chrome91

iTrader: (1)

yeah i think theyre 9" wide or 8.5" wide, looks like i'll try to just sell them then. plus the odds of finding another pair of front rims so i could use them without looking like a loser is slim, for all i know the rims could maybe never have been sold in North America

popook88

Hey guys,

So the '89 max I just bought has been improperly lowered. I'm not sure if the springs were cut or heated or whatever. I bottom out all the time and I feel every bump on the road. I decided that I need a new suspension to bring it back to stock.

As far as resources, I have a local junk yard that has a few 3rd gen maximas ('90 '92 '94) also I have an autozone that loans you pullers and some other tools.

My questions are should I pull parts from the car other than springs, struts and shocks? And what tools will I need to complete the job? What tools should I rent from autozone?

Thanks!

Czcrd

Hi.
I've just spent days reading a searching this problem and have been bouncing between the engine and computer.

I have a 1994 VG30E with 114,000 miles.
I am experiencing the what seems to be a common problem with bucking, hesitation and general stepping on the pedal car no go situations BUT!!! This only occurs after the car has been driven, shut off and restarted.

In the morning I can fire it up and drive it for hundreds of miles with no problem, but god forbid I have to stop for gas and shut the engine off, once I do so I'll fire it back up and experience very low idle, bucking, hesitation BUT AGAIN!!! if I floor it, the car downshifts and accelerates like a bat out of hell.

This is what I have done:
Spark Plugs - replaced
Distributor Rotor - replaced (Only rotor)
Throttle Position Sensor - tested with a brand new one (same symptoms)
Ignition coil - resistance measured well within specs
MAF - measured well within specs
Coolant Temperatures Sensor - resistance also measured well within specs
Fuel filter - replaced
PCV valve - replaced
Various Vacuum hoses - replaced
Injectors - resistance measured well within specifications
EGR - Tested (The computer had a code stored for the EGR although the Check Engine Light is not lit)
Cleaned the Intake Manifold
Cleaned the Idle Air Control Valve

One thing I have not checked is the Knock Sensor largely because I have no idea where it is, but from what I've read it is not something I can do without tearing the Intake Manifold apart.

One problem I have encountered is that even though the spark plags have been gaped and replaced the #6 cylinder keeps fouling and is wet every time I remove it from the engine and when the car is started sometimes it isn't running on all 6 cylinders.

Like I said the bucking, stuttering and loss of power only occurs when the car has been driven, shut off and restarted. After a while of having to floor it and back off and finagling the gas pedal it may go away, but sometimes it won't.

Please and thank you for any input as this is extremely frustrating!

Vic

chelebelly

Hello, I was hoping you would help point me in the right direction ?
Short Version:

1990 nissan maxima, replaced clutch and now... looking for a bellhousing, + clutch (master to slave) hose #30855-85E10 + transmission leaks (gushes) engine oil )..(help)
I live by DFW airport (euless,irving,arlington) I am frustrated with searching and am asking for directions.
I really appreciate any input you have to share, there are others out there(i just know it) ..

I appreciate you,
michele (chelebellyalso@yahoo.com)

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

quick fyi: struts and shocks do the same thing, but are mounted differently (). our car only has struts.
other parts to pull depend on your car. if the ash tray is missing (usually the back ones, that are never used anyway ), snag one.

another FYI: the rear struts are actually part of the rear hub assembly. they are designed by nissan to be rebuilt, not replaced. Aftermarket has fixed that.
also, beware used (junk yard) shocks. they are usually stock,(15+years old) or monroe (cheapest crap you can buy). I recommend buying new struts, and using at least KYB.

MacPherson spring compressor from autozone should be all you need. take care when using one, if you have never done it before, make sure you read the directions.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

was just checking CarDomain, is this guy on here? Turbo VG





BTW dont know if i mentioned or not, but my squeaking was caused by the crankshaft pulley, i never gave throttle when i checked my belts but a mechanic did and it was wobbling horribly, i left it there to get fixed because it looked so bad that it was going to give out any second, all is good now lol

TNSIV

I bought a 94 GXE, It was in perfect shape, very clean and straight. After a month of driving the tranny went out. I looked for two months for a tranny (auto) but couldnt find one. I had read that other people had done a 5spd swap on this car and kept the SOHC motor. I fould a great deal, a wrecked 93SE running and driving for $200 so I jumped on it. I cant find a flywheel to fit the SOHC motor, I had read that a 88 300z flywheel would work so I bought one of those..... Needless to say, it doesnt, it bolts up but the starter wont work. Im almost at the point of taking a chainsaw to the car, I have already bought new, axles (both sides) flywheel, clutch, all new seals for the 5spd, Installed the brake and clutch pedals, moved all the SE parts over, wheels, dash, brakes. Ohh FYI , the Dohc motor has 177,000 miles and has alot of valve train noise, the Sohc has 85,000 miles and is perfect, no noises or smoke so I dont want to do the engine swap if I dont have to... Is there a specific flywheel for this application?

