*NOOBIES* The "I am new here,but have a question" thread..(post your questions here)
05-09-2008, 04:27 PM
#961
Thanks 
This is the 3rd gen section= 1989-1994 maximas
You need the 4th gen section=95-99..
They also have a noobie thread, just look around for it..
ok here goes.. i have a 95 gxe and am having trouble with the odometer. My odometer does not want to clock miles but my speedo and tach. work. has any1 experienced this b4 and would have some suggestions? considering just getting a new cluster but not sure if that would resolve the issue, could it be wiring? all fuses are fine. thx in advance
You need the 4th gen section=95-99..
They also have a noobie thread, just look around for it..
05-09-2008, 05:37 PM
#962
hey Greeny you max looks sick in your sig.
ok here goes.. i have a 95 gxe and am having trouble with the odometer. My odometer does not want to clock miles but my speedo and tach. work. has any1 experienced this b4 and would have some suggestions? considering just getting a new cluster but not sure if that would resolve the issue, could it be wiring? all fuses are fine. thx in advance
ok here goes.. i have a 95 gxe and am having trouble with the odometer. My odometer does not want to clock miles but my speedo and tach. work. has any1 experienced this b4 and would have some suggestions? considering just getting a new cluster but not sure if that would resolve the issue, could it be wiring? all fuses are fine. thx in advance
05-09-2008, 07:09 PM
#963
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: NJ
Posts: 475
i would like to post a tread but dont have sufficant privillege, how can i get more or can someone post it for me. i want to mod the rear suspension and i having difficulty desiding the best approch to the rear link arms and wanted to know what others have done to get the a good idea. i was thinking links from jegs but dont know if they are strong enough.
05-09-2008, 07:10 PM
#964
i would like to post a tread but dont have sufficant privillege, how can i get more or can someone post it for me. i want to mod the rear suspension and i having difficulty desiding the best approch to the rear link arms and wanted to know what others have done to get the a good idea. i was thinking links from jegs but dont know if they are strong enough.
05-10-2008, 08:35 PM
#965
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 9
. anyway thanks for the help!!!
05-11-2008, 10:50 AM
#966
Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Cape Town, South Africa
Posts: 76
Good day.
Have anybody had any experience or heard of "Dipetane". http://www.dipetaneusa.com/index.php
It is a additive. They say:
"Dipetane is different from any other fuel product you have been searching for to get your engine driving you farther and running cleaner. Dipetane reduces your fuel costs by improving fuel economy from 10% to 15%. Dipetane releases more energy from your fuel, resulting in more power and better mileage. It also burns the carbons that would normally cause carbon deposit build-up, therefore extending both your oil and engine life. Proven in over 100 million miles of service, Dipetane improves fuel economy, reduces emissions, extends oil life and reduces engine wear."
I'm thinking of maybe trying it. Nothing to lose. If it works good if not then I don't buy it again.
Have anybody had any experience or heard of "Dipetane". http://www.dipetaneusa.com/index.php
It is a additive. They say:
"Dipetane is different from any other fuel product you have been searching for to get your engine driving you farther and running cleaner. Dipetane reduces your fuel costs by improving fuel economy from 10% to 15%. Dipetane releases more energy from your fuel, resulting in more power and better mileage. It also burns the carbons that would normally cause carbon deposit build-up, therefore extending both your oil and engine life. Proven in over 100 million miles of service, Dipetane improves fuel economy, reduces emissions, extends oil life and reduces engine wear."
I'm thinking of maybe trying it. Nothing to lose. If it works good if not then I don't buy it again.
05-11-2008, 12:10 PM
#967
Good day.
Have anybody had any experience or heard of "Dipetane". http://www.dipetaneusa.com/index.php
It is a additive. They say:
"Dipetane is different from any other fuel product you have been searching for to get your engine driving you farther and running cleaner. Dipetane reduces your fuel costs by improving fuel economy from 10% to 15%. Dipetane releases more energy from your fuel, resulting in more power and better mileage. It also burns the carbons that would normally cause carbon deposit build-up, therefore extending both your oil and engine life. Proven in over 100 million miles of service, Dipetane improves fuel economy, reduces emissions, extends oil life and reduces engine wear."
