*NOOBIES* The "I am new here,but have a question" thread..(post your questions here)
01-28-2010, 01:26 PM
#4881
I think I may have coppied the text from that page a while back, lemme check.
edit:
Originally Posted by CraigB's old page
The following wires connect to the same color wire at the middle harness of the three going to the back of the analog gauges (find the same color wire in the existing harness and splice into it) :
Black (x2) - Ground
Green/Orange - Speed Sensor
Green* - Speed Sensor
The following wires connect to the same color wire at the dimmer switch harness :
Red/Yellow - illumination (parking light) power
Black/Red - illumination ground
Light Green/Black*
Light Green/Red
*there are two light green/black wires in the main control unit harness. This one is the one that is next to the light green/red wire.
The following wires are power, either constant, ACC or ON. There are many places to find these power wires. I just tapped into the wires behind the fuse box, but you can get power from the radio, climate control, security system, door lock timer, etc. Just use a test light and make sure it's correct.
White/Blue - ACC or ON
Brown/White - +12V constant
Green* - ON
I just connected the White/Blue and Green together and connected them to a wire that was only powered when key is in the ACC or ON position.
*there are two solid green wires in the main control unit harness. This one is the one that is second from the end with a blank spot on one side, a black wire on the other, and another blank spot below it.
The following wires are not used for the heads-up display. I just covered the ends of these and taped them up with electrical tape.
Light Blue - to ECU
Light Green/Black* - to ECU
Black/Green - temp sensor
Light Green - fuel level sensor
*there are two light green/black wires in the main control unit harness. This one is the one that is on the end of the harness and above the black wire.
Black (x2) - Ground
Green/Orange - Speed Sensor
Green* - Speed Sensor
The following wires connect to the same color wire at the dimmer switch harness :
Red/Yellow - illumination (parking light) power
Black/Red - illumination ground
Light Green/Black*
Light Green/Red
*there are two light green/black wires in the main control unit harness. This one is the one that is next to the light green/red wire.
The following wires are power, either constant, ACC or ON. There are many places to find these power wires. I just tapped into the wires behind the fuse box, but you can get power from the radio, climate control, security system, door lock timer, etc. Just use a test light and make sure it's correct.
White/Blue - ACC or ON
Brown/White - +12V constant
Green* - ON
I just connected the White/Blue and Green together and connected them to a wire that was only powered when key is in the ACC or ON position.
*there are two solid green wires in the main control unit harness. This one is the one that is second from the end with a blank spot on one side, a black wire on the other, and another blank spot below it.
The following wires are not used for the heads-up display. I just covered the ends of these and taped them up with electrical tape.
Light Blue - to ECU
Light Green/Black* - to ECU
Black/Green - temp sensor
Light Green - fuel level sensor
*there are two light green/black wires in the main control unit harness. This one is the one that is on the end of the harness and above the black wire.
http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...tal-gauge.html
4th post in the thread.
Last edited by BenStoked; 01-28-2010 at 01:31 PM.
01-28-2010, 05:49 PM
#4882
ive got to deal with the Z31 turbo stuff now with the 3rd gen and have alot to build up on her so i wont be doing the cluster swap, i most likely do what i originally intended, using the 280z gauges i got. i also was too late to get the wiring from the Brougham i got the gauge cluster off and its crushed, and another junkyard Brougham most likely wont be around for a long time
02-01-2010, 03:45 PM
#4883
how hard is it to remove the airbag? when i can turn my 3rd gen into more of a track car i'm ditching the airbag. dont want to try to remove it and have it blow up in my face 
also are the airbag steering wheel hubs the same as the non-airbag hubs? the reason i ask is i have a Sparco Volanti wheel to use instead, and i have to order a aftermarket hub from Ebay so i need to make sure the hub will fit
also are the airbag steering wheel hubs the same as the non-airbag hubs? the reason i ask is i have a Sparco Volanti wheel to use instead, and i have to order a aftermarket hub from Ebay so i need to make sure the hub will fit
02-05-2010, 03:09 PM
#4884
quick question, trying to undo the bolts on my strut towers, but theyre stuck from age and the cold isnt helping either.
last night i could get one bolt off out of six, thats it. tomorrow i was going to either aim a heat lamp towards the tower, or i have one of those propane-powered torches. which would be better to heat up the bolts? i soaked some liquid wrench on the bolts last night if that matters
last night i could get one bolt off out of six, thats it. tomorrow i was going to either aim a heat lamp towards the tower, or i have one of those propane-powered torches. which would be better to heat up the bolts? i soaked some liquid wrench on the bolts last night if that matters
02-05-2010, 03:16 PM
#4885
quick question, trying to undo the bolts on my strut towers, but theyre stuck from age and the cold isnt helping either.
