brobar09

I have a 05 Maxima SL. Anyways, the transmission seems to slip I guess. It will jerk when intially getting put into gear, get stuck in between gears then jerk when it changes & just jerk in general whenever changing gears. It only really does this like in town. (not bad at all on interstate.)
Any ideas on what this could be?? Or has anyone had this problem before? My mechanic said it could possibly be some type of sensor?
I'm just trying to figure out what I might be looking at here, time and money wise. Thank you all and God Bless.

jbbons25

iTrader: (2)

It has been a while since I took out the axles so I didn't remember if the passenger side one had a ring or not. I checked the FSM to be sure, and yeah only the driver side has the ring. You should be fine.

jbbons25

iTrader: (2)

You're in the wrong section. This is the 3rd Generation section and you want the 6th.

But with regards to your issue, if you have the 5 speed, join the club....

http://forums.maxima.org/6th-generat...ssion-fix.html

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

stickshift cant slip, only automatics can. if youve got the 4AT those are notorious for issues

jbbons25

iTrader: (2)

6 gens have 4AT, 5AT and 6MT

swr

92 niss max gxe auto 3.0 VG30e

I have a 4 wire female plug that has been unhooked all this time while running fine ( the plug I am talking about is right above on the same wiring harness that the plug that plugs in back of your coil. so if you follow it from end a/c compressor then up to coil plug then this mystery 4 wire female plug ? it has 1 heavy blk/G color wire 1 blk/R wire 1 Blk/Y wire and 1 blk wire it looks like is a extra plug to something my car doesn't have or need because there is no other male part of a plug in site to be found that would connect to this and its run fine without it but just looked at it again and found it had melted and looked shorted may have been rubbing on belt I have since cut the plug off and taped up the wires secrely so not to cause a short . any body trace this for and see if it plugs into something on there car or if its just a spare for something.

my harness follows down from distributor plug ok , distributor ground wire ok , power transistor plug ok , this mystery 4 wire plug hanging ???? then back of coil plug ok then to a/c compressor ok

thanks Scott

Oscar_619

So my Temp gauge use to show how hot the eninge was water pump blew. Replaced now but started acting funny sometimes it shows the temp sometimes not. So I figure ill buy a new thermostat bought it tried to replace it but I swear the hulk must have tightened those bolts. Any soultions to take them off I used ocket wrench used W-40 and nothing also my coolat was a nasty brownish clor when I took the hose off the thermostat housing. Well now my tmp gauge doesn't even rise at all the old one its still in there. Sorry but the spelling p..s craqckberry I'm using.

jbbons25

iTrader: (2)

Looking at the FSM it's the connector for the resistor and condenser.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/24336f-...4-p-46098.html

Interesting that your car is running fine without it as it is part of the ignition.

swr

Thank you JBbons, where does this 4 terminal female plug go to ? must be next to distributor I cant find any male plugs any where that are available to plug to yes its funny how my car has been running fine without it for 3 yrs always had a 21 code ignition signal for the last 3 weeks have been having intermeintent hesitation/backfing issues till I fully accelerate then it kicks in at 3 k up

jbbons25

iTrader: (2)

It should plug directly to the part that is in the link I posted.

Well that should explain your code 21 issue. Get one from the local pick a part and plug it in.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

my temperature gauge was the same way, it would sometimes go down to cold and if you tapped the cluster it would go between H and C. it was just the gauge cluster itself

if youre getting heat still, it might not be the thermostat but i would still replace it. to get the bolts out, use a breaker bar. if the bolts dont budge with moderately hard force i would take it to a pro

brown coolant could be a bad situation, oil could be mixed into it

swr

Ok maybe the issue does anyone have this model does this plug just have a resistor/ condensor plugged into the end of it so it just stops not going to another connector

thanks so much mine is melted from rubbing on belt my fault and thought is was a female plug going to another harness connector with a male plug which is no where to be found

swr

Thanks JBBONS my plug is pretty much gone I will need to get a new female plug end for the resestor to plug into will try some junk yards

thanks again

Scott

Oscar_619

Thank you.

chriscruz777

I have a 94 Maxima. the windshield wipers will not move. it looks like the hinge that holds the rods together came apart. i tried snapping them back together, but it came apart after 1/2 a wipe. I’m thinking i may have to grease the socket so it will rotate without coming apart. any input would be greatly appreciated.

chaas

Parts search -

Anyone have a passenger side lower control arm?