I'm thinking of maybe trying it. Nothing to lose. If it works good if not then I don't buy it again.
Have anybody had any experience or heard of "Dipetane". http://www.dipetaneusa.com/index.php
It is a additive. They say:
"Dipetane is different from any other fuel product you have been searching for to get your engine driving you farther and running cleaner. Dipetane reduces your fuel costs by improving fuel economy from 10% to 15%. Dipetane releases more energy from your fuel, resulting in more power and better mileage. It also burns the carbons that would normally cause carbon deposit build-up, therefore extending both your oil and engine life. Proven in over 100 million miles of service, Dipetane improves fuel economy, reduces emissions, extends oil life and reduces engine wear."
I'm thinking of maybe trying it. Nothing to lose. If it works good if not then I don't buy it again.
05-11-2008, 01:01 PM
#968
Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Cape Town, South Africa
Posts: 76
Because Dipetane only contains approved fuel components, Dipetane-treated fuel meets all manufacturer and regulatory fuel specifications.
Thus I think one can assume to a degree that it will not damage anything. Plus dipetane was created in 1985 in Irland. If was cause damage it would probably not still be available.
Thus I think one can assume to a degree that it will not damage anything. Plus dipetane was created in 1985 in Irland. If was cause damage it would probably not still be available.
05-11-2008, 01:10 PM
#969
Because Dipetane only contains approved fuel components, Dipetane-treated fuel meets all manufacturer and regulatory fuel specifications.
Thus I think one can assume to a degree that it will not damage anything. Plus dipetane was created in 1985 in Irland. If was cause damage it would probably not still be available.
Thus I think one can assume to a degree that it will not damage anything. Plus dipetane was created in 1985 in Irland. If was cause damage it would probably not still be available.
again i'm not saying it does cause harm, just saying to be cautious. if it were that great i'm sure that someone on here would have touted it long ago... that's why i'm weary of all "miracle ______" whether it be for weight loss pills, car stuff, household cleaning products, computer "optimizers" and all that other stuff.
05-11-2008, 04:50 PM
#970
I have a 90 maxima sohc lookin 2 turbo it and i was wonderin the best way 2 rought exaust. what injectors would be good also 2 use. and any intercooler ways 2 go. please send pics or suttin if u got them please help
05-11-2008, 04:57 PM
#971
Search: VG turbo and VG exhaust manifold
05-11-2008, 05:53 PM
#972
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Vineland, NJ, 08360
Posts: 244
Good day.
Have anybody had any experience or heard of "Dipetane". http://www.dipetaneusa.com/index.php
It is a additive. They say:
"Dipetane is different from any other fuel product you have been searching for to get your engine driving you farther and running cleaner. Dipetane reduces your fuel costs by improving fuel economy from 10% to 15%. Dipetane releases more energy from your fuel, resulting in more power and better mileage. It also burns the carbons that would normally cause carbon deposit build-up, therefore extending both your oil and engine life. Proven in over 100 million miles of service, Dipetane improves fuel economy, reduces emissions, extends oil life and reduces engine wear."
I'm thinking of maybe trying it. Nothing to lose. If it works good if not then I don't buy it again.
Have anybody had any experience or heard of "Dipetane". http://www.dipetaneusa.com/index.php
It is a additive. They say:
"Dipetane is different from any other fuel product you have been searching for to get your engine driving you farther and running cleaner. Dipetane reduces your fuel costs by improving fuel economy from 10% to 15%. Dipetane releases more energy from your fuel, resulting in more power and better mileage. It also burns the carbons that would normally cause carbon deposit build-up, therefore extending both your oil and engine life. Proven in over 100 million miles of service, Dipetane improves fuel economy, reduces emissions, extends oil life and reduces engine wear."
I'm thinking of maybe trying it. Nothing to lose. If it works good if not then I don't buy it again.