last night i could get one bolt off out of six, thats it. tomorrow i was going to either aim a heat lamp towards the tower, or i have one of those propane-powered torches. which would be better to heat up the bolts? i soaked some liquid wrench on the bolts last night if that matters
last night i could get one bolt off out of six, thats it. tomorrow i was going to either aim a heat lamp towards the tower, or i have one of those propane-powered torches. which would be better to heat up the bolts? i soaked some liquid wrench on the bolts last night if that matters
what kind of tool are you trying to get it off with? wrench? socket and breaker bar? impact?
02-05-2010, 03:36 PM
#4886
keep them. its supposed to be warm tomorrow so i may just try again without any heat first, i tried wrench first and nothing, then so i tried a socket and breaker bar and got the one off. but again it was like -20c last night, probably colder. tomorrow afternoon its supposed to be around 0c so i think that should help.
02-05-2010, 11:35 PM
#4887
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 5
not a chance. 45mm offset on anything wider than ~6.5" won't fit the rear of these cars (tire will rub the strut)... and even then your car would look TOTALLY rediculous cuz of how far in they'd sit. If you have some 7.5" +45mm wheels that you want to put on the car you'll need to go for a 15-20mm spacer to bring them out some.
so if i run a spacer they would sit flush and not rub? i realized that i come off as such a damn ricer on this forum lol. i bought my maxima for a daily driver not for performance. im just looking to make it look a litter better.
02-06-2010, 05:38 AM
#4888
be aware, after a point, you will need to get longer wheel studs (also remember the word "hubcentric" when ordering them)
02-07-2010, 10:04 PM
#4890
not a chance. 45mm offset on anything wider than ~6.5" won't fit the rear of these cars (tire will rub the strut)... and even then your car would look TOTALLY rediculous cuz of how far in they'd sit. If you have some 7.5" +45mm wheels that you want to put on the car you'll need to go for a 15-20mm spacer to bring them out some.
02-08-2010, 11:16 AM
#4891
Adding to the whole wheel subject, thinking of picking these up for my 89. he says they are universal 18" x8 think they will fit? http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/pts/1588235388.html thanks.
02-08-2010, 11:36 AM
#4892
Adding to the whole wheel subject, thinking of picking these up for my 89. he says they are universal 18" x8 think they will fit? http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/pts/1588235388.html thanks.
02-10-2010, 07:39 AM
#4893
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 2
I am new to this and i have a question about my 1990 maxima
I just created an account and i cant find where to post questions so ill post one here. I have a 1990 Nissan Maxima with rebuilt transmission. Last night i was driving and i stopped at the red light. As it turned green i started accelerating and i heard clunking/popping noise and i have no drive, or reverse now. I press gas pedal it sounds like transmission trying to go, but car aint moving, can someone help me with what may the issue is? Park still works, no drive,no reverse. Thank you. I greatly appreciate
02-10-2010, 11:41 AM
#4894
I just created an account and i cant find where to post questions so ill post one here. I have a 1990 Nissan Maxima with rebuilt transmission. Last night i was driving and i stopped at the red light. As it turned green i started accelerating and i heard clunking/popping noise and i have no drive, or reverse now. I press gas pedal it sounds like transmission trying to go, but car aint moving, can someone help me with what may the issue is? Park still works, no drive,no reverse. Thank you. I greatly appreciate
02-14-2010, 04:20 PM
#4895
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 17
I recently noticed how my 93 with a VE engine accelerates really badly at the low end, found out from this site that its a knock sensor problem. Error codes confirm this. I tried to disconnect the wire i thought was for it, slightly forward right next to the red ects connector, but it was so corroded the wire just broke off. now i don't even get error code 34 anymore, i get 55.
did i disconnect the right cable (and break it)?
why don't i get error 34 anymore?
how can I fix it?
i dont know if I still have the acceleration sluggishness at the low end, I havent driven it since then.
(EDIT) - it looks from the electrical diagrams in the fsm, that i broke the thermal transmitter, which i assume is for the temp guage. maybe i dont get error 34 anymore because the car was off and it didn't have enough time to detect a ks malfunction?
did i disconnect the right cable (and break it)?
why don't i get error 34 anymore?
how can I fix it?
i dont know if I still have the acceleration sluggishness at the low end, I havent driven it since then.
