internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

you should have all pinkish top injectors.

comrade_Charlie

I have only worked on 300zx motors, on a 300zx the Pinkish or red injectors are N/A, Brown are the turbo injectors. You probably need another injector, read the little numbers on it, should be a bosch or something.

comrade_Charlie

So I have been thinking of turboing the max(hence the reason I want to 5spd other than the auto I think being unreliable), I know how and all that jazz, I have turbo'ed my friends 87 300zx, I have worked on turbo cars, blah blah blah.

What I am wondering is if the stock turbo manifold off of a 300zx with stock t3 will fit on the front side of the maxima motor with the radator in its current position(minus the rad fans, possibly convert to single fan and shroud). I think I am going to measure it, just wanted to see if any one has done it, I think only like 10 people have turbo 3rd gens?

I think this dude has his in stock location(stock location being for a Z)

I was searching around and kept on seeing custom manifolds putting the turbo over the tranny... I know Big_E-Dog has the stock z31 t3 on a stock manifold but that is a 2nd gen. Does any one know of a 3rd gen with a stock z31 manifold and t3 being use to turbo a maxima? im not interested in making a drag car or full out race car or whatever, just a sleeper to surpise a few mustangs, and to be a overall fun car.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

the stock Z31 turbo manifold puts the turbo where the front mount is.

comrade_Charlie

Ok thanks, that would be why Big_E-Dog made the custom mount.

big_willy

Can you swap a 90 maxima engine into a 93 body?

Are there any differences in the ecm or engine harness?

Is the igntion and the fuel injection system the same?

Are the engine mounts the same?

Can this be done easily?

Thanks in advance,

big_willy

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

yes
yes
no
maybe
depends on which motor

big_willy

cool
argh
argh
argh
gotta look again

Thanks for the fast reply!

cwm9

I solved my fuel injector problem! After gathering a bunch of info, I went to pull the fuel rails out and when I disconnected the electrical connectors I noticed the plug was badly corroded. I hit the plug with a sandblaster to clean up the corrosion, and presto, #3 started firing!

Then I thought, hey, that white rubber trim looks so ugly. Nothing ever worked to clean it. I wonder what would happen if I hit it with the sand blaster...

Crazy, but it worked. The rubber trim is now white again after being bright orange for the last 3 years. (We live in an area with a lot of rust in the soil.)

My cheap little Air Eraser mini-sandblaster is turning out to be a treat!

comrade_Charlie

Got a link to where you got it?

Nismozx720

Whats the best header/exhast for a 4th gen?

mikekantor

iTrader: (5)

Check out the 4th gen forum section: http://forums.maxima.org/forumdisplay.php?f=6

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

no clue, you are in the 3rd gen section

guitarpro_1st

hey i have search alot for these two answers but seem to not find a clear one for people that dont know too much about it.
question 1..i wanna put euro in my 92 maxima but have read that people dont like them as much unless they have projectors in them.....what are projectors and what do they do? and question 2 is what is a HID kit and what does that do a details explanation would be helpful thanks

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

clear lens lights DO suck without projectors. HID means high intensity discharge (aka super-effing bright) bulbs. essentially a fluorescent sort of bulb that fits in a headlight housing. Ever seen a new G37's headlights? The glass-fisheye thing on the right is a projector. Projectors use a different way of tuning the light for a near-perfect aim. standard euro lens projectors just shoot out a blob of light and cross your fingers that any of the light will go where you need it. And while it's doing so, you just successfully blinded EVERY single other driver on the road... and you just had your lowbeams on. Stock headlights have that gibberish lines and blocks and stuff etched into the glass, which helps to aim the light somewhat. Euros have NOTHING to aim the light. So it looks like a flashlight beam. Have you ever wished that you had a flashlight that was flatter and wider, and spread the intensity of the light better to where you needed it? Of course you did.

in this pic, euro on left, projector on right. On the euro, it makes a big blob. the most intense light is wasted by being about 1 foot in front of the car, so far down you can't even see it over the hood. Your fadeout light is all you see, and even then the round top of the pattern causes you to have no lateral lighting, and the tip of it still blinds oncoming traffic. With projectors, the cutoff is flat on the left, raised on the right (for street signs) and the MOSt intense part of the light is sent furthest away, for a smooth, even distribution of light, with the widest part at the cutoff, meaning the light has an awesome left-right spread as well. But you can aim the lights so that the cutoff is JUST below other drivers' eye level, so you don't blind anyone, and you have superior visibility. Which means you can even use HIDs, because almost NO light will go above the cutoff, and all the light is focused below it.