05-11-2008, 09:34 PM
#973
Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 230
Y-pipe + intake = ? hp (VG)
So I have the warpseed ypipe and my intake is gutted, how much horsepower would you say I have at the crank? Just an estimate so if someone asks how much hp does this car have, I say ____?
05-12-2008, 06:10 AM
#974
05-12-2008, 06:46 AM
#975
Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Cape Town, South Africa
Posts: 76
Stock intake pipes
I've wanting check what effect the stock pipe from the airbox to just behind the headlight have. So today I took it out, if effect making the setup a HAI.
The sound is much better, throttle response is better and feel like there is more power. The car chirps much easier now if I shift to hard to 2de gear. Will run it like this now for a tank or so. See how much an effect it has looking at my MPG. Then the idea is to maybe place a thick pipe from airbox to front like the CAI setup is done. Then again I drive mostly highway so some will say the pipe is not needed as some cold air gets into engine buy. Will see.
When I had the plastic stock pipe out I calculated the size area of both ends of the pipe. The end that connects to the airbox is around 6200mm^2 and the end just behind the headlight is around 3800mm^2. that is a 40% reduction.
Airbox end
Headlight end
The sound is much better, throttle response is better and feel like there is more power. The car chirps much easier now if I shift to hard to 2de gear. Will run it like this now for a tank or so. See how much an effect it has looking at my MPG. Then the idea is to maybe place a thick pipe from airbox to front like the CAI setup is done. Then again I drive mostly highway so some will say the pipe is not needed as some cold air gets into engine buy. Will see.
When I had the plastic stock pipe out I calculated the size area of both ends of the pipe. The end that connects to the airbox is around 6200mm^2 and the end just behind the headlight is around 3800mm^2. that is a 40% reduction.
Airbox end
Headlight end
Last edited by whattingh; 05-12-2008 at 06:50 AM. Reason: image resize
05-12-2008, 09:37 AM
#976
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 12
Hey guys I'm looking at a 89 and have a few questions. It has 200k on it but seems to run fine. The driver window is stuck in the down position and the passenger window is stuck in the up position but the rear ones go up and down. We had to jump it to get it started and after I got back and turned the car off and tried to start it again it was dead. He said something about the security system wearing down the battery. Anyway I'm getting it for 500 and was wondering if there was anything else I should worry about.
05-12-2008, 09:56 AM
#977
Hey guys I'm looking at a 89 and have a few questions. It has 200k on it but seems to run fine. The driver window is stuck in the down position and the passenger window is stuck in the up position but the rear ones go up and down. We had to jump it to get it started and after I got back and turned the car off and tried to start it again it was dead. He said something about the security system wearing down the battery. Anyway I'm getting it for 500 and was wondering if there was anything else I should worry about.
05-12-2008, 11:07 AM
#979
05-12-2008, 12:20 PM
#981
05-14-2008, 05:48 PM
#984
05-17-2008, 07:47 AM
#985
Banned
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 447
I'm back. I was in the hospital a couple of weaks ago (half collapsed lung) but anyways my last post was probably back on page 21. I'd been having problems after installing a cone air filter directly to the MAF using an adapter bought at autozone. I have concluded that the injectors aren't screwed up, the MAF is fine, there is no vacuum leak, etc. The maxima works perfect with the stock airbox. The problem is I liked the way the car behaved when I first put on the cone. For the past few weeks I've been avoiding the intake and I've gone ahead and replaced my cheap acdelco spark plugs (which were in fine condition) with some nice bosch platinum ir fusions which should last me a lifetime. I'll probably upgrade my wires next, either just some low resistance ones or some hotwires (nology made wires with capacitors) - I'm leaning towards the low resistance ones at this point due to price and simplicity. Then I'll probably go ahead and look for a performance muffler made out of stainless steel with a 2 1/2 inch inlet for $50-200 (I was planning to buy a $60 one when I got out of the hospital but I've been thinking I'd be better off with a more expensive one. After that I'll probably go ahead and finish it off with a catback and maybe a Y pipe after seeing all the hype about them here.
