hmmm i might then. he said if i dont change the endlinks, bushings, etc. they'll crap out at 50,000km. i probably should then i guess

another question, so far i have the timing belt, water pump, thermostat, crank angle sensor, and timing belt tensioner. he said that the pulley itself on the tensioner is probably fine, and to just get the actual tensioner. Napa had a $650 complete assembly, and a $50 tensioner so i grabbed the $50 one. does that sound right?

and i know its hard to tell without seeing the engine, but once he lifts it out is there really alot that can be bad inside?

 

Anyone with any more input on a CAI for a 91 SE?

 

unless it's made of adamantium, no, it doesn't.
what the hell is the "complete assembly"?
timing tensioner parts: tensioner pulley, spring, stud, nut, a couple of washers. that is it. aside from the tensioner pulley (the part that spins), we are talking about $10 of parts.


unless it's a timing CHAIN kit, for a VE (and $650 still sounds high)

 

i dunno, the part i got is like a round bearing kind of thing. the complete assembly had alot more to it. f

another thing is IIRC the guy told me to get a thermometer, but Napa said theres no such thing and said he probably meant thermostat. does that sound right?

and one more question, Napa tried all of the warehouses in Canada and nobody has a crank angle sensor, theyre going to call the factory then call me tomorrow. is it a really important part?

 

The crank angle sensor is typically sold with a distributor wrapped around it..

 

yeah, the tensioner looks like that. you sure he said thermometer? if so, are you SURE you trust him?
as greeny said, and only slightly important. doesn't tell the ecu when to signal injectors, or nothing.

 

hmmm, good to know. if they cant find the crank angle sensor tomorrow i guess i have to skip it

i might have heard the guy wrong so its probably a thermostat. apparently all of the mad tyte JDM owners with Skylines and such go to him

 

my bad, i found where i wrote what i needed and its thermostat. im getting alzheimers 50 years too young

 

thanks. yea my alarm has actually gon off on me already for opening the hood so it can stay as it is

 

I have a 94 SE with a blown VE motor (snapped timing chain) and good 5-speed trans. I want to know if the VG motor will mount directly to the VE-style trans, which clutch part numbers to use, etc, necessary modifications, etc.

I know this information is somewhere in the forums but I can't find it...could somebody point me in the right direction?

 

yes, maxima clutch with VG flywheel, and the worlds worst wiring mess to go with the drop in power.

(it would be cheaper,easier, AND quicker to go with a VE, again)

 

I put a multimeter in series on the two supply connectors at the battery to check for any shorts/power drain... one in very negligible; however the other jumps from 0.100, 0.135, .045, .100, etc... just keeps jumping around.. I'm thinking short?? these two connectors supply the alternator?? and only the alternator?? because if that is true I'm thinking about just eliminating it completely and throwing on a four gauge from the batt to alt... I've already disconnected the alt and still get the same issue. what exactly are these wires supplying??
thanks


update... I just put in a new batt because the one the prev owner had was undersized.. just checked alt at pep boys, and it passed.. but i'm getting voltage around 11.90 across the battery, and it seems to be decreasing.. going now to get the batt checked and alt again at a discount or napa

 

this should be a sticky

 

 

Thanks Benstoked. I know the VG is a drop in power, but I've owned both and like the torque curve/simplicity of that engine better. Here's another one for you...what about the VG33 engine from the later pathfinders/quest vans...do you know if they will bolt to anything a VG30 will? I'm mostly wondering about flywheel/crankshaft compatability with the manual maxima trans, as I believe the block is the same.

 

Translation... I really want to be past this stupid 15 post rule and I'm gonna post anything to get there

 

everything I know about the vg33e is in this thread:
http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...ap-really.html

 

I am presuming you are checking amperage draw. if so, those are pretty negligible. I would suspect radio and clock memories, along with the normal this-that-and-the-other (alarm, keyless entry, etc.)
are you sure the battery is good?

also, have to ask (because I have done it), is your multimeter set for sure to "DC" vs "AC"?

 

yea set to dc. but the thing is i checked for draw on the two supply connectors. when I'm checking the whole system for drain I go from the negative post to ground cable.. this was only looking at drain through each connector individually.
What exactly do those two gray connectors supply? is it only the alt? it's only one of the two gray connectors that shows jumps in amperage; need to find out what's on those circuits.

batt is a day old, but i switched it out anyways for another new one just incase. getting the alt and batt tested again tomorrow at a different shop, then i'll check the wiring and grounds.


main question is, what exactly do these two gray connectors on pos side of battery supply? are they just for the alt?

thanks

 

yes, one goes to alternator, one goes to the car's electrical.
alternator wire is white, electrical system is white/red, going to the fuse box under the hood.

 

thanks. yea it's actually the white wire that's acting up. gets more than .035 amps and it's real erratic; jumps around. also tested resistance from batt positive terminal to alt pos, getting 25 ohms.

1) So is it possible to just completely eliminate that connector and run my own 4ga wire straight from batt to alt?

