i have a code 51 on my 91 max. i have replaced everything from the distributor to the injectors to the plugs and wires/cap and rotor. but i still have a misfire on the #2 cylinder. i hooked it up to a noid light and there is no pulse. any suggestions? could it be the ecu? anybody got one for sale?

 

hmmm... well if you have a 51 that means an injector problem so you can change the ignition stuff a trillion times and it won't fix a damn thing.

how are you hooking up to the #2 cylinder's injector harness btw? it's kinda hidden up under the intake, unless you tested from the 4-pin subharness connector.

anyways if you can i would first check for continuity in your harness. get REALLY long leads for you rmultimeter and check to see if the injector wire is making a continuous circuit back to the ecu harness or if it's disconnected somewhere in between. cuz if you replace the ECU and still get no pulse on the noid light, then you just spent money you should have spent on fixing the wiring instead.

It's possible to be the ECU as well.. if the wiring checks out, then i would open it up and see if maybe there are any cracked solder joints you can fix.

 

Hey to all!

I've got a '94 with 320k miles on it. Headed onto the highway a few days ago and the speedometer and odometer stopped working. Engine sound "high rev" starting off going down the highway.

Made it home (CEL came on at the end of the ride), did some research, determined it was probably the VSS. Just replaced it today and still nothing with the sped/od. No CEL now.

If it's not the VSS, what is it? What could the transmission be doing to screw up the VSS?

 

thanks man, but i got it figured out. my buddy has a 91 max that he let me swap the ecu out of. when i went to do the swap, i disconnected the main wiring harness from my ecu and an oily yellowish substance began pouring out of the plastic sleeve that was covering all the wires in the harness. i have no idea what is was. the only thing i can think of is maybe the guy i bought the car from pressure washed the engine compartment and accidentally sprayed something down the wiring harness at the firewall. anyway, i cleaned out everything with electrical cleaner and re-taped all the connections and swapped the ecu. now my car is running great. i have been working on this car for months and could never figure this thing out. thanks to everyone on this forum for all the help, you guys are awesome.
oh and by the way, i got the #2 cylinder injector connector disconnected and was able to test it with a noid light without removing the intake, it just took a little finesse and a dentist's tool! lol it is possible though
thanks again everyone!

 

my front windows dont go up or down. it sounds like the motors are working fine the windows just wont do anything. could this be from the window regulators? if not what could it be? any help is appreciated!

 

sounds like the symptoms of bad window regulators

 

Hey guys. Im still having O2 sensor problems with my 91 Max se. the sensor is brand new but the guy who had the car before me had the wiring for the sensor spliced in because the connectors were bad. now i have to splice the new one in and i dont know which color wires go to which. there is a green wire, a thick black wire, and a thin black wire coming from the wiring harness. there is a red wire, a white wire, and a black wire coming from the O2 sensor. Which go to which? Anybody got a pic of the connectors so i can match em up? Thanks

 

If you could post a pic that would help...

 

Hello. My name is Jon. I have a 1991 Nissan Maxima and I would like to do a headlight conversion. I was reading alot about the E36 Headlight conversion. I found some BMW Headlights and I wanted to know if any of these would fit in there? The website is http://www.ddmtuning.com/index.php?p...parent=96&pg=1 Also I would like to know what do I need to do this conversion. I know I need the E36 Headlight but what else is required to make this work? I also was reading about the Infiniti FX Projector and it sounds easier. Please Help. Thank you

 

n00b question

to install a engine compartment strut tower bar, you just park on level ground, remove the 3 bolts on the strut tower, line up the holes on the bar and put the bolts back in correct? thats it?

 

pretty much.

 

good to know, i googled it and on one site they were installing one on a Scion and the instructions said you have to remove your wipers and the wiper assembly which made no sense, all the other sites said just park level, unbolt and bolt on

 

you also have to remember that scions are utterly retarded (engineers that can't wrench). Our cars aren't perfect, but I'll be damned if I can't wrench on my own vehicle (or change a battery without removing the tire, first; what the flying @%@#(% ?!?!?!?!?)

 

you have to take off the wheel on Scions to change the battery?

 

idk about a scion (would not supprise me, tho), but the sebring (sp?) my brother had (POS mopar), I believe the "new" beetle, the list goes on.

 

I have a 92 manual max with 292xxx miles. The brake fluid is leaking. Sometimes the clutch sticks down when the brake fluid is low. Does anyone know of a quick CHEAP fix (there's a reason why I'm still driving this thing ).

 

clutch and brake are two totally separate systems, completely independent of each other. is your clutch reservoir low, or the brake reservoir?
edit: congratz on such a high mileage 3rd gen.

 

is it possible to drop the car 2'' and still run 18's?

 

i have a 89 SE that's on it's 2nd motor. the original motor was replaced with one from an auto, the work was done at my dad's work, so i wasn't really involved, but if i remember correctly, but i don't recall anyone ever getting a ECU from an auto to go with the engine. the reason i ask is because now the ECU is broken, the self diagnose screw just spins and spins and spins, and the check engine light flashes 1-2-3-4-5 over and over again. so i obviously need a new computer, the question is, do i get one with a 72 on it for a manual transmission, or do i get one with a 73 on it for an auto?? didn't the SE motor have different injectors than the GXE??

 

Hey I got it for free =D

I wonder how long it'll last, cuz I after this goes I can't get another car. It didn't make any sense to me either, just noticed that after I refilled the brake fluid this happened much less often... Also every other time I try to start it, it doesnt work and I have to wait an hour and try again or roll down a hill to go.

