most bose systems are a single din system, but some may have had a cassette/cd player (haven't seen any). my suggestion is to hit up a u-pull-it junk yard and get a cubby thing with the metal brackets from there. then any single din system will fit (or if you got $$$ get a double din setup, no need for the cubby).

http://www.geocities.com/bracecraig/maxima/stereo.html
good tutorial.
fyi: you will want to replace the speakers, at the same time, with aftermarket ones, as well. (see here for more info.)

i also recommend getting a harness adapter, saves alot of headache trying to wire up a new system. no cutting the oem harness, and trying to finger out which wire does what...

 

alright it was ur thread so ill take ur word for it........ but i guess what ended the argument in that thread was the fact that the zinc coating is already gone if there is rust to begin with so i shouldn't worry about gouging the bolt because i cant remove any zinc coating if its already rusted away.... is that right?

 

ok, so i turned the screw on the ecu clockwise and the light goes out, if i turn it back the light comes back on and does nothing, if i leave it turned the light flashes 2-slow, 3 fast, 4 fast, 5 fast, 1 slow. help me out

 

using different directions i got the no trouble 55 code, should the car be running or just on when i run the test? and if im getting a normal read then is there something else that might be causing it to run rich? is 5-600km/tank-hwy normal mileage for this car?

 

that isn't too terribly bad.. it depends how far down you run it before filling it up again. start keeping a running gas mileage calculation.. and 1km/L = 2.35mi/gal. I have done 496mi (800km) one time, but after that i put in like 16 gallons. So i got 31mpg on that trip (which is about 13.2 km/L). the US EPA rating is 24mpg highway, so if you are beating that, you're alright.

 

Thanks. I do have the double din system. It comes with CD and Cassette, I think at that time the GXE came with all options. Sunroof, digital climate control and leather. What is a cubby? The famous junk yards here by Shea Stadium don't let me explore myself.

 

i believe the cubby he is referring to is the bracket that allows you to mount your stereo and cupholder in the place of your factory stereo, mine came with this standard as my factory stereo is the same size as aftermarket ones

 

the cubby is a little drawer or pocket (depends on year) that the factory installed on cars with a single DIN stereo.

 

Does this sound like a bad injector? I hope not. The 1st video is of the my car Idleing in park. The 2nd im revving the car in park up to about 4000 rpms. Its got like a miss that kinda makes a popping sound. Thanks in advance... Chris

VIDEO #1- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H0vAdAlAl3o

VIDEO #2- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TbzLdPq9E6U

 

I have just finished a bunch of work on my Max (K/S and sub harness, 2 injectors, fuel filter, air filter plugs, all new gaskets), I test drove it several times and everything was fine. Got it home and let it idle for a little while (15 minutes) to make sure that everything was working smoothly (I ran a can of Seafoam through on half a tank) and I went out a few minutes ago and the car wont start. Everything looks and acts normal. All lights come one, the battery isn't dead, car cranks over very rapidly but nothing. I am at a loss, I am not sure what to do here. It's kind of wierd. Started and shut it off all day with no symptoms of anything being wrong what-so-ever.

Update: Got it started, dropped a cylinder. I just replaced an injector on this cylinder. Plug is coming out soaked, what is the deal here? Compression seems strong ( I don't have a guage but I definitely know what good compression is) could I have already chewed through a brand new platinum plug? I have switched out coils thinking that may have been my problem but the problem didn't follow. Running the vehicle, it smells like a fuel farm and I think I am dumping an *** ton of fuel into my oil pan.

Where do you recommend I start?

 

Well, you most definitely have a miss going on there..Recent tune up? (plugs/plug wires/dist. cap/ rotor button) if yes on recent tune up, then most definitely look into the injectors as the source of your miss...

Check the resistance of the injectors via multimeter..good injectors should be between 11-14 ohms..

 

sounds like crap to me. the exhaust note is so far off from stock and my speakers suck so badly that I can't discern a miss.

