chrome91

iTrader: (1)

need to swap the amp, Bose can only go with Bose. learned that the hard way when i tried puting in aftermarket speakers too and they didnt work, now ive just got a hole in the back where the speakers go

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

have you tried new alternator?

MikeCoolGuy17

Hey everyone i need some help i am new here. I just got a 94 maxima gle. i got it for 300 runs and drives good it's everything else that needs help maybe someone here can help me. My list of issues are these


1. the passenger side keypad doesnt work to get into the car only the 7/8 button lights up and beeps. i had to reset the code from under the dass so i have a new code.

2. my winodws wont stay up some one put door wedges in there to hold them up only the drivers side window works.


3. the bose audio doesnt even turn on. The clock does not work. the auto climate doesn't light up it does come on.

4. the shifter doesn't engage in drive i have to put it into 2nd and then to d for that to work.


5. only some of the rear defroster lines work.


6. missing some wood grain stuff crack in dash board a little bit of rust bubbles.




I cant seem to dind any parts on ebay or anywhere Any help anything ould help i sure hope i didnt buy a lemon for 300 it runs good and shifts good needs exhaust thu is it worth putting the money into it Please help me out i'm new thank you.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

1st, 3rd gens are only gxe or SE, no gle (you, sir have a gxe, based on acc (auto climate control) and keypads.

1) probably needs replaced. things do wear out, or get broken
2) windows that fall need new regulators.
3) 14+ year old electronics fail, simple fact of life. you can try to fix them, it's relatively easy, you just need to know where. the site that had all the good stuff just died, recently, ill see if I can find a good source for fixing the acc/clock.
Ditch the bose.
4) shifter bushing need replaced
5) typical. some of mine don't work, either. there was recently a thread about fixing them, iirc.
6) wood grain? never seen it before, or never paid attention to stock. only wood grain I know of is in aftermarket form, as stickers.

IF it runs, and drives, it is not a lemon.

are you sure it is a 3rd gen, 1994? if it is a 95, gle and wood grain would make more sense. aside from that, everything else should hold true. enjoy your "new" car.

sb_max510

i got active speakers in mine i looked in the trunk next to my left speaker i saw a little silver thing that said clarion could this be the am do i even need it can i rip it out and run my rear speaker or do i need to re wire?

Mattx4

I used a brand new injector. The problem is not the injector. The problem is that the ECU is not sending a signal to the injector telling it to fire.

Dinglekidd

alternator is good. car cranks on but wont turn on. i can smell fuel whenever i try to turn it on.......

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

that i dont know, i'm actually wondering too. only audio stuff i know how to do is wire/install headunits and subwoofers. i'm stick of the holes in the back.

jbbons25

iTrader: (2)

I didn't use the stock amp on mine cause it was no longer working. If you do plan to use the speakers without the stock amplifier you can jump the following wires at the end of the connector:

Left Speaker:

Yellow/Blue to Black-and-Yellow/Light Green

Right Speaker:

Green/Orange to Black-and-Pink/Yellow

I don't remember which one is + or - so you may need to mix and match to get it right.

Mattx4

Get rid of the bose system entirely. An install kit is available at radio shack or wal mart to convert to an aftermarket deck. as for the speakers, just replace them with any available aftermarket speakers. You can reuse the original wiring, just cut off the connector for the bose speakers and only hook up the two thin wires to the new speakers. the thick black wire is for the bose power boosters which you do not want to hook up to anything but bose speakers. I hooked up an entire aftermarket system in a matter of two hours so it's fairly simple. fyi, if you want to use your am/fm radio you'll need a conversion connector because the bose system has a unique plug for the antenna, again, this should be available at radio shack.

also check all of your fuses just in case. try pushing in on the clock face to kind of wiggle the connection in the back. this work on my clock. 3rd and 4th generation maxima's are great cars so a little money and work won't hurt. good luck

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

shifter bushings. $4/ea at dealer. 20 minute install for both. everyone (including some of the now-smartest members on here, back when they were noobs) tend to argue endlessly about this, convinced that the problem is NOT the shifter bushings and that it's something else.... but it's so cheap and so easy, even if it weren't the problem (which it is) it's no loss to do it.

Mattx4

My car has a similar problem. how do you access the bushings?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

one of them is semi out in the open, under the brake booster area on the backside of the tranny. the other is under the catalytic converter heatshield (2 10mm bolts and you can just sort of pull it down to access the one on the shifter). just held on by cotter pins.

i did this on my car with some drive-up ramps in about 5 min before going to work one morning. it was very nice to have reliable gear selection again.

MikeCoolGuy17

Thanks for the help everyone I will try to do some of this stuff. Any more help would be great thank you!!