We had an ice storm and I slid into a curb a little bit. Bent the control arm and strut, but I'll probably just pick up a new set of struts from Autozone or wherever.

Small update on the car, still runs great and I have no problems out of it other than the front turn signals not wanting to flash. Checked all the fuses and stuff, can't find the problem. Anyone have any idea on this?

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BALL-JOINT-C...item5648a12473

i bought this for the 3rd gen a couple years ago, a pair of control arms, tie rods, and ball joints for that price is pretty good

Rambosliice

Anyone know where to get a good cat back exhaust/ exhaust system for a 94 se 5spd

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

exhaust tubing, no resonator or muffler, great reviews
http://www.mandrelexhaustsystems.com...ima/Categories

complete cat-back, not sure on their product, but I can't imagine it being bad.
http://www.brmexhaust.com/89-94-nissan-maxima

Rambosliice

Hmm thanks man. What do you think my best bet would be to go with for the best sound and performance wise my buddy was telling me that the 95 cat backs would work. I was also looking at this today.

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?N=0&Nr=AND(wpn_tl_name:Engine+%26+Drivetrain,wpn_ cat_name:Exhaust+Systems+%26+Components,wpn_scat_n ame:Exhaust+Systems)&MobileOptOut=1&apwcid=mobile

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

link fail lol.

4th gen exhaust won't fit, at least, without modification (not sure how much, I presume alot).
both BRM and MES are mandrel bent. Sound will come from resonator and muffler choices (brand, model, etc.). Plus, "best sound" is purely aesthetic, and people will disagree (FE: honda bee cans sound good to quite a few retards).
For a stock engine (non-turbo/supercharged), a 2.25' will be the best performing.
for turbo, bigger is butter.

Rambosliice

Thanks for all the info man one more question lol was talkin with my buddy this morning about a motor swap in this car he was sayin that I'd be able to put a 240sx sr20 motor trans and rear on the maxi that even a possibility

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

you would have to move the gas tank to make room for the diff, move the exhaust to make room for the driveshaft, make a transmission tunnel, etc. only person to ever finish a FWD to RWD conversion was E-dog on a 2nd gen, that should be enough to tell it takes a crapload of fabrication lol

Jonrider

I have a 99 Max.I would like to see on with the black headlights that are selling on ebay.Also i ave a few mech questions.I dont know where I should post them please help...

chaas

That's not a bad price but I only need the one...probably just do the pick-a-part thing.

amdgoodez

Hi im new here. My name is David and I don't currently drive a Maxima but I came across one on craigslist and would like to know what you guys thought about it. It is a Manual 94 Maxima SE with 160k on the Clock. Here is the link, http://southjersey.craigslist.org/cto/2882890832.html. I am currently shopping for a car that is stick shift because I learned how to drive on a stick shift at the Age of 9 and since then I vowed my first car would be manual. I actually test drove the car this past Monday and it was very smooth all throughout the power band and compared to my parents Civic I am currently driving reversing her felt almost too smooth lol . The car is clean inside and out and I REALLY enjoyed driving and riding in her, my older sister who I taught how to drive stick when I was 13 and she 17 also really enjoyed the car which is just a +. I am posting this because you guys know so much more than I do about the 3rd Gen Max's so I was thinking you guys could give me any heads up if I do go ahead and buy it. The owner is asking 1700 but I got him down to accept 1500. If you guys could give me and insight into what to expect down the road, the current owner already told me that he does not know when or if the timing belt has been changed in the cars 160k mile career so that is probably step 1. Any responses are welcome.