 

It is a miss, without a doubt,(i used my headphones), also, a local maxima guy has the same exact fart can muffler on his. i just diagnosed a bad injector on his the other day(ohm meter#1 cyl.), sounded identical..

 

Yes the tune up has been done...i did all the stuff you mentioned last summer. So I guess as soon as I can ill test the injectors. Thanks for the quick replies...and yes I know "fart cans are for ricers". LOL...oh well

 

does anyone know what the engine code is for the engine that looks like the sohc vg30 from the maxima but its turbo?

thanks

 

I got skipped over, can someone look at my previous post?

Thanks,
Floppy

 

be patient and the guys will reply to your problem

umm i would not have a clue what it could be.

 

You most likely pinched one of the injector o'ring's when you(assuming you done the work) installed the new injectors. this causes tons of fuel to be dumped into the effected cylinder/s

 

VG30E-T

 

Hi..

The heat in my 1990 Se is intermitent. The heater vale stem from the vacuum unit seems very stiff. So, I think replaicng this may help.

There seem to be two different heater valve numbers for 1990. One site had them listed as pre/post 9/1990.

the cost of one vs the other is about two-to-one.

Does anybody know the correct part numbers, what is different between the valves and how do you tell what you need??

Thx,

 

first, before you go buying parts, bleed your coolant system. Check the stickies for more info.

next, check your vacuum lines to the valve for cracks, hardness, or loose ends. also check the electrical connector for corrosion (not a typical spot, but whatever)

but most importantly, BLEED THE COOLANT SYSTEM, first.

 

My right brake light illuminates on the outer, larger light. My left brake light illuminates on the smaller light closest to the center. Ive noticed this on other 3rd generation Maximas. Anyone have a solution?

 

i looked it up on google and all that came up was the z31 engine. i guess ill have to keep looking

thanks for the help tho

 

.......

you mean you didn't know that you can pull a z31 n/a engine and put it straight into a maxima? they're both VG30Es. the "T" in VG30ET just means 'turbo'. kinda how VE30DE is DOHC and anything ending in TT is twinturbo.

the turbo motor can go into a maxima if you do all the wiring and stuff, and turn the turbo around the other way, redo the oil and coolant lines cuz it's turned, and a few other odds and ends, then wire up the ECU and stuff. but 9:1 (n/a motor) is very good for turboing, so what some people do is put the z31 turbo manifolds and stuff onto the stock maxima engine, then tune it themselves (more complicated than a direct swap tho)

 

so... I was driving right... and the cops pulled me over for a headlight being out but the whole time it was cutting off and i would have to up the hood to make it come back on but before i changed the bulbs i saw that the person before me had some type of glue in the connection that goes to the bulb today i just happen to take it off and saw that whatever that glue was has burnt out the insides of the connect any reason why?

 

you mean the headlight connector is FUBAR'd? get a new one.

 

what i was looking for was a pic of the vg30 that was turbo fwd. the one that looks like the maxima engine. im not sure if you have an idea of what im trying to say

 

there IS no factory turbo fwd v6 nissan (unless i'm being stupid today and forgetting something). whichever ones exist were converted to turbo by the owner.

the engine looks the same on the z31 and the maxima. except the valve covers aren't the same color. are you sure you aren't confusing the term 'intake manifold' for 'engine'... cuz with the intakes off, the z engine and the maxima engine don't just look the same, they ARE the same.

i have a feeling you're thinking of someone's custom-intake-manifold turbo maxima, aren't you?

