*NOOBIES* The "I am new here,but have a question" thread..(post your questions here)
found this in a google image search and it was from page 100 or so of this thread
this is a steering wheel from a speed-sensitive steering(sonar suspension) maxima, i believe the OP had an 89 jdm model, which wouldnt of had the digidash but usually had sonar suspension
ran into this same thing trying to replace the steering wheel in mine
this is a steering wheel from a speed-sensitive steering(sonar suspension) maxima, i believe the OP had an 89 jdm model, which wouldnt of had the digidash but usually had sonar suspension
ran into this same thing trying to replace the steering wheel in mine
Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 217
NEED HELP AND ANSWERS PLEASE:Need a couple answer as well,i have a bad fuel pump on my 01 car is bone stock except berk intake i was thinking about getting walbro 255 fuel pump and also regular do you guys think its ok to go with high pressure fuel pump and i will be doing some mod's later not anytime soon also whats a good regulator?
NEED HELP AND ANSWERS PLEASE:Need a couple answer as well,i have a bad fuel pump on my 01 car is bone stock except berk intake i was thinking about getting walbro 255 fuel pump and also regular do you guys think its ok to go with high pressure fuel pump and i will be doing some mod's later not anytime soon also whats a good regulator?
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 8
From: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia
cap/rotor and ignition coil
cleaned the maf and replaced air filter with no noticable differnce, maf looked in good condition.
Checked the injectors with multimeter and all were within the acceptable range.
Compression check got me,
cylinder 1 - 180psi
cylinder 2 - 175psi
cylinder 3 - 150psi
cylinder 4 - 165psi
cylinder 5 - 175psi
cylinder 6 - 165psi
I was thinking there may be some carbon deposit or build up in cylinder 1 which gave the higher reading. Put some oil in cylinder 3 and did the check again but there was no increase.
Any input would be great thanks guys
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,205
From: Pretoria - South Africa
Was hoping someone would be able to help me find the cause of a miss/hesitation.
At idle a slight miss can be heard mostly in the exhaust. When it is reved to about 4k it will jump to about 4.4k - 4.5k and sound smoother. When in drive, at about 1.2k it will drop back to 900-1k and being very rough until more throttle is given and then climb again. That is will the car is not moving, when the car is running the miss is noticable till about 3k revs and more so when under a bigger load (going up large hills).
So far I have ruled out, spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and button and the coil pack. I have a compression tester (just got it from ebay), would checking the compression be the next move?
I have had a quick look but couldnt find much on here this specific, but if there is could you point me in the right direction thanks.
It is an auto VG with 140,000 km (just hit it this afternoon) all stock
At idle a slight miss can be heard mostly in the exhaust. When it is reved to about 4k it will jump to about 4.4k - 4.5k and sound smoother. When in drive, at about 1.2k it will drop back to 900-1k and being very rough until more throttle is given and then climb again. That is will the car is not moving, when the car is running the miss is noticable till about 3k revs and more so when under a bigger load (going up large hills).
So far I have ruled out, spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and button and the coil pack. I have a compression tester (just got it from ebay), would checking the compression be the next move?
I have had a quick look but couldnt find much on here this specific, but if there is could you point me in the right direction thanks.
It is an auto VG with 140,000 km (just hit it this afternoon) all stock
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1
ummm yeah i have a 91 maxima and when i tried to smogged it the other day, it didn't pass and the reason is because some air is leaking and causing the cylinders to heat up alot. what is causing it and how can i fix it?
vacuum leak, spray your vacuum hoses with soapy water and see where the leak is
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 1
Turn signal Flasher
The combination flasher unit everyone is looking for is mounted on the same support as, and in front of the silver metal ASCD control unit. This flasher is black, about 2" wide 3 1/2"tall & 1" thick Both units are found between the Centre consule (with the radio) & the steering column....not as indicated in Chilton's manual.