see also this: http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...06&postcount=1

guitarpro_1st

awesome that answers my question to the tee!!!!!!!!!!!!! one more quick question can you buy projectors on there own if the euro doesnt come with it and if so where? thanks again in advance

G3Karl

iTrader: (1)

where is the bleeder screw for the cooling system on the 3rd gen maxima? gxe to be specific. I drainied my cooling sytem (radiator & block, except heater core, should have done that too) but i cant find the bleeder screw adn my cooling fans come on after driving for awhile and the temp guage is barely at the half way mark.

I installed a new thermostat and replaced a radiator hose. I have no leaks but need to bleed the system. I jacked up the front of the car thursday and though I did a good job but dosent look that way.

Help!

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

on all GXEs, and SEs 89-91, meaning they have the VG30E engine, the bleeder is up-right of the word NISSAN on the big huge intake thing. It's a little bolt in the corner and says "do not open hot" or "ne pas ouvrir chaud" or something in japanese.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

you have to get projectors from some other car. Top choices are E60 BMW, Acura TSX, Lexus LS460, and Infiniti FX35. Mind you i'm not saying to go STEAL headlights off someone's car... you can get them places. Trust ebay if you want.. or go to something like hidplanet.com or something like that. Maximas never came with projectors until th 6th generation, that being 2004. I haven't heard anything good nor bad about them.. actually i haven't heard anything about 6th gen maxima projectors at all. But if you really want to preserve the maxima-ness of your car i suppose you COULD get some of those.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

it needs to be jacked up way high (3ft) for the bleeding to be good.
depending on your year, you may not have a bleeder screw.

guitarpro_1st

So will projectors fit in any euro light you buy......do i need a projector if i buy euro....or can i just buy the euro and plop a bulb in er

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

euro headlights are a direct replacement for the stock headlight in our cars. you can put lights in them, but they fail functionally, due to their absolute inability to tune the beam pattern. but yes it will work, just not very well. In order to put projectors in, you will need a spare set of headlights to test on first, you will have to do a lot of cutting, drilling, test-fitting, and lots of measurements to make sure it fits right and is pointing the right direction. Once you get it set in there perfectly, you'll have to wire it up (whether you use HIDs or plain halogens, you will still have to wire it by hand, most likely) and then you'll have to put your euro lenses onto your spare headlight housings if you DIDN't mess up, or use what you learned from your chopped-up spares to do it right the first time on your euro headlights... put it all together, aim against a wall, and enjoy. Granted i haven't done any of this myself.. YET, but i have seen enough pics and read enough to know pretty much what is involved, more or less.

NISMOman69

Hi...I'm new here as a member but have been checking and looking at the site for a good while and thought I would finally join. My name is Chris by the way, I have a 92 GXE that I have had since March of 2000. Currently the car has approx. 177,xxx miles. I did plugs and wires back in July. Also had the timing belt done in July. That's about all the maintenance that has been done to my car except for the normal fluid changes and checks. I hope that info helps w/ the question I have.
Before I get bashed and ragged on I DID use the search function 1st.
I have a question about some acceleration problems. When I start driving the car it takes off fine, when I get to about half throttle and around 2300 rpm the engine fluctuates from about 2000 rpm to 3300 rpm really quickly. It also does this when the car is in neutral and I rev it up.
Any help in diagnosing this problem would be awesome...Thanks in advance

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Did you replace the distributor cap/rotor button?

NISMOman69

No I did not. The only way to check them is to look for cracks or carbon build up correct? Is there anything else I should look for? Thanks for the quick response by the way...I appreciate it

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Chances are the cap/rotor are original, just replace them..Though it may not solve your problem..but you shouldn't go any further in diagnoses until all tune up issues are taken care of.

NISMOman69

Thanks alot...I know I've never changed them myself so I'll pick on up this week and change it...Is there anything else I should check or pick up at the parts store?

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

vacuum lines are usually cracking, and could use to be replaced.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

A new fuel filter, air filter, pcv valve, are a few more tune up items, but again i say, these items may not fix your issue.

