Poundcake

I finally replaced my vtc and tensioner on the back part of the engine. Now whenever I start my car up a rattling sound is coming from what seems like the back of the intake manifold. When I start the car, the rpms stay at 1000 and they go back down to around 700 rpm. Whenever it goes down, the clicking starts and continues. Can anyone give me any suggestions? Thanks

Laevateinn

iTrader: (3)

Do I need to use a ball joint/u-joint press to install a lower ball joint in a 93 SE/AT?

jbbons25

iTrader: (2)

Nope. It bolts to the lower control arm. Although you might need a ball joint removal fork to separate it from the knuckle if you are going to replace one.

dabeholder

where does this hose go? I can't figure it out for the life of me. I don't know what to search for either. http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/IMAG0076.jpg
http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/IMAG0077.jpg

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

^^^ Auto transmission breather.
goes to the transmission on one end, nothing on the other

dabeholder

Thanks.

Laevateinn

iTrader: (3)

This is a 93 SE

I just changed my engine coolant yesterday and I warmed it up. It was idle for ~3mins and the temp gauge is a little bit above half. I noticed that the fans weren't kicking in, so I drove for about 2 miles and came back. When I checked it again, they're still not turning. I'm not sure if it's not working or what. Should the fans turn on if the gauge is above half?

Maxkiller

Whilst engine is running, disconnect engine temperature sensor (rear plug on top of and near thermostat housing) fans should kick in immediately. If not, sensor is likely faulty although I would check fan relay before replacing.

dhughes214

Somebody Please Help!!! I was doing the 1/3, 1/3, 1/3 seafoam thing, and I read on my buddy's mustang forum that you can clean the throttle body by putting a few drops in the air intake. So while I'm messin with my interior, I ask my brother to put a few drops in the air intake for me. So he does it. I go to start the car, and nothing. Try again, and nothing. I look in the bottle, and he had dumped about half the bottle in there. I tried to remove the air intake and drain it, but it had already been sucked up. So now I'm guessing my motor is extremely flooded. How can I get it to start? I tried the pushing the gas pedal to the floor, as I heard that activated the "flood clear mode". And I still got nothing. I actually drained the battery all the way down trying to start it. It's on the charger right now. Anybody have any ideas?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

remove spark plugs and take a tube and syringe to suck the fluid out.. and pray.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

yep get the fluid out ASAP and hope your engine doesnt knock

dhughes214

Ok, so I didn't have a syringe or anything, so I just put a hose down there and sucked..... Now that you are finished, laughing/barfing, etc, (lol), there was actually no fluid in there. The hose didn't even come up damp on the bottom. So I'm guessing me cranking it so much got most of it through (I got a lot of white smoke when cranking). I think the reason it still won't start, is when I pulled the plugs out, they were blacker then flava flav dressed like johnny cash. I'm gonna get some new ones tomorrow. I'm leaving the spark plug holes open over night to let them air out, is that ok? Also, I heard the Bosch plugs suck should I stick with NGK?

dhughes214

Ok, just put in brand new NGK's and still nothin. Yesterday while trying to push start it, it backfired, and it blew a small hose off of it's connector on the back of the motor close to the rear spark plugs. Since the backfire, it hasn't even sounded close to starting, and it did come close before the backfire. Anybody know what could have happened?

dhughes214

Come on guys I'm havin' a panic attack right now. I can't afford to buy another vehicle, or afford to pay some mechanic 800 bucks to fix this one. Anybody got any ideas? Anything to help me narrow down the problem?

dhughes214

if anybody out there is following along, just for the halibut I just did a spark test, and I've got zero spark on all 6 plugs/wires. Any idea why I would lose spark on all 6 at the same time?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

see if you are getting spark from your coil.. the 7th wire on the distributor. unless you have a VE and don't have one in which case ignore this post.

see that's why people always need to put what your car is, in your sig, so we know what you have engine-wise..

anyhow, does your tachometer jump any when you are cranking the motor? or just sits there dead at 0? granted it's only gonna be going 300rpm when cranking but you should still be able to see it jump a little bit.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

ecu fuse good?

dhughes214

Hey thanks for the help. I actually already solved it. But capedcadaver was dead on! So I'm messin with my spark plug wires, and I see this one dangling, and I'm like wait I know I plugged them all back in. So I follow it up, and what do you know, it's the coil wire. I plug it in, and vroom, fires right up. About the VE/VGE I've been wondering myself which one I have. I DO have a distributor, so I must have a VGE am I correct? Also, can somebody post a picture of the brake booster so I can do the sea foam thing CORRECTLY! I have a 150,000 mile motor that was NOT taken care of by it's previous owner.

dhughes214

I've been posting a lot lately to try to get to 15 posts so I would be able to create my own thread and not look like such a noob, I guess the verdicts out on my "noobness" after my spark fiasco though! If anybody was following along trying to figure it out I apologize for wasting your time. I'm usually more thorough than that!