Next problem is finding a replacement....Nissan are out of stock and no longer have them made. Any Ideas ???? I need one too. The female plug on the bottom has 8 or 10 small wires colored red, pink, and black. They match up with the tail light plugs
Next problem is finding a replacement....Nissan are out of stock and no longer have them made. Any Ideas ???? I need one too. The female plug on the bottom has 8 or 10 small wires colored red, pink, and black. They match up with the tail light plugs
Last edited by woodside31; Apr 6, 2012 at 07:58 PM.
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 24
From: Norcross, GA
The combination flasher unit everyone is looking for is mounted on the same support as, and in front of the silver metal ASCD control unit. This flasher is black, about 2" wide 3 1/2"tall & 1" thick Both units are found between the Centre consule (with the radio) & the steering column....not as indicated in Chilton's manual.
Next problem is finding a replacement....Nissan are out of stock and no longer have them made. Any Ideas ???? I need one too. The female plug on the bottom has 8 or 10 small wires colored red, pink, and black. They match up with the tail light plugs
Next problem is finding a replacement....Nissan are out of stock and no longer have them made. Any Ideas ???? I need one too. The female plug on the bottom has 8 or 10 small wires colored red, pink, and black. They match up with the tail light plugs
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 5
Electrical issue with air control assembly
Hi all,
I've got a '94 maxima gxe SOHC and I've been having some issues diagnosing why my AC and heater won't work. I started by checking my compressor by jumping a wire across and I got cold air to blow. I then checked the switch on the drier and it also functions fine. Then I checked the relays and the fuses, so that led me to my control assembly.
So, I put a test light on my blower connector and saw that my hot was okay when the control was in the off position. When I turned it to the 1st speed, the light dimmed and continued to get dimer until it turned off at the 4th position. I figured it might have been the blower resistor burning out and drawing too much current, so I replaced that. After hooking everything back up, I'm still having the same electrical problem.
I'm in a new area and don't know of any reputable mechanics out here. Any help would be sincerely appreciated!
I've got a '94 maxima gxe SOHC and I've been having some issues diagnosing why my AC and heater won't work. I started by checking my compressor by jumping a wire across and I got cold air to blow. I then checked the switch on the drier and it also functions fine. Then I checked the relays and the fuses, so that led me to my control assembly.
So, I put a test light on my blower connector and saw that my hot was okay when the control was in the off position. When I turned it to the 1st speed, the light dimmed and continued to get dimer until it turned off at the 4th position. I figured it might have been the blower resistor burning out and drawing too much current, so I replaced that. After hooking everything back up, I'm still having the same electrical problem.
I'm in a new area and don't know of any reputable mechanics out here. Any help would be sincerely appreciated!
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 24
From: Norcross, GA
If you're using the test light to check the voltage on the wire going between the blower and the control module with the blower still hooked up, then the readings you're getting sound right. The blower gets its 12V directly from the fusebox, the control module just changes how the blower is grounded, so the voltage goes opposite from what you'd normally expect (grounded at highest setting, thus no reading on a test light).
Can you hear the blower operate when you turn the fan setting up? If no, the motor could be bad, if yes something might be wrong with the door that directs air to certain vents.
Can you hear the blower operate when you turn the fan setting up? If no, the motor could be bad, if yes something might be wrong with the door that directs air to certain vents.
Last edited by tweak; Apr 11, 2012 at 06:49 PM.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 5
Blower works just fine. I actually took it to a local mechanic and showed him, and he said it might be the thermistor. He said they can't do anything else until I replace that and make sure it's working.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 4
90 3.0
I have a very annoying issue with my car. The idling is extremely erratic, but not a miss. When i put it in park the rpms jump way up and bounce up and down until i put it into gear. Then when in gear it is still lingering around 1100 all the time. It is now drinking gas something to the tune of 4 or 5 mpg. Also when i give it gas, assuming i can get it to start without flooding out, there is a very obvious dead spot. Like giving it gas floods it out for a second. I had no problems out of it until a couple weeks ago when i found the battery had slid over and knocked the air box loose. it hasnt been the same since. I have replaced plugs and distributor cap, rotor button. I checked all the vacuums and nothing seems to be leaking. I understand it could be the mass sensor, but the engine light isnt on. I think it could also be the fuel pressure regulator, but im not sure where it is on this one. thanks for any help...
