engine will not rev over 2500 rpm with the harness disconnected.
Is the throttle body clean, if not clean it with throttle body cleaner spray, not carb cleaner.
02-22-2008, 05:14 PM
#407
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 15
164K, bad VTCs, 1992? You're not in Houston and looking at this:
http://houston.craigslist.org/car/576512793.html
... are you?
I was thinking of getting that one for a repair/resell in case it wasnt going to sell
http://houston.craigslist.org/car/576512793.html
... are you?
I was thinking of getting that one for a repair/resell in case it wasnt going to sell
It's actually a nice car. Just needs some TLC in a bad way. It should make a nice daily if I can get her running right. Transmission is probably fine, just needs to be cleaned. Mine was terrible until I cleaned the pan and replaced all the fluid. Power/Comfort probably just needs new bulbs. VTCs arent too hard if you have some experience working on cars. Injectors should be checked, as well as coils, and spark plugs... those things usually solve engine performance issues.
Excellent! Thanks for the info. I'm putting a list together to see if the car is worth buying. I sure hope so, as I really like these cars.
02-22-2008, 05:34 PM
#408
Why, yes...as a matter of fact. It's actually a nice car. Just needs some TLC in a bad way. It should make a nice daily if I can get her running right.
Excellent! Thanks for the info. I'm putting a list together to see if the car is worth buying. I sure hope so, as I really like these cars.
It's actually a nice car. Just needs some TLC in a bad way. It should make a nice daily if I can get her running right. Excellent! Thanks for the info. I'm putting a list together to see if the car is worth buying. I sure hope so, as I really like these cars.
It would be great to have another local 3rd gen owner on the .org, and these cars deserve to be brought back into good shape.
02-22-2008, 11:26 PM
#409
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 1
Age old question
Well I've had my Maxima for 9 years now, and she is getting up there in age. 1991 - 195K when the odometer broke. The tranny is only about 5 years old, and the body is still clean. I am wondering about the age old question of converting to a 300zx engine. I've reached a point where I don't want to part with the car, but I want to know what I can pack under the hood. The other option I am wondering about is just changing it over to the DOHC Maxima engine. I'm pretty sure this would be easier (that is if the other is even possible). However, does it still make an extensive conversion i.e. wiring harness, computer, hoses/lines? Just wondering. If these are not options I may just trash the thing. However, I'd hate to do that because it has so much history for my family and I. -Thank you
Last edited by stillssan; 02-23-2008 at 12:18 AM.
02-23-2008, 02:52 PM
#410
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 9
rear defroster
this past summer i got pulled over for tint and had to take it off. when i took the tint off of the tint on the back windshield i guess i did sumthing and now my defroster doesnt work does n e one kno if this is fixable or do i have to replace my windshield? where would i probably go to have this fix
thanks for you help
thanks for you help
02-23-2008, 03:29 PM
#411
Well I've had my Maxima for 9 years now, and she is getting up there in age. 1991 - 195K when the odometer broke. The tranny is only about 5 years old, and the body is still clean. I am wondering about the age old question of converting to a 300zx engine. I've reached a point where I don't want to part with the car, but I want to know what I can pack under the hood. The other option I am wondering about is just changing it over to the DOHC Maxima engine. I'm pretty sure this would be easier (that is if the other is even possible). However, does it still make an extensive conversion i.e. wiring harness, computer, hoses/lines? Just wondering. If these are not options I may just trash the thing. However, I'd hate to do that because it has so much history for my family and I. -Thank you
SOHC to DOHC swap information--> http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=551493
Interior wiring issues associated with the above swap--> http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=553369
02-23-2008, 04:58 PM
#412
my coolant temp has dropped alot while driving a few times. Its very cold here in Chicago. I assume my thermostat is sticking open and needs to be replaced. I have the haynes shop manual but they usually leave stuff out. Is the thermostat located on the front of the motor? Any pictures. From what I have read it seems pretty easy. Is there a bleeder screw? I also want to replace a couple of my radiator hoses and flush my cooling system. Can I just pull the large hoses and pull the thermostat, drain the radiator (should drain with lower hose pulled anyway) and replaces the hoses, fill the radiator. How can I fill the engine? I do not want to start it with no fluid in there, especially on the water pump. Is there a fill point on top? Looks like there is one. Thanks everyone.
02-23-2008, 05:12 PM
#413
02-23-2008, 05:58 PM
#414
this past summer i got pulled over for tint and had to take it off. when i took the tint off of the tint on the back windshield i guess i did something and now my defroster doesn't work does n e one know if this is fixable or do i have to replace my windshield? where would i probably go to have this fix
thanks for you help
thanks for you help
you either need to find a new kit for the defroster (haven't seen one in years), get a little blower one that blows on the window to defrost it.
if you want your defroster back, you probably will need to get the whole glass swapped out at a JY
02-23-2008, 06:00 PM
#415
my coolant temp has dropped alot while driving a few times. Its very cold here in Chicago. I assume my thermostat is sticking open and needs to be replaced. I have the haynes shop manual but they usually leave stuff out. Is the thermostat located on the front of the motor? Any pictures. From what I have read it seems pretty easy. Is there a bleeder screw? I also want to replace a couple of my radiator hoses and flush my cooling system. Can I just pull the large hoses and pull the thermostat, drain the radiator (should drain with lower hose pulled anyway) and replaces the hoses, fill the radiator. How can I fill the engine? I do not want to start it with no fluid in there, especially on the water pump. Is there a fill point on top? Looks like there is one. Thanks everyone.
you should also do this with the front end of the car raised as high off the ground as you can possibly get it. (3 ft)
02-24-2008, 12:10 PM
#416
if I do that then will the fluid run into the motor/water pump? Or will the thermostat have to open befor the fluid runs into the motor/waterpump? I dont want to run the car w/o water circulating around the water pump.
