*NOOBIES* The "I am new here,but have a question" thread..(post your questions here)
#5362
and a breaker bar.
air tools (impact, mostly) really help.
also, "diverse" may be an overstatement, 17mm, 14mm, 12mm and maybe 10mm. a few of each should get the job done (socket/wrench combo will do fine). there may be various 15 and 16mm along the way, but I don't think so.
#5363
big *** socket for the axle nut. 36mm.
and a breaker bar.
air tools (impact, mostly) really help.
also, "diverse" may be an overstatement, 17mm, 14mm, 12mm and maybe 10mm. a few of each should get the job done (socket/wrench combo will do fine). there may be various 15 and 16mm along the way, but I don't think so.
and a breaker bar.
air tools (impact, mostly) really help.
also, "diverse" may be an overstatement, 17mm, 14mm, 12mm and maybe 10mm. a few of each should get the job done (socket/wrench combo will do fine). there may be various 15 and 16mm along the way, but I don't think so.
#5364
Thanks man! That helps a lot! While I'm at it should I replace anything besides the clutch, TOB, rear main seal, pressure plate, and resurface the flywheel? Long as the axels don't have any rips or tears they should be fine right? Will I have to worry about the wheels becoming mis-aligned?
axle seals would be a good thing to change.. around $10 each. while they don't always need to be replaced, isn't it worth an extra $20 to not have to take it apart (and drain the tranny fluid)?
speaking of fluid... only use stuff that explicitly says GL-4
#5365
I have a 1994 Maxima and the car was running great until last week. I noticed that the temperature gauge was above H and there was steam coming out of the right side of the hood. When I popped open the hood, it seemed like the white antifreeze overflow? box was boiling. It was somewhat brownish. I came back to check on it an hour later and there was nothing in the white box, so I filled in some 50/50 antifreeze liquid to the max line. The car ran fine for about 15 mins, and then again started doing the same thing. What do yall think it is?
#5366
I have a 1994 Maxima and the car was running great until last week. I noticed that the temperature gauge was above H and there was steam coming out of the right side of the hood. When I popped open the hood, it seemed like the white antifreeze overflow? box was boiling. It was somewhat brownish. I came back to check on it an hour later and there was nothing in the white box, so I filled in some 50/50 antifreeze liquid to the max line. The car ran fine for about 15 mins, and then again started doing the same thing. What do yall think it is?
If they are turning, the next thing to check is the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. You haven't stated if you have a GXE or SE, but for a GXE (VG30E engine) it's located in the passenser side following the top radiator hose to the end. For the SE (VE30DE engine) it's located on the driver side following the bottom radiator hose.
Other causes would be a bad water pump and/or thermostat.
Last edited by jbbons25; 06-06-2010 at 10:41 PM.
#5367
First easy thing to check is to see if they fans work. When you turn on the AC the fans should start turning. If not, then check the fan wiring, relays, and the motors themselves.
If they are turning, the next thing to check is the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. You haven't stated if you have a GXE or SE, but for a GXE (VG30E engine) it's located in the passenser side following the top radiator hose to the end. For the SE (VE30DE engine) it's located on the driver side following the bottom radiator hose.
Other causes would be a bad water pump and/or thermostat.
If they are turning, the next thing to check is the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. You haven't stated if you have a GXE or SE, but for a GXE (VG30E engine) it's located in the passenser side following the top radiator hose to the end. For the SE (VE30DE engine) it's located on the driver side following the bottom radiator hose.
Other causes would be a bad water pump and/or thermostat.
#5369
hey all, quick question.
i want brighter headlights, so i bought these off ebay for $10 inc. shipping.
now, will these just plug right in and be brighter? is there a high/low beam? and. bulbs similar to these went for $50 at the local autozone, why do people sell them for so cheap if there worth more? (first ebay purchase) thanks everybody
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSA...item3cadca9061
i want brighter headlights, so i bought these off ebay for $10 inc. shipping.
now, will these just plug right in and be brighter? is there a high/low beam? and. bulbs similar to these went for $50 at the local autozone, why do people sell them for so cheap if there worth more? (first ebay purchase) thanks everybody
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSA...item3cadca9061
Last edited by MyMaxWillNeverDie; 06-07-2010 at 03:34 PM. Reason: forgot link to ebay, duh
#5370
hey all, quick question.
i want brighter headlights, so i bought these off ebay for $10 inc. shipping.
now, will these just plug right in and be brighter? is there a high/low beam? and. bulbs similar to these went for $50 at the local autozone, why do people sell them for so cheap if there worth more? (first ebay purchase) thanks everybody
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSA...item3cadca9061
i want brighter headlights, so i bought these off ebay for $10 inc. shipping.
