BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

you could get a copy of the fsm, and start tracing wires, if you are handy with such teduious work.(i think the haynes manual has a wire chart, but my book seems to be so worthless everywhere else...)

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

not so much resistance... but rather, continuity and voltage. resistance is generally for sensors and injectors. your problem seems to be that wires are touching wires and shorting to each other. so what you want to see is if you can find a wire(s) that have voltage or readings that they aren't supposed to have

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

don't you have the pre-VE FSM? if so PM me dood.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

PM(s) sent

Bitter

Thanks a lot.

I'll see what kind of mess I can get myself into tomorrow.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

haha. that's the spirit.

dougb110

Hello all,

I recently bought a 1992 Maxima GXE from a co-worker. I bought it mainly to have something to drive instead of my gas guzzling 2004 Ford F150, but I also needed something for my son to drive while we fixed his 1992 Chevy truck. Once the truck was repaired and my son started driving it again, he mentioned that the car was not running right. So I dug into it and by process of elimination I determined the #3 injector was not working (pulling spark plug wires, injector connection wires, compression test, ohm test). So now I have the car in pieces in the garage and I hope to have it back together this weekend or early next week. At this time, I'll be replacing the one that was already bad and the one next to it that is bad now because I cracked some plastic on it getting it out (didn't mess with the other 4, so they should be OK). I already replaced the belts to eliminate some awful squeeling it was doing and my future projects include replacing the driver's side door hinges with some I got from a Pull-A-Part junk yard last weekend and fixing a high beam lighting problem (I'll post a seperate post for this since it's actually a question).

Anyway, thanks to everyone for the help you have provided already from your previous posts.

Doug

speedracerSE

Dude,
Did you make sure that is the right trany? Maybe you can compare it to another? You can probably check the transmission fluid on it, just to check. I would also take it back to whoever installed it. And have them research the prob.

crabapple

iTrader: (1)

Just a warning - you might want to replace all the injectors while you're in there. They tend to fail one after another. It happened to me and it's kind of conventional wisdom around here that if you can afford it, replace all of them.

Also, have you considered getting new hinges? They're only like 16-18 bucks at the dealer (you can get them online from Courtesy). It might be safer than used hinges from a JY.

dougb110

I've been reading all the posts about injectors and struggling with whether to do them all. It's an extra car for us and so won't be too big of a hassle to have to do it again. I'm pretty sure if it happened again though, I would do them all.

As far as the hinges, I may still get new ones. For some reason, I had it in my head that a set of hinges were like $60 new. But I think the ones I bought might be fine. We pulled and tugged on the doors at the JY until we found one with no up and down movement.

Thanks for the advise.

dougb110

I did some searches and didn't have any luck finding this same problem....

When I switch on my high beams on my 1992 Maxima GXE, the passenger side headlight goes completely off. I assumed one part of the bulb must be broken and so I bought another one to replace it. Still the same problem. So to see if it was really a bulb problem, I swapped the bulbs from the driver's side (which works fine) to the passenger side (which wasn't working) and found the problem had not changed. The driver's side still works fine and the passenger side still goes out on high beam.

I'm not sure where to start on this one. Maybe a bad dimmer switch? Any suggested steps for troubleshooting this?

Thanks

crabapple

iTrader: (1)

I actually got quoted about $60 per door when I was at Courtesy in person but checking their site later I found them for 1/2 that. Courtesy had a stellar rep around here at one time but not so much anymore. I have had relatively good experiences with them but have seen the good and bad. Their website however is a big help when you're looking for parts, http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasite/ . Choose your model and year and then "Genuine Nissan Parts" at the top left.

I need to do my drivers side hinges. The org has provided the direction now it's just up to me to get it done.

KillaKarebear

to me its sounds like a wiring problem. i look at the wiring diagram there r no fuses beside the main ones for the headlights i say follow the wiring back to the problem. i dont see it being the dimmer switch cuz only one of them is going out.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

yeah, bad switch is usually the problem. you can attempt to clean the contacts(), but i recommend checking out a new one. if you dont want to throw alotta money at it, you can go to PaP and get one, but i recommend getting a warranty on it, just in case it has a similar issue.

super easy to swap out(easier than those injectors!!! lol)

Bitter

Well. It was truly a moment of duh for me.

