Over the last two days the tuner has not been able to get any reception. I hear a clicking sound coming from the dash every time I switch from the cd to radio or tape to radio. I am now curious if there is some type of relay or switch in the dash that controls the antenna that could be bad.

Any thoughts would be very much appreciated.

 

yes there is an antenna relay.
but beyond that no suggestions.
I'm not a fan of hacking a car together just to sell it

 

Thanks for informing me of the antenna relay. Do you know if this relay is located in dash on the drivers side? This is where the clicking sound comes from.

I agree and am not a fan of hacking a car just for a sale. I am planning to sell the car and would like to make any needed reapairs before listing it for sale. You never know who might buy the car so it likely does not make sense to start a total retrofit of the audio system if it is not needed.

I am open to any and all input so please let me know if I am off base by trying to fix this relay if it could be a bigger problem.

Thanks.

 

I can't find a reference (in the 94 fsm) to an antenna relay.
the closest i can find is the power antenna timer.

its located on the power antenna, as far as i have found.
mebe stick your head under the dash while somebody switches cd/fm so you can pinpoint the clicking.
you don't mention whether its bose, or not, but i see only one relay in the bose system(none on the other)for the speaker amps(located behind the driver's kick pannel? like wiking says, confusean, or im a blondie)

 

I have a 1994 maxima and i was wondering what the easiest way to tint my windows. what should the average cost be if i get it done at the shop.

 

Thanks for your input and the system is a Bose. Anytime I switch to the tuner mode the radio shows the "FM" signal for just a second and it imediatly disappears, and since it sometimes will work for just a few minutes makes me think there is a chance that it is not the radio.

Fortunatly, I found out that I have another Bose radio from a 93' Maxima at my parents house and I am going to pick it up this weekend to see if switching the radio fixes the problem. If so that that is good but the replacement radio does not have a cd player which is not likely to be a good thing for who ever may buy the car. At least the radio in it has a cd player that works....

Thanks and I will let you know if the other radio fixes the problem.

 

About $150...Ball park figure.

 

what i would do is get some glass that you have laying around with no use. and just practice on it. google some instructions on how to tint, and when youre ready, do it yourself, and save $$$$$.

Greeny's Estimate: Approx $150
MY Estimate: Approx $20

 

Read much?

 

i was explaining what i would do, since you gave a SHOP estimate.

not saying you are wrong, because you are not. i found out that a similar way when i wanted the windows on my old se-r done. close to $100, since i live in jersey, nd you cant legally tint the front windshields.

 

Will stock 07 Murano 18" rims fit on my 91 SE?

 

Yes sir, they will.

 

With all the aggravation involved in tinting windows(been there, done that) It is worth the extra money IMHO to have a professional do the deed for me. Tinting windows is close an art form, the average person usually ends up with a mess instead of nicely tinted windows.

 

I would have to agree with Greeny. When i did my new yorker it look like crap like 2 months after i did it. My SE was done by a pro back in 2000 and they still look perfect.

 

I personally havent done it, but I know a few DIYers who swear they won't ever do it again("let the #$@$ing shops do it, its worth the money," as my brother phrased it a few weeks ago). I need new tint in my car, and with the rear window, there is no way that I could do the rear window even 1/4th as good as it is now(and it needs a desperate fixing)
reason: most rolls of tint ive seen are, what 20"? the rear window is roughly 30" tall(guessing)? there has to be a seam somewhere... most diy jobs ive seen a couple of years later are falling apart, seams peeling, bubbling, etc.

synopsis: sometimes it's better to admit something is over your head, and pay a pro.

 

well we all have our opinions. i'd rather do it myself because im pretty good at it.

 

Hi, i´m beto alvidrez, from Chihuahua Mex. I have a maxima 92, 5spd, i´d like to learn more about these cars. Is any one speaking spanish here?

 

looking at your pic and looking at your year... either you have a GXE w/ a spoiler and a 5spd swap or you actually have a VE30DE (all 92-94SE were VE, all gxes are VG)

yo sé hablar de cosas generales, pero no sé todas las palabras técnicas sobre carros... por ejemplo no sé la palabra para "clutch".. pero yo sí sé decir "frenos"... Había un Colombiano "ColombianMax" quien es completamente fluente en español pero se enojó con un otro miembro y no ha visitado Maxima.Org en 6 semanas, ni queiere regresar. Pero tal vez si usas "AIM" puedes hablar con él en aquella manera.

 

I have a Automatic 94 SE that has problems starting when the engine has been off for a while. When I try to start the car the engine will start and the RPMs will go from ~1200 down to zero in about a second. However, if I apply a bit of gas before the engine turns off I can get the car running. Sometimes when I apply the gas, the car starts normally (idles from 1400k down to about 700rpm when warmed up), while other times it'll keep running but the revs fluctuate between 400-500 RPM until the engine automatically picks the revs back up to 1400. When the revs are low and I continue to apply gas for 10 seconds or so, it'll idle normally after releasing the gas pedal. When fully warmed up the car runs perfectly, and if the car is started within 2 hours of being fully warmed it, the engine will start just fine. Anybody have any suggestions or ideas as to what may be causing this problem?

 

do this stuff first http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...4&postcount=18 then tell us what code you get. the video won't totally apply to you, since your 94SE is a VE engnie, which has a slightly different procedure. Greeny outlines this procedure in the "2-mode" part

edit: i just did this procedure on my 5-mode GXE... came back as a 13, which means i have a bad engine coolant temp sensor. and i've got a similar problem to you just not as severe.