now, will these just plug right in and be brighter? is there a high/low beam? and. bulbs similar to these went for $50 at the local autozone, why do people sell them for so cheap if there worth more? (first ebay purchase) thanks everybody
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSA...item3cadca9061
#5371
so where is a good place to find body mods, im thinking stuff like clear corner lights, and clear or all-smoke tail lights?
one more question, the clear strip of plastic on the trunk between the tail lights, does that light up or do anything?
thanks again everybody
#5372
ha. well i guess im only out the $10. "you get what you pay for" seems to be true i guess. thanks!
so where is a good place to find body mods, im thinking stuff like clear corner lights, and clear or all-smoke tail lights?
one more question, the clear strip of plastic on the trunk between the tail lights, does that light up or do anything?
thanks again everybody
so where is a good place to find body mods, im thinking stuff like clear corner lights, and clear or all-smoke tail lights?
one more question, the clear strip of plastic on the trunk between the tail lights, does that light up or do anything?
thanks again everybody
you can get a few body kits and cheap (think those bulbs) headlight housings on ebay.
the SE models had "smoked" tail lights from the factory.
that "light" in the back is purely cosmetic. again, a select few have modded the stock one, to display the "MAXIMA" as a brake light (looked cool, imo), but never installed it. search for posts by columbianmax (you may find it under blootoof, or something, as well).
all in all, you aren't driving a civic, which has millions of ebay parts to cheaply mod it. 95% of cosmetic stuff on our cars is 100% custom.
#5373
hey all, quick question.
i want brighter headlights, so i bought these off ebay for $10 inc. shipping.
now, will these just plug right in and be brighter? is there a high/low beam? and. bulbs similar to these went for $50 at the local autozone, why do people sell them for so cheap if there worth more? (first ebay purchase) thanks everybody
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSA...item3cadca9061
i want brighter headlights, so i bought these off ebay for $10 inc. shipping.
now, will these just plug right in and be brighter? is there a high/low beam? and. bulbs similar to these went for $50 at the local autozone, why do people sell them for so cheap if there worth more? (first ebay purchase) thanks everybody
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSA...item3cadca9061
i have always liked sylvania xtravisions on the 3rd gen.. and if you swap 2 pins around on the harness and do a little grinding on the bulb or headlight (one or the other, not both) you can upgrade to 9007's.
#5374
i have had those ebay bulbs for over a year now (i think even the same seller ) and theyre awesome, no complaints at all for 3rd gens, Ebay only has body parts, strut bars, rice bodykits, wings, etc. you can get clearcorners there though. the center piece of the lights does nothing, you can remove it and get custom metal made up to fill it (though some people here say that people ask them "what year Mitsubishi Lancer is that? ) or you can just remove the chrome strips, put Bondo in its place, and paint over the center piece, though with this way the rubber sealing strips are still visible in short, you can get jack **** for 3rd gens now. you cant even get a CF hood, 4th gens you still can but for some reason 3rd gen aftermarket is like the hooker in the dumpster aftermarket companies dont want to touch basically, you either have to go custom. there used to be group buys for CF parts and such but now i dont think any new 3rd gen group buys come up. though, i bet if someone did a CF hood group buy, i'll bet my left nut we could get at least 10 people in even for my Sparco seats, Sparco didnt have the fukcing seat brackets in stock and theyre not making them anymore, so i had to pay ALOT of money to get custom brackets and pieces made up to fit them. now, a custom CF hood and trunk will cost me my left nut /rant
#5375
i have had those ebay bulbs for over a year now (i think even the same seller ) and theyre awesome, no complaints at all for 3rd gens, Ebay only has body parts, strut bars, rice bodykits, wings, etc. you can get clearcorners there though. the center piece of the lights does nothing, you can remove it and get custom metal made up to fill it (though some people here say that people ask them "what year Mitsubishi Lancer is that? ) or you can just remove the chrome strips, put Bondo in its place, and paint over the center piece, though with this way the rubber sealing strips are still visible in short, you can get jack **** for 3rd gens now. you cant even get a CF hood, 4th gens you still can but for some reason 3rd gen aftermarket is like the hooker in the dumpster aftermarket companies dont want to touch basically, you either have to go custom. there used to be group buys for CF parts and such but now i dont think any new 3rd gen group buys come up. though, i bet if someone did a CF hood group buy, i'll bet my left nut we could get at least 10 people in even for my Sparco seats, Sparco didnt have the fukcing seat brackets in stock and theyre not making them anymore, so i had to pay ALOT of money to get custom brackets and pieces made up to fit them. now, a custom CF hood and trunk will cost me my left nut /rant
2) those bulbs are still junk.