Thanks.
02-24-2008, 03:32 PM
#418
don't worry about water not being around the pump. As long as you can see fluid in the radiator it is in all the NECESSARY places, it is not however likely to be in the heater core. to get it in the heater core you need to bleed the system.
02-24-2008, 10:36 PM
#419
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 6
92 Maxima GXE Draincock
okay so i'm needing to replace my heatercore as it's badly ruptured. so i buy the repair manual and it tells me to drain the coolant out of my radiator. i found that drain plug no problem. second it tells me to unscrew the draincock and it shows me a picture of it right behind my alternator. i go underneath the car and i find no such drain plug and screw near the alternator, nor do i find it anywhere else? can someone please tell me where i should look or even better if someone has a picture of where it is? any help would do.. my maxima has been sitting duck for a month since i can't drive it as the heater core is making a whole load of coolant vapour come out my air vents 
02-24-2008, 11:26 PM
#420
okay so i'm needing to replace my heatercore as it's badly ruptured. so i buy the repair manual and it tells me to drain the coolant out of my radiator. i found that drain plug no problem. second it tells me to unscrew the draincock and it shows me a picture of it right behind my alternator. i go underneath the car and i find no such drain plug and screw near the alternator, nor do i find it anywhere else? can someone please tell me where i should look or even better if someone has a picture of where it is? any help would do.. my maxima has been sitting duck for a month since i can't drive it as the heater core is making a whole load of coolant vapour come out my air vents
02-25-2008, 04:28 AM
#422
Sorry dude, but your not going to find anyplace that sells 6 new injectors for these cars for that price.
I do recommend you stay for away from re manufactured injectors, they tend to have a high failure rate. Go with new injectors only.
Best place to buy injectors---> http://internetautosupply.com/catalog/
02-25-2008, 06:13 AM
#423
02-25-2008, 07:13 AM
#424
Stick with getting new from a reputable source once you have made sure you need injectors.
FWIW, since you have a VG do all 6 at one time. Saves time/money/headaches later on.
02-25-2008, 07:47 AM
#427
if you are wondering if you can swap in the MANUAL transmission from a 92-94, yes you can with some modifications necessary. a simple search of the stickies should yield the pertinent information.
If you want to swap over an AUTOMATIC trans, then you are S.O.L.
02-25-2008, 07:55 AM
#429
Are you refering to the automatic trans or manual trans swaps?
The automatic 92 will not work with the vg30e engine, the flywheels are different, and cannot be swapped.The 3rd gen manuals can be swapped into any of the 3rd gens,but is not for someone with less then moderate mechanical skills.
Before you go any further in this venture, please familiarize yourself with the 3rd generation differences, the 92-94 SE's are quite different from the rest of the 3rd generation line..The stickies and search will yield many answers if you are willing to take the time to find them.
02-25-2008, 09:17 AM
#430
First: you do not have 90 VE, you probably mean 90 SE..
Are you refering to the automatic trans or manual trans swaps?
The automatic 92 will not work with the vg30e engine, the flywheels are different, and cannot be swapped.The 3rd gen manuals can be swapped into any of the 3rd gens,but is not for someone with less then moderate mechanical skills.
Before you go any further in this venture, please familiarize yourself with the 3rd generation differences, the 92-94 SE's are quite different from the rest of the 3rd generation line..The stickies and search will yield many answers if you are willing to take the time to find them.
Are you refering to the automatic trans or manual trans swaps?
The automatic 92 will not work with the vg30e engine, the flywheels are different, and cannot be swapped.The 3rd gen manuals can be swapped into any of the 3rd gens,but is not for someone with less then moderate mechanical skills.
Before you go any further in this venture, please familiarize yourself with the 3rd generation differences, the 92-94 SE's are quite different from the rest of the 3rd generation line..The stickies and search will yield many answers if you are willing to take the time to find them.
02-25-2008, 09:27 AM
#431
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Montana
Posts: 82
Are my 1994 SE Maxima parts Interchangeable to my 1990 SE?...