Still I really want my cone air filter and if anyone knows why a decent cone in the stock air box location would cause my car to run rough (likely misfiring) with everything stock let me know because at this point my only idea is the air is too turbulent and that if I put some distance between the MAF and the cone I'll be fine.
Still I really want my cone air filter and if anyone knows why a decent cone in the stock air box location would cause my car to run rough (likely misfiring) with everything stock let me know because at this point my only idea is the air is too turbulent and that if I put some distance between the MAF and the cone I'll be fine.
05-17-2008, 11:53 AM
#986
NEVER use Bosch plugs. ever. ever ever ever. Use NGK coppers (yea you will have to change them more but they work great and are like cheap). And get magstar 8mm wires.
i have a cone right at the MAF and it always ran fine as car as i could tell. i don't know if my filter ever got oiled tho. probably didn't. also there are many other things that can randomly cause misfiring and stuff. it could be injectors or something.
i have a cone right at the MAF and it always ran fine as car as i could tell. i don't know if my filter ever got oiled tho. probably didn't. also there are many other things that can randomly cause misfiring and stuff. it could be injectors or something.
05-17-2008, 01:14 PM
#987
Banned
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 447
I've been told by a couple guys not to use Bosch on a Nissan though the ones I know that are local also think that Nissan sucks and that Honda Civics are fast so I tend to regard at least 80% of their opinions as pure bunk. I really was looking at NGK as an alternative for a while but I decided against them. So why don't you approve of the bosch's? As far as I could gather my friends only don't like them cause bosch is a german brand and ngk isn't.
I know coppers and platinums have some differences in their firing characteristics but they seem to be running even smoother on idle than my old acdelcos so I don't think that should be an issue, I know the acdelcos were gapped as per Nissan's recommendation and haven't had that much use on them. I'd even dare to say there is a noticeable difference in fuel economy in the past 25 miles I've driven it.
Also, the misfiring was by no means random, it starts a couple miles after you start driving with the cone and doesn't let up except when you are driving at 4000rpm+ or swap back in the stock air box. It's just too constant to be considered random. Definitely has something to do with the way the MAF is reading the air.
I know coppers and platinums have some differences in their firing characteristics but they seem to be running even smoother on idle than my old acdelcos so I don't think that should be an issue, I know the acdelcos were gapped as per Nissan's recommendation and haven't had that much use on them. I'd even dare to say there is a noticeable difference in fuel economy in the past 25 miles I've driven it.
Also, the misfiring was by no means random, it starts a couple miles after you start driving with the cone and doesn't let up except when you are driving at 4000rpm+ or swap back in the stock air box. It's just too constant to be considered random. Definitely has something to do with the way the MAF is reading the air.
Last edited by 3g94MaxGXE; 05-17-2008 at 01:22 PM.
05-17-2008, 01:23 PM
#988
I've been told by a couple guys not to use Bosch on a Nissan though the ones I know that are local also think that Nissan sucks and that Honda Civics are fast so I tend to regard at least 80% of their opinions as pure bunk. I really was looking at NGK as an alternative for a while but I decided against them. So why don't you approve of the bosch's? As far as I could gather my friends only don't like them cause bosch is a german brand and ngk isn't.
I know coppers and platinums have some differences in their firing characteristics but they seem to be running even smoother on idle than my old acdelcos so I don't think that should be an issue, I know the acdelcos were gapped as per Nissan's recommendation and haven't had that much use on them. I'd even dare to say there is a noticeable difference in fuel economy in the past 25 miles I've driven it.
Also, the misfiring was by no means random, it starts a couple miles after you start driving with the cone and doesn't let up except when you are driving at 4000rpm+ or swap back in the stock air box. It's just too constant to be considered random. Definitely has something to do with the way the MAF is reading the air.
