first thing i would try is cleaning the mass air flow sensor

 

Hello,
I have a 1990 maxima that was given to me, and it has a weird power window radio problem. Power windows do not roll down, but you can hear a clicking noise when you push the button on the driver side. So if I want to roll the window down from the driver side on the passenger side, i hear a clicking on the passenger side. This happens to all the doors. None of the power window buttons work on any of the doors, you just hear a clicking (and no it is not the sound from pushing the button, it is another sound). I am not sure what the problem could be.

On the radio portion, I just get no power to the radio (bose), or the clock. Odd thing is when I turn the head lights on, the radio illuminates, but still no clock. I checked the fuses for everything, and they are all good. I am really scratching my head as to what could be the problem. I appreciate any help that anyone could provide, or at least some advice.

One more thing, the odometer on the car does not work either, although the speedometer, tach, gas, and temp gauges work. The lights light up too, which includes the service lights.

Thanks

 

Hi guys, first time poster here. Recently I began my rebuild/repair job on my 3rd gen Maxima VG30 ( Fuel injectors, Valve cover gaskets, water pump, thermostat, timing and drive belts,intake manifold gaskets, PCV, and fuel pump etc.).
Though most of the issues have been fairly easy DIY stuff and cheap for parts - when it comes to the fuel injectors, I see a WIDE variety of prices on the web and local suppliers. (MN) After searching long and hard, I have seen REALLY cheap prices for the exact same injectors listed at twice the price elsewhere leaving me to wonder if that supplier isn't trustworthy or if their brands are crap.

For example, http://fuelinjectorconnection.com/ Lists them at 389.00 for a set of 6 http://fuelinjectorconnection.com/shop/ ... ductid=291
which I find rather hard to believe since other major sites list them at around 6-700.00 for the same set. Has anybody purchased from this company before?
Also, has anybody had experience with other brands such as:
http://www.python-injection.com/
http://www.beckarnley.com/

or are these parts trash thus the cheap price.
There seems to be no reviews regarding which company makes the best product for the buck.....seems all I hear discussed is Bosch.

Any input/reviews regarding these brands and suppliers would be greatly appreciated

Thx

 

Did anyone see this yet?

http://youtu.be/Ch3VoRXYkJM

http://youtu.be/qCM6ooJWlRQ

 

thats crazy. hes not the first to VE30 swap a Z though, a guy on here put a VE30 in a Z32 over a year ago

 

I am new so please bear with me.

I have 1990 Maxima SE and want to replace black leather drivers seat as it is torn. I have searched the posts and it looks like 300ZX seating will bolt onto 3rd gen frame, so that is an easy option.

Anyone know if other seating (the cushions) will bolt directly to the 3rd gen frame? I've seen posts on 4th gen, but they all say to re-weld the attach point, but nothing about just bolting the seating onto the old frame.

Ideally, I'd like to just bolt 350Z seating (the cushions) onto my 3rd gen frame.

 

not much else that will fit the frame as far as i know. you would have to get the seats custom welded to the brackets, i had that done on my 3rd gen

 

Yes, but this swap is insane!!!

 

Serious 3rd gen noob here I may be looking at one for my brother tomorrow. What should I lookout for?

 

if its a GXE, check the auto tranny fluid. the automatic tranny in GXE were actually made for low torque 4 cylinder engines, so with the torque of VG30E they go bad early sometimes. and if its a VG, see when the timing belt was done last

if its a 92-94 SE, check for VTC clack. doesnt hurt anything, but you can use it to joo down the price a bit and ground them afterwards to fix it

 

So I've got this problem...

I just replaced both axles on a 92 SE auto. The left axle was a real bear and took some effort to get in. Once I got it all back together, the car will go into gear but won't move at all. It will also grind if you try to put it in park, which leads me to believe something is broken on the axle end and I'm going to have to replace the ******* transmission now. I guess it's not all for nothing, since it does have 300k on it and there are several trannys available in the junk yard. FML

 

Hi, I have returned in order to try and solve a new problem with my car...

How do I take apart the Power/Comfort Automatic Transmission switch? I need to change the light bulbs inside so I can diagnose why I no longer have overdrive.

I try to unscrew the two flat-headed brown screws on the underside, but they just spin and spin after a certain point.

------------

Nevermind, I got it. Those brown screws WERE the bulbs. They had to be aligned in a certain direction, then they slot out.

 

Hello fellow Maxima enthusiasts!

Brand new here!

I bought a 90' maxima in white about 6 months ago. I have treated her like the babe she is. I have some questions/remarks and what not. My car the SE. Has 245,000 on her odometer. BUT she probably has a lot more, considering I have only gone 300 miles since march, says the odom. But I everything else is mighty fine in her.

