by "building" an injector, do you mean every single part is never used before, and then assebled (for the first time), made to order? that is odd.... or are they really remans? remember what I (repeating many others) said, earlier.
I believe Bosch made the originals. they are OEM for many of our parts.

this is a fine place for your questions.

 

Hey all, I just bought a '89 GXE Maxima and I'm having some issues.
It has a salvage title and so I need to get it to pass a brake and light inspection before I can register it here in California.

When I got the car only the low-beams worked but it had some funky wiring. on the passenger headlight there was a wire that connected the red wires to the red wires on the driver headlight. When I changed this back so there wasn't a wire going across my radiator the passenger headlight stopped working. The speedometer lighting also stopped working.

My question is what steps should I take to diagnose the problem?
What should my voltage, amperage and current be reading across the headlights to make the low and high beams work?

Thank you

 

probably the headlight switch. most common issue with lighting issues you describe.

 

My 92 Se 5sp died on me after having it for 2 days. I pulled the valve cover to find a broke timing chain a a 4inch hole in the side of the head!Now with the VE30De Being Hard To Find and for Cheap, i was wonderin what i would need to swap my dead ve30de to the lesser vq30e. OR maybe a diffrent motor? Harness, ECU swap involved? I know the tranny will bolt up. Im not 100% on the motor mounts yet. I need as much info as i can get!... Can someone help me cause i want my "Red Thunder" back on the road!

 

head over to the classifieds section, there are a few people who have VE's for sale.
there is a writeup (sort of) on putting a ve into an original vg car. you should be able to use that info to get started.

grab these e-books, especially EL.pdf
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/1994/
they are the FSM's for a 94 maxima, but will work fine for 89-94 (there was a wiring change in 92, so lucky you; this will be fine)

 

Benstoked Thanks again , for your experienced input , well I heared about the standard brand injector from internetauto supply web site were I have ordered new front control arms to replace on my max then will align and get new tires this was the plan ...... but now!!!! max runnig rough worse after it warms up and diagnoising my my 2 failing # 5 & # 6 injectors , so the new tires may have to wait my tires.

internet auto supply , offers standards as a second choice & lower cost option , I googled standard injectors checked out their site sounds/looks like their injectors are brand new that they build in their usa factory , I am sure Brian or someone else maybe can add some more detail of about the quality/reliability of standard brand injectors by someone with internetauto supply and those whom have tried them money ?money? money? when i get some more should make it simple and just go the best Bosh black dots to match my others from what i am reading

All the best

Scott

 

92 max gxe vg30e auto
but on slow dial up seaching on forum for answers

I have a couple days off and wont have injectors and other parts this week to do more critical repairs/improvments but want to spend some time fixing /improving a few things on my max first I have a annoying prob with my with my seatbealt chime since onwed the car for 8 months its never been right , fisrts want to make clear I always wear my belts shoulder and lap ( Had a good friend recently die from being thrown from his vehicle very sad he was a commercial driver of his own tour bus comapnt all it takes is once ) but I always have worn my belts and it is the law now in florida , when I drive the car witht the seatbelts the chime will come on itermentently and sometimes more often it is very annoying , I have tried to hook all belts even paseneger seat when empty no one usally ever rides with me going to work back and forth , weird sometimes it will stop chiming when I disconect the belt while at a stoped light , anyways was wondering ? and trying to find ? nothing came up for me on a forum search ,

if anyone has done the disconect of the sealtbelt chime , I havent persued yet to trace it down yet thought I would get a second opinon or some tips b4 I do some under the dash tracing and tracking tuesday any I deas and help to adress this would be a time saver
Thanks in advance

Scott

 

Other than starting the car the only other time you would get a seat belt-related chime is when the driver's shoulder belt is not buckled.

On the FSM it shows a swtich at the end of the rail which tells if the belt is buckled, so that should be the first thing to look at.

More info on page 42 on body section of FSM:
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/1994/bf.pdf

 

Awesome! I cleaned the terminals as described here http://www.nissanforums.com/j30-1989...eams-dont.html

and It worked! Thank you!

 

my 3rd gen actually does the seat belt chime if i leave the keys in the ignition and open a door as well

 

sorry, missed the other posts.
if Brian sells 'em, they are good. he doesn't sell sh*t, he stands by what he sells. he has pulled quite a few substandard products off his page.

the chime/warning is "normal". there is a writeup somewhere, to disable the sensor on the drivers side, to eliminate the chime. Some dealers will fix it because the restraint system (seat belts) are covered by lifetime warranty. if you argue well enough that the system is faulty, you may be able to get it fixed for free. a few have been successful, others were laughed at.
mine does it, I am wearing my seat belt, so I ignore it (I can usually jiggle the shoulder clip and get it to stop).

FYI: i would recommend leaving the chime itself alone, can't tell you how many times it reminded me the keys were in, or the headlights were on.
the wiring is in the b-pillar, or center pillar of the car.

