300zmax

My new exhaust that i made from scratch, been on for almost a week and its been great, i lost some low end torque (doesn't feel like a civic at least) but nothing that wont be fix later on with a set of JWT cams and other goodies. the pipe is 2 1/4 to the flex then it gets bumped up to 2 1/2 for the magniflow 50 state cat. bonus is i passed state inspection beter than i did the last time.

3g94MaxGXE

Not a fan of the color but this y pipe does look like it would weight less than the warpspeed though I can't really see the area where the rear manifold is but it kinda looks like it exits at a bad angle.

300zmax

probly not the best angle, its alot light than the OEM, i will put up more picks later.

3g94MaxGXE

What's it made out of?

300zmax

mostly mild steel, the flex and the cat are stainless.

3g94MaxGXE

bummer, if it was all stainless I'd probably be begging you to make another one within the year.

300zmax

i can do stainless its just hella expencive, this cost me $150 to $180 for material, flex and cat. half the price of stainless. summitracing.com is my suplier

3g94MaxGXE

I agree. warpspeed I believe sells the Y (no cat) in stainless for $265 and the regular for $200. However they don't seem to have the stainless one on their ebay which would make payment easier on me. If I could find someone who could make a stainless one that looks (and possibly performs) better for less it would be nice. Mufflers are cheaper per inch than these y pipes are.

sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

how do y-pipes effect low end torque it seems their only purpose would be to releive backpressure which would cause a general increase in power across the powerband?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

it's got to do with airspeed velocity and the amount of air that the exhaust puts out at different RPMs

sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

turbulence?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

that's why we use wsp pipes... to avoid that. dunno so much about it as far as when it's most present, etc.

300zmax

one thing that happens is that as the exhaust flows threw the pipes it causes a vacuum in the pipes that helps to pull airinto the cylinder heads (called scavenging) while the intake and exhaust valves are open at the same time. this is the effect equal length headers have on an engine as well as matching the flow as evenly aspossible from cylinder to cylinder. to much scavenging can be bad

xx-Marshall-xx

iTrader: (15)

Im re-stating my problem again


Cyl 2 and 5 are NOT firing.

-Coils are good
-plugs are good (they are dry and do not smell like gas) which could mean that the injectors are not working
-swapped power transistor
-looked at relay, didnt test it (dont know how, i will real the FSM later)


i dont know what else to check

sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

so couldnt i just adjust the timing after the exhaust is put on or just install new cams?

sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

also cant find any oem headers anywhere i can find the rear manifold but not anything else except aftermarket can somebody tell me where i can find this part cuase mine are cracked through

300zmax

scavenging is good when the cam is timed right either stock or a little advanced. it helps draw fresh air in the engine. you would need to adjust the cam timing to get the most out of it. with my mustang it helped alot with the cam being advanced a few degrees and the long tube headers. max oem manifolds flow pretty well accualy. you can get pacesetters but i dont like them personal opinion

300zmax

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/se...=1991%20Nissan

maxima headers, well some of them i think.

sleepyvg30e

iTrader: (1)

so if i get stock headers and an aftermarket y-pipe should i advance 2-3 degrees or higher
no this sites only got pacesetter and they got a bad deal on them too

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

when you said the plugs ad oil on them i figured maybe they had enough on them to actually cause the misfire. which is why i said that.

did you hook a multimeter up to the injector plugs in question (harness side) and look at voltage while motor is running? can't use a test light (will kill ecu) but multimeter in 20vdc mode is ok to use.

Entong

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...g_01/Cable.jpg

My car 92 VE has rough idle, i found this cable hanging below the airbox. where is this cable connected to?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

that's eerily similar of a picture i took of my car... i have the same red/black strap on my tranny jack. is that a pic of your car for serious? weeeeird if it is. my car is even the same color as yours haha.

anyhow that's the transmission ground wire.

Entong

Yes, that is your car's pic, I was searching for my car's rough idle when i saw your post(pic). same cable as mine. I can't take a clear picture of mine so i borrowed yours if you don't mind.