Now to my questions. I have searched these forums a plenty. Most of you guys are way over my head mechanically. I have basic, like tires, oil change, lights are the only repairs I have done on my own. With that said in June I was cruising along at 70. I live in MT where two lane roads are 70. I had just finished a ball game and was dropping the GF off and smacked a deer. It smashed the passenger headlight bent the hood broke front blinker, and pushed radiator back. I ended up driving her home SLOWLY and a friend of a friend offered to help me repai her. They mostly told me what to do and how to do it. I did all the work myself. New headlight pushed radiator back in place, unkinked radiator hose.

So that's my car knowledge, my questions are, sometimes when I throw my brights on, my left headlight will go out. Then I'll turn it back to low beams, and wait a couple minutes, then throw brights back on and it worked again? Any thoughts on that?

Also about 3 weeks ago my GF got her maxima from her father and its in rough shape internally. But it's quite a bit quicker then mine. And sounds way more powerful. She asked her dad and he said he had modified the intake and added a cherry bomb instead of a catalytic converter? That's where I'm lost. Then I looked under her hood and her intake, instead of the long back square tube? It's really short and has like a red cone air filter maybe at the end? Her dad is saying he would do those things to my car for only 100$ in parts. Do you guys think, that it will make my max like hers?

Finally I always thought my maxima moved quick. Cause it's my first car and first car I learned manual on. But I have noticed my acceleration or power coming from my engine I guess ... It doesn't change much from half throttle to full on pressed back. Even at higher RPM's. is that normal? Cause I was used to driving my buddy's 2007 5.7L tundra which was a sweet truck.

Thanks for taking the time guys!

I'm going to drive mine till all the doors fall off.

 

There is a small nylon bushing-type piece in the power window actuator. These things are super prone to cracking ( as most 3rd gen owners have experienced) Plus side is, you probably dont have to replace the motors, just the little pulley assembly (30-50 bux). I've swapped out a couple and it's pretty easy to do

 

I love my 3rd Gen Max, but the cost is climbing, and the mechanics here on LI stink. Anyone who can help? Anyone know where to get a new engine wiring harness?

 

I posted on here over a year ago, lol pretty long absence. Life happens (=

I have a 92 Maxima, automatic with a DOHC 24 Valve.

Anyway, I recently had my Transmission rebuilt and it ran good for a while, but then the car started to act up on me. I can't drive it because it wont go over 30 mph. The RPMs rev and jump but wont go any higher than about 3000. Someone said it may be the Throttle Positioning Sensor but it's a $50 dollar part so I want to be sure. I heard the computer could tell me since the check engine light is on but I cant find the stupid thing! The book tells me it's either behind the glove box or in the middle console, but I cant fathom where. Thanks to anyone that reads and double thanks to anyone that answers! You all should get an award with the advice everyone gives here!

 

Does anybody in maxland got a 6 bolt flywheel they want to part with? I'm florida and about to start my tranny swap.

 

hello i have a 1992 Maxima mgx and the starter went out so i replaced that along with the battery. i checked to make sure i had voltage at the starter after installing went to crank the vehicle and i got nothing no clicking or trying to turn over. what could be the problem? any help would be really nice thank you

 

are all connections especially the ground tight? starter bolts tight? otherwise, check all of your fuses. maybe try starting it in neutral as well incase its coincidentally the 3rd gen shifter bushing problem

 

Maxima.org noobie here lol. 2nd time 3rd gen Max owner. I have a '91 SE 5sp. My car is loud, there was a few holes in the exhaust but I had it it welded and it was quiet for a while but after it got loud again I didn't see any leaks in the pipe and it sounded like it was coming from the engine bay, so my mechanic friend looked at it and dcovered that 2 studs from the exhaust manifold were bkroken off about halfways he also said 2 were completely missing. I feel like I lost a little power and I hear a ticking noise when I accelerate. This is the exhaust manifold by the radiator, a local muffler shop said it would easily be $500 to fix it because of the labor involved. My question is it worth it to pay or is there anything cheaper I could do to fix it by dyi? Any help is appreciated thanks guys.

 

depends if you think you can get the broken studs off, they can be a pain to get out. if you dont think you can do it yourself, a backyard mechanic can maybe do it for cheaper than $500

 

the trans has a problem, i can drive it, but it does not go into drive.... what im saying is when you put it in drive it will go through 1st and 2nd, but wont shift out of secounf, when it gets to the shift point out of 2nd it just revs... until you put it into 2nd manualy then it goes but stays in second. have no idea about these cars i know i tried switching o/d off, and the power/comfort swith, iv delt with bad auto tranny before and replaced many, but they have always just went, this one shift very smooth through 1st and 2nd... just wont go into drive gear, tranny fluid is fine, fresh, any ideas or someone had this experience with this same problem????