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

dont know alot about the swap myself, but i do know you can use the VE 5spd or the VG 5spd for a swap, VE you just need different brackets IIRC.

also, not worth swapping engines unless you have alot of time, you need to change alot of wiring and other stuff

popook88

Oh I see, so would these parts be the right ones for the job?
KYB 235051 GR-2 Strut
Exc. Electronically Adj. Susp.; (For Adapting Sonar II to Non-Sonar Suspension II); Front Right
Exc. Electronically Adj. Susp.; Front Right

KYB 235052 GR-2 Strut
Exc. Electronically Adj. Susp.; Front Left
Exc. Electronically Adj. Susp.; (For Adapting Sonar II to Non-Sonar Suspension II); Front Left

2x KYB 365079 GR-2 Cartridge Rear
Exc. Electronically Adj. Susp.; (For Adapting Sonar II to Non-Sonar Suspension II); Rear Right
Exc. Electronically Adj. Susp.; (For Adapting Sonar II to Non-Sonar Suspension II); Rear Left
Exc. Electronically Adj. Susp.; Rear Left
Exc. Electronically Adj. Susp.; Rear Right

What does the Exc. mean?
Also, do I need to buy KYB strut boots?
finally should the OEM springs I pull from the junkyard be alright or is there a place to get new ones for cheap?

Thanks,

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

those should be them.
Exc. means "except"
oem springs from a junkyart should be fine, you may see if a member living near you is upgrading, or has, and wants to get rid of the originals. If you lived near me, I would give them to you, in exchange for helping me swap out the rears

MyMaxWillNeverDie

iTrader: (1)

hello everyone, i just got a 90 maxima and am loving it. everytime i searched for max stuff on the net, links to here came up, so i thought i'd sign up and participate.

so, my odometer doesn't work at the moment, and im kinda worried about the gas mileage in this thing. (especially compared to my last car) using known routes and there mileage, i think im getting 17-20 MPG, but im driving VERY conservatively. i just did a tune-up (oil/filter, plugs, air filter, fuel filter) and it hasn't really made a difference. im wondering what some of you are getting at the moment, and if there is anything more to check and/or replace?

looking forward to learning more and hanging out around here.
thanks in advance

A_FITZ

I get 20MPG at best "MyMaxWillNeverDie" .. ((And thats highway.))

I have a 1993 Nissan Maxima SE. It has a Front and rear exaust gasket manifold leak ((Mainly because of 2 broken studs out of the 8, so pressure escapes)), and that doesnt help.., but also id like to ask every while im talking about it, guys is this a simple fix?

Mechanics will charge around $600-750 bucks..I don't have that kind of doe to just throw out. My friend has a garage and works on his car a little. Was wondering if we could do it.

MyMaxWillNeverDie

iTrader: (1)

@ A-FITZ. thanks, my buddy said my MPG was probably on average for the age of the vehicle. I've never had a 6cyl or an automatic car before. oh well, i guess. thanks for the fast reply

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

alright, well ive started getting all of my turbo stuff, i found a Z31 exhaust manifold on Ebay but someone bought it before me. anyways, havent had luck finding a Z31 turbo itself, but i found a guy with Z32 turbos and lots of other Z parts, which would save me a few hours drive to the Nissan junkyard or waiting for a Z31 turbo to get to the junykard here

would a Z32 turbo work in conjunction with the other Z31 stuff or no?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

you might as well just get the manifolds from a z31 then buy a brand new turbo that suits your power needs. z32 uses twins, so a single z32 turbo probably won't have enough air throughput for what you want. the manifolds are also totally different between the z31 and z31. and remember, only the driver side manifold is turbo specific.. the other ones are the same for n/a or turbo.

ujm

Sorry if this is a reposted repost of all reposts, but I thought I heard someone say that there is a discount offered on the Y-pipe?

Thanks in advance!!!!

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

so basically i can use a turbonetics/Jim Wolf or some other turbo in conjunction with the Z31 exhaust manifold?

and i just need the driver side turbo manifold from a Z31 and the other side can be from a NA Z31? again thanks for the info, my n00bness is >9000

jbbons25

iTrader: (2)

Another noob question coming in.

Lately I have been feeling some vibration on the left side when driving highway speeds. Today I found out that the top chunk of iron on the rear transmission mount broke off. It was an aftermarket who knows where my dad got it. Would that cause the vibration?

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

another n00b attack by me

would this cluster fit a 3rd gen? just confused because of how Cefiro/3rd gen Maximas/i30 are all related, i know the bracket on top wont fit but would the wiring?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissa...Q5fAccessories

A_FITZ

Guys, I figured why my Maxima looks ugly from the front. Its that damn turn signal lamp/light case!

I want this to be my 1st modification. how can I change the color of this to clear? Or can someone find me a different one to put in?