 

Winter Here new turbo projects take off... heres a build
Update on my turbo 3rd gen. heres another
yet another turbo vg this one has some good pics
twin turbo 3rd generation. with pics. this is what u have to go through for twin turbo
My Turbo 3rd Gen heres a good parts list

there is no stock turbo vg with fwd http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_VG_engine (please read)

 

so is the the vg30et that you guys were saying?



if it is, is there any diff in the flow if the im?

the reason i want that is since i live in cali, emissions are a bi... and i want to look as stock as possible

 

no... the VG30ET only came in RWD cars

we told you this already

you didn't listen

there were no stock fwd v6 turbo nissans.

that's just a maxima engine, turbocharged, with a z31t sticker on the manifold that actually says turbo on it. i repeat. that is a STOCK maxima engine/intake. with a turbo.

 

damn im hard headed.

sorry for all the stupid replies

 

Got a whole "new" headlight from the junk yard put it on and the connector too going back to get some fenders for $35 each...thanks man.

 

alright, its been a while since I've thought about my maxima and I want to know if 3rd gen max's are known for faulty transmissions because that is my current problem with my max and all the 3rd gen max's at the junkyards have all their trans pulled out (when I tried to replace the one i had). Its been a problem before i got the car for myself in the first place. I got the money to get it fixed from a professional place and the same problem happened again.

The problem is that the car wont go past 2nd gear and cannot go into reverse. Thats now. Before, it could not go into 3rd gear.

so it was broken -> fixed -> then same problem but worse.

The way it happened was scary. I was coming home from the store and i was at a traffic light. I accelerated normally meaning i wasnt flooring it or anything. Next thing that happens is that a big "THUNK" sound coming from the engine (most likely the transmission). One big thunk and all the car is doing now is reving. at 2nd gear the car goes then revs as if it were in neutral. I had to go out of the car and push it because reverse did not work.

I just want to know if anyone could tell me what is wrong with the trans. I still have a warranty to get my current transmission fixed. But really, im just afraid it will just happen agian.

If it were u would you still keep it or just start savin for a new car?
another thing the transmission fluid was dark and black. this is something the mechanic told us. It might have to do with something about that cuz we changed all the fluids before i started using the car after it was fixed. Only had it for about a month before it broke again.

if anyone could help, thanks.

 

the VG has a weak trans relative to the VEs transmission. NO you can not swap a VE a/t onto a VG (at least not remotely easily)

 

So I have a 1990 max SE that I changed out the engine cause it was seized and then I found the high gears of the tranny were out. I replaced the tranny with a junk yard donor and now it's running, well sorta. It shifts thru the gears fine from start to overdrive but once your there and you fully depress the gas pedel it wont down shift. You can manually down shift it but not by just giving it more gas. So my question is "What tells the tranny to down shift when you give it gas after it's in high gear?" (TPS maybe" and Can you test this device at home. This is my first question here so I hope I did it right, if not please forgive me and aim me in the right direction

Thanks
Darryl

 

run that warranty into the ground thats why they exist ive been thinking about letting pros handle my tranny swap for just that reason, transmissions are one of the most complicated parts on the car most guys who work on them dont even fully understand how they work......just keep tellin em to fix that tranny and it will start to work "eventually" theres nothing wrong with the car just that transmission u tore apart (im guessing u had it rebuilt not replaced)..........also their is something to be said for breaking in a newly built transmission with frequent fluid changes


just keep going back to the mechanic and tell him to fix it right this time

 

So I got no reply on my question about the tranny issue asked earler so let me try an easier one this time just to see if I got this forum thing right. So my 1990 GXE wont pass emmisions, I"ve already did a complete tune up, plug wires, plugs, dist, bug, and filters. It still runs a bit rough at low RPM's is there a prefered plug for this engine? I used double platimum and Im wondering if they are not running hot enough at low RPM's. any reply would tell me that my questions are being heard, if not I will move on with my problems the old school ways.....trial by error......

 

bosch plugs are crap (for our cars) ngk is the proper brand. copper, platinum, anything in between, doesn't matter, aside from the replacement interval.

 

Great thanks for the advice, dont know if thats why it runs rough or not but its cheap enough to change out the plugs to a better fit. Any thoughts on my tranny problem posted above?