when i start up my car sometimes the starter grinds like you turned it too long or when its started and you turn it
the starter was replaced in place of the original one last year so i dont know whats really the problem? can it be a bad relay or something?

 

The starter pinion is not retracting, its bad. Not a big deal, but replace or repair if the noise bothers you. I couldnt stand it.

Do you have a warranty on this one from having just replaced it recently?

 

nah no warranty and its past a year which the mechanic would not hassel wit me but is there any way to get rid of it or u have to replace it

 

I dont know of any way to make it function correctly other than having it rebuilt or replaced.

 

It can also be caused by a bad starter ring gear, but the best place to start is the pinion. While it's out look at the ring gear to determine it's shape.

 

thanks alot ppl
one more question
is there bushings in the front that can be replaced like the rear links?
i want a better n more quiet ride.

 

first i'd like to say hello to all..now for my question..i just bought a 94 maxima and the radio didn't work so i went and purchased a new one i've connected everything but the antenna(power) i can't find it however there is a wire with 2 prongs on it that i now nothing about is this the antenna?..if so the radio i bought only hast 1 prong connection and a blue wire to connect to the power..i need advice that can help thanks

 

yup. thats the antennna. you will have to buy an adapter to make the nissan antenna fit the head unit.

 

Yes, there are several brands of bushings that can be installed, have a look at these:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=260009
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=210034
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=382030

 

thanks i hada feeling it might be but wasn't sure.. by any chane do u know where i could buy an adaptor or should i just buy a new power antenna ..i saw an aftermarket for 40 bucks..thanks stoked

 

$10 an adapter at most places that sell car stereos

 

where is the anti-theft module so i can unplug it

 

something tells me its not that easy...

 

due to security reasons, we aren't supposed to just say where it is.
you'd be surprised. if you do a search for alarm issues, most of them are solved by just simply unhooking the oem box.

 

that is sarcasm right? or do you mean that someone could look on this website and learn how to steal a Maxima by knowing where the box is?

 

i highly doubt it is sarcasm

 

the only thing i ever knew "not to say on the org" was where to get an FSM...

 

thats just what i want to do by unplugging the box, steal 17 year old cars, thats it yea...

 

that's why i assumed he was kidding when he said "i can't tell you for security reasons"

 

people still steal these cars and yes that box will stop a thief in some cases.
we do not say where it is because of that.
you can spend some time searching here and the answer is on here.
or you can PM someone who may know and they may tell you.

 

I looking for your thoughts on an idea of mine. I already have a K&N stock replacement filter in my airbox. My idea is to pull out the stock pipe going from the airbox to just behind the headlight and put in a proper pipe(similar to CAI pipe) in from the airbox to just below the headlight. The stock pipe seems so restrictive.

What do you people think?

 

waste IMO. just how much air do you think your motor really needs?

 

'92 GXE Auto-Problem began with RF (passenger side) headlight (lowbeam only out, both worked on high beam). Replaced bulb, still no light. Noticed faint electrical burning type smell in the interior while driving, then soon after got pulled over by the man for NO lights (at this point I noticed dash lights out too - and yes the switch was ON). I had just checked a few minutes before pulling out of the parking lot and the only one out was RF Headlight. After the time it took for the ticket to be written, I restarted, switched lights back on and they all worked again, with only RF out still. Within 2 blocks I only had (and still have) both high beams, brake lights, rear turn signals, and reverse lights functioning. Now it has extended to one of the reverse lights. I read as many posts as I could find, and started with removing and cleaning up the switch. I have checked all of the bulbs (OK), and sockets are all clean...fuses appear to be ok...NOW WHAT? know any good electricians for this type of thing in KCMO? ps only other elec. problem is a couple of the windows, have the parts, but don't know if it's worth the time/trouble or could be related.....this has gone way beyond my patience and capability.

 

sounds to me like you headlight switch is/has failing/failed.

 

I just installed a new air filter yesterday (Spectre Performance PowerAdder P4). Well....pretty sure it messed the MAF up seeing as when I woke up today the check engine light is on and it runs rough below 4000rpm. I've read up on how to clean a MAF but I wanted to check back here and make sure there isn't anything else about the maxima that would have caused this or if our MAFs require any special treatment. I also wonder if there is any way to prevent this besides reinstalling the boring air box. I really like what it did for my performance yesterday and it sounds great so I really don't want to take it out for any more than a little cleaning or whatever.

 

yes my name is julio. I just bought a 92 maxima se 5 speed from a friend that had it in the impound cause he got arrested. only paid 250. bucks for it. I mean man the car looks sick. but the only problem that i have is that it had a bad wheel bearing on the drivers side and i can't seem to find it anywhere's. if theirs anybody that can help me find one i'd greatly appreciate. thanks

 

what temp would the valve cover be reaching?
because im going to paint it
is there a perffered type?
any suggestions

 

--> http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasit...4-p-48564.html

 

Just regular krylon rattle can will be fine for the valve cover.

 

ok thanks

 

thanks.....i'll check around for one.

 

1 of 2 things I can think of. 1, it could be the filter is too heavily oiled and that coated the MAF's wire and causing it to read wrong. 2, you have a hole somewhere that isn't completely sealed and it's causing a vacuum leak.

 

http://www.internetautosupply.com/ca...6_47_1440.html

 

i cleaned out the throttle body yesterday and im idling at 1,000 rpm
i would like to adjust it n i cant find the screw...
a pic would be nice (dont want to waste gas durring this gas hike)
also i have sealed off the intake resonator

another is that my cabin blower/fan r not blowing at any speed
i have checked the fuses under the dash n they were fine
any other fuses in the engine bay to look for?

(VE)

 

the adjuster is not on the TB itself, rather on the IACV. i don't have a VE so i don't know exactly where it is on one.. but that's where you adjust idle from.

basically turn the iacv off or unplug it, put the car in park/neutral, set idle when warm, then turn the iacv back on.

 

do i keep the engine running when i adj it?

by the way its only idles high on P its normal on D

 

yeah the engine has to be running otherwise it's hit-and-miss-and-drain-your-battery-starting-it-eleventy-million-times-every-time-you-adjust-it

leave it on and turn the screw slowly until it idles like you want


also put the car in N while sitting in it and move the shifter SLOWLY to D but try and hang it between N and D.. does the idle speed up while it's in between and then go normal once totally in D? that's the cheapo test of the inhibitor switch.

 

any suggestions on this?

 

Bad blower motor?

disconnect the plug to the motor, check for power via multimeter.
If no power, then you have wiring issues, if power to wiring, then replace the blower motor.

 

well it was working perfectly yesterday