 

I just ran the test and came back with code 34 which is for the Detonation (Knock) Sensor. I'm not sure if this means the sensor is broken or if it's detecting knocking, however, the car has been receiving premium gas except for about 3 weeks in Februrary. Hopefully this information will help to determine the original problem.

 

anyone know where i can find side view mirrors with blinkers on them or how to mod mine?

 

riceoutmymaxima.com

 

Yea you live in middle, tn too people cant drive out here. i only drove my max for 2 days and i three people in trucks said they didnt see my turn signal when they all most hit me.
Hit my baby will ya! lol

 

It's hard to see with your head in your ***, so i've heard.

 

to their credit the signal is impossible to see from the side unless you do the Craig Brace rewire. it's out of sight once your eyes are past the tail of the car, until the car is in your rearview again. and the idea of the mirror blinkers has actually stood out to me more than any other kind of blinker, as long as it's amber. red is for brakes, stop signs, and stoplights. not turns.

just get an LED strip and remove your mirror glass, and tape the LEDs up in the housing on the edge of the mirror or something like that. it might work.

 

Blah, i've never had any problem seeing anyones signals/brakelights at anytime in my life, because i PAY ATTENTION to the road and surrounding conditions, the only reason someone crashes into you while you are trying to turn is because they were not paying attention, not because they "didn't see" your signal/brakes lights.....

 

not to mention, if you want to switch lanes, or whatever, usually, you wait til there is a clear enough spot to move. (when there is a gap between the car in the front and back, where people can SEE THE BLINKERS!!!)
I have never had a problem with my un-modded signals.(ignorant drivers, hell yes, but not because they couldn't see my signals.)

btw, wayne, your link is great. best rice content ive seen in a minute(and ive been on the internet for about an hour)

 

i had someoen hit me b/c they changed lanes at the exact time as me but i was still speeding up. 3 lanes my way and i went from the right (backed up), to the middle (still speeding up), to the left (was clear as glass) but the person was catching up on me fast in the middle lane and stayed right behind me as we both changed lanes... i couldn't see her b/c i was looking out my side, not behind me, and she ran up on me and hit me. then left. then said it was my fault. hmm maybe she should try NOT goind 50 in a 35.

 

I wouldn't have minded having mirrors with blinkers built in.
it makes things safer and is nowhere near rice. it is completely functional, and a good idea.

 

not pointing fingers, but i did mention something about ignorant drivers...
(i am "only" 24, but i am still learning to drive. I almost challenged a semi to a lane @70mph... decided i'd lose.)

 

yeah.. I'm freshly 20 and my main issue is that i tend to let the car drift in the direction of my intended lane change before my head is all the way turned to that direction. primarily on left-hand changes. i think it's because my thumb is still gripping the wheel a bit when i flick the signal stalk, which in turn causes the wheel to turn a little bit (subconscious i suppose). That and i'm paranoid when it comes to yielding, esp right on red and left from a sidestreet (stop sign) onto a main street. i just can't wait until my clutch is all done.... then i'll finally be able to learn my car's shift rhythm. that should help my driving a bit.

oh and that driver that hit me... MY insurance paid HER $750. that's because i hadn't put 2 and 2 together yet, to figure out that she is either fantastically stupid, or did it all on purpose (saw an opportunity to make it LOOK like she was a victim. and she claimed injury/hospitalization for a wreck that didn't even leave so much as a dent OR scratch on my car. i bet she pulled away, found a way to dent her bumper more severely, then came back.)

 

just randomly grabbing an example, but these do not replace the mirrors. they are 3m taped or something to the stock mirrors.
should do the job, and i think they have something similar at autozone.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BLUE-...spagenameZWDVW


as a concession, they also help if you forget to turn them off. its so annoying, following somebody for 10 miles with their signal flashing...

 

except that blue is illegal.......

 

those are ugly (big reason why I won't use them)our van starts dinging at us when they are on for over 5 minutes or so.

 

you can get them in amber. like i said, just a random example.

 

i don't get how come AZ can get away with selling stuff labelled as "DOT approved" when they know DAMN WELL it isn't. blue-tinted headlight bulbs aren't legal (Coolblues, hyperwhites... possibly even silverstars) b/c blue is the least represented color in a normal halogen bulb... therefore, filtering everything BUT blue drastically reduces the brightness. that's why i switched from Silverstar Ultras to Xtravisions and noticed great improvement. it's just like having sunglasses on.

 

My 93 Maxima is acting up. It all started at the beginning of this year. Started up my car one day, and everything went crazy. Fan went on and off, radio turned on and off and my gagues were bouncing all over the place. It quit after a while, and I assumed all was fine.

Few weeks later I noticed that after about a half hor drive, my temp guage was all the way up to the H mark. I assumed that my car was overheating, but after a while I noticed that using the brakes, turning on the headlights or using the signals would cause the temperature guage to go up and down.

Cruising down the highway I noticed that my car would not shift into overdrive. And at the same time, I noticed that my car would sometimes start out in 3rd gear, and putting it in 1 or 2 makes no difference.

Brought it in to the dealership and they said that the error codes came up speed sensor and revolution sensor. They replaced the speed sensor, and I replaced the revolution sensor my self and it's still acting up.

And suggestions on what could be wrong? Any help would be appreciated.

(Sorry for the long rant. Beginner wanting to learn something about his car.)

 

sounds like you have some Kentucky Fried Wire. some wire, somewhere (or several) seem to have melted their rubber casings and started touching other wires, causing 'electrical pollution' of sorts. of course it could just be an inordinate amount of failed sensors too... but i'm betting it's electrical

 

Thank you for your quick reply.

I had a hunch that it might be electrical related. I do have access to a multimeter, so I could theoretically test wire resistance on my own. Any suggestion on where I should start?