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

random Google pic of a brake booster, i dont like SeaFoam myself but we do it at work, half in the brake booster and half in the gas tank.








VG30E



VE30DE

dhughes214

Ok I definitely have a veegee! those VE's look sick.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

Don't worry much about the noobish-ness thing.
I've proven I'm a noob on multiple occasions
(no, homo.)

dhughes214

lol. Ok, researched some more, and decided to use the small hose on the back of the intake manifold that goes into the firewall. Lots of suction, worked good. This motor was hammered by it's previous owner. Oil was BLACK. Plugs and wires were garbage. BUT, the outside and inside was spotless. This is the cleanest 22 year old car I've ever seen. The inside literally looks like brand new. So I got it cheap, and have since put new wires, plugs, and distributor cap. It passed smog with flying colors so I'm assuming the injectors are ok. It does still shake a bit at idle when warm. And doesn't want to idle at all when I first start it up in the morning. I've found that right about half way between dead cold and normal operating temp it runs REALLY good. Possibly needs a coolant temp sensor? what do you guys think? by the way thanks to all who spend there time in the "noob" section. I really do appreciate it. I've never owned a max before, did have a 93 pathfinder for a few years. But once I get more acquainted with this thing I'll try to help out here too.

dudeweed

I have a VG30E I pulled out of a 91 maxima that I am installing in my 95 pathfinder. I need to change the oil filter stud on the block. I looked at the stud-oil filter at courtesyparts and it looks to be threaded on both ends. Is this the case? If so any tips to get the old one out of the block? It seems to be seated very well. Also with the new timing belt, I always seem to be about a half tooth off of the mark on the cover when lining up the pulley and cover marks.(drivers side) The crankshaft and passenger side pulleys line up correctly every time. Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated.

Laevateinn

iTrader: (3)

What is the muffler inlet size for a 93 SE? What will be the difference if you buy a universal or a direct fit?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

to get the smooth ended one off the maxima motor, use vice grips and get them as tight as you posibly can.

to get the double threaded stud onto the motor for pathfinder use, use 2 3/4"-16 nuts as a jam nut system. I went through the same ordeal putting a Maxima engine into my Z.

Dhunterx

iTrader: (6)

Hey guys, quick question. Ever noticed how when you get in your car, your map light stays on for a couple of seconds and slowly fades to off? Anyone have any idea how this is accomplished? I'm trying to do the same thing for another car.

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

should be 2.5". doesnt matter what muffler or if its universal or 3rd gen specific, if youre only going to do the muffler the place is just going to cut your current one on and weld on the new muffler, as long as the new muffler is 2.5" inlet it doesnt matter

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

yeah, there's a dimmer circuit in one of the light controls.
gimme a while, i'll find it.

couldn't find where the dome dimmer is, but found that hectic used a capacitor to work like it. (scroll down to post #10)
http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...-question.html

using a bigger cap, you should get the longer dim. as a reminder, LED's (unlike incandescents) shut off as soon as they lose power. you can plainly see that it doesn't in the vid.

Smithgsx

well, this is by far the handiest thread i've come across. of course, im a noob, and i have questions. props to the OP.

anywho. i just picked up a 93 maxima(idk the trim) but it has the VE30DE V6, auto. great little car, just wanting to work out the bugs.

i would assume my first trouble is the IACV and/or vacuum leak(s). idles between 900-1100 when cold, then drops to 700-900 when warm, but when i put it in drive, it drops to 500ish. when i push the gas, it sounds like its sucking in a lot of air, but in stead of sounding normal and smooth, it sounds and feels choppy while accelerating. has a slight smell of gas as well, but no leaks(no gas leaks anyways. it has a small exhaust leak)

second: VERY loud ticking from the engine. it sounds like a typical lifter tick, and it goes away once warm, but it still concerns me. anything i can do to make that better? (yes, oil is full, not sure what is in it, but its crystal clear, the previous owner was immaculate with this car. 215k and runs like a champ.)