Example:

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

no.
looks more like a 4h gen cluster
ebay.
http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=max...&_sop=15&_sc=1

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

yep, Ebay clears. mine are a generic Ebay ones, fit good

swr

was wondering if any of you out their have experienced a problem with squeaking rear brakes supposed to be common to 1992 maximas mine is 92 gxe , I read somewhere I believe ?? it was owens family web site that 1992 rear brake backing plates needed to be changed and their was a problem with originals ???? , any ways my shoes are fine, when I clean the drums and pads ect.. with brake cleaner the squeaking will stop for a few days , I was considering trying wagner themo quiet shoes but dont want to wast my money if the squeaking still will be a problem with out chaning to the upgraded backing plates first any input put would be appreciated


All the best

Scott

swr

any recomendations for a nice looking/fitting bra/ nose cover for 1992 max gxe the love bugs ect.. are getting bad here in florida plus I want to cover up a few dings in front edge of hood but let my my max breath with good airflow to radiator still , was looking at le bra,s on jc whitney I would like one that alows you to lift hood without taking it off

any input on brands / styles /cheapest prices where to buy would be greatly appreciated also if you have a pic with a 1992 with a bra on so I can compare looks thanks for any input


All the best

Scott

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

I recommend something like this: http://www.automotivearticles.com/Clear_Bra_3M.shtml
le-bra type bras always look ****ty. never fit well, look tacky, and don't compliment any car.
in addition, they can be a pain to get as close to correctly installed as possible.
did I say UGLY?!?!? I meant it.

ujm

Being in a hurry, I took the car through a quick lube. When they removed the old oil filter, they dripped oil all over the exhaust, still smells, two days later.

And they overfilled it to boot.

Nice.

I decided to have a look, or attempt to look, at the exhaust manifolds.

The end bolts/studs are gone from the drivers side on both front and back.



And the front manifold might even be cracked at that point, even more of a bummer.

I'm not sure I want to tackle this, I've taken out broken bolts many times before, but this sure looks like a cramped space - is it any better from underneath, enough better that it is not as horrible a job as it appears to be?

Or something best left to someone with a floor lift and the ability to take my cash?

Dhunterx

iTrader: (6)

Just got a simple question. My cat has an exhaust leak, and I'm not too keen on fixing it or replacing it. Anyone know if the test pipes they make for 4th gens will fit our cars? No emissions here, so I don't care about the legality of the issue, just interested on replacing a leaking section on the cheap. Thanks.

ujm

Here you go: http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...ust-studs.html or

http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...-manifold.html

Two of many.....

ujm

Ordered the Warpspeed Y-Pipe today

and had a shop flat turn down the stud repair job!

Dhunterx

iTrader: (6)

Or can someone at least tell me the length of our stock cats? I looked for replacements for our cars and see a whole mess of different #'s.
Was thinking of either these two 4th Gen test pipe 5th Gen test pipe

Just wanted to know if either of these two would bolt up in place of my stock, leaking cat.

Garf

iTrader: (1)

Do 4th Gen rims fit our cars?

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

sure do, IIRC all gens but 1st and 2nd do (1st and 2nd were 4 lug)

A_FITZ

I just got these exact ones in. Ive never replaced one of these before so im going to have the shop thats working on my car do it for me anyway. Im sure they can do it for free since the cost of the exaust leak and gasket/bolt job is going to cost me.

ONE QUESTION THOUGH, WILL MY TURN SIGNALS still be orange when putting the turn signal on through these clear lamps? Just asking, and its not illegal have this right

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

lol it literally takes 5 minutes to do it, just pop the hood, look near the top and theres a little screw holding the light in. unscrew it, pull the light towards the front bumper, and out it goes. twist out the bulbs, remove old light, pop bulbs into new light, wedge in the light and put the screw back in.

youre not touching your turn signals though your turn signals are the 2 strips at the very front of the bumper, your cornerlights just come on when you signal so that the curb/other hazards get illuminated. some models came with clearcorners from the factory even

maxidavenmb

does a borla hedder system fit on the '91 well? Is there a lot of tweaking involed?

maxidavenmb

has any one ever put a borla system on a '91?

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

never seen a borla [anything] for a 3rd gen.

A_FITZ

WHOA



So, is this worth it?
If my car would have to go to a machine shop, then replacing both
-Cylinder Head Gaskets (Both Banks)
-Exhaust manifold Gasket (Right and Left Bank)
-Head Gasket Set

This would cost me $1435.77. Is this worth it for my 93 Nissan Maxima with 242,000 miles on it

Also, if it wouldn't have to go to a machine shop, it would be only $322.77

I think he said if the bolt is broken into the exaust head or gasket.. broken off into something and he cant get it himself then it would have to go to a machine shop.

Please respond to this. Im thinking about selling my Maxima as is, and I dont even know how I should sell it for. Bought it for $2000, 10,000 miles ago.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

all of that, for what, broken exhaust studs?
sounds right, based on his thinking (remove heads, fix studs, ???, profit)
an exhaust shop will do it for under $100 per broken stud (I was quoted $50 ea., anyway)

A_FITZ

Would the machine shop take my engine out and do it?

Like..could they fix each broken stud if I just drive the car itself in there and ask them to do it?

Btw, he also said one of my pistons might not be firing. (He removed all 6 spark plug tubes or whatever, and he said when he removes one of them, the engine stays the same, opposed to all the others when he plugs them individually, the engine loses a little power while sitting.)