No, it will have just bit more growl then a 3rd gen muffler, but not a big difference..

same as ours..

 

Any muffler will work as long as it's the correct size, with a center inlet, a correctly equipped muffler shop can enlarge/decrease the inlet size to accommodate our exhaust pipe size..

 

want noise? cut the muffler off, weld a glass pack on.

 

because i said i wanted a horrible sounding exhaust

 

or just cut it off and leave it off good luck with the cops tho. here's my parts car the day i got it, me driving (still couldn't drive stick worth a damn), my brother asking stupid questions. it's about 2-3x as loud as the video made it sound. the muffler was still on it, but the ypipe flex section detached from the cat flange, so most all of the air was coming out unmuffled.

 

i have a feeling that imma get owned for asking this.

would a 300zx shifter fit as a poor mans sts? *z32*

oh and where can i get a new shifter bushing? i think mine ripped of just fell off somehow. damn high speed bumps in mexico

 

ive heard magnaflows are good. and yeah, theres adapters to fit incase the sizes are wrong

i wanted to get a cherry bomb glasspack but here with tinted windows or loud exhaust you have the you know whats pulling you over for no reason

 

yea im going magnaflow or cheap 5th gen oem. im putting up my build thread tomorrow. you guys will definitely want to see. also what are the pros and cons to advanced timing. i know its out there but its the noob thread...

 

well it's not a direct fit, but the way the ball socket is collared, i think that it's feasible to do. go ahead and get a full spare maxima shifter unless you want to take the one off your car to play with (takes about an hour your first time if you're lucky enough not to have rust), then remove the non-moving rod from the upper base part, then unhook the control rod (the one that moves) and unhook the stick socket, then try and fit the z32 socket/stick in its place. and take pics for us too!

 

if i can find one this weekend i will try to take lots of pics and do it all for fun and info

 

wow! yeah its me and it looks like more problems so i went and started my car today and I checked around my injectors for gas because i could smell it and come to find out its coming out from around and area and dripping on something and i highly doubt if thats a good thing ill up load a pic in a few mins


You can see clearly where there is no build up where the gas cleaned it off where the build up came from i dont know maybe i should replace the gaskets?

 

What is the oil capacity for a 94 Maxima? Also, is 5w30 fine for NYC area? Not planning on putting synthetic.

Also, what kinda of ATF should I use? Dextron II or III?

The car didn't come with any manuals so thats why I'm asking.

thanks =)

 

4.3 quarts...5w30 is fine for ny

DextronIII

I have a manual for 1994 maxima for sale if you want it..

 

I just bought a 93 maxima, have only had it a few weeks but i have noticed it seems to run a little rich. when i let it warm up on cold days the interior stinks of gasoline and the exhaust seems to smell a little more gassy then it should. I get about 5-600km /tank and other than the smell it seems to run fine, there is only 150k on the engine but 600km doesnt seem to be very good mileage for a nissan as my 91 buick with 250k got the same mileage. any idea what might be causing her to run so rich?

 

in the 'general maintainence' sticky on post #18 there's instructions how to check for ECU codes. you might have an error with the CTS or o2 sensor that would cause it to run rich all the time. the 2nd link on there will show you how to translate the number into an error description.

 

Thanks for the fast reply.
How much ATF should I have ready if I want to just do a drain and plug?

 

thanks, the check engine light isnt on, will there still be a code?

 

check engine light hardly ever turns on. you could have three dead cylinders, a burned out o2 sensor, and no engine oil, and it may still not kick on.

 

To do a drain /refill you will need about 9-12 quarts on hand..all depends how many times you do the drain/refill procedure..

It will only drain out about 3 quarts at a time by simply pulling the drain plug, what i did was drain out 3/refill 3....drive around about 30-50 miles or more...drain 3 again/refill 3....drive the same amount...repeated 4 times..

 

haha, ok ill check the codes then

 

Are Kyb Gr-2's and Springtech Springs a good combo?http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KYB-S...Q5fAccessories

 

Or should I get the Gr2's and the Ksport springs? Oh and where do you get the camber kits from? Thanks guys

 

no
and no.

any drop on kyb's is a bad idea, from what I hear. kyb's for our car are little better than OEM quality.
you want drop or do you want handling?


best combo: tokico struts, eibach springs. cost more, less drop but I have never heard any regrets. those low-drop springs cause bouncy rides.

 

and camber issues. the car should gain neg camber as the suspension compresses, after dropping 1.5" or more, the control arm is level at rest, so you start gaining positive camber as the suspension compresses, which negates any gains you got from a stiffer/lower suspension.

