alright so if the odometer is running when the car moving my speedometer is out if not then the clip could be popped out or sensor out. hope i got it. thanks

 

Basically.
have fun

 

I have a 1993 maxima (VG30 E). At running temp. when driving down the road it seems to misfire or 'shutter' and I can't drive out of it. Again only does it when engine has had time to warm up. Runs fine at idle and when given gas in park mode. Has thrown no codes. I pulled the plugs one by one while car was running to check the injectors and all seem to be fine. Any ideas? New water pump and timing belt installed 2 months ago. New cap and rotor last winter. Thanks in advance to all who respond.


ps- great site lots of good info.

 

Hey guys, gas is getting so high the fj40 is seeing it's last days as my dd unfortunately. Now i know v6 isn't a great gas saver but it get 26 highway and 19 city. Thats great compared to my 8mpgs.

Specs:
1991 Nissan Maxima
Reman auto tranny just put in with 30k
372,xxx miles (yea alot i know)
All power options
sunroof
white with burgundy interior
interior is flawless with all leather
nice cd player
speedometer and tach currently don't work

Engine: RUNS LIKE A TOP, the car belongs to a buddy of mine and he wanted me to look at it cause it's been sitting for 3 months cause it wouldn't turn over. It turned out to be a dead battery. Put the cables on it and it fired up after the engine turned twice. Runs smooth, drives great. Tranny shifts ok. AC is ICE COLD. Shocks are shot but i don't mind. All highway miles, guy used to drive from birmingham to atlanta everyday for work (120 miles one way). Oil is changed every 3k religiously.

$500 cash, what do yall think

 

hey Guys does anyone have a gen 3 outfitted with K-Sport suspension coilover springs? if so tell me so I can go purchase some or if anyone can give me a coilover suspension set up they have, throw me the brand names.
I'm having trouble finding any what can I say Australia is remote lol thanks

 

I would say go for it if you are willing to put a little time in to fix some of the other bells and whistles.

 

Sorry mang, K-Sport nor any other company makes a true coilover suspension for the 3rd gen maxima.

Check out http://www.shox.com/ For the current available suspension systems for the 3rd gen.

I"m not sure if this company ships to aussie land..

 

how hard is it to replace the alt. mount? EDIT: it looks it holds my a/c compressor. is it the same mount?

 

how old is the timing belt?

 

Ummmm.... 240 miles a day and he changed it every 3000 miles religiously? So he changed it every 12.5 working days?

That's religion!

 

well, he was at the gas station 3 days a week, so i guess he had plenty of opportunities to buy oil and filter.

 

I forgot to ask, any cancer (rust) anywhere on the exterior? I would check behind the passenger seats if you can't see any on the outside. Maxima's are renown for rust there if any at all.

 

he changed it in 2004, how long do they usually last.

 

no rust

 

60k miles is the universal recommendation around here. i got a maxima for $450 in decent shape with a little over 230k miles b/c they snapped their tbelt from ignorance. they could have sold it for $2000 instead that $1500 is mine for the taking.

 

Trip meter was running whaile the car was moving so I pulled the cluster swapped the speedometer out in it with the 145 mph one from my 94 works fine now. Also pulled the trans speed sensor was a red plastic gear on the end wiped a few pieces of debris with a paper towel bolted it back in easy to reach too was thinking maybe that fixed it idk? either way it is working now, thanks for the info!

 

I'm sure changing the timing belt is way over due so my question is can it be done without pulling the engine? The notorious broken manifold studs is suspected to be the cause of this nasty putting sound I'm getting from my max can this fix also be done with the engine left in the bay? What time frame should I be looking at to get both done?

 

the speedometer replacement is what fixed it. but I'm a bit concerned about "debris" being found on the speedp drive gear. that is typically not a good thing.
FWIW, you could / should have just swapped over the whole cluster so all the gauges match.
I didn't do it on my camaro, and regretted it.

 

studs are a major cause of putting, yes. fronts are easier than rears, but all can and have been done on-car by a few members here.

tbelt can be (and on my car, has been) done with the engine in place. just take off that plastic panel, remove the belts, main pulley, tbelt cover, and one or two other items to get to it. good idea to do front main and the 2 camshaft oil seals while you're there and have everything apart, since that's really the only time you'll ever get to them. also replace your water pump, thermostat, and tbelt tensioner while you're in there... it just makes sense to save yourself both the double labor when they eventually break/wear and the peace of mind of knowing exactly how old all your components are.

