ZacharyB

Oh, I agree. But only when the electrical connection is made before the grease is applied, keeping the circuit insulated. I have heard of that. But I haven't heard of putting dielectric grease directly over the electrical contacts before mating them. That sounds like it would insulate the contacts from each other.

I have done a quick search and discovered a product called carbon conductive grease for this express purpose. I'll have to see if I can get some.

Edit: Unless BenStoked meant to put dielectric grease around the connector lip. I'll try that if I can't find conductive grease easily.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

yes, it is non-conductive.
little more info on dilectric grease (in use)

http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum6/HTML/001202.html
as long as your connectors are cleaned up, and make good contact with each other, the grease won't be a problem.

94gxeMaxima

anyone?

hotrodder

Ok..how many posts do I need before I can post a new thread...I dont like tacking problem after problem in here and pushing other guys' problems down the list but hey here it is:

I could really use some advice on this guys and gals....I have a 1993 maxima GXE. Ran PERFECT until 2 weeks ago. Its got 155K miles and I just replaced the plugs, wires, distributor cap, distributor rotor, ignition coil, and have replaced the oil every 3000 miles with castrol syntec 5W-30. I always run 93 octane fuel. Here is the problem:

Intermittently it runs and idles as if its missing but there are no check engine lights on. I can go out and start it and its fine then Ill park it, get back in and bam runs like crap again. Im going to have the dealership check it out but all theyve said so far is injectors...at 600plus to change out. Is there anything I can check myself to see before taking it to them? It also has a new alternator in it. When it runs rough, I can hear a very faint almost electronic sounding grinding like a little electric motor thats struggling...cant tell if its the timing belt, a pulley whos bearings are going out, a fuel injector struggling, or what?? Any adivce...help..direction would be AWESOME.

Thanks

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

Where'd you get the sensor from? New or used? Try checking the resistance of the sensor (multimeter across the 2 pins) when it's cold vs hot to see if the sensor is functioning properly. also make sure your cooling system is properly bled so that coolant will actually be passing through the sensor housing. Often times air pockets can develop if the car is not properly bled (nose way way way way way way up in the air) after draining and refilling the coolant.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

first, 15 posts.
second, i agree, sounds like a bum injector. shows typical signs of a bad one. you might be lucky and just have corrosion on the terminal, but doubtful.
there are procedures to check the resistance on the injectors, here. There are also instructions, if you are willing to tackle the job yourself, and save a few hundred.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

fixed for clarity.

and for the record, as has been said a thousand times before, the CEL on the 3rd gen maxima is 99.9% useless.

94gxeMaxima

The sensor is new and its from a local auto parts store. I already bled the system with the back bumper a couple inches from the ground, and I'll check the resistance tomorrow. Thanks for the reply!

hotrodder

Yeah, I got that from here about the CEL...pretty frustrating since it leaves me with zero starting point. Anyway, I looked at the injector replacing thread and looked at the testing procedure so I planned on trying that as soon as I get some free time..maybe tomorrow afternoon so well see what comes up. I was just wondering if anyone had some other sensor or something causing it. I read thousands of posts about the same symptoms but all seem to be scattered as far as answers..never any follow up to say yeah, it was this or that.

Thanks for the input, Ill check the injectors first.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

back bumper? as in the front was raised so high that the back bumper almost touched the ground? just making sure. sometimes people say not to get sensors and crap from non-OEM sources (other than like o2 sensors cuz our OEM is bosch, which is what they sell at autozone anyways) so if the resistance doesn't spec out properly i would get a sensor from the dealer instead. shouldn't be THAT much i don't think.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

well that's not always the case, though for this particular situation it is, since you already know the problem is most likely an injector issue, which rarely throws a code.

But most of the time if you have a performance issue, the starting piont is checking the ECU for codes whether the CEL is on or not, as the ECU might have codes stored without lighting the CEL. For example my o2 sensor had a broken harness wire, but the CEL never came on. Fixed the wire, code went away, MPG went up 40%.

7mJoe

Hey guys. Just bought my brother's(nforce) Maxi. I can say I'm not having any problems with it, but I'd like to know(since this is noobie question thread) if there are any alternators other than stock that can be put in? Anything that puts out more amps? Like the MR2 alt on a 7M.

ZacharyB

Make sure to clean the terminals well, and on both ends. I spent $100 (and a few days' work) on a new injector I ended up not needing.

enzoedge

I am having a lot of trouble finding after market parts for my 07. i would like to find a carbon fiber hood, front lip ect............. also is there a classified part to this web site. i am totally new to this sight and having a maxima. Thank you for any help!

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

classifieds are below this section, and this is the 3rd gen section, you need the 6th gen section for a 07

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

the 3rd gen OE sensor is NTK not bosch.

schoolzin

Hi Guys, I need some help. My tranny is starting to slip between 2nd and 3rd gear and I'm not sure if there is anything that I can really do about it after reading some other posts. It is a '93 VE with only 117K on it and all of those were from my sweet mom who drives like a "sweet mom." If I drop the pan, clean it, and drain and fill (I know, don't flush it), will it make a difference or am I just wasting my time? Also, it doesn't slip continuously...after about 15 minutes of driving it is fine. Thanks for your opinions!
-Sean

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

change the fluid with a synthetic and it will probably clear up. I had a similar issue on one of my VEs and that is what I did (except the synthetic part).

