89 Maxima, miles 120k. RPMs shot up almost to the red line, then car wouldn’t go more than 35 mph. Tried a new cat. No change. Changed the transmission fluid and there was a noticeable improvement. Then took it on the highway and power was weak. Had the whole transmission rebuilt. Improved performance on highway but occasionally on local streets, when stepping on the gas, no power. But when letting foot off the gas, power kicks in. Changed the throttle position sensor and it didn’t work. Even installed a second throttle position sensor and that one didn’t work either.

Any ideas on the source of the problem?

Your input is greatly appreciated.

 

you should go to general maintenance sticky and look for the tranny diagnostic thread, do a diagnostic on tranny, see what happens if you cant get the p on the power comfort switch to come one after doing all the steps, theres a problems with od switch or inhibitor switch or tps, those will keep you out of tranny diagnostics, my other advice would be to check your ecu for trouble codes also could be engine related considering your tranny is rebuilt but id see what the computers in the car say and take it from there

 

I dont know where else to post this considering im noob and cant start a thread yet so it goes here, this cardomain page has a TON of info that helped me out with my final steps on an engine swap, TPS, IACV, ECU, TCU, various things all very usefull im kinda sketchy on some of it though like tcu test connector mod and the tranny kickdown mod but the rest of it seems straight from the fsm, which i havent seen so i maybe wrong, but i have done the tests and it all checks out so i figured id add this gem to the treasure trove

 

forgot link http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507...maxima/page-21

 

i dont want to make a thread just for this question so here it is and i hope someone can answer it.

what does it mean when you can move/rock your car back n forth?
isnt it supposed to not move that easy?

 

If anybody can tell me where the knock sensor is located on the VE engine because I seen it change on a 96 max with a VE engine and it was located inside the intake manifold. I'm look to change this part soon so a picture would be great for this. Thanks again.

 

it'll rock back and forth some. if it seems like more than what would seem normal, try engaging the parking brake, and see if it moves as much.

 

Yup. guy is (or was) on here for a while. user name is wiking. there has been some debate on a few of his suggestions (swiss cheese intake for one).
but 99.9% of his stuff is spot on.

and since I am here, link to online FSM (need adobe reader, or the like to open the files)
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/1994/

 

About 10 years ago one fuel injector went out on my 1991 Maxima. At that time I only replaced the bad one. Fast forward to today and 2 maybe 3 injectors are bad. Using a multi-meter the 1 and 2 injectors I get no reading and the 3 injector shows over 19ohms. The others were 12-13ohms. Symptoms likely indicate bad injectors, e.g., loss of power, poor gas millage, and rough idle. I've got 190k miles and would like to get another 30k out of it.

Questions:
1. I don't want to pull the intake manifold for a third time, so I'm planning on replacing all 6 using new injectors. Do I need to go with an OEM grade like Bosch or will some of the cheaper brands be OK?
2. While I have the intake manifold off, should I take care of anything else? I plan to replace any vacuum hoses, clean electrical fittings, and wrap cracked wire boots. Maybe change valve cover gaskets since there is a little seapage. Any sensors I should replace? Willing to spend another ~$300 on parts.

 

Sweet link ill be using the crap out of it

 

Looked in the FAQ, and searched this thread, and the third gen forum. Couldn't find it.

I have a 1989 Maxima. Reading the thread linked below, it states what sets the SE, and GXE apart. Now, everything about mine fits the GXE area to a que. Except that my gauge cluster is white. Is it likely that it was changed? Or was there a option? Any ideas? Or was the thread simply mistaken?

http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...-gxe-trim.html


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...a/101_0008.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...a/101_0011.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...a/101_0012.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...a/101_0013.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...a/101_0017.jpg

Edit,

Oh, and the car has the door handle key pad deal.

 

u have a gxe by the looks of your pics

 

yeah you 100% have a GXE, 99% that someone swapped the cluster out for a SE one because the SE ones look better and its easy upgrade, i have though heard of a couple people getting them on GXE's brand new though.

 

Awesome, thank you for the confirmation!

One more question. I haven't ripped the dash apart to see how it is put together, but most of the dashes I've taken apart has the gauges, and odometer in one unit. Is the odometer on these mounted as a stand alone unit in the dash? Simply asking to know if the car really has 280k on it.

 

i think i know what you mean, yes you can go inside the odometer and roll it ahead/back manually, or swap odometers with a different cluster so anyone can tamper with it

 

i dont feel like making a thread on this so ill ask here.

can a messed up / gone / done / fawkd up catalytic converter make your car run sluggish and make it lose power?

same question for the oxygen sensor.

 

Well, from most anything I've messed with, the only things that'll make it sluggish is a clogged one. Missing/gutted ones won't. Although may throw a code...

A broken #1 sensor (The sensors before the converter) can cause problems.

 

anyone found a good way to clean the stock sawblade's? mine are really dirty and CG Citrus wheel cleaner just isn't getting it.

 

its been like that before i put in my cone.
when u say #1 sensor are u saying we have more than 1 oxygen sensor?
the only one i ever seen is the one that connects to the y-pipe.

 

sand them with 400 grit and wipe down with windex then let dry and spray paint them

 

+1 check out one of James' threads from a week or two ago, he half-**** painted some stock sawblades and they came out good

 

check out my thread. last post is a pic of my max with the rims i spray painted cuz they where scuffed n dirty

http://forums.maxima.org/tires-wheel...ml#post7871559

 

When I said #1, I meant it simply as a umbrella term. For anyone looking to take any knowledge past the third-gen area. Since these are third-gens I believe they only have a single one? Haven't been under one in some time though...