Thank you,

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

oh it's fine i was just like whaaaaat if by chance you had the same color car and the same style of tranny jack as i do. there should be a clip on the tranny that that clips into, and it should have a loom at the other end bolted onto one of the tranny mounts or something... depends if a/t or m/t as to where exactly it bolts in.

GUS'MAXIMA

My right headlight does not want to work. The bulb is fine because it works on the left side. The cable also gets electricity. Im guessing that it does not get enough electricity. Sometimes i turn it on and it works. The connectors are all clean.

GUS'MAXIMA

My car begins to shake uncontrolably when i put it into drive. It is worse when i stop at a light and stay at an idle. Once i pass 30 it goes away. What can it be. When in park or nuetral it does not shake. sometimes it hesitates.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

usually the problem is the switch. you can get another at the junk yard, and hope it works, get a new one at the dealer, and cry about how much more empty your wallet is, or try to clean the contacts in your current switch and hope you get everything back together good, and it at least works. a few of us have done this, and been okay, while others were forced down another path...

removing the switch isnt hard, just remove the plastic pieces around the steering column, and there are a couple of screws holding the switch in place after that.

coolsun

iTrader: (10)

just wondering should i relplace a broken antenna mast or get one of those in glass antennas on ebay? (because i cant find them in stores) thanks

3g94MaxGXE

Sounds like you've got a misfire to me.

GUS'MAXIMA

I think it would look neater and sleaker if you replace the broken antenna mast. you can probably get one at the junkyard. there are some antennas with the motor and different rings on ebay as well for 20.00.

coolsun

iTrader: (10)

i cant seem to see ot find the mast on ebay anymore for our 3rd gen but the new ones with the motor are $20 but shipping is another $12 so is there any other places for cheap thanks

YearOfTheGus

iTrader: (2)

Does anyone happen to know what color dot the #3 (near the firewall, middle injector) fuel injector has on a '94 VG?

I'd look at the clip that has the dot but that was broken off.

The plastic is seized together where the wiring harness connects, so I can't really check the other injectors to find out.

GUS'MAXIMA

Thanks for the help. That was exactly what was wrong with it.What i did was remove the big plastic piece ontop of the pedals and the plastic around the steering wheel. Then i removed the two screwes and it came out. I seperated the clear part from the black to clean it better. I cut little peices of sandpaper very fine grade and sanded the bottom of the contacts and the top. The clearence of the pieces were almost all the same. Then i put it all back together and it worked perfectly. thanks

GUS'MAXIMA

I guess if you want to stick with the original antenna you should go to a junkyard where you can get the antenna mast instead of the whole system. You will defenetly get a better deal. I saw some fin like antennas that come with the new BMWs on ebay that look cool but i dought they will work on our 3rd gen maximas.

ajan246

OK I have a 1989 Nissan Maxima 3.0L SOHC heres my problem, I went to check my oil and noticed coolant all over the the place. Traced the leak to a loose hose and when I went to tighten the hose the nipple the hose slid on to broke off. I have the FSM but I cant find what the hell this hose is exactly. Here are some pics. Any suggestions ? Any type of like hammer on replacement or am I going to be installing a new throttle body kit? Here are some pics:

3g94MaxGXE

It's either time for a new TB or you could have the old nipple welded back on. As far as where the hose is there is a big wad of them right in front of the IACV and it should be an easy find if you just look. I'll see if I can find a pic of the one you are looking for.



Didn't find a good pic but look where the red circle is, the hose should run along in that area. If you have to you can remove the dual duct to check for it.

ajan246

hey thanks for the quick reply. I found the hose no problems do you know what it is? I have no clue what the purpose of the hose is... its carrying coolant but for what I'm not sure.

3g94MaxGXE

I'm sorry don't really know much about this stuff. I was only able to help you because I pulled off my throttle body this week and had to disconnect it. Good to know I'm picking up at least a little useful info along the way.

ajan246

How difficult is it? Pretty straight forward? unbolt and bolt back on?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

it's to heat up the throttle plates quicker so your throttle won't stick in cold cold weather. that way as your car warms up, the throttle will warm up with it, and be nice and smooth when you start driving it. doesn't matter nearly as much, if at all, in the summer. i have mine bypassed. you can bypass yours, or i've got a spare TB you can buy.