I know coppers and platinums have some differences in their firing characteristics but they seem to be running even smoother on idle than my old acdelcos so I don't think that should be an issue, I know the acdelcos were gapped as per Nissan's recommendation and haven't had that much use on them. I'd even dare to say there is a noticeable difference in fuel economy in the past 25 miles I've driven it.
Also, the misfiring was by no means random, it starts a couple miles after you start driving with the cone and doesn't let up except when you are driving at 4000rpm+ or swap back in the stock air box. It's just too constant to be considered random. Definitely has something to do with the way the MAF is reading the air.
and by random misfire i meant when the problem just shows up without you having done anything to cause it, whether it becomes a permenent problem or not. Like my car randomly started missing when it's warming up, and has done it for 2 months now. A non-randomly-appearing miss would be something like user error, breaking something, running bad fuel, leaving a hose/connector unplugged, experimentation, etc.
Last edited by CapedCadaver; 05-17-2008 at 01:27 PM.
05-17-2008, 01:44 PM
#989
Banned
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 447
I see the pics but I've also seen plenty of things on the internet praising the IR Fusions for being the absolute best plugs, I find it hard to let one fiat screwing up in -20C weather while using double the gas as a problem since I seem to be using less. Either way from what I've read I can return them if I am not satisfied for a full refund so if I can really get some more information on why I don't want boschs I may go ahead and do that.
(from bosch's site: However, if you do not experience quicker starts, smoother acceleration, and improved fuel efficiency, you can return the plugs with a dated sales receipt and Bosch will refund the purchase price of the spark plugs.)
(from bosch's site: However, if you do not experience quicker starts, smoother acceleration, and improved fuel efficiency, you can return the plugs with a dated sales receipt and Bosch will refund the purchase price of the spark plugs.)
05-17-2008, 07:58 PM
#990
2 things:
1. Collapsed lungs are no fun. I had one several years back. they still have no clue what caused it.
2. I actually talked to bosch reps 2 years ago about the issue and they claimed it was fixed and even offered to send me a set of plugs as proof. Plugs never came. makes me think that the issue is still there, and they just don't care. Bosch is a cheap plug these days, I don't think any one is currently using them at the OE level anymore. NGK is still OE in 50% of current production cars.
1. Collapsed lungs are no fun. I had one several years back. they still have no clue what caused it.
2. I actually talked to bosch reps 2 years ago about the issue and they claimed it was fixed and even offered to send me a set of plugs as proof. Plugs never came. makes me think that the issue is still there, and they just don't care. Bosch is a cheap plug these days, I don't think any one is currently using them at the OE level anymore. NGK is still OE in 50% of current production cars.
05-17-2008, 08:16 PM
#991
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 14
Alright, alright....
Technically I'm a noob, but I've been on here since '06 - go fig.... should read more.....
Anyways, I'm in quite a bit of a quandary here. I read about half of the 20+ pages here (honest!), so here goes......
Driving home the other day in my '89 auto/vg/235k/, I start to notice smoke coming out of my passengers side hood - not good. A minute later, "pfffft, pop!" and a bunch of clear fluid gets all over my windshield. A minute later at home, I pop the steaming hood to see that the bypass hose for my cooling system was blown wide open! It didn't look particular old/frayed, and the top radiator hose had developed a small hose in it also.
After replacing the hoses and filling the radiator with antifreeze (which I admit I effed up - I didn't drain the old stuff, and didn't open the breather on the top of the intake), I drove it around maybe 10 min. and it started smoking again like crazy. I get home, and the fluid in the overflow tank is BOILING HOT.
Any ideas? I'm thinking the thermostat maybe - I dunno how to replace that though - the chilton manual is vague as hell on it, and I only gots simple hand tools. To problem to borrow/buy outright though. Jest need to know which tools.
Also - my power steering died right before the hose went crazy. It's got plenty of fluid in it (regular power steering fluid, not ATF like people on here use - natch). (Sighs) I'm prob. screwed.
Anyones 2 cents is great.Can put pics on flickr if anyone wants.