Most newer "V's" have a sensor for each bank pre-converter, and a post converter one (Two if it has two converters).

 

yea i only have one.

does it matter what name brand the oxygen sensor is?
cuz at the shop i go to they have a bosch for $40 and a ngk for $50.

 

i have a vg30e and its got no egr hook up on the manifold, not blocked off, i mean non existent the bleeder valve for the coolant is blocked off also, i ordered this engine online and they said it was imported from japan, i hooked up the egr solenoid from the old engine to get the ecu to work with it but can anyone tell me if this is a common occurance? i got it together and it runs well but there some issues that seem to be egr related that i cant fix cause i dont have one nor can i put one on this manifold, mainly just wandering if its common is all

 

I have a 94 VG30E. I just purchased the car in March of 2010. When it is below freezing on a cold start, I get a really really strong odor of gasoline for about 5 - 10 minutes until the car warms up a little. The first time I smelled it I was conviced a had a fuel leak. Can't find any leaks. The smell comes into the car and is strong under the hood. Any ideas? NO check engine light; I did a manual code check about a month ago. Thnx.

 

just hit up a search its common and theres quite a few threads on it

http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...gas-smell.html

 

I bought a new ( reman ) starter because it sounds weird, (As in something's grinding) on the first start of the day, but normal afterwards. Unless others have experienced this, I'm welcome for suggestions. But I'm having trouble locating where the starter is located and how to get to it. (FSM and Chilton displays its exploded view, not its location)

 

I would replace fuel injectors wiring harness in it's entirety if it's like what it sounds like. If you have the dough then go OEM(Courtesy Nissan.com), check out that site for OEM Nissan parts, it's cheaper than going to a dealership in my experience. If you don't care that much about your Max or don't think it's worth it then get the cheaper after market parts, I'm just suggesting what I would do if it were my Max. Good wrenching.

 

it's on the front of the transmission, by the radiator (sort of).
pull the splash guards off, it'll be RIGHT there.

 

i have 92 with almost 160K
the car sits in the summer, when i started it this fall the PS was loud.
check fluid and was WAY low. i added fluid and now sounds quiet and drives fine.
month later went in for oil change and they tell me from peaking behind the rubber boot there is a seal leakings and that is how PS fluid is leaking...

the quote is like we can't fix that you need a whole new rack assembly for the power steering... I'm like WTF....? cuz the price was north of $800.00


so is it REALLY true you can not fix it by replacing the leaky seal? and you have to throw new parts at it and can't fix anything....

do far i have been adding about 1/4 cup of fluid every 2 weeks.....
any opinions ? TIA
-ALF out....

 

Thank you. Surprising it was mention in the Haynes manual of how to replace it. (Jacking the car up) I'm surprised that it isn't that useless after all.

 

If your that good at rebuilding a rack and pinion then go for it. Just easier replacing the whole rack and pinion. If your not mechanically inclined like i notice some on here aren't don't dive head first into this type of project. Someone good can remove and replace the rack and pinion in around three hours on average. And those who plan on adding there two cents trying to flame me because im posting info i know and share keep it to yourself because I've removed and replaced the rack and pinion on both my own VE30DE as well as a customer car while in college. Its not hard to do for those who are good with tools.

 

elusivemax93 , thanx for the quick reply.
I am not into FWD so NO i will not be working on this car.
My father-in-law gave it to us and i needed major brake job and 2 new fuel injectors for total of 2G's in work for a FREE car... I think it's a money pit, but i see why my F-in-Law loves it so much, the motor is STRONG !! almost a early 90's hot rod in it's day.
After getting it on the road, was going to emissions and a strut failed on the way there. So 2 front shocks was another 800.00.... SMH. my '96 Impala SS was 270.00 for 4 new shocks with life time warranty.....then last summer one lower ball joint and both tie-rods were toast and wrecked a tire, that was another 800 for parts,tires,& alignment.
the steering is the last straw i guess for me...i have more fun places to spend my cash.
-ALF out....

 

Lmfao well I just replaced all suspension on my VE-5 I spent around $1,500-2,000 but I also enjoy my nissan maxima se with 5 speed transmission.

 

Man truthfully maxima's aren't that cheap to own.buy yes but these cars are costly on some parts.most places to buy wheel hubs unless you know good places with good prices like local dealership parts will say $400+ tax. maxima's are fun but costly.

 

lol. that is one reason I am glad I have a vg. if I need a part that's not transmission, I just go rape a gxe at PAP.

 

hahaha same, i actually have a horde of random 3rd gen parts in the basement from the junkyard

im really like a 3rd gen parts Joo

 

I don't need a pull a parts. I got my spare parts se VE30DE. The whole car for only $200 from a mechanic who had it for two years parked never got around to fixing it. I always got connections on VE parts.

 

I thought my maxima was a 91 but its a 89. The ecu still wont kick on. I replaced the ecu with a refurbished one and still no test lights come on. I replaced the ecu relay and all fusible links and still nothing. I ohmed out the power wires to it and all of them but one reads 12 or higher.

There is a orange wire with a green stripe that ohms out to about 2v. Even with a test light it is very dim. It is on the right side of the ecu 2nd in from bottom. Does this wire have to be 12v too? If yes i will try to jump it and see if that works.


Any help is appreciated.