make sure I understand; remove a spark plug wire, the engine shakes more? that is good. plug it in, then go to the next. do one plug wire at a time. if all 6 make it shake more, that is good. if there is no difference when you pull the plug, that cylinder is having problems (either no spark, or no fuel)

have you checked your maf wires, yet?

Well, it doesnt really shake but very slighty, though. Im confused, another poster told me the opposite of pull the spark plug wires in this forum. Other than that, all plugs I pull one at time, its running fine. Is that a good news?

MAF? You mean Mass Air Flow such as Air ram, mass air flow sensor? Yes, I replaced all of it. Its fine for about a week but the problem show up again. I even had the old Mass Air Flow sensor that came with Air ram again, no difference. I dont think it has to do with MAF.

I think it has to do with fuel system..I explained my problems yesterday. Dont know if you read it or not.

Oh one more thing, why it is every time I drive for awhile then I come home..I see a little smoke come out of the valve header. Is that normal?

Im confused, what he told me was opposite. I pulled all spark plug wires by one wire a time, its still running fine. Is it means the fuel injector goes bad?

it if shakes and loses power wen u pull it = a good injector.
u pull it and it keep running with no difference = bad injector

That means I have all 6 bad fuel injectors because each time I pulled, it kept running!

im not sure but i think its a small chance that you get all 6 injectors going out at once methinks its something else

yeah im having no luck finding this sensor.. lol i feel dumb and im probably looking at it.. could you maybe help me by giving more detail??? more pics maybe?? or more directions to find the sensor

I own 1994 Maxima ... Everything is fine and dandy, except i've got some serious lighting problems... the most obvious thing is my driver side high-beam's inability to come on, i swapped out the bulb and its not that, so it might be related to "part two" of my problem. All interior display lights(this includes the dash and down by the shift selector too) will randomly shut off or just not come on to begin with (my tail and break lights will stop working in direct conjunction with the interiors when this happens too). Usually I can just turn the light switch back and forth a couple times and everything will light up...sometimes not... in combination with this I will often times lose my high-beams (beam :P) all together. Or I'll get interior lights but no high-beam(s)... could any one shed light on this situation please?

your switch is bad, and needs the contacts cleaned, or the switch replaced.
the first is cheaper, the second is all-around easier.

follow the upper radiator hose to the engine. it will be in teh metal housing, there.

dam dat sucks. ur car must shake like an earthquake and run like it has no power. yea better fix that so u can have ur full power.

where exactly does this smoke come from? do you have pictures?

yeAh but there is more than one thin that looks like the sensor.. i dont know which it is..

lol ok.. i found it lol i feel dumb.. yeah it was loose like the video.. about to replace it.. Thanks for the help..

Well, i have a question about my 89 maxima se.. while driving the car, like if the car is in 1st gear and you get to about 3000 rpms and let go of the gas, the shifter moves forward alot.. icant really explain its hard to put into words for me.. does this sound like a problem?? i just didnt think the shifter should be moving forward or backwards while in gear.. please help

auto or manual?
manual will move a little, regardless. if it moves a lot, you probably need new engine mounts.

auto trans?

kinda hard question without pics, but i was digging in my trunk, and where the left arm that lifts up the trunk is theres a black plastic casing with green, yellow, etc. wires inside, and it looks like someone must have cut it because the wires are exposed and its not wrapped up

could this be spoiler wiring or antenna wiring? im pretty sure my antenna isnt working because it seems to be stuck half up always but i cant imagine a antenna needing all those wires

ok i changed it but the gauge still doesnt move..??

I own a 94 Maxima SE with a/t. It's been my little trooper, got 172k miles now. It needs work though, and I wanna learn to do it myself. I'm a noob though so I have a lot of questions that I hope you guys can help me with.