Anyways, I'm in quite a bit of a quandary here. I read about half of the 20+ pages here (honest!), so here goes......
Driving home the other day in my '89 auto/vg/235k/, I start to notice smoke coming out of my passengers side hood - not good. A minute later, "pfffft, pop!" and a bunch of clear fluid gets all over my windshield. A minute later at home, I pop the steaming hood to see that the bypass hose for my cooling system was blown wide open! It didn't look particular old/frayed, and the top radiator hose had developed a small hose in it also.
After replacing the hoses and filling the radiator with antifreeze (which I admit I effed up - I didn't drain the old stuff, and didn't open the breather on the top of the intake), I drove it around maybe 10 min. and it started smoking again like crazy. I get home, and the fluid in the overflow tank is BOILING HOT.
Any ideas? I'm thinking the thermostat maybe - I dunno how to replace that though - the chilton manual is vague as hell on it, and I only gots simple hand tools. To problem to borrow/buy outright though. Jest need to know which tools.
Also - my power steering died right before the hose went crazy. It's got plenty of fluid in it (regular power steering fluid, not ATF like people on here use - natch). (Sighs) I'm prob. screwed.
Anyones 2 cents is great.Can put pics on flickr if anyone wants.
05-17-2008, 08:24 PM
#992
Technically I'm a noob, but I've been on here since '06 - go fig.... should read more.....
Anyways, I'm in quite a bit of a quandary here. I read about half of the 20+ pages here (honest!), so here goes......
Driving home the other day in my '89 auto/vg/235k/, I start to notice smoke coming out of my passengers side hood - not good. A minute later, "pfffft, pop!" and a bunch of clear fluid gets all over my windshield. A minute later at home, I pop the steaming hood to see that the bypass hose for my cooling system was blown wide open! It didn't look particular old/frayed, and the top radiator hose had developed a small hose in it also.
After replacing the hoses and filling the radiator with antifreeze (which I admit I effed up - I didn't drain the old stuff, and didn't open the breather on the top of the intake), I drove it around maybe 10 min. and it started smoking again like crazy. I get home, and the fluid in the overflow tank is BOILING HOT.
Any ideas? I'm thinking the thermostat maybe - I dunno how to replace that though - the chilton manual is vague as hell on it, and I only gots simple hand tools. To problem to borrow/buy outright though. Jest need to know which tools.
Also - my power steering died right before the hose went crazy. It's got plenty of fluid in it (regular power steering fluid, not ATF like people on here use - natch). (Sighs) I'm prob. screwed.
Anyones 2 cents is great.Can put pics on flickr if anyone wants.
Anyways, I'm in quite a bit of a quandary here. I read about half of the 20+ pages here (honest!), so here goes......
Driving home the other day in my '89 auto/vg/235k/, I start to notice smoke coming out of my passengers side hood - not good. A minute later, "pfffft, pop!" and a bunch of clear fluid gets all over my windshield. A minute later at home, I pop the steaming hood to see that the bypass hose for my cooling system was blown wide open! It didn't look particular old/frayed, and the top radiator hose had developed a small hose in it also.
After replacing the hoses and filling the radiator with antifreeze (which I admit I effed up - I didn't drain the old stuff, and didn't open the breather on the top of the intake), I drove it around maybe 10 min. and it started smoking again like crazy. I get home, and the fluid in the overflow tank is BOILING HOT.
Any ideas? I'm thinking the thermostat maybe - I dunno how to replace that though - the chilton manual is vague as hell on it, and I only gots simple hand tools. To problem to borrow/buy outright though. Jest need to know which tools.
Also - my power steering died right before the hose went crazy. It's got plenty of fluid in it (regular power steering fluid, not ATF like people on here use - natch). (Sighs) I'm prob. screwed.
Anyones 2 cents is great.Can put pics on flickr if anyone wants.
and the steering fluid is atf (don't know what "natch" means... does that mean "i know it should be atf but that's not what's in there" or what?). using regular power steering fluid will destroy your PS system.