3) I doubt you could get cheap-*** 3rd genners to buy cf hoods. 3 or 4, maybe, but most of us are too cheap to invest $800+ (min cost for that few) on a hood.
4) cf trunk? fuggedaboudit. that would be another grand that 99.99% of 3rd genners wouldn't spend.
#5376
1) quote button, fool! (gotta know who you are talking to, makes it look you are rambling.... again... which you did... )
2) those bulbs are still junk.
3) I doubt you could get cheap-*** 3rd genners to buy cf hoods. 3 or 4, maybe, but most of us are too cheap to invest $800+ (min cost for that few) on a hood.
4) cf trunk? fuggedaboudit. that would be another grand that 99.99% of 3rd genners wouldn't spend.
2) those bulbs are still junk.
3) I doubt you could get cheap-*** 3rd genners to buy cf hoods. 3 or 4, maybe, but most of us are too cheap to invest $800+ (min cost for that few) on a hood.
4) cf trunk? fuggedaboudit. that would be another grand that 99.99% of 3rd genners wouldn't spend.
2) trying to get angel eyes or whatever those scary looking things are, one thing at a time though. right now, its try to get lowered by early July
i still cant believe nobody has CF hoods anymore
#5377
I have a 91 and I am getting a pulsing in all lights (Dash, warning (like seat belt) courtesy, headlights). Also, idle drops at a stop, but no hesitation on acceleration or while cruising.
things I have already done to resolve (most suggestions from other threads on here):
I have replaced the alternator and battery recently, cleaned all grounds, cleaned all accessible terminals and applied fresh dialectric grease, confirmed alternator is grounded directly to chassis, had trusted mechanic check idle and timing settings, replaced motor and tranny mounts.
I am thinking my next step is to replace the primary battery and alternator wires, any one else have a suggestion that might be less dramatic?
things I have already done to resolve (most suggestions from other threads on here):
I have replaced the alternator and battery recently, cleaned all grounds, cleaned all accessible terminals and applied fresh dialectric grease, confirmed alternator is grounded directly to chassis, had trusted mechanic check idle and timing settings, replaced motor and tranny mounts.
I am thinking my next step is to replace the primary battery and alternator wires, any one else have a suggestion that might be less dramatic?
#5378
i am restoring my 1990 max and am stuck on a few things. everything is done so far as body work goes but a few things. i need to find some rockers for my car and cant find them anywhere. i really dont want to try to fabricate some rockers. and i also need a rear door, the only reason that hasnt been replaced is because the cheapest one i found was 150$ used with no glass and multiple dents. also since im already posting looking for help with these two things id figured id throw this in. want to put cold air intake on and run to where stock intake box is, i plan on ripping the box out putting in a cone filter and actually installing a functional hoodscoop. yes ik its ricer but thats what im doing i dont want to spend 200$ on pieces of intake to have a ****ty looking custom intake. anyone know where i can find a CAI kit for this car?? AEM K&N i want a full piping kit. or has anyone found one that fits with small modification?
#5379
i am restoring my 1990 max and am stuck on a few things. everything is done so far as body work goes but a few things. i need to find some rockers for my car and cant find them anywhere. i really dont want to try to fabricate some rockers. and i also need a rear door, the only reason that hasnt been replaced is because the cheapest one i found was 150$ used with no glass and multiple dents. also since im already posting looking for help with these two things id figured id throw this in. want to put cold air intake on and run to where stock intake box is, i plan on ripping the box out putting in a cone filter and actually installing a functional hoodscoop. yes ik its ricer but thats what im doing i dont want to spend 200$ on pieces of intake to have a ****ty looking custom intake. anyone know where i can find a CAI kit for this car?? AEM K&N i want a full piping kit. or has anyone found one that fits with small modification?
cai: There isn't one for our cars. search for "accord cai". I don't know exactly what model it should be from, but there are some good threads about installing one. only takes minor modification (less with a battery relocation, I think). people typically use ebay ones ($30-40), and put a real filter on it (I would recommend apexi cone filters, based on what I have read on other forums).
#5380
I have a 91 and I am getting a pulsing in all lights (Dash, warning (like seat belt) courtesy, headlights). Also, idle drops at a stop, but no hesitation on acceleration or while cruising.
things I have already done to resolve (most suggestions from other threads on here):
I have replaced the alternator and battery recently, cleaned all grounds, cleaned all accessible terminals and applied fresh dialectric grease, confirmed alternator is grounded directly to chassis, had trusted mechanic check idle and timing settings, replaced motor and tranny mounts.