-Thank You

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

looks good, only thing i can spot bodywise is that the spoiler is missing. other thing to check is if the VTC's are clacking which isnt a big problem or serious but 1500 seems alright

amdgoodez

So if the VTC's are clacking it doesn't cause any internal engine damage right? It's just a noise that can get really really annoying with time right? I do not recall from the Test Drive/Walkaround of the car if I heard the clacking.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

pretty much yeah just annoying

amdgoodez

That's very reassuring then because when I test drove it, the car felt as nimble as a cloud but with just the slightest tap of the accelerator it turned into a fierce cheetah lol. It was quite awesome, I typically also drive some 5 speed VW's with eh 1.8Turbo engine and its quite different how the power is distributed through out the powerbands of that 1.8 vs the 3.0 besides the fact its I4 vs V6.

jbbons25

iTrader: (2)

The engine on the 92-94 model year SEs are equipped with a timing chain (actually 3). No need to worry about it. Only the GXE and 89-91 SE models have the engine with a timing belt.

amdgoodez

A Japanese car with a Timing Chain? That's wonderful news. I'm a little low on the financials right now though because I had to spend the money on my home. Even if I don't snag this one I will have to own a 92-94 Maxima SE 5speed sometime in my life.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

lots of Japanese cars have chains, my truck and Supra do

Oscar_619

My car is a 1994 Maxima. So i have tried to recharge my A/C with the R134. It works then maybe like the next day the charge is gone. I've read that replacing the condenser and drier are the culprits to this. Can someone give me like the steps required from dis-malting to recharging etc. literally like explain it to a four yr in a way i just want to make sure I am understanding of everything needed to be done.

rudder9

I finished installing my new engine and so far so good.Except it's low speed driveability is lacking.There seem to be a hesitation in acceleration, almost boggy until 2500 then she takes off.I did re-use my upper from old engine so the tps is new,I had replaced it because of this condition.It is adjusted to .45 volts w/ key on.My plugs, wires, cap, rotor,fuel filter, plugs and all vacuum lines are new.What is with the idle control motor?Is this something that could be affecting this?I had cleaned it before my egine went and it was full of crap.I'm kind of at a loss.Also timing is set correctly.I also cleaned the upper really good while it was off.I cannot find any vacuum leaks either.I've sprayed and smoked for them.

rudder9

You can almost describe it's acceleration like it has a miss.I have seen the rpm's drop a couple hundred while trying to accelerate slowly.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

did you try cleaning the MAF?

rudder9

Yes, I did clean the MAF,no change, so I swapped the meter and IACV from the other engine and still no change.I'm kind of suspecting the fuel press. regulator.I'm going to put my gauge on the system in a few minutes.I'm running out of ideas.

rudder9

FP checked out fine.I'm going to check out my cat too.I did notice yesterday that my exhaust sounds a little diff.Maybe it has gotten clogged?Some of the max's symptoms are similar to that of a clogged/blocked cat.Car doesn't want to accelerate either.

jackson4300

Was hoping someone would be able to help me find the cause of a miss/hesitation.
At idle a slight miss can be heard mostly in the exhaust. When it is reved to about 4k it will jump to about 4.4k - 4.5k and sound smoother. When in drive, at about 1.2k it will drop back to 900-1k and being very rough until more throttle is given and then climb again. That is will the car is not moving, when the car is running the miss is noticable till about 3k revs and more so when under a bigger load (going up large hills).
So far I have ruled out, spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and button and the coil pack. I have a compression tester (just got it from ebay), would checking the compression be the next move?
I have had a quick look but couldnt find much on here this specific, but if there is could you point me in the right direction thanks.

It is an auto VG with 140,000 km (just hit it this afternoon) all stock