the sidemarker lights don't actually function as turn signals at all unless you do a little bit of cutting and splicing with the bumper-mounted signal harnesses, which I did on my car. it's actually a big help in terms of visibility if you do the rewire, because if the car next to you can't see your taillights and can't see the front of your bumper, then they'll never know your signal is on and therefore won't knowingly speed up or slow down to make room for you.

but anyways, you can get amber-colored bulbs to go in the rear portion so that part is not a big deal. however the clear corners themselves are NOT road-legal per Federal vehicle safety regulations, and there was a non-compliance recall issued for them, because the reflector itself is white instead of amber, which is illegal, even if the bulb inside it is amber when lit.

but, odds are nobody is going to say anything about it. hell as many morons as run around with heavily tinted taillights and headlights, if cops won't give them tickets, then i'd be real surprised if they bothered you for having clear corners.

Quote:

NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number: 09E012000
Summary:
SABERSPORT IS RECALLING 16,270 COMBINATION CORNER AND BUMPER LAMP ASSEMBLIES OF VARIOUS PART NUMBERS SOLD FOR USE AS AFTERMARKET EQUIPMENT FOR VARIOUS PASSENGER VEHICLES. THESE HEADLAMPS FAIL TO CONFORM TO THE REQUIREMENTS OF FEDERAL MOTOR VEHICLE SAFETY STANDARD NO. 108, "LAMPS, REFLECTIVE DEVICES, AND ASSOCIATED EQUIPMENT." THESE LAMPS DO NOT CONTAIN THE REQUIRED AMBER SIDE REFLECTORS.
Notes:
THIS RECALL ONLY PERTAINS TO AFTERMARKET REPLACEMENT EQUIPMENT AND HAS NO RELATION TO ANY ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT INSTALLED ON VEHICLES PRODUCED BY THE VEHICLE MANUFACTURER.

 

Could someone answer my previous question though.., this is very important to me. Im about to call a machine shop now.

 

seriously, I would call an exhaust shop, first. way cheaper than a mechanic, and will probably be cheaper.

 

I tried the one in the 17603 area code region here in PA. Only one thats around me is Scotts Exaust.

We had the car there and they didnt want to work on it.

So they sent it this mechanic and Good to Go on manor street. I guess this is a terribly hard job that mechanics don't want to touch? ((I mean you do have to take a good bit of the car apart to get to the engine.))

 

Does anyone have a link to a free repair manual for a 89 Maxima? I went on the read before link, but autozone does not have anything. And what is the deal with the 15 post rule, kinda confussing?

 

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/1994/

 

to complete teh thought CapedCadaver had:
15 posts encourages members to search, and offer advice on problems. there is a whole lot of "gimme, gimme, gimme," not as many who can give, give, give. no offense to you, that is why we have this thread.
also, most subjects are covered, at least once, so rather than repeat ourselves over and over, it is motivation to use the search, and not ask redundant questions (doesn't always work, though )

 

Warpspeed Y-Pipe showed up today.

About time to repair the busted manifold stud....

Spoke to a Mazda tech who suggested a simple drill guide, used on the existing maniford hole.

Then use a bolt - he said more times than not, this repair works and it is fast.

I know, I should replace them all, but I'm not really in a position to remove the crossmember -

probably wish I would of, we'll see.

 

Got ya. Thanks. And thanks for the link Cadaver. Its true I can not give much advice. But I like to try to do the work myself if I can, just don't know much about it. I traded for this car and it has turned into a project till my son turns 16. Should be a great first car for him, but has some minor issues such as brakes and calipers had to be changed. Now the car will not turn over. And the power steering needs to be fixed but I don't know to what extent. Looks like a great reference site and the son should like the photos so that he can get some ideas to spruce up the looks. Thanks again.

 

so the 94 FSM applies to the whole 3rd gen?

 

There's small variations in the 89-91 models, but for the most part the 94 manual will work. 92-94 are all the same.

 

The only big difference that won't be there for the 89-92 models is the AC. Some other small details as well but the rest is good enough.

 

Well I hope no cop pulls me over for it, I just installed clear ones today and it looks SOOO much better!

I mean.. just look at this Lamborghini. Its legal, and look how SMALL their sidemarker lights are.

http://www.automopedia.org/wp-conten...o-supercar.jpg

 

honest to god if you get pulled over for clearcorners i will be extremely surprised, i highly doubt cops will notice them, and if they even do see them they probably wont give a flying crap.

 

time for my own n00bery

i finally ordered up some springs, Ksport GT's with IIRC a 2" rear drop and 2.2" front drop. i have never worked on anything to do with suspension myself before, would it be suicide to try installing them myself? and do i need anything else besides basic tools? i did some researching and some sites said if you dont have a camber meter, mark a knuckle or something so you dont fukc up your camber. reading stuff like that makes me worried about doing it alone.

and moar n00bery, do i need to upgrade struts or anything? i got new struts a couple years ago but thats as far as i know, again ive never worked on anything suspension related before so bear with me

 

strut compressors

with a 2" drop, your geometry will be fukt, anyway, so ignore. limp to an
alignment shop, afterwords.

you need upgraded struts (tokico or koni: any other brand will insta-blow.)