any help is apprecitated, thanks.
Andrew

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

first: smelling fuel is a sign of running rich. I suspect a cracked coil, not firing right or at all. you can use a can of propane/mapp gas out of an unlit torch to find vacuum leaks easily: wave it around the engine, and find where the idle changes. that's where your vacuum leak will be hiding.
second: VTCs are a "common" problem with a VE. rebuild kits are extremely cheap, but labor intensive if you have to pay a shop to do it.
in the mean time, search for "vtc ground" here on the forum. it's a temporary fix, though.

Smithgsx

i managed to find the problem, one of my coils went bad, not firing at all. but, i seem to be having a REALLY hard time locating a front far right coil. but, ill find one sooner or later, havent checked junkyards yet. not wanting to buy new(yet), damn things are spendy.

as far as the VTC goes, what is that exactly? and where can i find a rebuild kit?

Larry D.

Hello All,
Yep....I'm new. Here's a little background about me and my new project.

I work as an estimator for an excavating company in Indianapolis, IN, I've been here for 15 years after spending 10 years in the U.S. Navy. I'm on my third marriage and have 3 grown children (1 of my own and 2 step-sons.)

I've rebuilt, refurbished and am happily riding two Suzuki GS series motorcycles. I have tools and am not afraid to turn a wrench, actually I rather enjoy it......So.....

The newest project is a '92 Maxima. It came to me via one of my step-sons. He bought it for $600 and drove it until it started overheating badly and quit running. He's since got another car and this one is getting ready to go "under the knife" in my garage. I've paid for some repairs to the tune of about $900 and refuse to pay a mechanic one more dime. It runs and drives, but, is leaking oil from the crankshaft seal, which is my first of many things that need to be done. I've decided to save it because...1) I've already got alot of money in it....2) It's straight and never been wrecked....3) Heck, I need something to do when I get home at night...it keeps me out of trouble.

I've been lurking here for a couple weeks and trying to learn all I can, but, of course, I'll still have questions. If there is anyone close to Indy, I sure could use an experienced set of eyes to stop by and give me some advise......Anyway, here's a couple pics.

Laevateinn

iTrader: (3)

I just installed the shifter insulator and I saw this. I think dips or bumps caused this thing in my front sway bar to deform. I've been searching nissanpartszone for a replacement but I don't know what is this called. Anyway, will this kind of deformation affect the body roll of my 93 SE?

gamer082

Long read! So recently my car has been acting up! back in august of 2010 my car all of a sudden started getting stuck in 2nd gear (auto). then when out of nowhere in December of 2010 the car started shifting fine 1st to 2nd to 3rd and so on. and at the time of it being stuck in second gear there were electrical problems as well lights would flicker when i would roll the windows down the dash would dim when i didn't go etc... So the car was fine for good 6 months no problems. Then a couple of days ago a big storm came and lots of rain fell that night. That same night i turned on the car was driving my friend home then i started smelling something burning! i ignored it thought it was outside smell went away then when i would accelerate the car would rock back n forth a lil bit. Then i got on the highway then randomly the temp gauge said the car was overheating even tho it wasn't car electrical problems begin again and the car is now stuck in a gear. My ? is what is going?

dhughes214

gamer, I'm guessing you already checked all the connections (battery, alternator, etc.)? If not I'd start there. Also, how did you KNOW it wasn't overheating? Usually if a temp gauge fails it falls or sits and doesn't move, if it did falsely show overheating then I would suspect the coolant temp sensor.

gamer082

I have not checked the alternator! that will prbly be the first step... IT wasn't overheating cuz the temp gauge would jump up and down when i would push the window to go down or switch the blinker on

Larry D.

Yes, it looks bound to me.

On Nissanpartszone, it's code #54614 or parts #614-85E10-Clamp Stabilizer.

Maxkiller

Sounds like a major earth issue. Dunno bout tranny problems but for the rest... Check the earth connection from the battery to where it connects to the body. If this is heavily corroded, it may need to be replaced.

davedurbon

i am looking in to selling my maxima may be some one here might want it?