I have a very annoying issue with my car. The idling is extremely erratic, but not a miss. When i put it in park the rpms jump way up and bounce up and down until i put it into gear. Then when in gear it is still lingering around 1100 all the time. It is now drinking gas something to the tune of 4 or 5 mpg. Also when i give it gas, assuming i can get it to start without flooding out, there is a very obvious dead spot. Like giving it gas floods it out for a second. I had no problems out of it until a couple weeks ago when i found the battery had slid over and knocked the air box loose. it hasnt been the same since. I have replaced plugs and distributor cap, rotor button. I checked all the vacuums and nothing seems to be leaking. I understand it could be the mass sensor, but the engine light isnt on. I think it could also be the fuel pressure regulator, but im not sure where it is on this one. thanks for any help...
(just for S&G, make sure the MIL functions by turning the key to "ON" without starting. should light up for a few seconds, along with all the other warning lights)
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 4
I will certainly try to pull codes, I have a haynes guide to get me through, but it is very vague about that fuel pressure regulator. Any hints would help. Also, I would like some info on how to clean the maf sensor. I really dont want to buy a new one if i dont have to. Also, is there any other way to troubleshoot these two things.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 1
maxima
Fluff:
I just received one of my favorite cars as a gift. A shiny 1992 Maxima GXE. Sadly, it does have some problems. I've spent an hour or so trying to find an answer to one problem in the forums here. Then I spent two hours making a list of all the other things I found along the way that solved other problems. There's a huge wealth of knowledge here, and I'm very grateful. I also have a sizable list of things to order from the good folks at Courtesy Nissan, and my wife is going to let me buy them all.
Actual Problem:
However, my original problem remains unsolved. About 50% of the time, when I shift from neutral to drive, the transmission doesn't engage immediately. I can shift to 2 then back to D and it'll go, or I can wait about six seconds in D and it'll finally engage. The FSM doesn't have a diagnosis for this, and the only mention of this problem I could find in the whole internet is this site, provided solely for your entertainment. My mechanic wants $390 to replace the neutral safety switch. Since all articles here regarding that part deal with non-starting vehicles, I'm actually a little leery regarding his diagnosis. Also, I figure I can do that for $90. Any advice?
I just received one of my favorite cars as a gift. A shiny 1992 Maxima GXE. Sadly, it does have some problems. I've spent an hour or so trying to find an answer to one problem in the forums here. Then I spent two hours making a list of all the other things I found along the way that solved other problems. There's a huge wealth of knowledge here, and I'm very grateful. I also have a sizable list of things to order from the good folks at Courtesy Nissan, and my wife is going to let me buy them all.
Actual Problem:
However, my original problem remains unsolved. About 50% of the time, when I shift from neutral to drive, the transmission doesn't engage immediately. I can shift to 2 then back to D and it'll go, or I can wait about six seconds in D and it'll finally engage. The FSM doesn't have a diagnosis for this, and the only mention of this problem I could find in the whole internet is this site, provided solely for your entertainment. My mechanic wants $390 to replace the neutral safety switch. Since all articles here regarding that part deal with non-starting vehicles, I'm actually a little leery regarding his diagnosis. Also, I figure I can do that for $90. Any advice?
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 1
Alright so I just recently picked up a 91 Maxima, and recently I've had some issues with it starting up. When I go to turn on the engine, its coughs and tries to fire off, but no dice. Whenever I try and turn it on, the smell of gas is strong, so I'm guessing that the engine is flooding when I try to start it up. I know one of my fuel injectors are bad, the guy I bought it off of said that it had to replace it before the end of the year, and that he also replaced one earlier this year. Friend of mine is thinking that I have a gas leak, or possibly that my fuel pump is bad. I'm stumped. Any ideas?