 

for some reason ever since i got my factory seats out and the Sparco's in, the no seatbelt light flashes but no chime (though i wear the harness of course), i imagine it has to do with that wiring under the drivers seat

but that chime has come in handy, first car so back in the day i would leave my headlights on and the chime always helped me remember to turn them off, and even still if my mind wanders i forget the key in the ignition and that chime reminds me lol

 

But yea the chime will also go if you open the driver side door and either have the headlights on or have the key in the ignition.

 

Thanks again Benstoked for all your valuable info , I thought if brian had those injectors listed they would be a pretty good generic replacement .. yes I almost forgot that chime is handy and nice to have as a warning to have with lights left on and keys left in ignigtion . nice to know about that lifetime warranty with restaint sys will try my local dealer to see if I can get a free peek/fix at it, if I cant trace down the fix myself
I downloaded the fsm for 94 max off the nico site On dial up one section at a time took a while (LOL) will be very useful for other trouble shooting I will be doing Power door locks havent worked scince I got the car never could find a fuse for locks I read that common for the wiring to be pinched or shorted close to door hinges , about time I get out there and do some electrical tracing
will keep you posted
Thanks again
Scott

 

Thanks jbbons for posting the link/section /page look forward to getting it working right hopefully today and my power door locks too will post if i find interesting fix

 

i assume you mean VG30E rather than VQ? VQ30 only came as a "DE" and was in the 95-99's. As long as you know which one you're talking about that's what matters the most, just don't want you to try and buy parts for a "VQ" that end up not fitting your VG.

 

Yeah Sorry I Ment VG not VQ. But would it be an Easy swap everything matches up? Ive never put a diff motor in a car. I just replaced the motor that was in the car already. I just want to know what i would need to do to drop it in and wire everything up

 

I ment a VG30E i just want to drop a SOHC into the DOHC and if the Harnesses will match or if i have to Get a diff ECU and harrness. I have a motor setup to buy already. i just need to know what else ill need to do, or if it will just all drop in.

 

different ecu and harness. even the electrical system is integrated into the harness, it's not an engine sub-harness.

 

I have taken to many hoses off for replacement, I am having trouble getting them correct on the driver side. I have the valve with the two electrical connections that I need help on. Also the one just below them on the hard metal fitting. Also on top of the trans axle black cover, same side I have a rubber line with a metal u shape fitting connected to it just hanging around not plug into anything. I would appreciate any help. I can take pics or if someone has the vaccum diagram that would help a lot.

Thank-you!
Jay

 

i live in pearl mississippi near jackson and have a 93 maxima... timing belt broke on the previous owner so i got it and replaced ALL 16 valves/seals, cam/crank seals, t-belt, heads resurfaced, and every gasket from block up. its got bout 195k mi and fires right up. two weeks after drivin it trans starts slippin on me and my budget is gone. i got clean ms title and body is straight exept for trunk lid and and minor cosmetics and want to get rid of it. start with 800 takes it will negotiate bein that im not sure what its worth really.if interested u can text at 601-940-3072 or leave a name and number messege cuz i dont answer unknown numbers for any questions and ill try to get pics. pick up only i dont have money to pay for tow/shippin. thanx nick

 

So Are you sayin its not even worth the time? is there any other motors that would be easier to drop in? The Reason Im Doing The Swap is becasue my head on th ve30de has a 4in hole in the side of it. I found that VE30DE's are hard to find and expensive. I paid $500 for the car two days later it died on me. Is is even worth messin with it or should i just crush it?

 

dont crush it, VE's arent totally hard to find, theres some here in the classifieds section or you can get VE's from ebay for a few hundred. IMO just grab a JDM VE from ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/91-94...Q5fAccessories

no other engines that i know of that will fit really, if you want to VG30E swap the VG30E from 2nd gen Maximas/Z31 300zx will work as well, but its a fair bit of work

 

you think a VE is expensive? try finding a 1jzgte for a reasonable price
seriously, they aren't that bad. as chrome said, you may need to look other places.

 

yeah other Nissan/Toyota/Mazda engines can go for alot, VE's are cheap compared to them

 

so today its really sh1tty outside, its been summer warm for the last month and a bit but for some reason we got a sh1tload of snow today. i had to run somewhere this morning, got there alright, but on the way back when i was pulling into the garage it sounds like a squeaky belt in the engine bay, stays if im in P or D and doesnt matter if the heat is on or not. pulled out and went around the block and its still doing it.

is it just from the sudden damp cold weather or something to worry about?

 

belts can slip of they are cold/wet and old. double check, make sure the belts are good, and tight, and make sure the pulleys are clean inside the groove.