(EDIT) - it looks from the electrical diagrams in the fsm, that i broke the thermal transmitter, which i assume is for the temp guage. maybe i dont get error 34 anymore because the car was off and it didn't have enough time to detect a ks malfunction?
Last edited by codyl1992; 02-14-2010 at 05:16 PM.
02-15-2010, 08:21 AM
#4896
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 7
I just spent ten minutes searching the forums for my problem, because it's a pretty basic one, but it's hard to describe in two words or less.
The pivot between my windshield wiper motor and control arm (linkage arm?) snapped, the rubber gasket that contained it has completely eroded away, and the parts were just kind of resting on each other and still managing to work. That is, until I opened the hood with the wipers popped up away from the windshield. Pretty stupid, I know, but I had just Rain-Xed the windshield and didn't want the new wiper blades touching it, and didn't think about what would happen if I popped my hood.
Anyway, I know what the parts look like, just want to know where I can find them. It looks like an easy job to do, I just want to make sure I'm getting the right parts. Could anybody tell me what to look for?
Thank you
The pivot between my windshield wiper motor and control arm (linkage arm?) snapped, the rubber gasket that contained it has completely eroded away, and the parts were just kind of resting on each other and still managing to work. That is, until I opened the hood with the wipers popped up away from the windshield. Pretty stupid, I know, but I had just Rain-Xed the windshield and didn't want the new wiper blades touching it, and didn't think about what would happen if I popped my hood.
Anyway, I know what the parts look like, just want to know where I can find them. It looks like an easy job to do, I just want to make sure I'm getting the right parts. Could anybody tell me what to look for?
Thank you
02-15-2010, 08:11 PM
#4897
I just spent ten minutes searching the forums for my problem, because it's a pretty basic one, but it's hard to describe in two words or less.
The pivot between my windshield wiper motor and control arm (linkage arm?) snapped, the rubber gasket that contained it has completely eroded away, and the parts were just kind of resting on each other and still managing to work. That is, until I opened the hood with the wipers popped up away from the windshield. Pretty stupid, I know, but I had just Rain-Xed the windshield and didn't want the new wiper blades touching it, and didn't think about what would happen if I popped my hood.
Anyway, I know what the parts look like, just want to know where I can find them. It looks like an easy job to do, I just want to make sure I'm getting the right parts. Could anybody tell me what to look for?
Thank you
The pivot between my windshield wiper motor and control arm (linkage arm?) snapped, the rubber gasket that contained it has completely eroded away, and the parts were just kind of resting on each other and still managing to work. That is, until I opened the hood with the wipers popped up away from the windshield. Pretty stupid, I know, but I had just Rain-Xed the windshield and didn't want the new wiper blades touching it, and didn't think about what would happen if I popped my hood.
Anyway, I know what the parts look like, just want to know where I can find them. It looks like an easy job to do, I just want to make sure I'm getting the right parts. Could anybody tell me what to look for?
Thank you
Windshield Wiper
02-16-2010, 04:54 PM
#4898
Got a couple questions not worth making a new thread for
1) I did a self diagnostics for my tranny and got a code 10 "Line pressure solenoid valve circuit" now my question what does this part do, and is having it malfunctioning going to break my tranny?
2)How many self diagnostics are there for our cars? I know about ABS, ACC, Tranny, ECU. Any other?
1) I did a self diagnostics for my tranny and got a code 10 "Line pressure solenoid valve circuit" now my question what does this part do, and is having it malfunctioning going to break my tranny?
2)How many self diagnostics are there for our cars? I know about ABS, ACC, Tranny, ECU. Any other?
02-17-2010, 02:41 PM
#4899
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 7
got a question.
my car is definitely running on only 5 cyl right now. its just my rain transportation right now since i ride my cbr on good days but i need to get this fixed.
it has a pretty loud clicking noise that seems like its coming from the head. is that more likely a valve or injector on a maxima?
my car is definitely running on only 5 cyl right now. its just my rain transportation right now since i ride my cbr on good days but i need to get this fixed.
it has a pretty loud clicking noise that seems like its coming from the head. is that more likely a valve or injector on a maxima?
02-17-2010, 06:15 PM
#4900
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: denver, colorado
Posts: 1
hey sup guys newbie here ive had my maxima for 5 years now its a 89 maxima with 280k and counting and its been one of the most reliable car ive had. few Q,s is this car had the tranny rebuilt about 70k ago and eversince its not the same seems to heavy at acceleration from stop and it revs up almost to 3k as if i was stepping on. once it gets goin its fine highway fine has power and all but just on stops
02-17-2010, 06:20 PM
#4901
got a question.
my car is definitely running on only 5 cyl right now. its just my rain transportation right now since i ride my cbr on good days but i need to get this fixed.
it has a pretty loud clicking noise that seems like its coming from the head. is that more likely a valve or injector on a maxima?
my car is definitely running on only 5 cyl right now. its just my rain transportation right now since i ride my cbr on good days but i need to get this fixed.
it has a pretty loud clicking noise that seems like its coming from the head. is that more likely a valve or injector on a maxima?