The major problem is that when it gets up to about 30mph, shifting from 1st to 2nd gear I guess, the steering wheel makes a brief and sudden jerk to the right. I've become able to tell when its gonna happen to keep from dying, but I want this fixed. Does it sound like the tranny, or maybe a bad bushing, mount, etc?

most likely control arm bushings. my POS civic does that too, cept it's a manual. but you can see the wheel jerk to the right when i step on the clutch and back to the left when i get back on the gas.

is there a write up on vaccum hoses? i dont know which are which and wonna know exactly which are the one's.

how do i know if i need to replace my MAF? i have 2 bad injectors so the car runs kinda crappy already. like what do i look for when i check it? and if i clean it how would i do that and would that fix it is bad/dirty.

my e-brake does not work. cant find a thread on it. -_-

also when i brake it makes a sound in the front brakes like a stretching noise, what can this be?

Most likely the wiring for the stock amplifier for non bose audio rear speakers. Previous owner must have taken off the amp and cut off the connector.

Thanks man. I think you're right. I went in for an alignment a year ago and he told me I needed the control arm bushings replaced. The jerk wasn't there, or maybe wasn't as pronounced yet. He quoted me at $300, does that sound like a fair price? Can this be a DIY job?

Scratch the last question.

New question, sorry about the noob posts btw. Is it possible to make my headlights brighter without having to mod? Like buying some hyperwhite bulbs?

do NOT put blue bulbs in your car. that is all "hyperwhite" means. and blue means less bright.
get yourself some silverstar ultras. good bulbs, no mods.

do an advanced search for "9007" by username "greeny"

ok I know I have a bad ball joint just from recent experience its not hard to know whatsup. on my way to work I noticed this. now I am to lazy to crawl under my car at work and want to pick parts up on my way home. can you change just the ball joint or do you need to swap the whole control arm.

You can change just the ball joint. It unbolts from the control arm

#5581 ....

ok I don't really know what's going on here. my passenger side window will not roll up with the drivers side button but will roll up with the passenger button. it used to work every now n then. started making funny noises but still worked every now n then now it just doesn't work. bad button? bad wiring? whatsup?

bad driver side master switch, hit up your local junkyard for a replacement..

10+
thanks a lot bruh, the link helped alot

i needed that cuz i want to replace them with silicone hoses.
now all i need to know where the fuel lines are so i dont mistakenly swap it
cuz i know fuel line cant use silicone hoses -_-

if the ebrake dosent work then check the rear break shoes or pads.. they might be totally wore out.
if it makes a scretching noise then its prolly time to get new break pads.

oopsss... haha. just saw that ben answered.

yea im thinking of getting some HAWK Pads and new rotors

alright so i got all of my engine work done a couple weeks ago and he did a complete inspection, and all of this was bad

- oil leak
- inner tie rods
- need a alignment
- brake pads
- missing front swaybar mount
- control arm bushings
- right rear caliper partially seized

he said one of the parts would be nearly impossible to get new now and to get it from the junkyard but i cant remember which, i checked around and are these the correct tie rods?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-INN...Q5fAccessories

and these control arm bushings?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-Low...Q5fAccessories

what about the swaybar mount? i cant find it on Ebay or Courtesy, know where i can find one? thanks

search for the kit on ebay, i think i payed like $125 for control arms/ball joints/ inner and outer tie rods.

edit*

this is the kit i bought, here yah go bruh
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BALL-...ht_1933wt_1167

So it's been about 2 weeks since I finished swapping my transmission, and replacing various seals, and the clutch. Only problem is that after I fixed the transmission leak, oil started leaking from somewhere!

It's pooling and dripping from where the tranny meets the block. It's not a ton of oil, but any oil leak is cause for concern. It's a brand new rear main seal so I can't imagine that would be leaking. I read that it could be the oil pan gasket, or valve covers but I'm skeptical. I know for a fact it's engine oil. The transmission is not leaking, I've already checked.

Any other ideas? Is it possible the rear main is leaking? What are the chances of a brand new seal being bad? The leak is worse after it's been driven a long distance.

How incredibly impossible would it be for a noob like myself to replace the valve cover gaskets?

My idle is a bit erratic (starts about 1200, after a bit of driving my idle drops to 5-600)

rear one is easy. front one involves taking the intake manifold off, buying new gaskets for it, cleaning up the mating surface for that also, not breaking vac hoses, etc. o and getting the freaking EGR pipe to come loose. if you've done stuff like that before, then not too hard. if not, you might consider asking for help with it.