SFC= Sub Frame Connectors

--> http://forums.maxima.org/advanced-su...6k-beware.html

---> http://forums.maxima.org/advanced-su...fc-thread.html

 

I have a 94 GXE (115K mi), and through this great forum I have discovered that I have had many common 3rd Gen ailments in past (exhaust manifold bolts, failed injectors, rear speakers with no sound after new head unit, stuck antenna mast, etc.) I love this car because, overall, it has been dependable and most of all because it is paid off!

The first issue I have currently is a nagging rattling sound coming from the rear suspension when going over bumps. It doesn't make any noise when I bounce the rear of the car by hand. Elsewhere, someone said it could be broken sway bar mounting brackets, but they don't seem broken (would it be obvious if they are broken?). Any other ideas on what it could be?

The second issue is one that I realized I have by reading other threads. Very occasionally, I will get a clattering sound from the engine on cold starts. It goes away quickly. I believe this is the "VTC issue". How seriously should I take this problem? Should I immediately try to get one of the replacement Toyota filters installed? It's not clear whether the different filters can actually prevent the problem from getting worse.

At this point in the car's life, I'm willing to put about $1K per year into the car in repairs, because it's cheaper than a new car (or even a different used car) and I know where the car has been (1 owner - me). Thanks for your help and advice.

 

Thanks for the response greeny, i guess WS is the company to go with unless clearance is an issue right?

 

Your going to have to get under there and look around thoroughly for the rattle/broken part, it may be in the exhaust system(broken hanger or something like that) it may be a broken parallel link, or more likely the bushings inside the parallel link/s. It may also be a bad strut mount insulator, or worst case scenario, the rear wheel well where the rear struts mount to may be rusted/rotted. other area to look at are the rear wheel bearings, coil springs, etc. Jack the rear of the car up, put it on jack stands, this should give you plenty of room to look around for broken parts, it will also release the pressure off the rear suspension, making it a little easier to shake stuff around and hopefully locate the rattle



You posted that you have a 94 "GXE" right?

If you indeed have a gxe, then you don't have vtc's. The gxe 3rd gens only have the sohc vg30e engine. the only model 3rd gen that have the vtc's are 92-94 SE model with the dohc VE30DE engine. The following pics show the difference in engines.

VG30E SOHC Engine



VE30DE DOHC engine

 

YA BUT I WANTED SOMETHIN A LIL MORE PERFORMANCE THAT CAN RUN A LIL BOOST AND WONT HAVE ANY PROBLEMS ANY ONE KNOW ANYTHIN THANKS 4 THE HELP

 

Where can i find a decent short throw shifter for a 93 maxima SE besides Pacesetter ones?

And are the Pacesetter short throw any good?

 

Here is 4th gen on a 3rd gen sts mod--> http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...n+4th+shifter=

I've had a pacesetter sts on my car for many years now, I've had no problems with it, works flawlessly. alot of people have talked sheit about the pacesetter sts on here in the past, but idk why.

BTW: I seen your cardomain page(nice car ) you have a "Sun Hyper voltage system" on your VE? Care to elaborate more on this? i'm curious

 

Personally, if i was to do a sfc, i would just fab-n-weld a custom one up myself. but thats just me.

 

my 1990 se maxima stalls on warm days... i dont mean like a little hesitation, it falls flat on its face like im running out of gas, and it surges HARD under full throttle. i have changed vac hoses, plugs, wires, cap, rotor,all filters, and coil.. but it still remains, no codes,... and on colder days(60deg, its west texas thats almost winter) it will run way better..

 

I had the same problem on my 92 maxima se when i bought it, turned out to be the coils and plugs, well atleast thats what i replaced, maybe it was one or the other, but i know that the previous owner put the wrong plugs in it so maybe it was just the plugs

 

Ya i have a Sun Hyper voltage system, but i don't think its worth it (well the one i bought), i mean i didn't see or feel any difference. i would probally just get a grounding kit instead.

i bought this one. it's the cheaper one http://www.racinglab.com/sun-eco-blue-228.html




Would i be able to run these lights w/ a heavy duty harness? i did the 9007 mod too.

Luminics Ultra White Headlight Bulbs (9007) http://www.racinglab.com/luminics-ultra-white-9007.html

 

..............

blue glass on headlight bulbs is

true story






reason being, on any incandescent bulb, it's mostly yellow light. so filtering MOSTLY yellow light behing a BLUE tint is going to block out most of your useable light and leave you ONLY with blue light, which is the RAREST part of the spectrum in incandescent bulbs. moral of the story: clear-glass bulbs or go home.