MikeCoolGuy17

If i put a new keypad on the pass door can i put the same code from the old one that is used on the drivers side can someone explain more? Thanks

sb_max510

Thanks ill give it a try later today

alex.wlkr

Hey just thinking outside the box a little here.... I have a 92 with a VE. I believe you have the VG? Among the differences are I have no distibutor instead a cam (or crank) angle sensor for both feul and ignition timing... My point is that I can test individual injectors by pulling sensor off and manually rotating with key on. There is a section of the sensor for each cylinder that both triggers and sets base timing. Anyway it would seem to me that while it could be your ecu not sending a signal to the injector, it might be more likely the pickup for that injector.
I have not researched this, it's possible that the switching from one inj. to the next could be accomplished in the ecu... the CAS would still require the six pickups...

94se5spd

iTrader: (2)

Does antbody know if there's a thread about removing the MAF screens? Seems like I've seen one before but I can't find it in the search function.

jbbons25

iTrader: (2)

The code is stored on the anti-theft module located inside the right side of the dash. The code won't change when you replace the keypad on either side.

mrwhitney

One day after weeks of whining, my Power Steering stopped. So I replaced the pump (put in power steering fluid) instead of dextron III. (now I know its a mistake). Then no luck, and I replaced the steering rack. Then I put in a new pump, and again used power steering fluid. Well I'm now about to put in my 3rd power steering pump. I WILL use Dextron ATF III. However I have a few questions:

1) The rack should still be fine, correct? I couldn't have ruined that with the wrong fluid?

2) I have a 1991 Nissan Maxima and was told that I use the PS Pump w/o Electronic Control because I don't have a digital dashboard? My VIN brings up both w/ and w/o EC. I was wondering if there was any sure fire way to tell?

3) Was the PS fluid really killing my pumps? (Pumps since the original crapped out)

Thanks in advance

Phatmatt

iTrader: (9)

I'm not home right now but I think I might have a problem with my motor and would like to get it fixed before I have to go back home.

I haven't started the car since saturday, and yesterday I decided to replace my splash guard that was pretty much non-existent. I moved the car to a more solid ground to jack it up and remove the tire so I would have more room.

While moving it, about 5 meters, the rpm's were jumping up and down not by much but you could feel, went up and down no more than 100rpm I'd say. to put it in words, the engine was 'jumping' like a misfire. Idle is completely fine and doesn't jump.

What could it be?
I also notice some fuel leaking(minimal) from the fuel filter from the top which I have planned to change in the near future, could it be related? like the filter is somewhat clogged and while idle, the engine it getting enough fuel but not at higher rpms?

Also when idle, and pressing the gas it will do the same thing.

alex.wlkr

The forum has been really slow the last 7-10 days, I have not been experiencing this on any other site... I see there was a thread, but is locked, last post was 11-15-09. Is anyone else experiencing this?

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

yes, it's "normal..."
(note: not exactly the place to talk about it, but being in "newbie" status, I will forgive... for now...












lol)

Mattx4

I too have a CAS built inside the distributor. I have tested it and it's components using a volt meter. everything seemed normal. I might try putting a new distributor in it to see if it helps just to be safe.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

on the VG, the sensor is inside the disty and uses a metal plate swith 360 tickmark holes and a few other holes, and a photoelectric eye that can measure the rotation of the cam to 1*. it determines when to fire the injectors inside the ECU based on knowing what angle the cam is at.

Mattx4

Ok. thanks for clearing that up. I heard that there is no way of replacing the CAS on a VG, you have to get a whole new distributor. is this true?

Alex.Fawcett

Hey guys, got a question I hope you can answer.

I'm trying to help my sister out with her 1991 Maxima.

The CEL is blinking 1 long, 2 long, 3 short, 4 short, 5 short, as if its in the selector mode, right from engine start (I.E. before playing with the ECU screw). I have attempted to retrieve any codes using the proper instructions, however I just can't get it to stop blinking in the same pattern. Am I maybe doing something wrong, or is the ECU on it's way out?

Any help is appreciated!

Mattx4

Turn the screw on the ECU all the way clockwise and wait for the red and green lights to flash 4 times, then turn the screw all the way counter clockwise. This should reset any stored codes. Otherwise, try disconnecting the negative battery cable for a few minutes. If the CEL still flashes after reseting the codes then you should probably do a PM tune up. IDK for sure what the CEL means, but usually it comes on every so many miles to remind you to replace something or do a tune up.

Are you getting any codes from the ECU in mode 3? You should at least get a code 55 which means everything is normal as far as sensors go.

Alex.Fawcett

If I could get it into mode 3 or engage mode 4 I might not be having these problems . My problem is no matter what I do with the screw it still blinks in the same pattern (as if its trying to select the mode).

I tried disconnecting the battery, and it still does the same thing... Is this the ECU gone bad?