Had my battery replaced with a larger one this winter. When putting it in, the negative clamp would not reach. So I unbolted the ground from the frame so that it would reach. (With intention to fix it later.) Needless to say I totally forgot about it.

Fixed it all up and it now shifts normally again.

Thanks again for the help, and thank you benstoked for the shop manual. Hopefully I'll make use of it in the future.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

but you know what? we're proud of you. you figured out your mistake, fixed it, and put one more 3rd gen back in the "runs like a champ" category

lemans3427

The head lamp twist **** that connects to my steering column stopped working. I twisted it to turn the lights on and I heard a snap. I pulled it out and twisted it back in and nothing works. Has this happened to anyone else? Can anyone recommend a part?

Funambulus

I recently purchase a 1993 GXE and within two days of having it, the passenger side headlight housing managed to get shot out with a Pellet gun. I saw that you can do a BMW headlight conversion. And I was just curious do they have to be the stock lights, or can you put after market lights in?

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

A new or used combination switch will fix it.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Should be the same job(labor wise) either way.

dougb110

And
Thanks guys. I guess I'll wait on working on this problem until I finish with the fuel injectors and have the Maxima back on the road.

KillaKarebear

i was looking on Brace's page for car alarm wiring info and i say that there is a trunk pop on there. I would like to connect to my new alarm so I wanting to know if all 3rd gens have them or just specific models?

thanks

shoult

iTrader: (1)

If you have the electronic trunk popper it will be on the drivers door, near the back edge about 2/3 down from the window sill.

KillaKarebear

so only some models come with that option. cuz i have a cable pull lever thingy. how hard do you think would be to covert it to a stock popper? (giving that i find one in a JY)

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

SE has a handle for trunk (up) AND gas (down), and GXE has the electric popper for trunk and pull UP for gas. which is how come i opened the trunk on my SE parts car at the gas station thinking it was the same as my fuel door handle on my GXE.

shoult

iTrader: (1)

My 92 SE has the electric popper on the door and manual gas lever on the floor.

KillaKarebear

LOL I have done so many times. I just got the car like a month ago but really i just want it so i can hook it up to my car alarm cuz the "donkey" before me broke the key tumbler on the trunk so it forces me to open my car doors and blah blah blah... to me its time consuming when i can just press a button. Oh and where would be a good place to put my shock sensor at?

tmolloy

Hey all! First: I have a '94 Nissan Maxima. I have three questions relating to it:

1) Tires--what kind? I live in the desert and do mostly highway driving. I'm most concerned with quiet and comfortable ride, as well as gas mileage. I was looking at these: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....+Pole+Position
Seem like the best bet, but I have no idea about the "parts" side of cars. Also, if I install my own tires, what kind of "checkup" items should I do? What's the standard for things like rotation, balancing, etc., and what should I do as soon as I install the tires?

2) Struts--currently I have these crappy Gabriels from Autozone. I've had to replace each 1-2 times in the past 1-2 years. I'd like to upgrade.to some decent struts in the front, and, again, the most important factors are ride comfort/noise/gas mileage. I do about 75% of my driving on highways, and I drive about 400 miles a week. I've heard something about Tokico's but I'm not sure what model number/where to purchase them. It'd be nice if somehow I could take these Gabriels from Autozone and apply the money spent on those towards an upgrade, but I don't think that's possible. Any ideas for front struts?

3) Sway bar and end links. I'd like to replace both of these, with comfort/noise/mileage being the most important factors. What kind of sway bar should I be looking at? Same for the end links. I read the big posts on end links, but I'm still confused as to what exactly I should be buying. Again, I know nothing about car parts/models so that's what I need the most help with.

4) Spark plugs. I read the massive post on spark plugs and it seems like NGK BKR5ES-11's copper are the best best for my car as it has 130k on it and checking the spark plugs every 10-15k is a good idea anyway. My question is this: what else should I be replacing? I hear that it's a good idea to replace spark plug wires; what kind of wires should I be looking at? Is there anything else that would be a good idea to replace/check while I'm working in that area? I'd love to fix some of these little things that effect mileage/performance, as I do a lot of driving and small fixes can have a huge impact.

Thanks so much guys for any help you can provide! It really is a blast learning to do all this stuff!