I am thinking my next step is to replace the primary battery and alternator wires, any one else have a suggestion that might be less dramatic?
things I have already done to resolve (most suggestions from other threads on here):
I have replaced the alternator and battery recently, cleaned all grounds, cleaned all accessible terminals and applied fresh dialectric grease, confirmed alternator is grounded directly to chassis, had trusted mechanic check idle and timing settings, replaced motor and tranny mounts.
I am thinking my next step is to replace the primary battery and alternator wires, any one else have a suggestion that might be less dramatic?
#5381
yea the door is unfixable, its got a whole right threw it. thats why i just wanna replace it and replace the rockers then boom. paint the car the car is done. sept i havnt installed my front lowering springs yet they just came today. when its done ill post pics, im very proud of it so far and once its done it will be a really nice car. body/motors got 220k miles on it but im replacing the motor/tranny once one of the two go. picked up the car for 400$ so u can imagine what it looked like in the begining. but surprisingly the underbody and the frame in a whole is in GREAT condition. thats rare to see when you live in Upstate NY. BTW, any suggestions on motors/trannys? i was just gunna drop another 3.0 and stock tranny in it but ive been thinking might as well upgrade while im at it. what will bolt right in?
#5382
you can use a VG 5spd tranny, or you can use a VE 5spd with minor mods.
if you want a major upgrade, you can drop in a VG30ET from a Z31 300zx turbo, but otherwise theres nothing else that really nicely fits.
if you want a major upgrade, you can drop in a VG30ET from a Z31 300zx turbo, but otherwise theres nothing else that really nicely fits.
#5383
#5387
you can get them off of Ebay, but theres better ones around. custom is probably better, dont know more.
just to recap, for the 2" drop with my Ksport springs these are the struts i need right? have the springs already but need the struts, ordering them tomorrow
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissa...Q5fAccessories
just to recap, for the 2" drop with my Ksport springs these are the struts i need right? have the springs already but need the struts, ordering them tomorrow
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissa...Q5fAccessories
#5388
fourth gen accord cai.
search for mods that need doing to install.
just to recap, for the 2" drop with my Ksport springs these are the struts i need right? have the springs already but need the struts, ordering them tomorrow
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissa...Q5fAccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissa...Q5fAccessories
also,
#5389
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1990-...Q5fAccessories
fourth gen accord cai.
search for mods that need doing to install.
fourth gen accord cai.
search for mods that need doing to install.
#5391
hey ppl how u doin.. my 03 max (106 000 kms) rides real nice on smooth paved roads.. butt wen im on a bumpy road it feels really unstable and any little bump will make a loud clank and it just isnt nice..
any tips on wat i need to replace? and or fix to have a smoother more stable ride.
i reacently replaced my shocks&struts got Eibach springs and KYB struts.. this has helped but i kno there are many more things that can be done.
thanks
any tips on wat i need to replace? and or fix to have a smoother more stable ride.
i reacently replaced my shocks&struts got Eibach springs and KYB struts.. this has helped but i kno there are many more things that can be done.
thanks
#5393
hey ppl how u doin.. my 03 max (106 000 kms) rides real nice on smooth paved roads.. butt wen im on a bumpy road it feels really unstable and any little bump will make a loud clank and it just isnt nice..
any tips on wat i need to replace? and or fix to have a smoother more stable ride.
i reacently replaced my shocks&struts got Eibach springs and KYB struts.. this has helped but i kno there are many more things that can be done.
thanks
any tips on wat i need to replace? and or fix to have a smoother more stable ride.
i reacently replaced my shocks&struts got Eibach springs and KYB struts.. this has helped but i kno there are many more things that can be done.
thanks
more info can be found in the 5th gen section.
#5394
#5396
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/1994/el.pdf page EL-17
#5397
1990 maxima se.. What is the sensor under the hood, passenger side, by the wheel well/fender. cornered in there by the fender/suspension behind the power steering fluid. It's mounted by the fender. has a rubber piece on top, you can press down on it and it springs back up..
i can get pictures if necessary..
the rubber on mine is ripped, no part number on it, don't know what it is to replace it.
thanks
i can get pictures if necessary..
the rubber on mine is ripped, no part number on it, don't know what it is to replace it.
thanks
#5398
1990 maxima se.. What is the sensor under the hood, passenger side, by the wheel well/fender. cornered in there by the fender/suspension behind the power steering fluid. It's mounted by the fender. has a rubber piece on top, you can press down on it and it springs back up..
i can get pictures if necessary..
the rubber on mine is ripped, no part number on it, don't know what it is to replace it.
thanks
i can get pictures if necessary..
the rubber on mine is ripped, no part number on it, don't know what it is to replace it.
thanks
http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-...1648_1652.html
part letter "F"
I think mine is, too.
if it is, it hasn't been bothered before.
then again, I have never tried setting my alarm off by popping the hood.