 

I am thinking of selling my 1992 SE, 200K miles. Engine runs great. No leaks, new battery, breaks have 10K miles on them and it just passed CA smog.

The driver's side mirror needs to be replaced (I have the replacement). What price should I list this on craigslist?

 

thanks for your help, any suggestions on what method of removal to try first? As in reverse drill, ez out etc?

 

Hey, I have a 92 se 5 speed, and while driving, the car will just die. In any gear, at any speed. It has over 200,000 on the clock, and so far I have seafoamed it, oil change, and replaced the fuel filter. after it dies, I can restart it. and it will go for a bit. The maf was replaced last June according to the previous owner, and I had reattached about four undone vacuum hoses. car runs stronger when cold as well. But it smells rich. I suspect an exhaust leak. Would this be a timing issue? I have heard that some Maximas have heatsoak problems, I have no cel, and need some good advice. I had an sr 20 engine that I messed with in the past, and sometimes the maf ground from the factory would go bad, and would need to be regrounded. Is this common for the 3rd gen Maximas with the VE as well? Thanks for looking.

 

Thanks Greeny for the opportunity.
I just bought a 93 Maxima. The Coolant Temperature gauge needle is dead, always pointing way below C.
Fuel gauge is incorrect. It pointed to E when I just bought it. After I put in 7 gal of fuel, it now points to a little below 1/4 mark.
Any diagnosis is greatly appreciated.
1. What could be wrong ? Please list the causes in the order of the most likely cause first.
2. Anyone has the diagram of all components involved in this problem ? or FSM ?
3. If the Coolant Temperature gauge is bad, can I replace it ? Or do I have to replace both gauges together ? Or worse yet, replace the whole cluster ?
4. My cluster has a black face. Can I replace it with a white faced ?
Thanks.
Noobie Cadet.

 

I've had the gauge and fuel meter give out bad readings on mine. I would start by checking the gauge.

If you have a multimeter and about an hour of your time, check the resistance of the temperature sensor and fuel tank meter going to the gauge. If they read correctly, then the gauge would be bad.

Info starts on page 45 on the PDF
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima/1994/el.pdf

If you don't have a voltmeter, then what I would do is replace the one prong temp sensor first. Assuming you have a GXE (you mentioned you have a black face gauges), follow the top radiator hose to the engine and at the end of the hose, the sensor facing the front of the car is the temperature sensor for the gauge. If that fixes the temperature gauge problem, then the fuel sending unit would also be bad. If that didn't fix the problem, then the gauge would be bad.

You could replace the fuel/temperature gauge by itself if you don't want to replace the entire cluster. You can switch to a white face gauge.

 

Thanks Jbbons25,
I do have a multimeter and my maxima is a GXE. I will try to digest all you the valuable info have given me and I will get back with progress report.
Cadet

 

Hi,
I'd liked to connect a solar panel charger to the battery of my 1993 Maxima GXE. The solar panel will be inside the car, on top of the back window panel preferably, or on top of the instrument panel on the passenger side.
I need access to the 2 terminals of the battery, +12V and GND , preferably inside the car, so I won't have to string the cable to far. I thought about the cigarette socket, but it is only connected to the battery when the ignition is on, I think.
I would appreciate any suggestions here, and any wiring info would be helpful.
I thought about the Digital Touch control unit, since it is somewhere under the dash board on the passenger side. Pin 1 is + 12V and pin 16 is GND from the wiring diagram. I am thinking about unplugging the connector to Digital Touch Entry control unit (therefore disabling it, I never use it and I don't even know that it works anyway) , and hook up pin 1 and 16 of the connector to the solar panel charger.
I also think about tapping it to the CLOCK connector. It seems to have both +12V and GND. Is that OK ?
Thanks.
Cadet

 

Hello, I am trying to qualify for my disability benefits and SSA wants to know the value of my car. First, I do not know how to determine whether or not it is a GXE or SE? It burns a little oil, the cv shaft/boot thingy needs replaced. The air con does not work, the transmission had $1900 worth of work done on it about 6 years ago, and it needs a tune up/adjustment for high altitude. Also, it sounds/smells like there is an exhaust issue and it is missing a sun visor on the driver's side. It needs a spare tire and wheel, wheel alignment, and the paint is pretty rough with some small dings and scratches. I would say it is in rough/moderate condition. It starts everyday, the heat works, it does well on snow, and the miles are probably over 180,000 not sure. I never look. Can someone please, please give me an estimate? Kelly and all others online cannot tell me because of it's age. I could take it to a local dealership, but I'm hoping that is my last resort due to low money for gas, cold weather, and of course, my disability. Thank You in advance.

 

^^ to you a Nissan is priceless, but tell the "man" $1,200 and I doubt they will ask twice.