Tom

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

I've heard good thing about the more-than-7mm Magstar plug wires. Also replace distributor cap, rotor, PCV valve and fuel filter when doing a tuneup. The rotor, PCV, and fuel filter will run $20ish for all of them, and the cap comes home for about $15.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Best all season tire you can buy imo are the toyo proxes 4


Tokico blues are what you need, they are as close to oem as it gets, and at a decent price.


Can be had here---> http://internetautosupply.com/catalog/


Or here---> http://www.shox.com/

Take your pic..



you can replace the end links with Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings from autozone, they are much stronger, but with little to no comfort change..Just get the pack of general purpose bushings

The sway bar bushings can be replaced with energy suspension bushings from the mid 90's fox body mustang part # ....just look around for the part # on the internet, it's there..

Good luck..

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

i converted mine easily.
quick write-up:
get the following.
-oem solenoid
-relay w/ harness
-driver's door pannel(if you can get just the lower half, it'll make carrying it easier)
-wire
-inline fuse holder w/fuse(can be eliminated if you tap into an existing fuse)

if you pull the parts from a junkyard car, the process becomes pretty obvious. if you need more info, pm me and i'll try to explain it to ya.

mattdau2001

im glad i found this place. i hate to lay down a long first post but i got a list of problems:

1. My tail lights/dash lights circuit kept tripping even with a 30 amp fuse it calls for a 10 amp. i quick fixed it with running a direct wire from battery to my tail lights with a switch to control them but my dash lights still blow fuses.


2. When i bought my car the trip odometer worked but when i reset it it stoped working and i realized my odometer did not work either


3. When my car tries to shift from 2nd to Drive i lose all power and my engine revs up to 7k rpm which is redlining. I have started to just leave it in 2nd and it works okay but im at about 4k rpm at 55mph.

Car info:
1992 Maxima SE about 213K miles Automatic Transmission

Thanks in advance for your help

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

your transmission is on it's last leg... i'd be looking for a suitable replacement and find a convenient time to replace (yourself if you can, mechanic if you can't) rather than having it totally let to, say, coming off the interstate onto the left lane of a US highway and having to coast into the nearest parking lot (like I did).

wires and fuses: somewhere there's a wire being naughty. check all your brake bulbs and make sure that none of the connections melted into each other. you should never have to run a direct battery tap to restore stock functionality.

odometer problem is probably a seized odometer motor.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

nice car, mang. I just wanted to address #1 from experience. under the dash is a little white box called the "timer control unit".(driver's side, between steering column and the door) replace that, and your problem should go away. any tcu from a maxima 92-94 will work. and in the mean time, pull out that 30a fuse. better that nothing works than to fry some wires.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

1. did you check your tail lights for corrosion in the sockets?
2. replace the cluster with one that has similar mileage.
3. replace the transmission
4. enjoy the car, even with that mileage they are still fun.

Obsession_92-94

What are the odds that you will find a cluster with similar mileage? Wouldn't it be easier to just change out the faulty part? Just curious. I have never actually had that problem, but it seems that that might be false advertising if this guy ever intends to sell.

NissanZealot

A few quick questions here:
*How can I reset my touch-pad keyless entry lock, preferably w/o taking apart my dash?
*Does anyone know anything about 3rd-gen aftermarket taillights? My search results have come up nada
*My power seatbelt it broken (the track it runs on is broke to hell and there looks to be wires in the way up in there)- what would be the best way to go about this?
*My rear windows do not go down at all and I have no idea how to fix that. New motor, perhaps?

I think thats it for now, thanks a ton

ProphetVG30E

-all you have to take apart is the glovebox, 10 simple screws. and on tha box, there's gonna be a 7 digit code followed by an "S", which is your reset code. put that in and when its beeping, put in a new code, then yadiyadiyah.
-not too sure about any aftermarket lights for 3rd gen's
-change the power seatbelt buckle. it should help
-make sure its not on lock, lol. if it isnt, then most likely you are going to need a motor for it, my dads old 94 SE had the same problem with 3 windows.

ProphetVG30E

well, i found one from a 91 Max SE, with maybe 300 miles less than mine, and the odometer didnt work, and the ABS light stayed on, but i have no ABS problems.

so you never know

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

not that hard, there are many cars out there with similar mileage. you could just change out the faulty part which IS the odometer itself.
maybe find someone who has a cluster with a good odometer, but bad something else. they should give it to you for free.


your seatbelts are under warranty from nissan.
windows could be either motor or regulator. open the door panel and look to see if anything looks broke.