CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

all you will likely need is the motor for the odometer. you can chop and swap parts inside the cluster as needed. I replaced my odometer motor after it stopped functioning properly. No need to hunt for a whole cluster when just the motor will do.

NissanZealot

OK thanks a lot, that helps only... just how do i fulfill my warranty on an 18 year old car? Im honestly clueless as to how I would go about that

Obsession_92-94

Speaking of replacing parts, does anyone know how to reinstall the retractable antenna? I got sick of it not going down all the way as the previous owner whacked it pretty good and it has not been right since. So last night I unscrewed the top ring from the motor (which is still mounted to the car) and when I turned on the radio, the motor just spit out the cable. Any ideas on how to reinstall it without having to remove the motor and all that? I was thinking that I could get an new one and shove the cable down into the shaft and let the motor rewind it itself, but I am skeptical...

dougb110

I noticed the Pull-A-Part had a 1992 Maxima added to thier inventory 2 days ago, so I went by yesterday afternoon. I was really looking for uncorroded injector connectors, but the ones on this car were worse than the ones I have. But I did go ahead and get a signal/light switch for about $4. I took the plastic protector off of the contacts and they look brand now, no film or corrosion at all.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

go to the dealer and tell them you want the seatbelt fixed under warranty. if they look at you crazy, tell them that nissan had a lifetime warranty on seatbelts back then. They LEGALLY have to honor it.
if they give you crap call nissan corporate and report them. if you need it there is a copy of it on here somewhere.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

you are supposed to be able to do it like that, but I had to remove mine to fix them. (2 other cars)

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

http://www.4dsc.com/articles/exterio..._antenna.shtml
hopefully you can get it fixed.(i, and other members have had their antennas not working, and have had little problem with it. I just topped my broken antenna, which is broken at the base, with one of those foam ball head things from jack-in-the-box)

KillaKarebear

anyone know where i can get a-pillar pods?

Funambulus

another question for the gurus out there...i drive a 1993 gxe and the auto trans is going out...is it possible to slip the 5sp. in or would i have to do the a whole engine/tranny swap??

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

look a couple of posts down and see caped's thread on his swap

dougb110

OK, I got the car back together this weekend after replacing the 2 bad injectors and splicing new injector connectors for all of the injectors. I also replaced most of the vacuum, emission, and fuel hoses I could get to. The car fired right up and ran a liitle rough for about 10 seconds and then smoothed out. The miss seems to be gone. But as it sat there and warmed up, steam started coming up from the around the front valve cover area. I couldn't hear any leaking, or hissing. I suspect coolant is dropping onto the exhaust somewhere, but can't really see anything obvious. As for anything that I did while repalcing the injectors that would have involved the coolant system, there were the big hoses that go from the front and back valve covers (If i remember correctly, even though this seems odd) to the air intake elbow (front) and into the upper plenum (back) and a handful of coolant came from the front one when I first took it loose the other day, but it's not leaking now. Is there coolant flow through some part of the lower and/or upper intakes? Maybe I pinched a gasket or something. It will be a couple of days before I'll have time to get back into it. Any advice would be appreciated.

Edited: I must be remembering wrong, surely coolant isn't flowing through the valve covers, it must have been some other hoses I took loose that had coolant in them. I do recall the Haynes manual said to drain the collant system to replace injectors, but it doesn't explain why.

DBooker_93GXE

Okay, so I'm sure that this question's had to have been asked a ton of times on here, but I'm going to go ahead and ask again anyway, just to cover all bases. I looked up what kind of speakers can fit in the max and crutchfield.com said that 6x9's should fit in the rear shelf. I tried these and I couldn't get them to fit, luckily for me I had some 6.5's just sitting around the house (the 6.5s and 6x9s are both brand new). And so I've had these 6.5's in there since, but now a year later I busted one of them (Alpine head unit is awesome after you tweak it right). So to end my long story, how do I fit the 6x9's in place of the 6.5's. It's kind of embarrassing to take a girl home when you're speakers make a wierd noise (but I played it off lol)...all help is appreciated!!

DBooker_93GXE

**correction** crutchfield didn't tell me that, but I thought I had seen it somewhere before...so is it possible to squeeze a set of 6x9s in the rear shelf sorry about my mistake from the first post

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

yes 6x9s fit fine, at least into the bose brackets.
to do a good job, i had to pull the carpet off the top of the pannel, to get access to the screws for the brackets.
the speakers were a bit difficult to fit onto the brackets, but they fit. just make sure to fasten them adequately, the first time i did it, i didn't remove the brackets, and the nuts vibrated off, cause i didnt get a good grip on them....

DBooker_93GXE

I dont have Bose...my car came with the 'Active Speaker' or w/e they're called (stock clarion speakers). When I tried to install my 6x9's they didn't really fit into the speaker housing, but I'll give it a try again tomorrow or this weekend (depending on homework load) I guess lol

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

on that system stock is 6.5" rear and 4x6 front

ProphetVG30E

on mine, 6.5's in tha front, 6x9's in tha back.