#5399
moar of my n00bery afoot
so with my timing belt replacement, the place i always go to quoted me at $1150 for the timing belt and water pump. a member on here told me about a good mechanic in the city that works from his home in a private garage. basically you just bring him the parts and he does it, so with what im paying in parts and his labor its only $600 total. he said that he would check everything in the engine though and at my will replace anything that looks bad.
basically i asked about my suspension work as well, and this guy is mad serious about doing stuff right (he spent literally 20 minutes talking to me about properly dropping a car) and he said along with my Ksport springs and Tokico struts i should get a new swaybar with bushings, and endlinks. he said good aftermarket endlinks would be close to a grand, and i should get them to properly drop the car.
are the endlinks and new bushings really necessary? i mean, if im basically getting my engine rebuilt, i want to do everything right with the car but im guessing if he finds a few things wrong, the rebuild will set me back $1200ish. i would have to wait a month to get the money for the endlinks and swaybar/bushings, are they really needed?
so with my timing belt replacement, the place i always go to quoted me at $1150 for the timing belt and water pump. a member on here told me about a good mechanic in the city that works from his home in a private garage. basically you just bring him the parts and he does it, so with what im paying in parts and his labor its only $600 total. he said that he would check everything in the engine though and at my will replace anything that looks bad.
basically i asked about my suspension work as well, and this guy is mad serious about doing stuff right (he spent literally 20 minutes talking to me about properly dropping a car) and he said along with my Ksport springs and Tokico struts i should get a new swaybar with bushings, and endlinks. he said good aftermarket endlinks would be close to a grand, and i should get them to properly drop the car.
are the endlinks and new bushings really necessary? i mean, if im basically getting my engine rebuilt, i want to do everything right with the car but im guessing if he finds a few things wrong, the rebuild will set me back $1200ish. i would have to wait a month to get the money for the endlinks and swaybar/bushings, are they really needed?
#5400
moar of my n00bery afoot
so with my timing belt replacement, the place i always go to quoted me at $1150 for the timing belt and water pump. a member on here told me about a good mechanic in the city that works from his home in a private garage. basically you just bring him the parts and he does it, so with what im paying in parts and his labor its only $600 total. he said that he would check everything in the engine though and at my will replace anything that looks bad.
basically i asked about my suspension work as well, and this guy is mad serious about doing stuff right (he spent literally 20 minutes talking to me about properly dropping a car) and he said along with my Ksport springs and Tokico struts i should get a new swaybar with bushings, and endlinks. he said good aftermarket endlinks would be close to a grand, and i should get them to properly drop the car.
are the endlinks and new bushings really necessary? i mean, if im basically getting my engine rebuilt, i want to do everything right with the car but im guessing if he finds a few things wrong, the rebuild will set me back $1200ish. i would have to wait a month to get the money for the endlinks and swaybar/bushings, are they really needed?
so with my timing belt replacement, the place i always go to quoted me at $1150 for the timing belt and water pump. a member on here told me about a good mechanic in the city that works from his home in a private garage. basically you just bring him the parts and he does it, so with what im paying in parts and his labor its only $600 total. he said that he would check everything in the engine though and at my will replace anything that looks bad.
basically i asked about my suspension work as well, and this guy is mad serious about doing stuff right (he spent literally 20 minutes talking to me about properly dropping a car) and he said along with my Ksport springs and Tokico struts i should get a new swaybar with bushings, and endlinks. he said good aftermarket endlinks would be close to a grand, and i should get them to properly drop the car.
are the endlinks and new bushings really necessary? i mean, if im basically getting my engine rebuilt, i want to do everything right with the car but im guessing if he finds a few things wrong, the rebuild will set me back $1200ish. i would have to wait a month to get the money for the endlinks and swaybar/bushings, are they really needed?
sway bar and bushings? no, there are plenty of people who have stock sways and aren't having problems.
perhaps he is trying to telling you that yours is FUBAR, but you missed it. it is, after all a nearly 20 year old car.
SHOULD you? sure. it'll make your ride that much better.
I saw some sway bars in the classifieds a couple of days ago.