Mattx4

The check engine light is not telling you what mode you're in. There are two lights, one red and one green, on the ECU itself. These lights should be right next the the screw that you have been turning on the ECU and they should be covered by a clear film of plastic. You have to get your head pretty far in the passenger side toe kick of the car to be able to see these lights. Once you turn the screw on the ECU all the way clockwise, you have activated the mode selection setting. The two lights on the ECU will begin blinking in unison. 1x, then, 2x, then 3x, then 4x, and finally 5x. Wait until they flash 3x together then immediately turn the screw all the way back counter clockwise. This will activate the self diagnostics mode. Now look at the red and green lights again. They should begin flashing again only this time the red light will flash first by itself, then the green light will flash by itself. This will give you one or more "codes". How ever many times the red light flashes is the first number in the code and how ever many times the green light flashes is the second number in the code. (example- if the red light flashes 2x then the green light flashes 3x, that is a code 23). If there is more than one code to be retrieved, just wait until the first sequence of red and green flashing is over and the lights will begin blinking again, first red then green. If they flash in a different sequence than the first time, then this would be your second code and so on and so forth. If the red light flashes 5x then the green light flashes 5x you have a code 55 which means everything is normal as far as the ECU is concerned. If you come up with anything other than a code 55, post the code or codes on this feed and someone will tell you what the codes mean, or just buy a haynes manual. Next, turn the screw all the way back clockwise and wait for the red and green lights to flash 4x together, then immediately turn the screw all the way back counter clock wise. This will erase any stored codes and eliminate your CEL problem unless ther is actually something wrong with the car. Hope this wasn't too confusing. It's really quite simple actually. good luck

BTW- Is there any thing wrong with the way the car runs???

Alex.Fawcett

I get that, but the light wont stop blinking in the same pattern, I turn the car on, it blinks in that pattern, I turn the screw either way, it blinks in that pattern, it just wont stop- one long, two long, three short, four short, five short... The dashboard check engine light, the red light on the ecu and the green light on the ecu are all blinking in the same pattern (at the same time).

The heater core exploded last week and I believe coolant may have got on the ECU, which is why I'm pretty sure its fried.

The car seems to run fine for the most part, some hesitation at times though...

wcpierson

Ive been having some trouble with hesitation and Ive gone over all the vacuum lines and some of the sensors on the engine but I cant seem to get the connector off the back of the coolent temp sensor. Am i doing something wrong? Am i retarded or is there a trick to this thing? Im scared Im going to snap it.

Dinglekidd

hey guys. i replaced the fuel pump and my car still doesnt start. when ever i try to cut it on i can smell fuel tough. could it be my injectors

Mattx4

well if the ECU was fried the car probably would not run at all, let alone fine. It is possible that the coolant shorted out a wire somewhere. all i can say is go through the wiring harness thoroughly and look for obvious shortage. the lights still flash the same with the screw turned all the way clockwise? I'm fresh out of ideas but maybe someone else will figure it out. Just keep your questions posted and someone will get back to you. This is a great forum and there are a few really good mechanics who frequently come check in and answer questions. good luck

sb_max510

i have a quick question i don't know much bout motor ol so im wondering if i put valvoline max life 10w-30 motor oil will my car be ok,i have 141k miles .or should i use a different weight?

Alex.Fawcett

Got it sorted... Looks like some coolant got into the switch (screw) on the side of the ECU, and was shorting it out somehow. Dried it out thoroughly and it works again! Even pulled the code, all is good.

Thanks for the help!

jbbons25

iTrader: (2)

If there was coolant around there, then there might be a leak somewhere in the heater core. Might wanna check that out before you use the heater again.

PMAX08

hey guys, question for you vets, (92 se) i was driving my car to work, after i parked and went inside and i found out i had to move my car, so i go back out and start it and my cluster doesnt work, only my fuel gauge does, it lights up but no gauges, my battery light got stuck on and my ebrake light as well but dimmly, i tested my battery and alternator so these lights are from the broken cluster, thing is my rear defrost doesnt work now and neither does my power moon roof, i checked my fuses, one was blown, replaced it but it wasnt for these things, i was thinking of tearing out the cluster, seeing if there is some damage or something, is it a relay maybe? if so which? any help is always appreciated !!

twtraudio

Noob here ! Hey guys just picked up a 1993 Maxima GXE it has 105,000 miles on it and got it for $1200 good condition too. I have a question for ya. Now the person i bought it from couldnt speak english *his brother had to be there to translate) and im concerned about the timing belt. Now i dont know if it was replaced. I mean u think if it didnt get replaced would it of lasted till 100,000 miles ? Trying to push it to 120,000 to save up some dough for the install of it. I saw the how to and dont feel like messing with it. Now the other belts look worn (cracking and wat not) so idk if that may tell ya something. Just wanna get some input. Thanks and Hello !

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

well there was a 100k belt for the VG engine... but only the 94 GXE and SOME (less than half of) 93 GXE's got it. so if you have one of those it could possibly be the original belt. And keep in mind that even a 60k belt can last much longer than 60k miles (i mean it's not like there's a timer that just blows the belt off as soon as your odometer rolls 60k ) especially if your car has alot of highway miles (cruising in OD = less revs per mile) vs alot of city driving (lower gears and idling = more revs per mile). the 60k estimate is supposed to hold true even if you use the car for mail delivery or something (lots of idling and 1st/2nd gear). However since you don't know the history of the car it's best to assume the worst and replace it now unless you want to get to 120k miles only to find this:

http://forums.maxima.org/7192479-post3.html <--(click)