DBooker_93GXE

Is that with bose or with the regular system?? And if so, how'd you set your 6x9's up to fit in the rear shelf??

ProphetVG30E

Regular.

just gotta kno what youre doing. and plus, it came w/ 6x9's in the back when i bought the maxima in november. i've done it on my 93 sentra se-r, and it's dumb easy to do.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

you may consider custom mdf mounts. not too hard to make.
also make some for the front, if you don't have 6.5"s up there, now.

DBooker_93GXE

that sounds cool, but I dont think I really have access to a shop like that to make some mounts, I might ride to a junkyard and see if they (or I) can pull the mounts out of a Bose maxima there...and just to verify my understanding, the mounts are the only way to go, if you dont wanna drill through your car right? lol.....all help is and has been appreciated

Liu Kang

OK, I need some help please, my mothers 93 maxima is shaking when in gear, not sure what the problem is, it is the engine that is shaking when in gear but not when it is in neutral, I didn't get a chance to look at it yet but is there anything that usually goes wrong? anything that I should look for? I had both the engine and tranny replaced before, along with the alternator, did a tuneup, brakes and even that leak by the gastank so what's wrong now, someone please help...

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

mdf is "medium density fiberboard". its available at any place that sells lumber. you can also use plywood. as for tools, circular saw, a drill, and a jig saw... I mainly offer this for others, now that you have an alternate course of action.

yes, the mounts are nesecary if you want to put the speakers in without drilling into the car. but with a 15 year old car, would a couple of unseen holes make a big difference? I personally would go with the mounts, but if time/money are constraints, you could just drill out holes to mount the speakers.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

does it shake in gear whether you are moving or not? or just moving? or just sitting still? look at your mounts to see if they are torn or deteriorated. I had a preeettttty bad one that became far more apparent when i swapped auto to manual. take a look:


broken poly filled mount on left. normal OEM mount on right

Liu Kang

it shakes a lot more when it is under 35mph at higher speeds it not as bad

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

does it shake at all when you are sitting still? also where do you feel the vibrations the most? or do you hear them but not feel them so much?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

sounds like you need injectors

Liu Kang

how can it be injectors if it still runs fine at idel in nuetral but as soon as you put it in gear, it starts to shake even if sitting still? I also added injector cleaner about 4 months ago...

Wiking

All depends what 'a tuneup' means. If its wash and wax, then that tuneup does not hlp.

If the max has distributor: cap wires rotor - then check the link below

TooEasy

iTrader: (4)

i apologize for asking a question although im over 15 posts, but i thought it would be lame to make a thread for this. does anyone know where i can get the iacv hose that connects to the s pipe on my intake? its cracked right where it meets the iacv and needs replacement, but i can't find one online at any of the normal places, is it called something different than iacv air hose or idle control hose?

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

why bother getting a special hose for it? it would usually be cheaper to get a length of hose with the same inside diameter. iirc, about $3/ft.

TooEasy

iTrader: (4)

i thought that also, but since it wouldnt have the bends already in the tubing, would it crimp off air or no?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

because the motor is fairly well balanced. I had the same issues with one of mine.
my money is on it being 1 bad injector.

Liu Kang

so how do I check to see if this is the injector and how do I change it? any how to somewhere?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

the bread-and-butter pull-a-spark-plug-wire-one-by-one trick. whichever cylinder, when its wire is unplugged, causes NO change in engine condition, indicates the bad injector. tho it actually identified a bad CYLINDER, wherein you have to discern if it's the injector, or something else causing the single-cylinder-messup. and remember to pull the ebrake real good and put it into gear while doing this (basically make sure it's vibrating from the get-go)

coolsun

iTrader: (10)

how to change the motor mounts?
do need to remove the motor?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

hellz no! just get a block of wood and jack up the oilpan near where you are removing the mount. avoid hydraulic jacks if you can, as they aren't made to HOLD a load, just lift it. and you can't use jackstands because you will have to finely adjust the height of the jack until the bolt slides out freely. and just do one mount at a time, less hassle. once the new front one is in, go to the back. or maybe start out back to get the hard(ish) part out of the way first. for the front once unbolted, pull the base forward while tipping the top back, and slide it out flat like that. round part installs to the front and the flared part to the back. dunno about the rear, since i haven't done it yet. all 17mm nuts and bolts.

dood you have more than 15 posts.. lawls.

coolsun

iTrader: (10)

ok but what kind of bushing should i use for it, poly? how long will those last

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

scroll up to post 945 and you'll see what my poly mount looked like from sept 2007 to march 2008 - just 6 months. granted i used the softer of two compounds, and i also cracked the mount on installation... but that's what it ended up looking like. it was survivable on an automatic. but it made the manual undriveable.

95_BLK_ON_BLK

hey Greeny you max looks sick in your sig.

ok here goes.. i have a 95 gxe and am having trouble with the odometer. My odometer does not want to clock miles but my speedo and tach. work. has any1 experienced this b4 and would have some suggestions? considering just getting a new cluster but not sure if that would resolve the issue, could it be wiring? all fuses are fine. thx in advance