My '97 with almost 180k only goes for around 2k in kbb.

 

Thank you Fakie, I appreciate your answer. If only an Official Dealer could help me out here... with an answer that I can actually show to the SSA, and your contact info. Asking too much?

 

I am here in San Diego, CA. I just bought a 1993 Maxima that semms to be in better conditions than your 1988 (sorry), from craiglist for $1,000. Just tell them your is worth $800.
cadet

 

I have a 1991 Maxima SE, 5 speed, VG30 engine, ~150k miles.

Recently the car was missing and (at least one) injector went out. I took it to a shop and they said two were bad, and that because the others were so old, I should go ahead and replace all 6 injectors. So ok, I know there are issues with them on these cars so that makes sense while they've got it apart so we said ok and paid them after it was done. So we were supposed to have 6 new ones in there. The other day I got to looking around the engine (because it started missing again), and noticed that the front three injectors had nice new-looking pink plastic tops with where the electrical connectors plug in, and the back three looked old and yellowish and had lots of corrosion on the contacts. I took it back to the shop, and they said that "some of the re-manufactured injectors come without the plastic caps, and you have to reuse the old ones," so "the front three were the ones that came with the new caps on them," and the back three were my old caps/connectors, which "had been put on the brand new injectors." I had them pull it apart and show me the rear "new" injectors and they were covered in black junk--which they assured me was "normal," even after only the 500 or so miles that I have driven it since they were changed. I have an old injector from this car (one of the ones they showed me when telling me I needed them replaced) and it looks to me like the plastic cap cannot come off without breaking it (it is already broken), and even if you could get it off, the two wires going into it from the connector seem to prevent it from being "re-used."

Now I do some basic to intermediate mechanicking (tune up, brakes, axle replacement, etc.), but I steer clear of stuff as involved as this usually.
So I would like to know, is there any possibility of injectors coming without the plastic tops, and having to have the old tops be re-used on them, or is this shop trying to give me the business?

 

1) all remanufactured injectors for our cars are pure garbage. They fail electrically (often it's degradation of the copper wire coil due to the 10% ethanol now mandated in fuel), not mechanically, and rebuilding injectors will not make them work better.
2) no pics, no care
3) if you are talking about the plastic caps at the top of the injector, I'm not aware of those being swappable without special machinery. The FSM certainly doesn't cover that.
4) how much did you pay per injector?

 

SE: Black trim on taillights and windows. Body-color grille. Fog lights in bumper (often missing though). White gauges w/ black letters. Bose standard. Plain door handles. Black door mirrors. Spoiler. Wheels look like saw-blades.
GXE: Chrome trim on taillights, grille, and windows. Body-color door mirrors. Plain speakers (might say Active Sound System or something like that). Black gauges with white lettering. Wheels have u-shaped cutouts. Door handles have keypads.

 

I don't think they were remans---I am 99% sure they were my old injectors.

I'm sorry-don't understand your #2 "no pics, no care" ???

Yes I'm talking about the plastic on top, the part you can see by just lifting the hood of the car and looking, the part where the connector plugs in. The pink part. That's the part they told me "just pops off."

I paid about $600 for the six of them, plus labor.

The three new ones in the front look like this:

The three in the back that were supposedly "new remans" had black where this one has blue, the pink top was so faded and dirty and it looked more yellow/brown than pink, and the whole thing around the screen and nozzle was _covered_ in junk and gunk when they took it out of the fuel rail.
I ended up pretty much forcing them to put new ones in the back three, so I'm good now (and that fixed the miss of course), but I wanted to know if there was a chance that they were telling me the truth and that the three in the back were really replaced, or if they were just trying to make an excuse for trying to cheat me out of $300 for the back three.

 

by "no pics no care" i meant "show me pictures so i can see if what i'm thinking matches what you see". It's internet speak, i guess.

anyways, sounds like they tried to pull a fast one on you, and never replaced your rear injectors to begin with. I've never heard of successful removal of the cap without completely destroying the injector (i've seen the aftermath of a badly failed attempt).

Certainly reman injectors wouldn't be covered in junk - they would AT LEAST make them look cosmetically nice, hot-tank them or something to remove dirt and debris, and would not have corroded connectors etc.

Real brand-new OEM Bosch injectors are usually $100-140 each, depending on your skills at deal-hunting. For future reference, new or lightly-used from a trusted member, is the only way to go when it comes to injectors. Remans can't be trusted because of how they fail.

 

Ok well that pretty much answers my question. I believe that these injectors (the new ones that is) are GP/Sorensen from Autozone.
Thanks for your responses---I really appreciate it!

 

Bosch fuel injectors are expensive. Can we use OEM part like what I saw on Ebay from True Blue Auto Parts for $35 each ? Thanks.
Cadet