2) and does anyone have a complete wiring diagram of the charging system? I'm wondering exactly where the voltage regulator wires run too.

 

1) yes. just remember routing away from fans, exhhaust, etc. and leave slack for engine movement, it'll be good.
2) http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/1994/
EL.pdf (page 21) is the one you want for this, what I used to find the wires.

I also suggest downloading them all, if you can.

 

Napa never called me back so im guessing they couldnt find any in Canada, i called the guy and he said hes not surprised but like you said its not that important of a part

 

still chasing my electrical/charging system problem...
had the headlights/wipers on and noticed after a while I was losing power. throttle was responding slow, bad acceleration. I turn off lights/headlights and the power comes back instantly. But it must not be charging my batt fast enough, car died and I had to jump it; started right up. went down the street, had to use my headlights and it died again; started instantly with a jump again..
still getting low voltage across the batt, right around 12v while idling. But I've checked the Alt twice and it passed; battery is brand new.. No shorts draining while the engine is off.

am I looking for a short, a ground, or can my alternator just be fooling the test??

 

hi there where do i find these "se wheels"?



it may seem like a silly question but i am in australia and we don't have se models

 

those are definitely not 3rd gen wheels, kinda look like 5th gen wheels maybe. best way to find a set is to check local ads and find someone who got aftermarket rims and will sell their stocks cheap

 

those are from a 00-01 SE. not sure if the 00-03 generation existed in Australia or not.

 

if you aren't already a member, I suggest http://www.maximasdownunder.org/forums/
They may know what model you could find them on (if they were an option).

 

correction those are 02-03. like mine were.

 

thanks, capedcadaver benstoked and chrome91, i am a member on "maximas down under" and they say they are from a US car thats why i asked here, so i know what to ask for when i start looking

 

problem solved. I cleaned every ground/connection I could find in the engine bay. put a 4ga from batt to chassis; cleaned the engine to chassis to batt grounds; cleaned the alt ground and threw on my own 4ga to gnd the alt with the stock gnd; cleaned the gnd on driver side by the smaller fuse/relay box; cleaned ground on pass side front by antifreeze reserve tank; added a 4ga from batt pos to alt +.. also grabbed a tensioner bolt from junk yard because I overtightened the old one and snapped the bolt. belt nice and tight, runs perfect, no power loss, and i'm getting 13.5-14v across the batt

 

my Tokico struts should have been here this week, i just got a email from the Ebay seller saying that because the Tokicos were discontinued they dont have any in stock and can special order KYB struts for less and refund the difference, would KYB struts work with the 2" drop on Ksports?

 

tell them to get the tokicos, or full reimbursement, plus 10% for wrongful advertisement, or they get the negative feedback (that gets their panties in a wad).
then again, I am known as a douche, so

no, kyb won't last with a drop like that. not on a car that is driven more than onto a trailer.

 

they said they were JUST informed they were discontinued, even though its like 3 week old news plus the Ebay ad said 3 sets in stock

but even IF the KYB struts would work it would take them 2 weeks to get into the warehouse plus 2 weeks to ship out from there, so a month or more total. i found another seller with Tokicos but im going to ask if they actually have them in stock first lol

 

Ok, I started on my swap. I got the transmission out. I got the clutch, flywheel, and pressure plate out. But a mount broke on me and I can't continue until I get a new one. Below are pictures of said mount. Will an automatic max have one? Or is this a manual specific mount?

 

nope, kyb's will scream bloody murder before too long. and with the lack of ability to compensate the suspension geometry like you can on a z31, running a 2" drop is kinda dumb anyways...

 

When other people get in my car (93 Maxima), they say they can smell gasoline.

When I have the hood popped open and I turn on the engine, even slightly walking up to the engine and your huffing fumes.



Carbon Monoxide .. - Kills brain cells.
Gas Fumes.. - Kills brain cells.. destroys your smelling senses. ((Explains why I dont smell gas when I get in my car but other people do.))

Am I getting high from driving my car and not even knowing it.

Is it my death machine to turn me into a 101 year old man without even turning 101..?

Im thinking about selling my maxima with 240k miles for $1300.

I mean.., I think it does leak oil or gasoline. What can I really do about that..

 

typically, the fuel hoses, which are 17years old, are dry and brittle. your passengers are probably smelling that. not uncommon. you can leave it be (), or fix it.

 

Where are my fuel hoses? And also is my gas tank located right next to/part of the engine or in the back of the car?

(Because I got underneath the front of my car, and the bottom portion is wet with oil or fuel.. probably oil. Maybe the gas tank has a small hole in it..? Fuel hose has a hole in it..? )

It literally drips oil I believe in the front of the car. between the 2 front wheels.

 

if you can't figure out if it's oil or fuel or auto trans fluid or pwr steering fluid or coolant, etc etc, give it on to a mechanic, you may have more than one leak at the same time, and no leaks are good

especially fuel leaks