To make a long story short someone smashed into my 1994 SE DOHC after I put a **** load of money into it. It was hit dead center in the rear so hard it went over the cement block in the parking spot onto a fence and flattened a tree that was growing on the other side of the fence. Are all my new parts ruined/damaged? Can I swap the parts over to my 1990 SE SOHC? Parts Include Tokico HP Struts, Eibach springs the alternator, axles, exaust, brakes, tranny. I assume I can just disconnect the brake lines dismount the entire strut/tower assembly on the 94 leaving the brake caliper/rotors etc. attached to front and rear struts and swap over to the 90 right? I hope so anyway. I also put a centerforce dual friction stage 1 clutch kit in the 94's transmission will it fit in the 90 also? I customized the exaust by replacing the cat with a stainless resonator and in place of the stock resonator a peice of straight pipe and a performance dual outlet muffler. does anyone know what parts I will be able to use what's going to fit? I really liked my 1994 now my rusty parts car becomes my driver wtf
02-25-2008, 09:39 AM
#432
To make a long story short someone smashed into my 1994 SE DOHC after I put a **** load of money into it. It was hit dead center in the rear so hard it went over the cement block in the parking spot onto a fence and flattened a tree that was growing on the other side of the fence. Are all my new parts ruined/damaged? Can I swap the parts over to my 1990 SE SOHC? Parts Include Tokico HP Struts, Eibach springs the alternator, axles, exaust, brakes, tranny. I assume I can just disconnect the brake lines dismount the entire strut/tower assembly on the 94 leaving the brake caliper/rotors etc. attached to front and rear struts and swap over to the 90 right? I hope so anyway. I also put a centerforce dual friction stage 1 clutch kit in the 94's transmission will it fit in the 90 also? I customized the exaust by replacing the cat with a stainless resonator and in place of the stock resonator a peice of straight pipe and a performance dual outlet muffler. does anyone know what parts I will be able to use what's going to fit? I really liked my 1994 now my rusty parts car becomes my driver wtf
Just to clarify for anyone else. the brakes on the rear of a 90 are DIFFERENT than 91 and later. you CAN swap them over as long as all the parts including brackets are swapped over.i
02-25-2008, 09:51 AM
#433
For all of you who have spare parts cars... can you tell me how the newer looking grill is attached to the body
(newer grill is the one with multiple lines and the Nissan Logo in the center of the grill)
and if any of you have a spare new looking grill i'm looking to buy one if it will fit on an older SE ('90)
(newer grill is the one with multiple lines and the Nissan Logo in the center of the grill)
and if any of you have a spare new looking grill i'm looking to buy one if it will fit on an older SE ('90)
02-25-2008, 10:15 AM
#434
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Montana
Posts: 82
For all of you who have spare parts cars... can you tell me how the newer looking grill is attached to the body
(newer grill is the one with multiple lines and the Nissan Logo in the center of the grill)
and if any of you have a spare new looking grill i'm looking to buy one if it will fit on an older SE ('90)
(newer grill is the one with multiple lines and the Nissan Logo in the center of the grill)
and if any of you have a spare new looking grill i'm looking to buy one if it will fit on an older SE ('90)
They fit the same squeeze the clips together on the back of the grills with a pair of plyers gently and it pops right off same thing.
02-25-2008, 10:16 AM
#435
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Montana
Posts: 82
Suspension and brakes will swap (do brakes still attached to struts) Exhaust from converter and back will swap. Clutch will swap. The axles and alternator are different. IF you want to swap the trans then you will need to swap over the axles and hubs.
Just to clarify for anyone else. the brakes on the rear of a 90 are DIFFERENT than 91 and later. you CAN swap them over as long as all the parts including brackets are swapped over.i
Just to clarify for anyone else. the brakes on the rear of a 90 are DIFFERENT than 91 and later. you CAN swap them over as long as all the parts including brackets are swapped over.i
Thanks for the feedback! I get the feeling' I have no idea how much work this is going to be. Hopefully you'll be able to answer more of my questions?
02-25-2008, 10:53 AM
#436
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 1
90 Maxima - what to watch out for?
Hello all. I'm looking at a 90 maxima Automatic with 159,000 miles for a beater car to fix up and probably use a couple of years. Poster indicates that it has loud exhaust. Any particular issues that I should be looking for in the car from 1990? I know fuel injectors tend to be an expensive problem with 3rd generation nissans. Here's the link if anyone is interested in checking it out http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/car/583030387.html
02-25-2008, 10:57 AM
#437
Hello all. I'm looking at a 90 maxima Automatic with 159,000 miles for a beater car to fix up and probably use a couple of years. Poster indicates that it has loud exhaust. Any particular issues that I should be looking for in the car from 1990? I know fuel injectors tend to be an expensive problem with 3rd generation nissans. Here's the link if anyone is interested in checking it out http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/car/583030387.html
how is the transmission?
do all windows work?
02-25-2008, 10:58 AM
#438
Hello all. I'm looking at a 90 maxima Automatic with 159,000 miles for a beater car to fix up and probably use a couple of years. Poster indicates that it has loud exhaust. Any particular issues that I should be looking for in the car from 1990? I know fuel injectors tend to be an expensive problem with 3rd generation nissans. Here's the link if anyone is interested in checking it out http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/car/583030387.html
Several general issues with these cars are covered in there..
02-25-2008, 11:00 AM
#439
it's not that hard to swap the suspension, and since you are already swapping the suspension swapping the trans won't be that much harder as long as it's all done at the same time.