93maxblue

Hey all I have a 93 gxe auto and am having some shifting issues. If the overdrive was turned on it will not shift just rev but i turn off the overdrive and it will shift. It still has some issues shifting though you have to let off the gas a little bit around 2 or 3 grand and it will shift, you really have to baby it. Wnated to know if the whole tranny might be bad or if it might be the tcu that is bad. I have read a lot of posts about transmissions on here and the talk about getting codes from it but dont know how to retrive them and no check engine light on. Just got done putting the motor and tranny back in had to replace all the freeze plugs on the block, one was leaking between the block and tranny.
Any info will help, thank you in advance.

9MXMA5

hey guys i have a 94 maxima i basically replaced everything on this car .. reason being was .. 2 injectors died on me, when i was at the freeway causing my motor to die on me .. plus the transmission decided to take a poop at me while the motor is dead.. so basically everything was new.. but ever since i got the motor and transmission replaced i get this weird hesitation problem.. under heavy load its smooth and nice, but under light acceleration.. i mean using my big toe to push the gas pedal it starts to hesitate .. my first hunch was a vacume leak.. but i cant find where the leaks at .. second was the EGR opens under very light load ( is that normal? ) lets say it bogs around 1500 and 2500 with me using my big toe to push the pedal...heres the video of what i mean
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gGvtGXLailg
just need if theres any suggestion on what else to check.. help is really apreciated! tnx

hotrodder

I know Im quotting myself..kinda weird haha

UPDATE: 4 of 6 of my injectors ohm out over spec...two of which are a little high and 2 of which are astronomically high.

So, I gues Im replacing them...sigh BTW stealership estimated 1800.00 to replace them F&*% that!

9MXMA5

yeah hot rod one thing i found out about those damn injectors are you cant use other injectors from same other year maxima like from 89-94 it has to match the color code either green or yellow.. high imp vs lowimp injectors... damn nissan!!!

chrome91

iTrader: (1)

dude what the ******* you can get a whole 3rd gen for that price, dont go to the dealership for them. find a garage who can do them if you cant do them yourself and dont get remanufactured because theyre usually crap.

hotrodder

I plan on doing them myself...but need to investigate whats available..the AdvancedAuto by me is the cheapest at 71.99 per injector but I assume they are crap. I cannot for the life of me find it again but someone on here posted that they sent their injectors in to get re-built. And the guy runs flow tests on them before and after so you can see they are fixed and working properly....that seems to me to be the way to go but I cannot Fing find the post again...anyone know what Im talking about??

9MXMA5

my friends old shop used to send them to witchhunter... it was online but thats the name where they send it .. name might be off.. but look for witchhunter injector it should pop up

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

our injectors die electrically. inside of the sealed injector is an electric coil that actuates the mechanism. only way to replace the electric coil inside the sealed injector is to destroy the injector.
so would you end up with a new case, with a new coil.
...but they don't do that.

hotrodder

I was wondering what was involved in the re-build which is why I wanted to find that post again. I assumed that a re-build was only for clogged or poor flowing injectors...not ones that were failing as discovered by the ohm test. But, I was wanting to give it a shot and find some info...

So, if the ohms are super high..thats an internal issue and the injector cannot just be re-built? Like I said, thas what I assumed but didnt want to jump to any conclusions if it could save me money and re-use stock injectors over crappy aftermarket ones.

Where can I get good injectors for a decent price?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

what year is yours?
there are assorted variables in finding the right injectors.
DO NOT USE REBUILTS PERIOD. these can not be rebuilt according to the numerous rebuilders I have talked to. They can be cleaned, flow matched etc.. But they typically fail electrically and once that happens they are scrap.

hotrodder

Thats what I thought but thanks for confirming.

I have a 93 GXE with I think the yellow marking injectors...what kind of price do you have for these?

schoolzin

Thanks for the reply. Anyone else think I still have hope too? Should I drop the pan while I'm at it or just drain and fill and see if the slipping improves?

jimbot18

does anyone know the right way to replace the camshaft positioning sensor. one a 93 nissan maxima se do you have to tork it down or do you have to have it alined or do you have to have the engine on top dead center or is it just as simple as bolting it on


thanks

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

$125 ea plus shipping. That price does include the o'rings and the insulator
yes

hotrodder

Wow, 750.00 total huh...I might hit you up or I might throw crappy 71.99 Autozoen ones in and dump the car.

I just cant see spending that kind of money on this car unless I go all out and fix everything it needs.

Thanks for the reply though.

ImAlive1459

Ok. I reconnected my CTS. Changed my TPS out. I have a V30GE(?) so it doesn't have the coilpacks. Plugs, wires, cap, and rotor are new. Problems remain. I disconnected my MAF sensor and the problems disappeared. Ran smooth as could be as long as I stayed under 2000RPM(I can't remember, but it was whatever the cutoff is for when the MAF is unplugged). I've tried another MAF that I found at Pull-A-Part, but to no avail. Any suggestions? Would it still run at over 3000RPM if my MAF was bad? I just hate to spend all of that money. If it is the MAF, I would gladly replace it. I just wish I could know. I'm just about broke as it is and I'm trying to pay for a wedding.

Help me please!

EDIT: I also show no error codes. I've just got chugging and it won't stay on long without dying.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

I can't see spending it either. Doing them one at a time I can see.

hotrodder

Yeah I wish it was just one going out but Ive got 4! and the other two arent far behind...sucks!

ImAlive1459

I fixed my problem! Well, at least temporarily! I applied about 2 inches of duct tape on the air filter side of my MAF and covered it about 1/3 of the way. Runs like a charm! I posted in the thread that I found the idea in. It's pretty old so you might have to dust it off before you look at it.

Augustus Maximus

iTrader: (6)

Didn't wanna start a thread fer this. Can an auto tranny from a DOHC work with a SOHC?

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

not easily.
wiring is different

jbbons25

iTrader: (2)

http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...smissions.html