 

Description:
# Luminics Light Bulbs, Color: Ultra White 5,150K
# Wattage: 12V65/55W, Output: 140/120W
# *For Auto Styling use only. Not DOT.
# Not recommended for driving lights use.
# Price is for two (2) light bulbs


They say, but "don't say" in BS terms that these bulbs are illegal for street use.

I wouldn't use them.

 

will the Stillen strut tower bar for 89-92 Maxima fit on a 93 Maxmia SE.

http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?i...N&model=MAXIMA

I saw a forum where someone said that a 5th gen Maxima FSTB will fit on 3rd gen. Is this true?

 

The 3rd gen stillen bar will fit any 89-94 maxima..But the cheapo ebay bars will only fit the VG30E ( sohc) engine.

The cheapo ebay strut bar for the 5th gen will fit the 92-94 VE30DE (dohc) engine, with a small modification to the passenger side a/c strut tower bracket(you have to bend it down a little)

 

Can Anyone post a how-to on ways to go about taking parts off car to prepare for an engine swap?? guess wut im sayin is...im preparing my 89 SE 5spd for an engine swap and im doing alot of the work myself to get it ready to have second engine thrown in and im wonderin if any of you could post instructions on how and the way you went about doing that when you went about ur engine swap??

 

the cheapo egay bar I had didn't need any mods. you just need to find the one with the right brackets.

 

i have a CustomMaxima.com 5th gen bar that i'm gonna put on soon. still not done painting it the way i want it tho....

 

ANYONE KNOW ANY PERFORMANCE HEAD GASKETS FOR A VG30E MAXIMA I WANT THEM SOMEONE HELP ME PLEASE

 

i have been looking for some replies to my questions.
does anyone know what kind of brakets i need to run bride seats

is the pace setter cat back any good? the sts too.

would the accord cai fit. i had put my stock int setup on my friends civic cause his intake riped and it fit like a glove

i got these off of another 3rd gen in the junk and i was wondering what rubber size i should run


and i think thats it for now. thanx for reading

 

What's up everyone ....Hope everyone is doing good.... Here's my problem...
yesterday i was installing my stereo and when it came down to connecting the wires, i accidentally connected the orange dimmer light to the yellow 12volt wire and after doing that the fuse for the audio and tail lights blew....i replaced the tail lights fuse and then my lights in the back and the dash came back on...after i turned my car off then on again...the fuse didn't blow out, but the dash lights now do not want to come on at all....my lights in the back are working now with no problem....can anyone maybe suggest sumthin to me that maybe i have over looked ?...it really sucks driving at night b/c i can't see anything !!!....Thanks all you maxima heads for you advice !!....pEaCE !
---matty matt----

 

ask on a z31 forum. it's the same engine

 

you will need brackets that are for the 3rd gen to mount the seats.
for everything else use the search feature

 

where would i be able to het the brakets. i have been looking and no luck

 

as far as I can tell, you'd need to make some. possibly reusing the factory ones, but I havent taken my seats apart, so I couldn't be sure.

and since I have never installed racing seats, I am unsure if most manufacturers have a a standard bolt pattern (such as the bolt pattern most lcd screens), or not.
I found that sparco seems to make some (for a 90-93 maxima?)
http://www.racing-seats-usa.com/sp.html
although, I cannot find it listed on the sparco site...

 

Hi Everyone,

Yes, another newbie.

I have had my Maxima '93 for a couple of years now. It was a gift from an inlaw. At the time they told me that the electric windows don't work and that it would cost around $500 to fix. (I wasn't given details but I assume it is the electronic module in the driverside door. Oh, a little more detail. No sound of motors on any door, individual doors don't work. No switches on the drivers door work except the door lock switch.

So my questions are... Is this a common problem with them?
If so, is there a cheaper workaround?
Any suggestions of links to help test the module myself (I'm sort of handy with electronics) or links to similar problems?

Thanks in advance.
David

 

mornin'.
newbies are always welcome.
as obvious as it sounds, did you check the fuses?
it is pretty common for window regulators to fail. if you were to take the door pannels off, and look at the window regulators, if the wire is all twisted up, like spagetti, rather than neatly coiled, the regulator is bad.
if the motor doesnt "wrrrr", the motor is probably bad, too.

