nah the thing hanging off the steering column i unscrewed from the back of the old half moon steering wheel.

well the comfort/power switch is actually hold/normal/power. the hold button holds the gears so you can drive it like a manual. the 2 buttons beside it are for the adjustable suspension, comfort and sport.

 

the thing with the wires, the back doesn't match the new wheel? interesting....

where are you from (what country)?
what year do you have?

 

nah it's completely different (pix on previous page).

it's a 1989 JDM Maxima, they came with the 4 spoke wheel as well and the 4 spoke wheel is identical at the back (the brass rings) as the 300ZX wheel, but my 2 spoke is completely different.

i can't understand why they would be different, i mean what is the point in have the same car with different wheel assemblies? it just makes no sense

 

hmm... well, I will pull the wheel off my usdm 89 (4-spoke), see if it's different from my 91max, and s13/z31/z32/others-that-I-don't-know wheels.

 

Hi,
I’ve been having a few problems getting a smooth idle at the correct RPM on my J30 maxima with VG30E. I’ve been following the FSM procedure except there are a few strange things happening. I have searched for this exact same issue but could find reference to it. Firstly, when the idle is set in “N’ at 700RPM with IACV closed, even 750RPM, there is quite a vibration that develops through the car when at lights for a while and there is also always a slight unevenness to the idle. If at the lights for a couple of minutes, it is ok for about a minute but then the revs noticibly drop (to about 700-750) and the vibration starts. I’ve checked the engine mounts and they look fine. I’ve tried to reset idle numerous times (a little higher than recommended) but the problem doesn’t go away. The idle in N seems to get higher when adjusted but in D it doesn't seem to "stick". Also during the procedure, when closing IACV valve for setting the baseline RPM, then revs don’t always noticibly drop. I have checked the resistance across the IACV terminals and all are within spec. I’ve also taken the IACV out and cleaned it. The other issue is that when trying to hold the revs at 2000 during the procedure the engine seems to suddenly drop back to 1500. It keeps doing this when trying to hold around 2000. I end up having to hold at about 2200 to overcome this. The other thing I’ve noticed is that when first starting the car from cold the timing seems to sit around 20 degrees for quite a while before dropping back to 15 (maybe they are supposed to do this?). But when it does drop back it is always fluctuating between about 13 and 17. The FSM does state 15 +or – 2 degrees, but I didn’t think that it should fluctuate like this. I get the feeling that all these issues may be related. The car is very well maintained and in otherwise excellent condition. It has never shown any error codes.

 

Sweet. this is the back of the std steering wheel with the bits screwed on


and the back of the 4 spoke wheel again for comparison

 

ramlee - if you get ahold of a USDM stalk switch mount (with the 3 slipring buttons built in), then you can just bolt your headlight and wiper switches into that, splice the 3 wires for the cruise buttons/horn onto the USDM stalk mount, and put the 4-post wheel on. Where are you located anyhow? I have a spare but if you're not in the US, international shipping MIGHT be a biyatch...

 

i'm in New Zealand so it might cost quite a bit in shipping lol. i just wanted to cheaply upgrade the wheel since the 2 spoke one is just plain nasty, thinking that the 4 spoke one should bolt right on no worries, but i guess it looks like i'll be stuck with it :/

 

well... how about can you cut out the back of the 4post wheel and drill 4 holes and screw the JDM wire thing into the back of it the way it came out of your stock wheel?

 

hmm that's a thought. i'll have a better play of it tomorrow, and since it's unlikely i'll be able to sell it won't matter if it gets hacked up a little haha

 

mark, you may want to try the "spark plug test", see if the idle changes.if you find a cylinder that doesn't make it change, you aren't getting spark, or your injector is going bad. let let us know, okay?

 

This is the pic i find interesting... there are holes on that black wheel. that looks to me like some optical sensor, and I cannot think of a logical reason to have them there, at least, in a car that's 20 years old.



....then again, it's getting late, I am tired, and my mind is on installing a new OS on my server...

 

I bought the wire harness for the car. I hooked up every wire to its corresponding color. I'm no electrician at all. For the wire harness it has two (-)grounds that i connected both to the ground on my new stereo. And the (+) to (+), (-) to (-). But i didnt use the dark blue(power antenna) wire(I dont have a power antenna set up.) and i didnt use the orange wire(Dimmer/illumination). When i put the negative terminal back on the battery, the wires started to make clicking noises and the stereo was flashing colors and didnt work.i used these(http://www.qcsupply.com/images/produ...ctors-w280.jpg) to connect the wires and the wires that were not the same size, i tied em together and put electrical tape around them.) Help please. Sorry for Wall of text. lol

 

you sure the radio worked before? also, try to run a wire from the radio's chasis, to a ground on the car (there is a metal bracket the radio bracket will screw to. good ground point.)