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 23
Resonator length?
How's it going everybody am looking to get the brm catback for my 3rd gen maxima was wondering what would be a good length resonator to get with 2.5 piping or would it be better to just get rid of it in general thanks for the help! And one other thing what is the difference in the length of the resonator as well thank you!!
How's it going everybody am looking to get the brm catback for my 3rd gen maxima was wondering what would be a good length resonator to get with 2.5 piping or would it be better to just get rid of it in general thanks for the help! And one other thing what is the difference in the length of the resonator as well thank you!!
more-longer=more-better (imho).
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 23
Thanks a lot... One other thing my motor has 162 on it and it looks like it could use some major maitanance like overall tune up and what not was wondering if itd be easier just to buy a new motor and trans off of jdm and just swap them in.. I love my maxi but I feel like it needs too much work I'd hate to get rid of her
Thanks a lot... One other thing my motor has 162 on it and it looks like it could use some major maitanance like overall tune up and what not was wondering if itd be easier just to buy a new motor and trans off of jdm and just swap them in.. I love my maxi but I feel like it needs too much work I'd hate to get rid of her
mine has 276K on the odometer, and I bet it runs just as good as a "fresh jdm" motor (aside from that one dorky injector that likes to quit working for a few minutes every so often).
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 23
freshening up you motor will be way cheaper than freshening up a used motor, because you have the added cost of buying another motor.
mine has 276K on the odometer, and I bet it runs just as good as a "fresh jdm" motor (aside from that one dorky injector that likes to quit working for a few minutes every so often).
mine has 276K on the odometer, and I bet it runs just as good as a "fresh jdm" motor (aside from that one dorky injector that likes to quit working for a few minutes every so often).
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 2
From: Whittier
Hello, everyone. my father and i have recently been working on my '94 Maxima, replacing the fuel injectors, cleaning the intake manifold, and TBI, and swapping some hoses, because of a rough idle and poor mileage.
Well, when we attempted to run it, the car would start, idle rough, then stall.
We adjusted the distrubutor, because he removed it while cleaning up the engine, unfortunately he didnt note how it sat. anyways, we adjusted it, but we believe that we may be off a bit as we didnt use the "light" to fine tune the distributor..
the car idles pretty smooth, however, the car doesnt seem like it has much power, and it sounds a bit awkward. would the dist be the problem?
if not,any advice as to what it may be, and how to solve this problem?
thanks in advance
Well, when we attempted to run it, the car would start, idle rough, then stall.
We adjusted the distrubutor, because he removed it while cleaning up the engine, unfortunately he didnt note how it sat. anyways, we adjusted it, but we believe that we may be off a bit as we didnt use the "light" to fine tune the distributor..
the car idles pretty smooth, however, the car doesnt seem like it has much power, and it sounds a bit awkward. would the dist be the problem?
if not,any advice as to what it may be, and how to solve this problem?
thanks in advance
Hello, everyone. my father and i have recently been working on my '94 Maxima, replacing the fuel injectors, cleaning the intake manifold, and TBI, and swapping some hoses, because of a rough idle and poor mileage.
Well, when we attempted to run it, the car would start, idle rough, then stall.
We adjusted the distrubutor, because he removed it while cleaning up the engine, unfortunately he didnt note how it sat. anyways, we adjusted it, but we believe that we may be off a bit as we didnt use the "light" to fine tune the distributor..
the car idles pretty smooth, however, the car doesnt seem like it has much power, and it sounds a bit awkward. would the dist be the problem?
if not,any advice as to what it may be, and how to solve this problem?
thanks in advance
Well, when we attempted to run it, the car would start, idle rough, then stall.
We adjusted the distrubutor, because he removed it while cleaning up the engine, unfortunately he didnt note how it sat. anyways, we adjusted it, but we believe that we may be off a bit as we didnt use the "light" to fine tune the distributor..
the car idles pretty smooth, however, the car doesnt seem like it has much power, and it sounds a bit awkward. would the dist be the problem?
if not,any advice as to what it may be, and how to solve this problem?
thanks in advance
What kind of sound is it? Do you know where exactly the sound is coming from? I would check the exhaust manifolds for any leaks. The original exhaust studs were sub-par quality and are the common cause for loud exhaust and some weak performance.