 

89-91 SE had the same engine as 89-94 GXE's, VG30E. the 92-94 SE had the VE30DE which had different injectors, so your 89 SE has the same engine as a GXE

 

awesome, i'll just get another 72 ECU, thanks

 

that's kind of a retarded question....

you can run 24's on a 2" drop..... if you simply run a bare rim without a tire.

you can't jsut say "18's" cuz wat REALLY matters is the OUTSIDE diameter of the tire, not the rim diameter. And the width/offset of the wheel. And the width/profile of the tire. Maybe the 18's you want are flat out too wide to run when dropped... but you could run into the same problem with 15's if you get wide-azz 15's. Then offset determines how far out or far in the wheels sit relative to the hub (more offset = closer to body).

That said, anyone running a 2" drop on a 3rd gen is a moron/retard due to the fact that the geometry of the suspension gets totally shot to hell when the car is lowered that much. Matt93se has said that 1.5" is as far as you can drop before the geometry problems outweigh the advantages of the stiffer springs/lower center of gravity. Easy fix on a z31 (they make a roll center spacer) but not so easy on a Maxima cuz the steering knuckle/spindle are combined unlike the z31 where they are separate.

 

Can someone PM me some help on how to change the in cabin filter in my 1989 maxima ?

 

simple:

(there isn't one)

 

lmao at the pic

and yeah there is no cabin air filter

 

Cylinder 4 has lost compression and plug is covered in Oil. A friend suggested I might be able to pull the oil pan and remove the piston to replace the rings, thus saving a tear down.

Has anyone heard of this being done successfully?

 

i've never heard of anyone replacing a piston on one of these engines w/o taking the motor out and removing the corresponding head, no... plus it's always a good idea to check that particular cylinder wall to see if its surface is OK.

frankly you're better off plucking an engine from a junkyard. the cost of all the gaskets you'd need (intake, head) PLUS the cost of a piston/rod/bearings PLUS the machining cost likely needed in order to restore the cylinder wall and whatnot is gonna end up costing more. Of course with a junkyard engine ALWAYS check that the timing belt is intact before buying it (so you know the engine isn't trashed) then ALWAYS replace the timing belt/tensioner before installing the engine.

 

I've owned this vehicle for 8 years and feel more comfortable repairing the engine as I know how it's been driven and maintained. Would that change your thoughts on scrapping for a junkyard motor? This motor has 122k miles on it also. It's my to and from work car, hoping to do the minimal, but if pulling it is the only option, that's probably the route I will go.

 

knowing how it was maintained imo is not as important as knowing how strong your skills are when it comes to doing internal engine work. plopping and dropping a motor is relatively easy. Taking apart an engine and replacing a piston doesn't sound hard but i know there's alot of "gotchas" waiting to come out and bite you in the **** if you knick this or are not quite careful enough measuring there or don't use enough assembly lube here etc etc.

But if you can find a decently low miles motor at the JY that has even compression across all cylinders when hand-cranked, then personally that's still the route i'd take, regardless if i had owned and maintained the car for a long time, unless i KNEW i had the skills to rebuild an engine without making any small-turned-big mistakes.

 

thanks. i just wanted to lower my car a bit. most of the springs i saw were for a 2" drop so i was just wondering. ill probably just lower it 1'' and figure the whole offset thing. rims/tire sizes are so confusing!

 

well, if it helps, the rear offset is the only one to worry about; it never changes, regarless of drop. the fronts will easily clear whatever offset you get, as long as the rear does, as well. a quick search should get the numbers people commonly run.
as to the actual tire size, http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html is a great calculator to help you chose new tire size, and keep the stock diameter.

 

just use Eibachs, they are 1.2" drop. 18x8 with a +30mm offset will sit pretty flush when dropped, and just use the calculator ben linked to so you can find a tire size (235mm for 8" is good) that will get you somewhere near 25.5" outside diameter.

 

I hear what you are saying, and admittedly I'm not a well versed mechanic, but pretty mechanical. I'm pretty good at getting into projects and getting them right by taking my time but I'm not sure i want to put the time into the learning curve, the idea of a JY or a reman is sounding better as I explore the cost of all the parts I would need to do the job right.

I'm going to look around locally, any suggestions for legitimate websites who sell rebuilt Nissan engines?

I might save the energy for the 62 C10 restoration I have on the to do list..Ha!

 

hey im back. i desperately need new leather seats. i want to know if other max or infiniti seats would fit and if so which ones. thanks

 

without it being lowered will a +45 offset sit flush? the wheels 7.5'' wide

 

Check out www.everdrive.com They offer a 3 year unlimited mile warranty on all their parts, even engines, if installed properly. I believe the 3rd gen motors range from 1100-1300 or so on there and they are "remanufactured" so slightly better off than a junkyard motor..however in fine print it says long block assembly only, so youll have to do some swapping of parts from your motor so consider that additional cost as well.

 

not a chance. 45mm offset on anything wider than ~6.5" won't fit the rear of these cars (tire will rub the strut)... and even then your car would look TOTALLY rediculous cuz of how far in they'd sit. If you have some 7.5" +45mm wheels that you want to put on the car you'll need to go for a 15-20mm spacer to bring them out some.

 

i was thinking about buying this VE 5spd as a parts car, so i can get the 5spd swap stuff incase i ever want to swap and keep the rest as just a parts car, but how is it possible that its a 91? 92-94 SE had VE but this is a 91.

http://edmonton.kijiji.ca/c-cars-veh...dIdZ182091270#

i was thinking maybe he is just looking at the door sticker, because my 92 GXE was manufactured in December 91 but its a 92 model

 

i have a 94 se auto but i want to add a HUD to theguage cluster. does anyone know a write up because craig brace's page is gone and does anyone have a HUD and its components for sale?