 

Its a new stereo..

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by mark77
Hi,
I’ve been having a few problems getting a smooth idle at the correct RPM on my J30 maxima with VG30E. I’ve been following the FSM procedure except there are a few strange things happening. I have searched for this exact same issue but could find reference to it. Firstly, when the idle is set in “N’ at 700RPM with IACV closed, even 750RPM, there is quite a vibration that develops through the car when at lights for a while and there is also always a slight unevenness to the idle. If at the lights for a couple of minutes, it is ok for about a minute but then the revs noticibly drop (to about 700-750) and the vibration starts. I’ve checked the engine mounts and they look fine. I’ve tried to reset idle numerous times (a little higher than recommended) but the problem doesn’t go away. The idle in N seems to get higher when adjusted but in D it doesn't seem to "stick". Also during the procedure, when closing IACV valve for setting the baseline RPM, then revs don’t always noticibly drop. I have checked the resistance across the IACV terminals and all are within spec. I’ve also taken the IACV out and cleaned it. The other issue is that when trying to hold the revs at 2000 during the procedure the engine seems to suddenly drop back to 1500. It keeps doing this when trying to hold around 2000. I end up having to hold at about 2200 to overcome this. The other thing I’ve noticed is that when first starting the car from cold the timing seems to sit around 20 degrees for quite a while before dropping back to 15 (maybe they are supposed to do this?). But when it does drop back it is always fluctuating between about 13 and 17. The FSM does state 15 +or – 2 degrees, but I didn’t think that it should fluctuate like this. I get the feeling that all these issues may be related. The car is very well maintained and in otherwise excellent condition. It has never shown any error codes.

"mark, you may want to try the "spark plug test", see if the idle changes.if you find a cylinder that doesn't make it change, you aren't getting spark, or your injector is going bad. let let us know, okay?"



By spark plug test do you mean unplug the leads one at a time while the engine is running to see if it makes a difference? I would have thought if one cylinder was not getting spark then performance would suffer. The car seems to run well above idle. If this is the test you mean then i'll do it and let you know.

 

Alright, This is what i did, sorry if its confusing.. But i get a clicking noise from the wires even when the car is not on. Artist's rendition, ofcourse

 

do you still have bose? if you do, you are trying to amplify a signal that has been amp'd. you will need to unhook hte speaker wires, and tap into the line out of the head unit.

if you don't, remove the blue/white stripe from the equation.

did you try running a new ground, yet?

 

I tried a ground and nothing happened. the only time i get any sound is if the three ground wires are together and i touch the amp wires together but the stereo itself still won't come on.

 

sean, have you verified proper voltage from the yellow and red wires yet (dashboard side)?

 

Yeah. what i dont understand is why the harness has two (-)grounds.

 

Here's my problem: car is bogging down at low RPM's ocassionally sputtering, no funny sounds other than one whirring belt and no vibrations. as soon as it gets over 1500 RPM or so it's fine it just seems like it struggles to rev up. I've ohmed all the injectors and they're all around 13 ohms.
Here's what i've done:

Had a new flex section welded in and the exhaust checked for leaks.
Put in New NGK plugs
Cleaned the Air filter
Changed the Fuel Filter
Ran fuel injector cleaner through it

 

how's the dizzy cap/rotor? any build up?

 

totally clean, wires are fine too, no green corrosion anywhere.

 

Hi again,
I did the test to see if each cylinder was getting spark and they were. Next I checked the resistance for each injector harness. They were quite corroded with blue copper powder. To start with i couldn't even get a reading on the multimeter. I cleaned them off and they were all within spec (about 12 ohms). So i don't think they were causing my original problem. Curiously i was out this afternoon after doing all this and for the first time ever the car hesitated. I opened the hood and noticed that one of the leads was arcing against the engine under acceleration. It was properly attached. I took the plug out (NGK) and it looked fine. I swapped it with the plug next to it and checked again. Still same lead was arcing. Maybe i disturbed the last bit of life it had in it. I'm guessing i new set of leads is the solution. Still not convinced the original problem will go away though.

Mark

 

I don't mean to change the topic, but I have noticed a fuel leak coming from the drivers side near the tank. One day with a full tank I parked on a friend's steep driveway and came out a couple minutes later and there was fuel literally dripping down from under the car. I probably lost 2-4 ounces of fuel in a couple minutes. I moved the car to a smooth area and it stopped but I could still hear something sounding like bubbling so i opened the tank to let out the pressure. the noise went away.

I have looked under the car and I noticed there is always a little fuel on the place where it was dripping.


I don't know exactly where in this picture it was leaking, but it looks like you can see fuel stains.

Where is it coming from, do I need to fix anything, and if so, what?