I am rewiring my 3G with new, larger speaker wire. I would like it to start directly out of the factory radio harness. To do so I need the same (female) crimp connectors that are in the factory harness. Does anyone know the Name/Size/Type of pin Im looking for? None of my local stores carry them..
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 16
Trans options
Well I just put a new engine in a couple months ago and everything has been great.Until today.I was merging onto the hway and had a loud pop at 60.Trans is toast.Won't go into any gear.I had a feeling something was up w/ the way it shifted.always drives great but sometimes the trans was smooth other times the shift was more harsh.I'm not familiar with the auto slush boxes in these cars.So what's the best option?Thanks in advance guys.
Well I just put a new engine in a couple months ago and everything has been great.Until today.I was merging onto the hway and had a loud pop at 60.Trans is toast.Won't go into any gear.I had a feeling something was up w/ the way it shifted.always drives great but sometimes the trans was smooth other times the shift was more harsh.I'm not familiar with the auto slush boxes in these cars.So what's the best option?Thanks in advance guys.
(92-94 5-speed swap)
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 16
I'd love to.I actually have the whole swap in my shed.Problem is my wife can't drive stick.Not that it's her car, but if she needed a car she couldn't drive it.She won't even try.She won't drive my lightning either, she claims it scares her.I'm at a crossroad.I don't really want to spend a 1k plus on the car, not sure if I trust a boneyard trans, given the history about these automatics anyway, or buy another car.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 6
Hi oscar again so i did a oil change i went from sae to full synthetics for my baby well shes farting oil out? (oil is burning when coming out the exhaust) why is that happening? also my fuel lines under me have literally disintegrated and i see a vapor coming out of one of them. My car when coming to a brake idles rough. 158xxx and climbing. Is there any thing you guys could suggest to me to do? im kinda mechanically inclined. i just never have enough money to fix her till the end of each month. (im 17 yr works with my mom thats how i finance my stuff lol.) 94 Gxe nickname for car. *Swagger Wagon* And yes i know shes not a wagon 
Last edited by Oscar_619; Jun 5, 2012 at 07:49 PM.
Hi oscar again so i did a oil change i went from sae to full synthetics for my baby well shes farting oil out? (oil is burning when coming out the exhaust) why is that happening? also my fuel lines under me have literally disintegrated and i see a vapor coming out of one of them. My car when coming to a brake idles rough. 158xxx and climbing. Is there any thing you guys could suggest to me to do? im kinda mechanically inclined. i just never have enough money to fix her till the end of each month. (im 17 yr works with my mom thats how i finance my stuff lol.) 94 Gxe nickname for car. *Swagger Wagon* And yes i know shes not a wagon
fuel lines you just have to replace, rough idle is probably a vacuum leak somewhere
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 6
Last edited by Oscar_619; Jun 6, 2012 at 08:35 PM.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 7
Having some wiring trouble in my '93 Maxima. The other day I noticed that when I turned on the head lights the dash lights didn't come on. I checked some fuses but couldn't find a blown one. Then last night I noticed that I didn't have any tail lights. I found a blown brake light fuse and replaced it. Now the brake lights work when the pedal is depressed but no tail lights, even with the headlights on. The dash lights only activate when I push the brake pedal. Any ideas?
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,205
From: Pretoria - South Africa
Having some wiring trouble in my '93 Maxima. The other day I noticed that when I turned on the head lights the dash lights didn't come on. I checked some fuses but couldn't find a blown one. Then last night I noticed that I didn't have any tail lights. I found a blown brake light fuse and replaced it. Now the brake lights work when the pedal is depressed but no tail lights, even with the headlights on. The dash lights only activate when I push the brake pedal. Any ideas?