 

yeah i hope its just that theyre cold/wet, i checked everything myself plus got a oil change 2 weeks ago and all was good

 

well i pulled her out again, drove to West Edmonton Mall because theres a ton of dry room to work under 1st and 2nd floor parking and its dead today. right when i got there, one of those really loud 2 seconds screeches happened and when i stopped, no more squeaking. it came back when i got home in the garage, but i think the belts just slipping from the wet

 

OK so I am trying to do a clean up on my contacts on my combination switch ( my low beam headlights are not working sometimes the left one works but have tracked it down to be the switch as the culprit I aslo want to index my steering wheeel straight as it is off a few teeth, so reading the haynes manual following procedure , the tamper resistant torx screwss holding the air bag module the haynes manuel says this have to be dicarded and replaced with new ones ???????? would I be able to use the originals with some lock tight ??? what have you other guys done when removing the steering wheel ? I havent priced the new bolts but really dont want to wait for a order to arrive

thanks again for all you input to all my questions

Scott

p/s thanks I think it was ben stoked for tip on jiigling the shoulder belt connection to get the chime to stop simple quick fix , will address that prob after these other more inmprtatnt one s

 

in for info on removing the steering wheel as well

BTW how hard is it to remove the factory airbag? i know as much as to disconnect the battery so the airbag doesnt go off in your face, but i have a new hub+my Sparco wheel to throw on

 

pull the plug, wire up a battery, an pop that bish.

the procedure should be in the FSM.

 

lol spelling fixes are fun (sorry, bored at work; who is Haynes Manuel? lol... sigh.. fml...)
ahem...
I haven't messed with the airbag, so Idk. the only bolts I do know that need replaced are the two break-screws for the ignition switch.
If you need a security torx wrenches, they are easy to get; AutoZone carries them. if you need to replace the screws, just get torx/hex (not security) screws to replace them. Security torx are an annoying joke, that is all.

 

lmao, DavidsFarm on YouTube ripped a airbag from a Chrysler or something and attached a battery to it and threw the whole thing in a lake, it went off underwater and flew to the surface

i just noticed in Aaron92SE's (NWP engineering) quarter mile video that he popped the airbag from his stock steering wheel and its just a hole now so i dont think its too hard

 

LOL Yes Haynes Manuel is the one of the best max techs for to the 3rd generation especially my 1992 auto gxe ( just a joke ) the heat here in latley in central florida and rushed limited time to type make for lots of funny grammer errors ,

Well anyways made some great progress pulling my steeing wheel and carefully dealing witrh the air bag module no probs just need to take your time the first time talked to my mechanic ( Haynes Manuel LOL ) said he reuses those security torx screws all the time just a drop lock tight and good to go torqued them to spec per Haynes Manuel 15- 25 lbs I went 25 lbs best thing I did ,as someone posted/pics b4 about the comboswitch the light sanding of my contacts in my combination switch flushed it with contact cleaner , put it all back together and was nice to find out it worked !!!!!!!!!!!! my low beams are working now nice to make some progress without spending alot of money approx 100.00 saved on a having to eventually get new combo switch I was driving with my highbeams re adjusted lower coundlnt find just the t- 50 size alone so bought the security torx set was 13.95 at the zone ,checked sears craftman was 39. 00 and lowes 29.00



Now next maybe tommorrow after work start diagnosing tracing my power door locks not working never did since I bought it 8 month ago , I am hearing the faint relay under the dash when I push the main door lock switch back and fort guess need to pull door panel off and scheck voltage to silonoids ??? any tips from other with a similar prob they have fixed

Thanks agin for the Help and laughter

Scott

 

yes in the FSM and haynes
1st disco ground trhen positive battery wait ten minutes b4 working around air bag due to it has a capacitor holding a delayed 10 min charge to deploy it , then just be careful (gentle) when removing the module and lay it down trim side down as not to accidently deploy it and injure your self or others . pretty staright forward and easy after the first time dealing with it , wiill have to watch that u tube deployed air bag under water prob make a great emergency raft too

 

pretty sure this was the video

 

well with the squealing, it was doing it this morning still so i took it in, and its the crankshaft pulley. the whole thing is wobbling badly, i work the next few days so theyre going to fix it

irony- the last 2 months ive been saving up a few hundred from every paycheck and tried to reach $1500 so when i started getting my turbo stuff and everything, god forbid something came up i would have spare cash. reached $1500 yesterday, gotta dig into it to fix this now

 

n00bery

a while ago i got a good deal on some rims from a 300zx, cliffs are JDM 300zx got imported, wrecked, and in the partout i got the rims for cheap. theyre 18" Momos. now, keeping in mind i know very little about rims-

the fronts have 225's on them which i know will fit a 3rd gen, but the rears have 295's and i know its near impossible to go over 235's on a 3rd gen. would there be anyway the rears could fit without looking like Hellaflush crap? if anything i could unload these rims for 3x what i paid for them, but theyre really nice. the 295's fit on the rear rims with full contact pitch, and theyre not crazy offset rims

 

the rears are likely gonna be way too wide. tire size means almost nothing, but the size implies at least a 9" wide rim.
and putting the wider rims in the back of a fwd car is
might try them up front, see what happens (unlikely).