 

I want to buy a grounding kit from BlehmCo, but what do you ground and where do you connect them?

 

Where is the garage jack point to get your car on jack stands!!!!!! stupid question but it's a pita, neither of my manuals say where to jack except theobv frame rail ones.

 

what do you mean "wrong plugs"? what plugs should i be running? changed the coil no effect what-so-ever.. why would it run better when it cold outside?.. this is my first import car i have been building domestics for along time now ('60's mustangs and cameros) what should the fuel pressure be? and the igniton timing be?

 

Thanks for your reply BenStoked.

Fuses are fine.
No windows in the car work from the drivers door or each door directly. I thought it may have been an issue someone may have heard of.

Found a useful users manual at
http://pdftown.com/Nissan-Maxima-200...ce-Manual.html

It has a section on "Trouble diagnosis for Power Window" which shows diagrams on where to put the multimeter to check for continuity and power at different points in order to isolate what the problem is.
So I guess I'll start the long arduous tast of taking the doors apart to test.

I'm open to any other suggestions as well.

David

 

First off I would take your driver door panel off and see if the switch is plugged in, the motor is connected to power, the wire is fine etc. Power windows are real easy to diagnose but you have to take off your door panels or youre just shooting blind. A lot of times people will put pieces of wood or whatever to prop the window up when broken so check for unusual items holding the window up also.

 

Matt includes directions. It is one of the things that make his kit worth the extra dough.

 

thanks alot. i will go look for them online on other websites

 

???????anything???????

 

That's a pretty heavy load on someone. Try searching for Engine swap in the third-gen specific area and I'm sure you will get many results on it. There have been quite a few engine swap threads over the past few years that have tons of good info.

 

Sux you bought 4x6's to put in the front doors, I had 4x6s in the front doors of my max, which did have the BOSE system, which has since been all rewired, but I unscrewed the mounting bracket or pod if ya prefer that houses the 4x6, spent about a minute with a dremel tool and cut myself out an opening for a 6.5, which I have in there now. Phenomenal difference in sound quality, albeit I hate any speakers smaller than 6 inches. Planning a new install to squeeze a pair of 6x8's in the door. If it can be done, then do it.

 

Thanks for the reply Tampamaximus.

Ok, so here is where I'm at. What a day. Thought I'd just quickly replace the rear deck speakers..... hah! Finally put replacements in as the old ones were just the cones in the middle with nothing holding them there... well worn.

Got the new speakers in (haven't reassembled yet) .... nothing. Great. So that's a problem for another day. Reassembled the back and started on troubleshooting the electric windows.

Thanks to the info that I linked to previously, I followed the fault diagnosis protocol as written in the manual.

Disassembled the drivers side door. Wiring good, no obvious problems.

With my trusty multi-meter, I proceded to test for voltage (yes, voltage coming into the master switch is fine) then I did continuity tests as per the guidelines, then all of a sudden I bumped another terminal and the rear left window moved (bear in mind that I am only testing for continuity with my multimeter, not supplying voltage anywhere). Then I tried a few other terminals, + on the terminal and - on the body and low and behold, all the windows (one at a time, not all at once) would move, but only down.

I thought to myself, if I can get them down, then I can get them up... Gong.... wrong. I finished up with all windows but the drivers side fully down and no way of getting them back up.

I had my old ducati battery in the garage so then I removed each door trim and applied 12vdc directly to the motor to put the windows back up. It worked and now I'm water proof again. (bear in mind that while I'm doing this, the radio is saying it's going to rain... great)

So anyway, long story short, all the windows work (didn't check the drivers door while I had it dissassembled and I didn't want the pull it apart again) but they don't work from any switches.

Is the problem the master switch????

Appreciate the help guys.

David

 

My 92 se m/t is hard to start. I hear a whining/whistling sound when I try to start the car without the engine engaging. After numerous times trying to crank the engine, it will finally start with an horrible grinding noise. From doing some searches, I think it is the starter solenoid going bad and I need to change it. Is this a fair assessment?

A new starter costs $240 with a $10 core charge at parts source (I'm in Canada.) Is that a good price?

 

Yes, it definitely sounds like you have a bad starter. They usually don't have just the solenoid at the parts stores, they usually sell the starter/solenoid as a whole unit.

Reman starters for the 3rd gen usually sell for about $100 in the us, brand new for about $150. so yeah, that is a little high.