 

Hey guys wassup. Something crazy happened to me today. I was driving and all of a sudden the radio and clock went out, the airbag light came on, and now the seatbelt doesn't "retract" when the ignition is off. Also, the windshield wipers don't work. I can hear a motor running when I turn them on but they don't move. I appreciate any help.

 

Might want to check some fuses.

 

did you check all fuses and fusible links?

 

Need help i dont hear the window washer motor working and no fluid is coming out
i want to know is there a fuse for that motor because i cant seem to find it even under the dash

 

go down there, put a multimeter to those 2 pins, and see if it gets voltage when the key is on accessory and someone pulls the washer lever. if NO voltage, it's wiring. if you DO get voltage, it's a burnt motor. easy to replace.

 

Looking for the best prices possible for a timing belt, tensioner, front main seal etc. all the crirical easy to replace parts that should be done at the same time.

 

I replaced the harness for the front 3 injectors, but I'm completely lost on how to change the ones on the back of the motor any ideas ? Links with pics ....thanks help!!!!

 

changing your harnesses you mean? is there something wrong with them? green crud? if so get a wire brush and clean that crap out out of there, and clean the injector terminals too. no need to swap them if that's the case.

 

I would recommend cleaning it with a baking soda solution. That generally does a great job in removing corrosion such as battery corrosion.

 

best possible price means cheapest crap possible, is that really what you want on a part that causes hundreds of dollars worth of damage when it breaks?

 

http://www.courtesyparts.com/

http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasit...7662_7663.html

 

I'm going to check this weekend but why would the airbag light come on?

 

This could be a result of a bad fuse. There are sensors all over this car so it might not hurt to get that one checked out as well. If there is still a problem, you might have an expired airbag. I personally don't work in that area as I don't trust myself to save my life.

 

On another note, does anyone know of a good substitute for a HUD screen for the windshield? I really do not want to have to buy one for just the reflective screen...

 

i look at it this way inexpensive parts have to be better than what's on there right now the engine has 199,000 miles on it, can't have much left. high priced high quality parts would be a waste right? you tell me.

 

I saw this advice when I was doing mine, but I could not figure out what kind of brush a person could possibly use to get into the contact opening (which is only about as thick as the thickness of a dime and is also set down into the connector's plastic housing). I was able to use an emory board to clean the contacts on the injectors themselves.

As far as the connectors, I tried spraying contact cleaner into them and poking several small pointy things into the connectors, but I wasn't satisfied anything was doing any good.

I just bought a second harness like the one for the front and cut the connectors off of them and spliced/soldered them onto the wires for the back connectors. I had to cut quite a bit of the wire back to get past the corrosion and it was still discolored, I just scratched it against some sand paper until it had a little shine to it and then soldered as good as I could, and it seems to be working for now.

I wish they had just made the back a $21 harness like the front instead of tying it into the main engine harness (>$150 and a PITA to install I would guess).

 

Quality parts are never a waste.
spending a few bucks more on quality parts on a car that you plan on keeping over 30 days makes sense especially if you don't like doing jobs multiple times.

 

I hear you, I definitely plan on keeping this car for more than 30 days so what distributor would you recommend for something descent not the most expensive but quality, reliable parts?

 

I used a dremell at the lowest spped with one of those pointed diamond dusted grinding needles. It goes everywhere and cleaned out everything really quick and easy. be careful not to overdo it .

 

92 Max, VG, A/T. Help, I can't get the security light to stop flashing and I can't get the door open warning light to go off. I have checked all the door switches with an ohm meter and they work correctly. Could be a short somewhere I suppose, but before I rip all the carpet out to see if I can find it, I wondered if it could be the controller? Are the hood and trunk switches tied into this also? Would this have anything to do whth the security light, since it thinks a door is open somewhere? Any help/advice would be appreciated.

 

Have you tried checking the fuses? It could be detecting this break somewhere because there is a faulty fuse.