 

oh god here we go... i feel like such a nooooooob
VG
cuz my car is chugging like it has a missfire,
here's what i've done:
cleaned/inspected: TPS, MAF, Rad. Temp connection, Spark plugs+wires+distributor, injector connections.

I pulled all 6 spark plugs one at a time, they all make it run worse and i am getting a spark at each plug, i tested. I ohmed all the injectors (except for cyl.2 since you have to take off the IM to get at it, i am doing it later today just to check.) they are all reading 12-13 ohms resistance.

symptoms:
that noobish chugging, only at idle and up to 2500 rpm, hill climbing makes the noise louder.
I am not however getting any fluctuation in my rpm, it stays dad steady and performance feels pretty much the same.

could it be: o2 sensor, knock sensor, broken exhaust flex sectiion, or other?

i plan on swapping on another MAF just to see. anyone know what the resistance should be for the TPS or MAF ?

i am such a darsh noob.

 

what do you mean rad temp connection? the 2 plugs on the radiator are just for the fans. the CTS is on the back of th metal junction that the upper and c-shaped radiator hoses hook into.

but it's possible you have broken exhaust studs if it's moreso just a noise and not really a vibration or anything. look where your exhaust manifolds attach to the heads, there should be 6 studs/nuts per manifold. if any are missing, that could be a source of chugging noise.

 

well first 12~13ohms is a little high.

did you have this issue before you pulled all that stuff off?
check to make sure the coil wire isnt arcing to something, best checked at night.

likely hood of having codes im not sure but it doesnt hurt to check. did you check you fuel pressure? do you smel gas?

 

no smell of gas and i pulled all that junk off b/c of the chugging
and 12-13 ohms is within the 10-14 ohm range for injectors. and no there's no arcing happening, the spark plug wires are fine.

 

another stupid noobie question but where is the ecu located

 

between the black plastic covers near your right foot / passenger's left foot

 

thanks again

 

So I decided to do a tune up today. Got some ngk plugs and wires. Upon the removal of one of the old plugs I cracked the ceramic housing. I did my best to remove all the shards so they wouldnt get into the engine block, everything looked good and I continued to finish up the job.

When starting my max had a fit, and it sounded like something was rattling around in there. Very loud. It studdered around for about 20sec like it was misfiring or going to stall, and then the noise stopped and the engine started operating like normal.

Clearly there was a ceramic shard in the engine block but everything seems to be fine now I even started it up about 2 more times but I havent driven it around because I don't want it to freak out on me like on the freeway or something.

I don't know alot about engines, but it is it safe to assume that shard has left the engine block? Or what should I do about it?

 

update: so I took it for a test drive (I got antzy) and it actually runs fine I hit high RPMs and some bumps too just to check. I'm guessing the piece exited the exhaust port...

If anyone has any further advice though it would be appreciated.

 

Run the **** out it some more??

 

okay i just got finished going over the conrol arm replacement sticky:http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=508876 and i was ready to go ahead and use the method greeny posted on their but i was completely frozen once i read this statement
then thread seems to go off topic comparing different poly bushings and never really goes back to this discussion....... i do not have a propane torch (apparently im the only org member without one) and im pretty sure my control arms aren't going to slide off with some tough love and elbow grease..... but i am fairly confident i can do this withot breaking off drill bits but the last thing i wana do is "gouge one of the most structurally important parts on the entire car"

so is there any realistic danger to installing control arms(im doing the whole arm not just the bushings) using greeny's method or is there a large chance i will damage the "components"?.....the argument seems to be something about zinc plating.....

 

Do it like i outlined in the thread dude, just take your time and don't **** shiet up..pay attention!!

 

i broke off a drill bit when i did mine last week, it's not even a big deal, just let the drill do all the work and dont force it, once you start drilling you'll see how easy it is. and even if you were to snap off 6 bits in there you could still get it off....

 

I cant believe you guys broke off a drill bit in the control arm. I've been using the same freaking drill bit for 2 years on 20+ control arm bushings without a single break...have some patience guys, stop trying to bend a STEEL bit like it's a licorice stick..

 

FIRE!!!!


(works every time...)

 

more noob questions, but I've very grateful of all the helpful people on this forum

The "Bose" stereo will no power on and I see a cassette stuck in there. When I press POWER, the antenna does go up. I want to pull out the head unit and install an aftermarket one.

Is there a tutorial on how to do that? Also, the Bose unit is quite large and aftermarket HU are only half that size so what do I cover the bottom part with?

Thanks again