02-17-2010, 07:04 PM
#4902
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 7
02-17-2010, 07:41 PM
#4903
anyways.. JY if you are in a pinch (grab a $7 Multimeter from harbor freight and verify that the resistance is between 10 and 14ohms), or brand-new $115/ea Bosch from an auto parts store. accept no substitutes (that means no Pythons either)
02-17-2010, 08:09 PM
#4904
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 7
NEVER EVER get reman injectors, cuz they are as bad, if not worse, than used injectors. they aren't rebuilt, they are just cleaned up and reboxed. which is great if they clogged, but these fail due to corrosion of the wire coil inside the injector, which rebuilders don't replace.
anyways.. JY if you are in a pinch (grab a $7 Multimeter from harbor freight and verify that the resistance is between 10 and 14ohms), or brand-new $115/ea Bosch from an auto parts store. accept no substitutes (that means no Pythons either)
anyways.. JY if you are in a pinch (grab a $7 Multimeter from harbor freight and verify that the resistance is between 10 and 14ohms), or brand-new $115/ea Bosch from an auto parts store. accept no substitutes (that means no Pythons either)
thanks
02-17-2010, 09:29 PM
#4905
yep dont go reman, Benstoked i think it was pointed out that to get a injector rebuilt you have to get into a part on the injector that essentially wrecks by getting into it or something like that so its no help really.
02-17-2010, 09:31 PM
#4906
hey sup guys newbie here ive had my maxima for 5 years now its a 89 maxima with 280k and counting and its been one of the most reliable car ive had. few Q,s is this car had the tranny rebuilt about 70k ago and eversince its not the same seems to heavy at acceleration from stop and it revs up almost to 3k as if i was stepping on. once it gets goin its fine highway fine has power and all but just on stops
02-19-2010, 09:12 AM
#4907
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Iowa
Posts: 6
i ve used this site a ton. love it. '90 vg has intermitant starting issue. Happens cold or after prolonged driving. turns over just fine will chug like it wants to fire over. pushing pedal to floor seems to help. did notice prior to shutting it off the rpms will be in the 1100-1400 range. also temp gauge on dash will drop to cold for a while then go back up. replaced dist. cap + rotor ngk platinum plugs and wires, battery, #5 injector (0 ohms) fuel filter, and sea foamed when i did the injector. Could it be Coil or coolant temp sensor?
02-19-2010, 09:38 AM
#4908
i ve used this site a ton. love it. '90 vg has intermitant starting issue. Happens cold or after prolonged driving. turns over just fine will chug like it wants to fire over. pushing pedal to floor seems to help. did notice prior to shutting it off the rpms will be in the 1100-1400 range. also temp gauge on dash will drop to cold for a while then go back up. replaced dist. cap + rotor ngk platinum plugs and wires, battery, #5 injector (0 ohms) fuel filter, and sea foamed when i did the injector. Could it be Coil or coolant temp sensor?
what do you mean about the rpms though? it goes to 1100-1400rpm idling before you shut the car off after a drive?
02-19-2010, 11:45 AM
#4909
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Iowa
Posts: 6
yeah in park it idles below 1000 but prior to this happening it seems like every time it will idle at higher rpms. so if it does this when i park i know it will have this issue when starting the next time, at least if i start it within the next couple hours or so.
02-19-2010, 01:41 PM
#4912
a plate of metal with the H-pattern of the shifter carved out into it that slots the shifter into when you select gears? good luck finding one that works. the shifting range of this shifter is awkwardly narrow meaning that most shift gates you find will not let you into the gears you actually want to be in.