 

Good Call!!! 2 of the rear injectors are showing 45-75 ohms. That is way over the 10-14 the fsm qoutes. Thanks again.

 

he said "89"

 

dose anyone know where i can get a short shifter for my 93 se pacesetter cut production

 

I own a 92 Maxima SE (the supposedly rare 5-speed manual version.) It is an extremely fast car. On paper, it does 0-60 in 6.6 seconds and finishes the quarter mile in 15.1 according to:

http://www.zeroto60times.com/Nissan-0-60-mph-Times.html

If you can please take a look at that site and look the car that's right under mine, which is the 1994 Nissan Maxima SE (Auto). It says that the automatic version does it in 8.7, which is much, MUCH slower than mine. Does that sound realistic? So does that mean that manuals shave off 2 seconds in 0-60 acceleration? WHY?

Also, I recently tested my car's 0-60 and I managed to get it in 6.9 seconds bone stock. Will a short ram intake or a cold air intake make it any faster? Much appreciated guys!

 

thats weird, ive always been told that auto is technically faster than 5 speed.

Youve got a 92 SE so you have the VG30E, same as my GXE, yet the 94 SE would have the VE with a extra 30hp. somethings up with that site then

 

ntrly....... my vg5 was a tenth faster than AM_BlackMax's VE auto in the 1/4mile. he had a faster r/t so he got the win, but my ET was better.

and learn your model/year combos.... VE is 92-94SE, not just 94.

the only time a/t is faster is in drag racing when you have alot of power (able to go faster than 14s in a 1/4mile), because it delivers the power more smoothly and multiplies the torque through the torque converter. otherwise m/t is faster 99% of the time.

 

Hey, Guys, We have a '90 GXE with 178K miles on it. The transmission has been slipping for a couple months now and we have checked the fluid and one the tests to no avail. I LOVE the old car, but, the hubby says it must go( Oh, it is red and we have all the original papers being the 3rd owners. What do u think that might be a fair price with a good body, a/c and 4 brandnew tires?? TKS for any help u can give!!

 

unfortunately, with a bad auto, the price is pretty negligable. I would estimate about $400 (US), if the tires are new. maybe $500 if the body is in real good condition. if you live up north, and it's semi-rusty, you may get more. if you live in the south, and it's semi rusty you will get less.

I spent $250 on an 89 SE, with a bad auto, nice body, great interior (minus some parts, on both). I almost picked up a 93 VE with a bad engine for $100, but didn't have the cash(%&!* the luck...).

 

Hey guys, just scored a leather wrapped auto shifter. It would've been installed, but I've ran into a problem. How the hell does the old one come out? I've skimmed through my FSM, but haven't found anything on the dissembling of the auto shifter.

*edit* Nevermind, figured it out after more trial and error, got the new leatherwrapped goodness installed.

 

I havent had my subwoofers running since early this year, i wired my 3rd gen in July last year and it was all good, bought a bigger sub later that year with my first amp being still used. Early this year, i bought a new amp, and when i installed it, no power. I tried wiring up my original amp that 100% worked before, and that wouldnt get power.

I never pulled any wires swapping and my connections are good, and everytime i messed around with the wires i swapped fuses on the amp. Could a fuse on the car itself be causing my amp not to power up? if so, which one?

 

sorry to change the subject on here but i wanted to know what is the torque specs needed for the exhaust manifold screws *the ones that hold the headers in the head*

and has anyone else had the problem of the dimmer not working? i checked the switch and thats not it

 

My 89 GXE would make noises around the front suspension while driving the car. At the beginning of August after changing the front strut, strut mounts, thrust bushings and end link bushings, the noise reduced but it would still come up. Looking around, I found out the nut that holds the left lower control arm and the gusset was not that tight, and the noise went away after tightening it. Now it is making noise again but I haven't checked if the nut has gotten loose again. But I am wondering where else I should look at?

 

I just bought a 1992 SE the other night and when I jacked it up to change the oil today, I noticed the previous owner had run over something and messed up the exhaust manifold and y pipe, some of the bolts are missing, some stuff is bent up, and I think at least one of the manifold studs is missing or broken off. I can definitely hear some exhaust leaks, and figured if I'm going to buy new stuff I may as well buy some headers and a decent y pipe. My question is...are there any good 50 state smog legal kits out there? Or anything I can do to keep it smog legal? Thanks

 

there are a couple of brands that make headers, Pacecetter being one. Avoid them, unless you don't mind hacking them up to make them fit. I don't remember who the other brand is, but I know nothing of their quality.

aside from that, there is warpspeed that makes a y-pipe to fit the original manifolds. if you have to replace it anyway, this is typically the recommended way to go.
If you have broken manifold studs, check your engine mounts before replacing them; if they are bad, you may be replacing your studs again.