 

Replace my rear caliper due to them being froze. When I connect the brake hose to the caliper does the hole in the connecting bolt have to be inline with the brake hose or does it matter?

 

banjo bolt. nope, they are designed to be in whatever position they stop on.

 

Cool. Thanks

 

a strut compressor is universal, right? this ish seems hard, might not do it myself now

are Koni struts still available? i remember that thread from last week with Tokico's being discontinued

 

yeah, pretty universal. Down here, Autozone "rents" free tools out; put a deposit on them, use them, bring them back, get the deposit back. might see if anybody does that near you.

I am sure somebody, somewhere has some tok's/konis in their warehouse. shox.com still lists them.

 

looked on Shox and they have Tokico's still, i'll try to get them mid June.

 

call before ordering; they may not have taken them off, yet. or they may sell out before then.

 

one more thing, are struts REALLY that hard to do yourself? every site i looked at said theyre hell the first time to do. i need to learn how to do this stuff myself, and i can take my time. (my work is a straight line 5 minutes away so i can take the bus for a couple weeks worst case). i do have a cousin thats a mechanic so i could call him up if i get stuck.

so basically swap the struts out, install the springs, and get a alignment? does anything get wrecked driving to get the alignment? you guys are gonna be proud if i can do this myself

 

not hard. work slow, take your time, be safe. takes some elbow grease, but not hard.

 

fronts are easy since you swap the whole strut assembly so all you gotta do is transfer the spring over to the new strut.. new strut mounts are recommended if there's any cracks in your current ones for front or rear

rear struts require a big frigging wrench (pipe wrench works well) for the gland nut and a little bit of patience to jimmy the stock strut guts out into a bucket before you can install the cartridge in its place. if this is your car's 2nd replacement in the same casing then it should already be a cartridge in there already which makes r&r go quicker and easier for the rears.

alignment is always suggested especially since many of the aftermarket struts have slotted holes for front camber adjustment. nothing *should* change in the rear though since you reuse the original casing/spindle/perch.

 

doesnt sound THAT bad, i think i can do it myself.

final n00bery, are Koni's discontinued? i'm going to call up Napa and see by any chance if they have Koni's or Tokico's. if i cant find any locally i'll grab the Tokico's from Shox.com if they still have them actually in stock

 

maybe someone can save me the time of calling tomorrow morning anyone know if NAPA would have Tokico or Koni struts, or can they do custom orders?

 

depends; the one down the road from me can order parts for me (had them do it a couple of times for the Prelude), the "hub" location in the middle of town wouldn't know special order if you showed them the place to get it from.

call and ask, only they can tell you.
I will tell you they do not carry Tok's or Koni's, normally.

 

i shall call tomorrow morning and report back

 

didnt even know what Tokico or Koni were, and doesnt know anyone who would have them so i'll have to order them

 

Shameless self bump.

 

this is the 3rd gen section, you want the 5th gen section 2 links up...

 

these are the correct Tokico's right? 3 sets left in stock and ends in 21 days, i'll have the money from my paycheck in 2 weeks

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissa...Q5fAccessories

 

Hey guys, gonna try to keep this short.

I need to swap out my bad 5spd transmission. I have the parts, I don't have the experience. I've done many 240sx transmission swaps and clutch jobs with my friends so I'm not completely incompetent. Is the swap just a straight forward unbolt unplug affair? I'm not going from auto to 5spd, I just need to take out the bad transmission, put the new one in along with the new clutch.

I have the FSM, nforce, and this site so I should be able to do this no problem right? Any suggestions or difficult spots I should worry about?

 

pretty straightforward if it's just a tranny replacement (ie not swapping from automatic). remove starter and unbolt slave cylinder and unhook electrical connectors and unbolt shifter rod (the one with the vertical bolt.. leave the horizontal-studded rod alone and unbolt its whole bracket from the tranny). you can undo the 2 nuts on the bottom of the rear trans mount, and the 4 bolts from the front of the front trans mount, then just unbolt it from the engine. there's a few bolts that might be hard to see at first (ie the ones near where the passenger side axle attaches) but overall it's one of the easier manual trannies i've pulled off a car.

 

you forgot "remove driver's axle."
you can remove the passenger's axle, too, but it's a pain. some say it's not worth the effort, and it helps line it back up during reinstall.

 

i've removed/reinstalled a manual tranny a few times without pulling the driverside axle out of it, actually. my ve5 tranny still has its axle in it but it's sitting on the floor.

 

How did you remove the transmission without first getting out the drive axles? I can understand not having to take out the passenger side one but the driver's side? Please explain.

 

you just pull the tranny off with the axle still attached.... i mean you have to pop it out of the wheel-side of course, but you don't have to take it out of the tranny.