02-19-2010, 01:47 PM
#4913
i think for black corner lights you need to get clear corners and smoke them but really that defeats the purpose of even having corner lights
02-20-2010, 03:06 PM
#4914
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Rhinelander WI
Posts: 217
I have a 1989 nissan maxima. It sat for 7 years, since ive had it i put on, new spark plugs, spark plug wires, K&N filter, Camshaft position sensor/Distributer, clutch, water pump, rear main seal, timing belt, tires, interior work, and exhaust. nothing major, just regular fix ups. When i got it after sitting, it appeared only the spark plug wires were chewed on by mice. Im having a very big problem with it tho. It starts fine, and the computer tells me code #55, meaning nothings wrong. When i drove it it missed and spit and had very little power, but sounded nice under 2000RPM. So i looked at it, I found out my injector was spraying in way to much fuel, i could smell it and that cylinder, plus 2 others were not firing. all 3 back cylinders run fine, but none of the front run at all. the far left front cylinder, i think #2, Was spraying way to much fuel, so i replaced the computer, later to find out it dident fix it, and plus my other 2 front cylinders, i think #s 4 and 6, werent getting enough fuel. i tested them, the far left front injector plug read like 13v, the other 2 read around 2.57v. all 3 back ones read between 11 and 12v. but the front 3 stay the same they dont change ever, to open and close. im getting spark, air, and fuel, i checked, throttle position sensor, grounds, emission control sensor, plugs, compression, intake, and they all turned out good. Ive seen on forums people have this same probllem, ive been trying to figure this out for a few months now, could you please help me or just tell me what i could do or need to do to fix this? Thank you very much, Robert Zeromski.
02-20-2010, 05:07 PM
#4915
I have a 1989 nissan maxima. It sat for 7 years, since ive had it i put on, new spark plugs, spark plug wires, K&N filter, Camshaft position sensor/Distributer, clutch, water pump, rear main seal, timing belt, tires, interior work, and exhaust. nothing major, just regular fix ups. When i got it after sitting, it appeared only the spark plug wires were chewed on by mice. Im having a very big problem with it tho. It starts fine, and the computer tells me code #55, meaning nothings wrong. When i drove it it missed and spit and had very little power, but sounded nice under 2000RPM. So i looked at it, I found out my injector was spraying in way to much fuel, i could smell it and that cylinder, plus 2 others were not firing. all 3 back cylinders run fine, but none of the front run at all. the far left front cylinder, i think #2, Was spraying way to much fuel, so i replaced the computer, later to find out it dident fix it, and plus my other 2 front cylinders, i think #s 4 and 6, werent getting enough fuel. i tested them, the far left front injector plug read like 13v, the other 2 read around 2.57v. all 3 back ones read between 11 and 12v. but the front 3 stay the same they dont change ever, to open and close. im getting spark, air, and fuel, i checked, throttle position sensor, grounds, emission control sensor, plugs, compression, intake, and they all turned out good. Ive seen on forums people have this same probllem, ive been trying to figure this out for a few months now, could you please help me or just tell me what i could do or need to do to fix this? Thank you very much, Robert Zeromski.
sounds like malfunctioning injectors, or other wires/hoses were chewed by the mice.
voltage to injectors doesn't really matter much (although the one @2v, see above), as the injector resistance does. to properly check injector harness signal, you need a noid light (can be borrowed from napa/autozone/oreily for free), and the injectors themselves need to be tested, resistance between the two pins on each injector should be 10-14 ohms. double check all hoses and wires, as well as the two tests, and get back to us.
also, have you changed the timing belt, yet? it may be a toot or two off, and cause similar issues.
02-21-2010, 12:15 AM
#4916
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Rhinelander WI
Posts: 217
Yupp i just put a timing belt on. Timing is right on. The hoses are all new. Not wires tho. The injectors are good, because the problems stay with the wires. if i move the wires around the problem moves to where ever the injector is. Tested the injectors also. If i leave the one thats at 12v pluged in all i can smell is gas and it drips out my exhaust, but if i unplug it then it runs fine, minus the 3 cylinders not firing.
02-21-2010, 09:08 AM
#4917
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 17
Hi all, i have a '96 maxima 3.0l, with 129K on it and was wondering if any of those fuel additives were worth adding, i wanna clean out my engine and fuel line i dont think its ever been done. i use BP gas 97 octane and mobil1 oil. any recommendations for keeping the car running good? thanks
02-21-2010, 09:17 AM
#4918
Hi all, i have a '96 maxima 3.0l, with 129K on it and was wondering if any of those fuel additives were worth adding, i wanna clean out my engine and fuel line i dont think its ever been done. i use BP gas 97 octane and mobil1 oil. any recommendations for keeping the car running good? thanks
02-21-2010, 11:36 AM
#4919
Hi all, i have a '96 maxima 3.0l, with 129K on it and was wondering if any of those fuel additives were worth adding, i wanna clean out my engine and fuel line i dont think its ever been done. i use BP gas 97 octane and mobil1 oil. any recommendations for keeping the car running good? thanks