05-17-2008, 08:57 PM
#993
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 14
Well, thanks for the quick reply. And, well, I figured out I needed to use atf while reading this thread. Heh, heh, Heh.......
Just looked at the belt - neither of the serpentines look noticeably bad or anything - no fraying/cracking. The steering feels like the time I rented a Geo Metro with no PS rite now........
Just looked at the belt - neither of the serpentines look noticeably bad or anything - no fraying/cracking. The steering feels like the time I rented a Geo Metro with no PS rite now........
05-17-2008, 09:15 PM
#994
Well, thanks for the quick reply. And, well, I figured out I needed to use atf while reading this thread. Heh, heh, Heh.......
Just looked at the belt - neither of the serpentines look noticeably bad or anything - no fraying/cracking. The steering feels like the time I rented a Geo Metro with no PS rite now........
Just looked at the belt - neither of the serpentines look noticeably bad or anything - no fraying/cracking. The steering feels like the time I rented a Geo Metro with no PS rite now........
in that pic the A/C and its belt are missing, but the PS/WP belt is shown, and the alty belt is shown
Last edited by CapedCadaver; 05-17-2008 at 10:15 PM.
05-18-2008, 07:52 PM
#996
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 1
1993 Maxima GXE - Warm weather = rough idle???
Ok, so there's obviously a lot of knowledge and experience on this forum, I'm hoping that you can share some of it with me. My Maxima runs fine so long as the weather is cold, but once it warms up to about 80 degrees F, it starts idling really roughly, sometimes to the point of stalling. The only reason I can conceive is that perhaps the difference in air density is somehow fouling the air/fuel mix. The engine isn't running hot, just rough, and has very little power. I've checked/cleaned/replaced most of the Air Intake parts. I've had the fuel system flushed and cleaned. I just don't know what else to do. My instinct is to replace the injectors next, but at the price of those things, I'm hesitant to make that leap blindly. Does anyone have any other suggestions, or am I on the right track, thinking it's the injectors? I'm definitely not a mechanic. My background is in physics and computers so I can understand the principles and concepts, but I'm afraid I'm lost when it comes to the practical application of diagnosing the problems. Any advice or thoughts you might have to offer would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
Thank you.
05-19-2008, 12:31 AM
#997
Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Rochester NY
Posts: 31
car dies once in a while
I have a 93 GXE and occasionally the car will be very rough while its idling and if I am in stop and go traffic the car will die unless I put it in park while I'm not moving and keep the revs up myself. When the problem starts the rpms jump up and down by itself and eventually will die. It will start up again if I get a jump but overall its a pain in the but to deal with. I've took it to 4 mechanics and every time I take it the car runs perfect and they always say "I don't see anything wrong" and I really want to get this fixed because I like my max. btw I have just bought a brand new battery and altenator and the problem still continues
05-19-2008, 03:54 AM
#998
Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Cape Town, South Africa
Posts: 76
I have a 93 GXE and occasionally the car will be very rough while its idling and if I am in stop and go traffic the car will die unless I put it in park while I'm not moving and keep the revs up myself. When the problem starts the rpms jump up and down by itself and eventually will die. It will start up again if I get a jump but overall its a pain in the but to deal with. I've took it to 4 mechanics and every time I take it the car runs perfect and they always say "I don't see anything wrong" and I really want to get this fixed because I like my max. btw I have just bought a brand new battery and altenator and the problem still continues
05-19-2008, 03:58 AM
#999
Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Cape Town, South Africa
Posts: 76
Headlight bulb different
Hi. I'm from South Africa and have notice that there is a few differences on my maxima (vg30e 5sp) than the rest of the world.
The one thing that I discovered today is that my headlights has H4 bulb(60/55w). No mods to the headlights. Just wondering if there is anybody else out there also with this H4 headlights.
The one thing that I discovered today is that my headlights has H4 bulb(60/55w). No mods to the headlights. Just wondering if there is anybody else out there also with this H4 headlights.
05-19-2008, 04:13 AM
#1000
Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Rochester NY
Posts: 31