NISMOman69

Thanks again for the quick replies. I did the pcv back in July as well forgot that one, and the air filter is good. Didn't really think about the fuel filter. As for the vaccum lines I checked alot of them and couldn't see any that were cracked but it was overcast so I'm gonna check on a sunny day.

djketamine

my 93 max was idling rough so i took it apart to the fuel rail and sure enough had 3 dead injectors. I replaced them.. and cleaned it all up and put the thing back together. I start the car, and it purrrrs like its never been so happy with me in years. and then i hear it. An inconsistant metal clanking sound from the motor. long story short during the removal of the fuel rail. I must have lost a washer down the Intake manifold, and to make it 100 times worse.... i started the car without knowing it. My thinking is that the washer found its way under a valve when it opened... and is now below my header chilling on top of the piston. So at this point i have totally dismantled the poor maxima again.... and desperatley trying to get the washer out. but no luck. Im up against a brick wall. Out of options. and the only thing i can think to do ... is remove a perfectly good head in hopes... that underneath i will find this bastard of a piece of metal. So the question is. Is there ANYthing i can do short a removing my head. and even if thats all ive got, what are the chances the washer is still resting on top of the piston. Some feedback, on what i might do here would be so greatly appreciated. thanks guys

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

are you sure its a washer?
only syggestion i could offer is to get a mechanics magnet(with a swivel head) and fish it out throught the spark plug hole.

I am concerned about internal engine damage. if the washer got vertical(ie | vs -) then it could have damaged the piston or valves. go get a compression tester on it after to see if that cylinder is approx. the same as the other 5.

mikekantor

iTrader: (5)

Do you remember if the noise was consistent or not? Was it steady at every revolution, or just occasional? The washers are rubber, so if you dropped one in there it should've just burnt up. I wonder if it could've been a coincidence with the repair, and perhaps the noise if from something else.

If you dropped something metal in there then you might still be OK, depending on how much you let it spin. Perhaps try getting a hold of an automotive endoscope and peak inside, then use a magnet to get out whatever is in there. They tend to be expensive, but you could return it after.

NISMOman69

Well...I went out and picked up a couple things for my CAI and also picked up the cap and rotor. I messed a lil bit w/ the CAI and then went to put the cap and rotor on.
Of course like everything else something has to happen. So 1 comment and a question...

#1 - The 1st screw in the cap came off fine. The other 2 snapped due to being old. I don't think the cap and rotor have ever been changed. So now I have to get a tap and dye set so I can get them out.

#2 - I took the screw out of the rotor but I can't get it off. Is there something I'm doing wrong? Is there a technique or something? It looks like there is a key way or something that puts it where it is supposed to be positioned. So I was afraid to twist and pull it off.

So anyways thanks in advance...

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

It's probably corroded under the cap seal, just stick a screwdriver under the edge and pry it off...

As for the broken screws..ugh, they are so small, i doubt you could ever removed them with a bolt extractor kit. Might be a good idea to just find a good used dizzy at your local junkyard.

NISMOman69

I was gonna try the screwdriver method but was afraid to break something. But I'll try that tomorrow.

Yeah I was pissed when those 2 screws broke...Hopefully the tap and die set will work...What do you mean by a good dizzy? A good distributor at the junkyard?

Thanks again for the quick response...

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

yes a good functioning distributor is what he is referring too.

comrade_Charlie

Yea so I have to jump my car now, Im pretty sure its the voltage regulator(which I know now is inside the alt. which I figured it was untill the person at autozone told me it wasnt, they need to hire better knowledged people).

Any way, I had it checked and they said it passed, I still think its bad, it was putting out 16volts? on the alternator. and it burned this one wire, I bridged it with the blue wire so I could roll my windows up with the car not started, I didnt feel like jumping the car off...

what do yall think, should I just get a new alternator, and Is it normal for the short wire to burn out like that when the voltage reg. goes out?... the short wire was smoking when I jumped my car off for the first time... the car will run but wont hold a charge on the battery.

Does any one know what this wire is supposed to do?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

16 volts is too high, your voltage regulators job is to keep the voltage at a fairly constant 13.8 volts

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

16 volts! replace the alty dude..

Here is how it should look..